1st change the final drive to a smaller gear for more top end. Then play around with the weights and clutch springs.
I've already changed from 6x 13g rollers down to 6x10g but wouldn't mind trying a Variator with an extended ramp.
Re: that pricey Inferno Ignition Coil, probably had more to do with the cost my mate with the dirt bike shop paid to import it rather than what it was worth - Although PBU do boast that it "can" add up to another 2hp over stock
Excellent post, really enjoyed your detailed write up with pictures. Nice job on the scoot sure looks like you know what your doing and the amazing thing is you were able to do it all upside down ..... just kidding of course.
I actually have the same scoot more or less, same body except the front cowl, which has vent openings for the radiator of the water cooled 257cc Linhai engine. I liked the fact that it is a 150 frame with a little more humpf of the 250 engine.
One awesome scooter, great project, great learning experience. Even with the increase in acceleration as well as the additional 8 mph in top end, do you think it was worth the time and expense. Just wondering because I'm considering doing some performance mods to mine.
Post by YellowScooter on Jan 7, 2008 21:10:30 GMT -5
Most impressive. I was told the 4V mod was something 10x more involved than I wanted to get into. To the contrary, it looks exactly like what I had pictured to begin with. It's got me thinking again. Thanks!
Wow great tutorial, write up and detailed pictures!
I was a bit concerned while reading the thread that the piston head shape may make contact with the 4 valve setup since the piston is clearly for a 2 valve head. I was releaved when you stated turnover was ok. The extra head height must be for valve/piston clearance?
Ill bet that scoot does 70 when you get some free flow exhaust, that stock exhaust is a huge bottleneck in your otherwise stellar setup! Great work m8!
Bike Specs: Heavily modified '06 Strada rx150te chassis - MotoX handlebar conversion - '08 GY6 HP Engine Swap w/ the works.
Returning the Flywheel/Cam Sprocket to Top Dead Center, grabbing a set of Metric Feeler Gauges and 9mm spanner, it was time to check and set all 4 of my shiny new Valves to .004
one question to this:
As I also use the 4V head to my Dealim scooter I did made a look to my repair manual. There I was told to fix the valves as follows:
Inlet Valve: 0.016 - 0.040 mm Outlet Valve: 0.036 - 0.060 mm
Are you sure with the 0.004 mm? Isn`t there a digit fault? And what about the 0.060 mm at outlet valve?
If you wish I can send you the repair manual by email, just give me a notice. But beware, it`s German ;)
Beside this, you did made a awesome writeup, I was looking, reading and linking for nearly 2 hours, you saved my evening
I wonder if my motor has also the 3rd plug into the sump to fix the BREATHER CATCH TANK. My plan was to cut the oem tube going to the airbox and bend it down to the street by putting a tiny K&N onto the tip to avoid dust comming into the engine.
The Yiben is also available here, looks great. But the OEM 125cc engine is very weak so I decided to buy the Dealim
If you have any problems with my english....sorry! Greets to Australia from Austria :)
There's a breakdown of what I've spent here & no, I didn't need to machine the engine base to fit the 61mm big bore kit but I do recommend that the collar of the bore be cleaned up a little with a dremel to ensure an easy fit.
Looks great کíŋ, let us know your top speed run when you get your gearing done, I am interested how it will perform with your mods.
OK, here goes ;D
Original Gears: 13t front, 40t rear Top Speed: 100kph Gear Ratio: 3.0
New Gears: 16t front, 38t rear Top Speed: 117kph Gear Ratio: 2.3
The new gearset requires pressing of the small sprocket onto the original front gear shaft. To avoid any down time from having to remove my original gear, I purchased a stock front gear from my supplier and had the new 16t gear pressed at a machine shop.
The clutch housing had to be removed to access the gearbox. I used a 2.5hp air compressor with rattle gun to remove the #17 center nut.
Tip: Many rattle guns have a dial at the base that increases the torque, these nuts can be quite hard to remove so apply more torque if needed.
wereed: HOw can I start a thread?
Jun 1, 2013 10:55:49 GMT -5
wereed: or respond to a thread I started three years ago...
Jun 1, 2013 10:56:07 GMT -5
marklorenzi: I just bought one of the Fleetwoods. They look like a clone of the Honda XRM's they sell overseas. It is in transit now and I should get it this week. I will try to post my experience here. Call me the guinea pig hahaha.
Jun 2, 2013 20:29:11 GMT -5
flyangler: wereed, this forum is read only the new forum is on the banner above. Dan
Jun 5, 2013 7:35:29 GMT -5
silkyg1973: can someone please tell me how to post
Jun 10, 2013 12:08:46 GMT -5