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Post by Bluefront on May 4, 2010 18:16:56 GMT -5
EDIT.....This thread has grown very big, and you may have trouble finding particular info. If you post questions at the end of the thread, I may be able to point you to the right page. Also......this thread contains a lot of generic info that can be applied to many of the 16" wheel scoots, not just the Xingyue. CB After spending almost six months trying to find a scoot that fits me better than my Roketa 50 without being too big/heavy, I found this Xingyue 150 on Craig's list. Had 550 miles on it, and not a scratch. I drove it around a few miles, and that sold me. The thing has about everything important...16" wheels, twin disks, two rear shocks, a tach, 2 gallon gas tank, etc. You can find this scoot sold under a bunch of brand names, but basically the same scoot. I've seen it with a 200cc engine, and with water cooling. I drove a Longbo brand that looked similar, but the ride was harsh, and I didn't like it. This scooter I like.... Before I bought the thing, I read up about it....notably this long informative post. And here's another thread on a similar SYM model. Some of the things talked about in the first post I found to be true, others I question. Here are a few things I've been working on..... My rear fender seemed loose (like everybody else).....had to take off the body panels to fix it. Not too hard. The little loop was broken... I fixed it using some roofing hardware from Home Depot, and some pop-rivets. While I had it apart I replaced the fuel filter and all the gas lines (3/16 hose). The OEM filter was on there correctly. You can wiggle the carb loose and twist it sideways to get to the lower fuel lines. My main disagreement with some of the stuff in that other link....the operation of the emission device (the thing with the hoses going to it at the left of that last photo). This is described on some of the literature concerning this scoot, as a "super-charger"....maybe a few other things. It's not an EGR valve....the exhaust gas is never recirculated. It appears to be another version of the pulse air injection system, found on some other China scoots. The big hose that goes to the intake track, is constantly sucking, and never blowing into the intake.....as has been described. It could be entirely removed....you'd only have to block the port where the pulse air is injected into the exhaust. (that's how I see it anyway). I've been doing the standard PDI stuff....haven't found any other problems so far, except for one thing. The paint on the luggage carrier is about 1/2 flaked off. The thing seems to be solid nylon. Anybody repainted it successfully? I'll add anything else I see while I continue this PDI.....it drives great. It feels like a cross between a cycle and a scooter. Which is what it is I guess.
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Post by Bluefront on May 5, 2010 17:25:04 GMT -5
More on this scooter.... My headlight was way too high...hit the trees. The adjuster is right under the headlight. You have to remove the entire bezel to get to it (stupid), then turn the screw, replace the bezel, and see if you got it right. Clockwise makes the beam go downward... This scoot made all sorts of rubbing sounds when you turned the bars from lock to lock.....the worst offender was the front brake line, which was rubbing the rear of the glove box. Fortunately you can bend the steel part of the line slightly so the line doesn't hit anything. Can't find the CDI unit? It's right behind the headlight, in the airflow from the front grill.It also would get water right onto the connector. I repositioned everything back there, re-routed wires, moved the CDI so the connector faces backwards, taped some wires, etc. Looks much better now....nothing's rubbing. Turning the bars is easier. Rode about another 60 miles today. Going good.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 5, 2010 19:11:33 GMT -5
While you're at it spray all electrical connections with silicon spray. Did ours and so far 4800kms trouble free. Also look inside your battery compartment and fix the drain hole, else the compartment will fill up with water when washing the scoot or in rain and drown your battery. happy scooting
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Post by Bluefront on May 6, 2010 5:48:24 GMT -5
^^^^Yeah I saw your tip in that other thread (link in the OP). A lot of helpful info there. I decided to make a new thread concerning this model, because that other thread got too long. This thread should have some different pictures/ideas/problems than that other thread. Like this issue....when I got this scoot the front turn signals were working (red arrow), but what I thought to be two running lights were not (green arrow). Turns out what looks to be a small bulb is a dummy. These aren't lights at all....no socket in the back, not even a hole. I suppose some models have a light here....and I'd like one also. Anybody have any insight as to this issue?
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Post by Bluefront on May 6, 2010 17:24:01 GMT -5
Changed my tail-lights today to LED bulbs (#1157 at Auto Zone, 2 for $16). Hint....don't try to replace the bulbs unless you have time to partially remove the whole body sections. When I went to install the new bulbs, the rubber holder came loose from the taillight housing, and fell loose behind the plastic, necessitating loosening the body. Pretty stupid. Another question.....my tail-lights only work with the engine running, and so does the little running light under the head-light, and the head-light itself.. On my other scoot, both the tail-light and the running lights come on with the ignition (engine doesn't have to be running). In my owners manual there is an explanation of the head-light switch on the right handlebar......my Xingyue has this switch, but it doesn't do anything at all. The switch is plugged in (goes into the main harness)....but doesn't turn anything on/off. Anybody have any clues about this......
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Post by russ69 on May 7, 2010 22:41:53 GMT -5
The headlight has to be on all the time (the bike is running) so the headlight switch is disabled, totally normal.
Thanx, Russ
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Post by Bluefront on May 8, 2010 5:28:38 GMT -5
Well I know the head-light is working all the time when the engine is running, but according to the owners manual that switch also controls the rest of the lights. Right now everything is working normal no matter the three-way switch position. You're saying this scoot has a completely non-functional lighting switch...and that's normal? Pretty weird..... Here's a photo of the light switch that doesn't do anything.....it's plugged in.
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Post by Bluefront on May 8, 2010 8:30:15 GMT -5
I got the luggage carrier painted. The OEM silver was 1/2 flaked off the nylon (?) frame. The rest of the paint was difficult to remove....hi-pressure car wash wouldn't do it. I ended up doing a lot of sanding. One layer of Duplicolor adhesion promoter, a layer of Duplicolor filler/primer (gray). Let dry 24 hours and applied three layers of Krylon for plastic satin black. Let dry two days.... I think it looks much better than the OEM silver. Will it last....who knows?
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Post by ce on May 8, 2010 9:02:03 GMT -5
That switch should be a bright beam flasher, it hits the brights when you're on low beam.
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Post by Bluefront on May 8, 2010 10:39:13 GMT -5
Nope....I've got a high beam flasher switch on the left handlebar (built into the normal hi/lo switch). I suppose that mystery switch may have been disabled at the factory somehow, maybe to conform to some regulation or other.
The owners manual goes into detail how it should work....just doesn't. Maybe the manual was just never updated. Looks like an expensive switch....surprised they left it on there if it has no use anymore.
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Post by bobpt on May 8, 2010 12:02:06 GMT -5
I have the same switch on the Pegasus. This switch, when pushed to the left, turns on my front running lights, dashboard lights, AND the tail light. I didn't realize that the tail light is not on (brakes would light it up) while I rode it in the evening time until a motorist pointed it out to me. Since you have fake running lights, does the switch turn on your dash lights and tail light?
Bob
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Post by Bluefront on May 8, 2010 17:03:31 GMT -5
Thanks for that info.....the way you described the switch operation matches the description in my manual. All my lights only come on with the engine running.....the exceptions are the brake light (works with the ignition on), and the signals (also work with the ignition on only). I'm convinced now my scoot's lights are working the way the factory wired them, not the way described in the manual. And that switch is not wired in this system. I'm going to change that....I want at least one front running light and the tail light to be on with the ignition, with the engine not running. That seems an obvious safety feature that should be present. I took the OEM trunk off my Roketa 50.....it mounts to the Xingyue luggage rack without drilling any holes. Looks pretty good back there....it's a keeper.
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Post by JR on May 8, 2010 17:42:47 GMT -5
Normal Chinese (Chinglish) manual, only thing they normally do is head you in the wrong direction and have very poor information. JRR
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 9, 2010 2:51:54 GMT -5
You're in the US? I think your regulations state that the lights should be on when-ever the bike is running, therefor the switch is wired to be permanently on . Our one has the switch too, but it switches the park lights and the headlights just as the manual states. Ours tho is a XY150T-6 model, which has a few small cosmetic differences and the switch of course.
One modification I could suggest IMHO is to take the big chrome heat-shield off. They crack after some miles and causes a real racket with vibration - scared me and caused me to think the engine is packing up. IMHO it looks better too with just the small vented shield.
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Post by Bluefront on May 9, 2010 5:04:35 GMT -5
I had the big chrome shield off when I got the scoot (had some surface rust from sitting around)....polished out perfect. Behind the shield are large rubber grommets. The attachment from the front has smaller washers. I'm going to find some chrome fender washers (larger diameter) to mount the shield.....hopefully that will prevent cracking.
I like the looks of it, although it does look nice with just the little outer shield on there.
I may change the front amber reflectors to round amber LED lights. Found some at Harbor Freight that are about the same size......this scoot has many possibilities for modding. ;D
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Post by benjaminm on May 9, 2010 8:00:34 GMT -5
I have the BMS Pathfinder 200T and I noticed the same thing about the light switch. If the bike is on the lights are on no matter what. Well its nice to know that mine is not the only messed up one.
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Post by scudder on May 9, 2010 11:29:57 GMT -5
How bright is the headlight? Does it light up the road?
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Post by emanyoda on May 9, 2010 12:58:08 GMT -5
I hate these head lights on this model!!!! The city I live in doesn't have street lights in the residential areas and the bike doesn't project much light.....so I installed the smallest fog lights I could find on ebay, they turn on with a foot switch
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Post by Bluefront on May 9, 2010 23:14:39 GMT -5
^^^Those fog lights look nice mounted there.....but those things draw over 100W. I'll bet the battery would go dead if they were used very much.
The other issue....the sideways mounting. The beam pattern on fog lights or driving lights, requires the light be mounted horizontal to get the proper light pattern. Just an observation.....
Oh...neat stitching on that seat cover. Is that a custom job?
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Post by emanyoda on May 9, 2010 23:37:43 GMT -5
The fog lights draw is a drain on the battery for sure after a straight 10 miles with continual use. I'm sure an upgraded stator would fix the problem, but the city I live in isn't very big, and my drives are relatively short, I usually only ride during the day. I only kick those babies on if it's an iffy dark road. As far as the beam goes, there not as cut and dry as most fog lights (as far as the pattern goes), they fill the light voids nicely. The seat was done by a local upholstery shop, they used a "carbon fiber" vinyl and accented it with red.
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Post by Bluefront on May 10, 2010 5:19:33 GMT -5
Absolutely fabulous seat cover.....I wonder would that guy do a seat shipped to him? I want one just like that. If you would be so kind, could you find a phone number, web address, etc.? How much did that job cost? Lucky dawg you.....
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Post by Bluefront on May 10, 2010 10:34:03 GMT -5
I changed the front valve stem this morning....both were cracking badly. What a pain. I've done two sets of stems on both my 50s.....this one was 10x harder. It's a CST tire. The sidewall is very hard.....I suspect everyone would have problems with this job, unless he has special equipment. I needed a big clamp from Harbor Freight, two motorcycle tire irons, and a bunch of DIY wedges. The only part of the job that was easy.....re-seating the tire on the rim. Went right back on using my small compressor. I doubt the job would be any easier if I had removed the wheel....and it may have been harder. Be fore-warned about doing this job at home......
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Post by pugzila on May 10, 2010 11:45:48 GMT -5
Can you tell me what size rubber is on this scooter? I know you said 16's, but what else. My Pegasus has 100/80-16 (F) and 110/80-16 (R) tires, and I can't find a matched set to replace them.
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Post by Bluefront on May 10, 2010 12:31:31 GMT -5
This scoot has 100x80x16 (f) and 120x80x16 (r)......I haven't looked into buying tires yet. Actually these CSTs feel pretty good on dry pavement, but I haven't driven in the rain so far.
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Post by leadsled on May 10, 2010 15:13:03 GMT -5
I have this same scooter for about 2 yrs now. I just noticed the front valve stem cracking over the weekend and was thinking about changing it myself. Then I see your post. Maybe I'll take it to a tire shop.
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Post by Bluefront on May 10, 2010 16:46:20 GMT -5
^^^Probably a good move. I'm sure there are some people here who will say it's an easy job.....wasn't for me. When I tried to do the rear wheel this morning, I couldn't get the tire bead to loosen from the rim. The rear tire is bigger/harder I guess. I went to Harbor Freight and bought two bigger "C" clamps. I'll try again tomorrow.
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Post by benjaminm on May 10, 2010 20:45:26 GMT -5
Bluefront as you have been responding in other threads of mine I am having an electrical issue. I think I am at the point I need to pull all the plastic off the scoot and go over it with a fine tooth comb. I was having issues taking off the back body panels the first time. I am not sure what I was missing when I was taking it apart. Could you point out some "hidden" screws/ clips I might have missed.
Thanks Ben
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Post by Bluefront on May 11, 2010 5:34:09 GMT -5
I think you could get to almost all the connections by simply removing the seat bucket and the battery cover. The exceptions would be the connectors for the tail light and license lite. But anyway....the rear plastic section comes off in one big piece (see photo #2 in this thread). I removed the tail light plastic, but it's not necessary. Remove the luggage rack. Remove the gas tank cover. Remove the seat bucket. Remove the battery cover. Remove eight (I think) screws around the front and side of the plastic section. All the screws are quite obvious...none hidden. The upper plastic section that you want to remove will still be tightly held to the lower section by three snap sections on each side, on the lower edge. See the arrows on this photo. Reach down inside with a medium flat screwdriver and gently pry open the channel (this is the lower black plastic). The upper section will then come loose (actually pops loose) when you pull backwards and upward at the same time. Loosen one side at a time. Then the entire upper plastic will come off....it's a tight fit. Don't break anything.....good luck.
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Post by gross392 on May 11, 2010 10:54:17 GMT -5
Bluefront: Is your front end lowered or is that stock? Looks nice and low. I am in the process of getting a Tank TR-16 or something like that and it is essentially this same scooter. Also, could anyone take a picture of the dash for me... The one i'm getting, i'm told is a electronic dash, but I wanna know if it has a tachometer and what other bells and whistles also come with it. A pic would be greatly appreciated!!!
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Post by Bluefront on May 11, 2010 13:50:24 GMT -5
The suspension is stock, as far as I can see (got it off Craig's List). The Longbo I drove did feel taller....my feet barely touched the ground. And the front end felt heavier, but the tires could have been low on air. These different brands could have some differences. The Pegs I've seen have a water temp gauge in place of the tach, but this air-cooled Xingyue has a tach, Got the rear valve stem replaced today.....bought two 6" "C" clamps and some soft jaw pads from Harbor Freight. They did the job, but it still was hard. On to some electrical mods.....
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