There were 6x #10 bolts of varying length to remove (so keep them layed out in order somewhere out of reach). This allows the gearbox cover to be prised away gently with a flat blade screwdriver. If you're careful, the gasket can be re-used!
I re-assembled the new gears in the reverse order of the old gear removal, the new front 16t gearset simply slid back into the center of the bearing and the rear 38t sprocket slid back onto the rear axle shaft using the same noted teeth orientation of the original gear.
After inspecting and cleaning the gearbox housing cover, I alligned it's bearings and teeth with their mating surfaces in the gearbox, then pressed it closed carefully to avoid pinching or tearing the original gasket.
In order, I reassembled and tightened the case cover bolts, only leaving out the rear oil refilling bolt.
The next step was to refill the gearbox with oil. I tightened up the #10 drain bolt on the underside of the gearbox and then connected a small clear hose to the nipple of the oil container. The hose was inserted into the refilling hole located midway towards the back of the gearbox housing. I simply kept squeezing in oil until it started to flow out of the refilling hole. (approx 110cc of oil was required)
The recommeded oil I used was Castrol SAF-XA 80W-140. (It's a full synthetic)
I removed the clutch housing bell to expose and clean the clutch pads of any dust and debris with my air compressor, then slid it back onto the gearbox shaft. Re-alligned the clutch cover and completed assembly of the belt and variator (which also needed cleaning).
The final part of the re-assembly was tightening up the #17 center nuts on both the variator & clutch bell housing with my rattle gun, then sealing the variator/gearbox with it's cover.
Prior to this upgrade, I could only sustain 100kph for a limited period of time. The engine was revving at 8800 RPM's and it didn't feel like I had enough headroom to work with if I needed to get out of a mess.
I was outstanded by the results of this simple upgrade, half expecting to lose the bottom end power I gained from the 170cc upgrade, I can honestly say there is no notible loss on take-off and a huge increase in top speed.
I can now comfortably sit on 100kph at 7700 RPM's and there's plenty of power to spare. On initial runs (taking it gently) I hit 117kph and then backed off - even then it felt like it had more to offer!
The plug on the end of my new dash consisted of 9 wires and although it could plug into the same base connector that my existing dash originated from, only the left indicator would light, everything else was dead including the ignition button.
A different approach was needed...
There's only 6 wires connecting my original dash.
3 (in the center) for the fuel guage and another 3 for the tachometer. The remaining plugs are all light bulbs.
These Bulbs consist of:
Lt Blue + Green = Right Indicator Orange + Green = Left Indicator Dk Blue + Green = High Beam Brown + Green = Backlight
Luckily most of the colours matched up on the new Digital Dash, so here's how I connected it all:
1st I removed the headlight front panel on my scooter to expose the full wire harness.
Then I cut the new digital dash's plug completely off and stripped each of the 9 wires.
1. RED WIRE: The new dash has a digital clock which requires power even when the ignition key is removed, So I connected the red wire to a permanent power source, namely the red wire on the connector block that goes to the alarm.
2. GREEN WIRE: I established that this was a ground wire. When removing the connectors to the original dash, the set of 3 wires for the tachometer included a green wire which led to a socket plug. I simply connected to this.
3. BLACK/YELLOW WIRE: A signal wire for the tachometer. Part of the original 3 wire set led me to the same colour wire in a socket plug.
4. BLACK WIRE: Another signal wire for the tachometer. Part of the original 3 wire set led me to the same colour wire in a socket plug.
5. YELLOW/GREEN WIRE: This wire matched up to the brake lever's tail light wire and lights up a red light on the new dash when the tail light comes on. I simply spliced into the existing brake signal wire of the same colour.
6. YELLOW WIRE: This wire matched up to the same colour being used by the fuel guage. When I removed the original dash, there were 3 wires from the center that led to a plug. I spliced into the yellow wire on that plug and found that only this wire was required for the Digital Dash's fuel guage to work correctly.
When the dash is turned off, the digital clock can still be seen - all other LCD's are off including the Blue NEON illumination.
When the dash is on, the NEON blue backlight is lit. (always remains on, even in daylight)
The unit goes through a self test and counts each digit to 9, then it's ready for use.
In the photo below (taken during self-test) it shows every possible function, here's what they're supposed to do:
1. Mobile phone is ringing (1st icon at top) - this blinks on & off when a mobile phone is within range; 1-2 meters. (no luck during initial test) 2. Lock (2nd icon at top) - unused 3. Hazard (3rd icon at top) - this blinks on & off at speeds above 85kph, I'm guessing to remind you to watch your speed. 4. Odometer(2nd row) - displays the distance travelled in the pre-selected format (kms or miles) 5. KMS/MILES (2nd row) - displays either kms or miles for both the odometer & speedometer 6. Speedometer (3rd Row) - maximum 199 kms or miles 7. Clock (4th Row) - 12hr time format 8. Oil warning lamp (5th Row) - unused
9. Left & Right Indicators (also hazard lights) - Green 10. High Beam - Blue 11. Brake Light - Red
12. Left is to select This allows you to change settings in this cycle: kms -> miles -> hours -> minutes 13. Right is to toggle & choose
14. Tachometer (Top Row) - displays RPM's in 500 rpm increments to 12,000 15. Fuel Guage (Bottom Left) - gains a bar for each level from Emply to Full 16. Voltage (Center) - displays a numerical voltage from 9-18V 17. Temperature (Center Right) - unused 18. Voltage Bar Graph (Bottom Right) - gains a bar for each level from 9-18V
Footnote:The next 2 mods that I'm keen to try is a lightened flywheel & that race mapped CDI I keep talking about ;D
This is a really great thread and thanks so much Sin for the photos and write ups.
For some strange reason I have not been reading this thread for a while. I feel like a dummy. I have blathered on and on in another performance thread, and could have easily referred to this one for information.
I was probably on the razor's edge of being taken out to the shed and severely tortoised. I'll go pull out a few old man nose and ear hairs to make amends.
Post by Custom ScooterZ on Apr 19, 2008 11:22:52 GMT -5
Hi Guys, I have to admit this was a great explanation to this upgrade. And my complements on your scooter. I never heard of this body style scooter before, and I will be adding it to my website in the OUR PARTS FIT (subpage) which can be found on the ABOUT US (page). I don't sell scooters, just a few racing engine parts, but very strong on Chrome Accessories. I have every single chrome body part for this scooter, right down to the chrome swing arm. If you are interested, please visit my website at www.scooterchromeparts.com
Again my congratulations on such a great presentation on this upgrade.
Our Scooter Chrome Body Parts fit some 50cc, definitely 125cc, 150cc, 200cc, 250cc. Avanti, Baccio, Bermine, Baron, Diamo, Lance, Longbo, Primo, Roadrunneri, Roketa, Vento, Verucci, Tank, SunL, Yamati, X-Treme. www.scooterchromeparts.com melazza.googlepages.com
کíŋ, I have a Strada Eurojet RX150i, that has the same running specs as you have described. My Strada came from the factory with many up grades. 26mm carb high performance head, up graded cam and a unique exhaust that the jury is still out on. It is known as the GY6b engine. I have always felt that it was geared too low and that I was running out of the torque cure. 9000RPM- 63MPH (102KPH) Your post on this mod has encouraged me to make the gear swap. Where did you get your gears? This is a site that I have found. www.ginospr.com/page4.html
Last Edit: Apr 19, 2008 12:46:30 GMT -5 by 12string
I never heard of this body style scooter before, and I will be adding it to my website in the OUR PARTS FIT (subpage) which can be found on the ABOUT US (page). I don't sell scooters, just a few racing engine parts, but very strong on Chrome Accessories. I have every single chrome body part for this scooter, right down to the chrome swing arm. If you are interested, please visit my website at...
I purchased my gears here in Australia - they're also from NCY in Taiwan, same thing - my supplier won't ship out of the country but do try for a local supplier , they were easy to fit (once pressed) and it turned out to be one of the most bang for buck upgrades I've done so far
Post by YellowScooter on Apr 21, 2008 7:43:57 GMT -5
Damn near 73MPH. Now we know how to make those ebay ads come true. My hats off to ya man, Between you and GY6Rocket, Y'all have pretty much set me up with the how-to guide on my pet project: <--Take that bike, a Tank EuroSporty-150, and pull off a similar buildup to the scooter-king you got goin on. Do a chassis mod I think it was GY6Rocket done with running a bolt through that flexzone on the frame, making it stationary Slap on a pair of top-end Pirellis, and go-baby-go! I might use what I got instead of another scoot, I hadn't made up my mind yet. Probably won't till the time comes to order the kits... I got 1 question. I read you used 10g rollerweights in your bike. with the Eurosporty being a lighterweight setup, do you think a set of 12g rollers would yield the same results?
Nice going, I love your modifications. Especially the part where they have slip on gears in the gearbox. The large final drive gear seems to be a press on affair on all the scooters I looked at. That would be great to be able to only have to slip the gear off and on to change the gear ratio on the final drive. The digital tach mod was great. Thanks a lot.
2007 Roketa Fiji 150 2007 Roketa MC54-250B 1992 Harley Sportster 1200 ----------------------------------- "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming -- WOW--What a ride!!!"
Post by YellowScooter on Apr 21, 2008 16:49:31 GMT -5
One other question, how has the reliability been since doing all this stuff? You always hear a modified scooter is like back surgery, it's never really right ever again... I was wondering If you had a lotta repeat issues with stuff since cracking it all open?
Don't let your children chew on your scooter. China still uses lead-based paint!
wereed: HOw can I start a thread?
Jun 1, 2013 10:55:49 GMT -5
wereed: or respond to a thread I started three years ago...
Jun 1, 2013 10:56:07 GMT -5
marklorenzi: I just bought one of the Fleetwoods. They look like a clone of the Honda XRM's they sell overseas. It is in transit now and I should get it this week. I will try to post my experience here. Call me the guinea pig hahaha.
Jun 2, 2013 20:29:11 GMT -5
flyangler: wereed, this forum is read only the new forum is on the banner above. Dan
Jun 5, 2013 7:35:29 GMT -5
silkyg1973: can someone please tell me how to post
Jun 10, 2013 12:08:46 GMT -5