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Post by mainepeace on May 14, 2011 18:25:06 GMT -5
This is where I have the serial plug located. It's fairly easy to get to. I did notice that there is a "perforated" cutout in the seat bucket area that's about 1"x1.5". I might use that, put a plexiglass or plstic plate over it and have the serial socket come through. That way it's protected. I just need to make sure that it doesn't interfere with or scratch my helmet since I use the bucket to store it when I'm out. Greg Attachments:
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Post by timelancer on May 14, 2011 18:29:27 GMT -5
So I gotta know, how's the E.F.I. adapting to it's new home? Still bogging, and if not about how many miles before it got totally dialed in, just curious to know how long I would have to "break in" one of these systems.
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Post by mainepeace on May 14, 2011 18:46:08 GMT -5
All those posts were moved to the front. It's working fine now. No bogging.
Turns out that the bogging at the stop sign was due to gas and other cleaning fluid gunk or even rainwater that seeped through the CVT case at the top and dripped on the clutch causing the slip. It hasn't happened at all since I cleaned out the case and made sure all the surfaces were dried.
I got the latest data file from Ecotrons two days ago. It worked perfectly and it really takes only a few minutes for the ECU to adjust. There is still one slight issue with starting in that it took (3) one second bursts of the starter to get started. I guess that's more due to pressurization of the fuel system. As soon as it started, the part throttle dying did not occur and I could take off.
I can tweak the settings more if I want to. Now I'm trying to get the data analyzer program to work. Once I get it working (got a new version this afternoon) then I can see how stoich I am. If it's good, I probably won't spend much time tuning. It's already running much better than the carb and there aren't any places that the engine bogs that isn't drivetrain related like, going up 30 degree inclines.
I'd say the system is fully installed.
After I finish this tank of gas I'm on to modding it like larger exhaust, intake port matching, velocity stack and longer intake runner, maybe turbo.
Who knows, if I do well in the rental business I just might buy a turbo next month.
Greg
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Post by timelancer on May 14, 2011 19:32:30 GMT -5
A turbo has been my goal ever since I got into tuning scoots. I however was not willing to blow a hole in my piston from running lean on WOT with a carb, turns out they usually run really rich off the line and really lean once up to speed. I'm thinking with this E.F.I. kit I could alleviate those problems and finally make my scoot into a real screamer. It seems that the "need for speed" has got a firm hold on me  |
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Post by mainepeace on May 14, 2011 20:30:27 GMT -5
Here is a shot of the graph in the Data Analyzer program. It's pretty basic. You can select the different data lines you want to show and select a color for each. You can also zoom in and slide the zoomed window left and right using the bar at the top. This is similar to many music editing programs out there. It was developed using an older programming toolset, so it isn't a "windows intuitive" program, but it does what it needs to do. The actual values might not be immediately meaningful as they are raw data. On some graphs you have the ability to select from two different "indicator bars" which will give you the values for all sensors at that instant in time. The names of each graph line are pretty cryptic as to what they mean. Elsewhere in the program you can see some descriptive text for each variable name, but it's not intuitive and not easy to located. Perhaps they will have a good key in the revised help file. They are working on some user tools to enhance the tunability. That's all I can say at the moment. *lips sealed*. Overall, it's a basic program to see the nuts and bolts of what is going on in the ECU. It will definitely take some time to become proficient in it. However, I like that all the data is there, you just have to find it. Greg Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on May 14, 2011 20:44:58 GMT -5
Here is a list of the recorded data variables, along with the ranges and their descriptions. I think that there are over 700 different variables that could be tracked. Not all of them are relevant to this kit though. You can save/load different .ini files that have the specific variables you want to track in them. The software overall is a little cumbersome and quirky, but it gets the job done. This is much better than the OBDII software I used to use to tune my supercharged Mustang! Greg Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 15:50:28 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 15:50:55 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 15:56:09 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 16:34:23 GMT -5
You can see here how the size of the stock airbox snorkel relates to the size of the new throttle body inlet. Greg Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 16:40:46 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 16:45:11 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 16:45:36 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 16:58:51 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 17:56:03 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 18:14:06 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 19:10:06 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 19:35:02 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 19:44:18 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 20:08:08 GMT -5
Fuel pump and pressure regulator. Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 20:11:20 GMT -5
Manual petcock and fuel filter. Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 20:14:11 GMT -5
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 20:21:58 GMT -5
Nipple for fuel return line. Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on May 15, 2011 20:25:33 GMT -5
Hole drilled for the fuel return line. Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on May 16, 2011 15:58:39 GMT -5
Wiring harness diragram. Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on May 16, 2011 16:30:19 GMT -5
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Post by D-cat on May 17, 2011 7:18:12 GMT -5
If you have a good battery there will be no voltage drop. You can get an automotive amperage meter, maybe get 2...
Put one in-line with the battery connector to watch if it is charging or draining and by how much, put the other in line with the ignition switch so you can see the actual power usage. The difference between the two while running tells you how much your bike is using (DC anyway). Get one(s) you can actually read the scale on... the stator doesn't produce more than 12A AC (4A DC) so a mini meter only marked 30 and 60 isn't going to be very readable.
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Post by mainepeace on May 17, 2011 11:25:04 GMT -5
Ok, so I located the Battery Voltage parameter in the ProCAL-SE software. It's labeled (UbAdc). The voltage (numeric) starts at 12.28 and at the LOWEST goes down to 10.03 when cranking. The voltage is very constant at 12.2v-12.4v. On the graph it's shown 1 volt lower, but I think that's just a display issue, as the offset needs to be corrected. I've attached a screenshot of the TPS and the Battery Voltage and the RPM and lambda (oxygen sensor) graphs. The units change depending on which graph variable you click/highlight. It's showing the units for the battery voltage. To give you some idea for the RPMs, the battery voltage line is around 8000 RPMs and the TPS maxes out at 83%. The system considers anything beyond 50% or so to go into the WOT tables, the exact fuel amounts determined by the other sensors. The oxygen sensor line (red) is mainly at stoich (1.0) It jumps around in the middle when I was going slowly through town. Yes, I like going at WOT whenever possible. And yes, the RPM's could be higher. Lots and lots of steep hills. You can see the small peaks where they get up to 9000, those are the few flat spots where I can get some speed going for a few seconds. Greg Attachments:
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Post by 13lky2 on May 17, 2011 13:15:54 GMT -5
I'm curious on fuel consumption numbers. I think this is something I may want to pursue with my current 150 or when I go to the 180cc from Scrappy.
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Post by mainepeace on May 17, 2011 14:37:26 GMT -5
The fuel consumption is definitely LESS than with the carb. I'll get a graph of the injector pulses.
An overall MPG number will still have to wait. It turns out that my DIY petcock doesn't work. The fuel ate away the RTV sealant and the JB Weld wasn't strong enough to hold the poly tube together. This afternoon after a ride I ended up with 1+ gallon of gas all over my garage floor. Damn, at least I already had the other manual petcock I ordered last week. That went in. After a trip to the gas station I'll have to restart my numbers.
I can say that my fuel gauge is moving down slower, anyway. After 20 miles the fuel gauge has not moved from the pegged FULL.
With the Fuel Injection I'm not comfortable running from empty tank to empty tank, as it takes a bit to prime the fuel line. If I did that then I could add 100mL of gas and make some quick numbers, but I don't feel like doing that measuring. I guess I *could* hook up the fuel line to a 1L soda bottle and measure the fuel consumption that way. But I'm lazy.
The rain is supposed to let up tomorrow so I'll be riding most of the day, I hope.
Greg
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