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Post by baddawg on Jul 20, 2008 18:11:42 GMT -5
Got a reply from Lance but no info to keep me moving forward with diagnosing the situation. Local dealer - not who I bought from - is more than happy to keep me at arms length. Will wait for replies here and again from Lance to see what happens. Apparently this is what happens when you get caught in between as the manufacturer changes their method of distribution and warranty coverage. Contrary to page 11 of my dUKE 250'S owners manual, there are no kill switches (or any wires) attached to my side stand (or center stand). Pardon this if it is pedantic: you must have the breaks on and the handlebar kill switch of with the key fully clockwise to start. Reading your post, I assume there is no reaction to hitting the starter. Do the lights come on ? |
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Post by baddawg on Jul 20, 2008 21:11:59 GMT -5
Having just adjusted my second Duke 250's mirrors (and mispelling "brakes" and "off" in the preceding post), I had a minor heart attack when the scoot would not do anything electrically after putting her back together. The first place I looked was at the main fuse dangling off of the battery, and interestingly enough, it was blown. Fortunately, there was a spare in the same plastic holder of the fuse, and replacing the fuse got the electrical system working again.
Now I will live in anxiety waiting for the other shoe to drop for the moment when whatever blew the fuse happens again (hopefully it was just me testing the electricals then forgetting to shut off the key while I put it back together, shorting something in the process).
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Post by scoot2job on Jul 20, 2008 22:43:35 GMT -5
I have another way to solve the Mirror issue. Over the weekend we discovered how to handle the issue with the Mirrors and how you can solve the issue without spending any extra cash. Here's what you will need..
8 mm socket
10 mm socket
Ratchet
6mm hex key
Phillips Screwdriver (power or hand)
Dremel tool (cutter blade & sander wheel)
Take apart the assembly around the mirrors. We took the windshield off and took apart the assembly to reveal the Mirror Mounts. What we figured out is that the right hand side mirror was turned towards you more and should be rotated back. The plastic opening around the brake reservoir is not wide/deep enough to allow you to roll the mirrors farther up. So we used the Dremel to cut more of the plastic away. Doing this allowed us to adjust the Mirror mounts (8 metric socket) and move them back so the mirrors are rolled up some. Once we did this you were able to see behind you. We did this to both mirrors to make sure that both are working the way you wanted without spending extra money to replace the mirrors.
If anyone needs further explaination on this or even pictures let me know and I’ll do what I can to explain further. The first scooter we did we didn’t take pictures.. But I have 2 other scooters to do next..
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Post by ottojorgen on Jul 21, 2008 7:48:24 GMT -5
baddawg - I've tried every possible configuration of switches on and/or off with no success. The lights do come on so I'm expecting the problem to be some minor electrical issue I will need to trace to discover. I'll be looking through some of the posts here on starting difficulties to see how others have handled their initial situations.
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Post by jggally on Jul 21, 2008 12:46:08 GMT -5
So we used the Dremel to cut more of the plastic away. Good tip. I adjusted my mirrors as best I could on my second Duke this weekend, but even after doing so, the right mirror is still not as high as I would like because of the plastic butting up against the brake reservoir. Now I wish I had Dremmeled it befor I put it back together ... |
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Post by jggally on Jul 21, 2008 12:49:12 GMT -5
Here is a Duke 250 engine repair manual (CF Moto 172MM) www.trirunner.citymax.com/f/CFMOTO.pdf . This is a Chinese clone of the Honda CN250 engine manual. It is the most informative I have found free on the web, albeit the translation to English is humorous in places. |
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Post by tschmed on Jul 29, 2008 10:38:50 GMT -5
I adjusted my mirrors on my Lance Duke Touring. It is fairly easy if you have a good assortment of tools and A LOT of patience.
You have to be VERY careful not to create electrical issues when putting the instrument cluster back in place. I am going back in and redressing all of the cables, adding electrical tape & duct take & zip tying the harness back in place. The harness connections seem to be marginal at best.
Suggestions:
1. Terminate the end of the pink wire (Cell antenna?), Zip tie or duct tape it to another portion of the harness.
2. Test the electrical system BEFORE you put the cluster back in. After the 3rd try, I actually left the engine idling as I put it back together to make sure I did not create any shorts.
3. Buy spare 15A fuses.
4. Check all of the connections to make sure they are fully seated before reassembling the cluster.
5. Do not over-tighten any screws that are self tapping into plastic.
I am going to tackle the overheating issue next and see if I can get the air bubble out of the radiator line as suggested in one of the previous posts.
Has anyone done the mod to cause the cooling fan to run continuously themselves? I would like to know where you short out the thermal sensor switch. I do not see it on the schematic.
Thanks,
Tom
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Post by megatronn on Jul 29, 2008 23:43:13 GMT -5
any one know how to change gear oil on the 250. were is the drain hole??
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Post by "Big Guy" on Jul 30, 2008 0:09:47 GMT -5
baddawg - I've tried every possible configuration of switches on and/or off with no success. The lights do come on so I'm expecting the problem to be some minor electrical issue I will need to trace to discover. I'll be looking through some of the posts here on starting difficulties to see how others have handled their initial situations. Okay, the most common problem with this is people forget to attach a wire to the battery. Your battery should have three wires going to it. Most likely red, green and one thinner red wire; the thin red wire goes to the positive pole of the battery. Do you have all three wires hooked up? The thinner wire is what allows power to go to the starting circuit. On some scoots, the thinner wire is green, which in this case, it would go to the negative pole. -Rich |
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Post by livewire on Jul 30, 2008 12:14:17 GMT -5
wow, I watched your vid on youtube. Your mirrors and gage package look exactly like what is on my Tank 250DE. My mirrors never really held their adjustment. I finally put some silicone on between the mirror and the housing to keep them in place.
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Post by rherald2 on Jul 30, 2008 22:46:05 GMT -5
any one know how to change gear oil on the 250. were is the drain hole?? remove your chrome belt cover and you will see your drain plug. you can go to oreganvintage.com they show using a tank scooter but same set up |
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Post by crducky on Aug 1, 2008 16:41:20 GMT -5
My Duke 250 came with the left mirror after installation easy to use but the right mirror would not adjust forward enough to be usable because the attached front brake reservoir hit the dashboard front of the hole in the dashboard. I removed that dashboard portion and enlarged the hole forward with a hack saw and small sander and the mirror now works fine. The rear brake assembly slowly leaks fluid and the rear detachable trunk was missing upon delivery. The supplier has said they will send both of those items but I am still waiting. Other than that it gets 65 mpg but am still waiting for the MSO(manufacture location) so California DMV will allow me to register it. Have a dawggy day!
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3pg
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 2
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Post by 3pg on Aug 1, 2008 20:44:39 GMT -5
:)Any Dawgs out there riding or even checking out the Lance Duke 250. I really like mine. Still breaking in but only problem is with mirrors which needed readjusting and tweaking. Runs great, good zip, decent handling, smooth ride and no problems from arrival except the mirrors. Did our homework-find Zhen to be a pretty reliable manufacturer. What do the Dawgs think? Tom and Kathy |
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Post by crducky on Aug 4, 2008 18:12:31 GMT -5
The mirrors aren't worth a pot to ---- in so I ordered Heeters 10" 8mm mirrors for $16.95 each.
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Post by ottojorgen on Aug 5, 2008 7:29:23 GMT -5
For the life of me I can't find the fuel adjustment screw on my Duke. Anybody able to provide a pic so I can better pinpoint the location, please? Agree absolutely on the mirror issue as well.
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Post by Clueless on Aug 5, 2008 9:41:24 GMT -5
The mirrors aren't worth a pot to ---- in so I ordered Heeters 10" 8mm mirrors for $16.95 each. From this website? www.heeters.com/mirrors.shtml Round Mirror For Motorcycles, ATV's, Mopeds and Scooters Description: Chrome metal 4" round mirror body Chrome steel 10" stem with 8mm threads Fits right or left side Stem is mounted off center on the mirror so the mirror may be rotated to position it farther out if desired Price (#K-2300-060)-----$16.95 each Let us know how they look. I'm looking for mirrors myself, as with alot of Duke owners I'm sure. |
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Post by ladydi on Aug 7, 2008 18:57:17 GMT -5
Just tried the link and it's a dead one/ page says it was cancelled!  |
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Post by WarrenS on Aug 7, 2008 20:26:45 GMT -5
I tried it and it worked.
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Post by crducky on Aug 8, 2008 10:47:52 GMT -5
I have 500 miles on my Lance 250 and it has been fairly ok until now. Recently, it has started to vibrate upon initial acceleration and ends shortly at about 5 mph. Any of you fellow Dawgs have any idea of the cause and what I should look at? Thanks eh!
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Post by jball606 on Aug 8, 2008 11:39:50 GMT -5
hey crducky. My Lance would vibrate when I accelerated, and then was fine around 5 mph. It would also have a tendency to die at a stop light. The problem was the intake manifold and CDI. Lance had to send my dealer new parts and that fixed all the problems.
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Post by crducky on Aug 8, 2008 13:18:01 GMT -5
You are lucky, jball606, I purchased mine form motorxtremes.com, they owe me the rear trunk, rear brake unit and MCO papers. They haven't sent them, don't return either my calls or emails. Do you have any info. how to get in contact with Lance or a reputable dealer other than just an e-mail address?
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Post by crducky on Aug 10, 2008 9:21:49 GMT -5
hey crducky. My Lance would vibrate when I accelerated, and then was fine around 5 mph. It would also have a tendency to die at a stop light. The problem was the intake manifold and CDI. Lance had to send my dealer new parts and that fixed all the problems. |
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Post by crducky on Aug 10, 2008 9:24:45 GMT -5
jball606, Do you know what parts Lance sent to your dealer so I can give that info to mine? If not, what is the email for your dealer so I can ask them? Thanx!
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Post by crducky on Aug 12, 2008 15:25:42 GMT -5
The mirrors aren't worth a pot to ---- in so I ordered Heeters 10" 8mm mirrors for $16.95 each. From this website? www.heeters.com/mirrors.shtml Round Mirror For Motorcycles, ATV's, Mopeds and Scooters Description: Chrome metal 4" round mirror body Chrome steel 10" stem with 8mm threads Fits right or left side Stem is mounted off center on the mirror so the mirror may be rotated to position it farther out if desired Price (#K-2300-060)-----$16.95 each Let us know how they look. I'm looking for mirrors myself, as with alot of Duke owners I'm sure. |
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Post by crducky on Aug 12, 2008 15:28:19 GMT -5
Yes, that is the mirror. As far as I am concerned they look great but you do give up the turn signal on the mirror.
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johnc
Big Dawg
92 Honda Helix
Posts: 20
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Post by johnc on Aug 19, 2008 12:02:53 GMT -5
crducky - thanks for the tip about the mirrors from Heeters. I have gone from a vibrating view of either my elbows or shoulders to a view of the traffic behind me.
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Post by joethursday on Oct 8, 2010 14:43:00 GMT -5
( 2008 - Duke Touring 250 - 107 miles) Problems: 1 - Stator wont charge battery 2 - Vibrates heavily up until about 5 mph 3 - Low MPG, seems to be running rich, exhaust smells a bit like gas Hello all, my name is Joe, and i just purchased a used 2008 Duke Touring 250. with only 31 miles on it. Its interesting to see all these similar problems with the scooter. Maybe would have looked at some other brands, if i read these posts first...lol.... I am a licensed electrician, and have built everything from hospitals to high schools. HOWEVER, i've never been much of an auto-mechanic, never spent the time to learn. Anyway, i got he scooter cheap because the woman who bought it could not get the bike to stay charged. thats why there was only 30 miles on it. Figured it was a bad battery, connections, or wasn't ridden enough. after checking all the connections and replacing the battery, still no luck. I drive it for a while, but it always ends up dying, or not having enough juice to start back up. Very embarrassing when i was pushing it up to the window for inspection at the DMV...lol Has anyone else had this problem, or know how to fix it? Know where to get a new alternator? I need the owners manual, or a wiring diagram so i can see how this is supposed to be put together. Maybe that will give me some more clues... Second, The bike vibrates hard until about 5 MPH, does anyone know what that is caused by? Third, How can i adjust the carb to run less rich, and improve gas mileage? I appreciate any help or information anyone can send my way. Thanks.... Joe Thursday
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Post by als01seville on Oct 8, 2010 15:09:13 GMT -5
HI, the vibration can be caused by many things, but it may be the Clutch that is slipping on the Bell Houseing until your rpms climb and spin it fast enough to throw out the clutch pads against the bell houseing. When adjusting your carb want to adjust it after the engine is nice and hot. The reason is when you first start it after some hours the ENRICHER(CHOKE) is by DEFAULT ON to help with cold starts. After the engine starts it then sends juice to the ENRICHER(CHOKE) and as it heats up the Needle and Plunger on the CHoke EXTEND to block off the extra fuel for Cold starts. So that is why you want to wait until the engine is nice and warm about 5 minutes or so to give the Enricher to shut off the extra fuel. Then if its still running rich, it is either the Carb or the Enricher is NOT working and did not SHUT off the extra fuel coming in. But it the Enricher is working and it still is running rich then you can Adjust the Air/Fuel Mixture by Turning it CLOCKWISE to LEAN it out. Here is how to go about adjusting your Ai/Fuel Mixture: Alleyoop Left Side of Carb:  Right Side of Carb:  ADJUSTING YOUR AIR/FUEL MIXTURE: YOU WANT THE HIGHEST RPMS OUT OF THE AIR/FUEL MIXTURE SCREW: This is for you common CV Carbs that have the Air Fuel Mixture Screw Near the INTAKE goint to the Engine. Other Carbs may have the Air/Fuel Mixture On the Air Filter Side with those JUST CHANGE the WORDS "CLOCKWISE to COUNTER CLOCKWISE" and "COUNTER CLOCKWISE to CLOCKWISE" other than that same thing applies. Before you start it Turn the Air/Fuel Mixture Screw CLOCKWISE UNTIL IT STOPS do not tighten it just until it stops BUT COUNT how many TURNS IT TOOK TO CLOSE it. Then Turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE the same amount of turns back to where it was. Then Start your scoot and Get The Engine Nice and Hot about 10 minutes so that the Enricher is no longer Allowing Extra Fuel to come in. Then do the following to fine tune the Air/Fuel Ratio: RICHEN THE AIR/FUEL MIXTURE: 1. Turn the Air/Fuel Mixture COUNTER CLOCKWISE 1/4 turn and wait 10-15 seconds to let the engine catch up with the new setting. a. If the RPMS go up REPEAT 1 UNTIL the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE. b. Then TURN the Air/Fuel Mixture 1/8 CLOCKWISE and that should be your highest Air/Fuel Mixture setting. """If on the FIRST 1/4 TURN from the STARTING Position IN #1 ABOVE the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE , turn the Air/Fuel Mixture Back the 1/4 turn to the Starting position and wait 10-15 seconds until the engine catchs up and go to #2""" LEAN THE AIR/FUEL MIXTURE: 2. Turn the Air/Fuel Mixture CLOCKWISE 1/4 turn and wait 10-15 seconds to let the engine catch up with the new setting. a. If the RPMS go up REPEAT 2 UNTIL the RPMS GO DOWN OR NO CHANGE. b. Then TURN the Air/Fuel Mixture 1/8 COUNTER CLOCKWISE and that should be your highest Air/Fuel Mixture setting. IDLE SPEED SCREW: 3. If after adjusting your Air/Fuel Mixture your idle is to fast Turn the IDLE SPEED SCREW COUNTER CLOCKWISE until your Rear Wheel JUST Barely wants to Turn or around 1500-1800 rpms. 4. If 1 or 2 above DOES NOT produce any RPM Change you most likely have a CLOGGED PILOT JET "OR" you did not get the ENGINE HOT ENOUGH and you were working against the ENRICHER which has not yet closed off the extra fuel. If the engine was nice and hot running for about 10 minutes and the Enricher was off then its time to take off the Carb and Clean out the Jets and all the Carb Passages. If adjusted correctly you should be able to give the Throttle a QUICK half turn and the Engine should REV UP with no bogging hesitation and get a nice VROOOOOOOOOOOM. The Rpms should come down nice and settle at the Rpms you set your Idle to. |
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Post by yoster on Oct 8, 2010 15:11:47 GMT -5
Hello and welcome: 1) Do you have the CFmoto244cc engine or the Linhai 257cc? If the CFMoto, it has a weak RegulatorRectifier from the factory, almost every time. Check out the post on scooterdoc.com for more info. In general though, we've found that the stock RR BARELY keeps the scooter charged when the fan is OFF. When it's on however, you're going to have a drain. We've contacted a non-scooter supplier who custom makes Regulator Rectifiers and his replacements (they run about $100) have completely resolved our issues. If you have the Linhai, then there's something else going on. That version has a more robust charging system. If CFMoto, others will recommend changing lights to LED etc, but I guarantee you that until you resolve the stock Regulator Rectifier and replace with an actual Honda version or another from our other vendor (link below), you're going to continue to struggle with this issue. www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/VRRPM.html - you want the very bottom one on this page. 2) Pretty normal on these Chinese scooters with such low miles. When mine was new, EVERYTHING vibrated. It smoothed out at about 600 miles, and was even better by 1000. Do NOT start messing with the carb yet, trust me. Just run it more for now. You're still in the break-in phase. 3) The scooter is going to have some smells for the first few hundred miles. Drive it more and see if this works itself out. It's too new to start jumping into things. |
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Post by chaz12 on Oct 8, 2010 20:28:52 GMT -5
Lance 250 is about the same as a Tank, Roketa, ect.. They usually run decent. Roketa comes out of the same factory as Tank, Duke, Sunl, Roadrunner, ect.. They companies that buy big shipments and sale over the web, just slap a different sticker on the product reflecting their company logo. Some do have issues and some will not. Some get damaged in shipping. They make a fairly decent ride for the buck, but one generally can't find a repair shop to work on them, thus most do their own work. Now Tank 250 Delux Touring scooter had a slight difference than Roketa Bali 250: Some parts and Tank had a leather seat verses a vinyl seat. Tank scooters quit selling for the most part and Roketa is still selling. Tank scooters had a shop that would sale Tank products in Columbia MO. but soon after they had continuous troubles the shop stopped selling Tank. Tank did not want to give replacement parts to their dealers and thus no one wanted to represent them. But you can't beat the gas milage. My scooter was under warranty for one year and I am sure the dealer would have replaced any part broken. My trouble was not with parts, but had to let sit for a month in my foyer with no gas in it. Could not start it in mid winter. But nothing appeared damaged upon recieving it( I checked) and signed the invoice. Now other dealers after letting it sit for a month( still new) well the dealers would have said," Sure, you probably broke a part and want another for free". And some parts are not covered under warranty like tires, grips, ect.. So you know what you warranty is. Tank has a warranty 3 years or 36,000 miles on the drive train. But alot of people had trouble with them on other issues. I saw whom had the biggest supply in scooters before choosing to buy. Roketa has about 60 scooters, one electric car, 9 or 10 trikes, 10 motorcycles, 9 dirt bikes, alot of go carts and utv and atvs. They carry one of the biggers name and sale parts. It was important to me, because I like knowing, if need a part, that I can get it. But also Duke is interchangable with Duke.
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