Info on a Xingyue ITA 150....and 16" wheel scoots

[Bluefront]

Rear disc brake service.....replacing the pads is easy. But if you need to deal with the disc, you'll have to remove the wheel. I'm just cleaning up the pads in these photos, heading off any brake noise.



You remove the single 12mm head bolt (red arrow). Pivot the caliper up/back and pull it off the upper slider stud (green arrow). I'm using copper caliper lube, a brake quieting fluid, and a piece of 220 grit sand paper (to clean the pads). All available from auto parts stores.....



A few quick passes over the sand paper (laying on a flat surface), and the friction material is cleaned.....I champered the edges of the friction surface....helps keep down noise.



The anti-squeak fluid soaks into the friction surface (directions on this stuff differ).....and the lube is applied to the surfaces that touch the caliper. Be absolutely certain none of this stuff gets on the rotor or the friction surface. Also apply some lube to the slider stud and the single bolt you removed. Don't pull the brake handle while you're doing this job.

If you're putting on new pads, you'll have to depress the caliper piston (a big channel lock wrench will do it.) You may have to loosen the brake master cylinder cap and remove some fluid.....don't spill any fluid (nasty stuff).



Edit....over the years I've used different types of that brake quieting fluid (worked on cars). Most of the types worked for a while, but had to be reapplied every so often. On a scooter that isn't ridden a whole lot, one application might last a long time. The best brand I ever used was "BG".....I'm using a "MOC" brand here cause I couldn't find my BG stuff.

After you first apply the fluid let it dry for a while, wipe off the excess that didn't soak in, and be very careful the first few brake applications.....it'll feel like you've got no brakes. Very quickly the brakes will return to normal (with less noise hopefully).

[jeepsteve92xj]

I bought my ITA 150 on May 10, still waiting for the plates - silly me I mailed in the application.
Got mine used, already have put 300 miles in in a month. 70+ mpg, dont know how accurate my odo or speedo are.

BIG issue is the lack of night time headlight - wow! the output is abysmal!
Has anyone done an HID Xenon upgrade for the headlight?
At less than $80, a hi/lo kit llike these:
www.partsforscooters.com/All-Parts?search=HID
is a no brainer to get and iinstall

BUT which kit. I made contact with that store but they dont have cross reference to help me.


Anyone have a clue?
Thanks

[Bluefront]

Sorry....can't help you out there. I drive so little after dark, the poor headlight hasn't concerned me very much. But it's an interesting subject. If any owners of this scoot model have done a successful installation, please post about it.

[emanyoda]

That looks like the right bulb type for this scoot. I'm definitely going to order a kit.....Nice find!!!!

[Bluefront]

Apparently some of these kits only give you a single beam. On the kits that give a hi/lo beam, does the wiring integrate with the OEM hi/low switch?

My hi/low switch has a hi-beam flasher function ...... will that still be operational?

And what does that "single or double claw" refer to?

[Bluefront]

It's been in the 90s around here the last few weeks.....here's a soft-sided cooler I've been carrying around. It is held on using four ball-ended tarp bungees. Comes off in seconds to carry around, and is stiff enough to hold it's shape when empty. Got it at Walmart last year....





I think this is the first two-wheeled vehicle I've ever owned that attracts so much attention. People stop me all the time to ask questions, try to buy it off me, and leave messages on it when I'm parked somewhere. Never happened even once with either of my 50s......

[gross392]

Anyone put any contra springs or new clutch springs in their Xingyue? I want to but I'm wondering what springs to go with? Anyone have any input? I just want some quicker off the line I think my clutch springs are too loose because it engages at a really low rpm and has no power.

[emanyoda]

I'm going through all that transmission stuff right now.....my variator weights measure 19.5x15 and weigh 12.2 grams.....do you think they make a variator kit to fit this scoot???.......no. I think I'm going to order 18x14 weights that are 10 grams, and see how that works. As far as the clutch goes, I guess it's a common size clutch so I'm gonna order one with prob 3000 rpm springs....I guess we'll see

[benjaminm]

[/quote]

In this picture what is the tube above the breaks filled with brown fluid? I have the same hose on mine but there is nothing in it.

[♣Luke♣]

the reason for the brake noise is dust deposited between brake pad and the rotor, what i do is to blow all the dust out using a 100 psi pressurized air. i do it at least once or twice a month. no more noise!!

[Bluefront]

That little brown tube is supposed to collect any excess engine oil that settles in the bottom of the air cleaner housing, blown there by the valve cover breather (normal operation).

Apparently that system doesn't work very well.....the oil mostly drips out on the CVT cover, if you have excessive blow-by.

[Bluefront]

Got a set of Nelson Rigg Sphere saddle bags (#SSB500). Got them pretty cheap because they're somewhat sun-faded (Craig's List of course).

They fit nice.....multiple ways to attach them. The velcro straps hook together under the seat. There are also buckles, straps, foam pads to protect the paint, rain covers, etc. The sides have outer extend-able panels, so the bags can be about 4" wider than the photo. There are aluminized panels on the bottoms.....soft interiors,etc.

These are a few years old.....cost about $100 new. For occasional use like a camping trip, they'll work fine. They're a little too big to leave on there permanently IMO....



Features:
• Made from durable long lasting UV-treated "Tri-Max®" polyester.
• Designed to accommodate the high exhausts on some of today’s bikes.
• Expands up to almost 100% for extra cargo.
• Protective back pad to prevent marking your bike.
• Rigid sides and lower panel maintain shape when empty and reduce wind resistance.
• Bags securely mount using wide Velcro® straps and quick release buckles.
• Lined interior complete with an easy grab zipper pull for main compartment.
• External front pockets for quick and easy access.
• Heat resistant under panels.
• Highly reflective webbing helps enhance safety for night riding.
• Extra-large, heavy-duty zippers with pull tabs are reliable for use with or without gloves.
• 100% waterproof rainstorm liner included.
• Lifetime "No Hassle" manufacturer warranty.
• Measures: 21”L X 10”H X 9”W, When Expanded: 21"L X 10"H X 12"W

[jeepsteve92xj]

Jun 15, 2010 5:08:17 GMT -5 Bluefront said:

Apparently some of these kits only give you a single beam. On the kits that give a hi/lo beam, does the wiring integrate with the OEM hi/low switch?

My hi/low switch has a hi-beam flasher function ...... will that still be operational?

And what does that "single or double claw" refer to?

the CLAW refers to the socket type:
"it depends the holes on the lamp socket. if it has three holes. it can be called three claws."

How hard would it be to mod the headlight housing to accept a standard type bulb? H4 or 9006 or whatever. Sure would make things easier.
My stock lo beam lights the ceiling of my garage. The hi beam is like a 30foot focused maglite that needs batteries bad!

I havent had the bulb out to see the base but a bit of looking it seems it MIGHT be a
Rating 12V35/35W
Bulb BA20D

I wish I had a list of all the bulbs used on this scooter without having to take it all apart first.

I've been riding at 4:30 and even 2:30am several times this week to early work. Light traffic is nice, but I want to see and BE SEEN better than now.

for LEDs, I am looking at
www.superbrightleds.com

autolumination.com/


lack of great detail in description but good prices
www.sourcingmap.com/car-flash-lamp-c-1115_1559.html?page

[Bluefront]

Well mine has a Philipps 35/35w S2 bulb.......which uses a very unusual socket. Scrappy sells them.....as do other places. AFAIK.....there are no LED headlight bulbs sold in this country (legally).

You have to be very careful not to melt the headlight lens with a bulb that draws more than 35W. I suppose you could replace the socket with some modification, but what standard bulb would you use that was better than stock?

[jeepsteve92xj]

I dont see how to edit my post, but I have new information.
/edit - i see it now, I was looking for EDIT and saw Notify instead
Now I know
;D

LED for all the other bulbs, not the headlight

The number of CLAW is not single beam or hi/lo beam indication.
I messaged an ebayer selling a THREE -claw HID kit and he said the CLAW refers to the socket type:
"it depends the holes on the lamp socket. if it has three holes. it can be called three claws."

I also read last night that the hi/lo system for HID is called a TELESCOPING bulb. There is a shield that moved in the bulb - I think it was under the general DIY here in scootdawg.

So, this HID kit (HIDs draw 35W)
www.partsforscooters.com/138-33__HID__HeadLight__Kit
Seems to be the correct choice for this scooter

[riceburner]

Jun 18, 2010 4:06:03 GMT -5 jeepsteve92xj said:

I dont see how to edit my post, but I have new information.
/edit - i see it now, I was looking for EDIT and saw Notify instead
Now I know
;D

The Modify button does the same thing. ;D

[JR]

Jun 17, 2010 10:50:46 GMT -5 Bluefront said:

Got a set of Nelson Rigg Sphere saddle bags (#SSB500). Got them pretty cheap because they're somewhat sun-faded (Craig's List of course).

They fit nice.....multiple ways to attach them. The velcro straps hook together under the seat. There are also buckles, straps, foam pads to protect the paint, rain covers, etc. The sides have outer extend-able panels, so the bags can be about 4" wider than the photo. There are aluminized panels on the bottoms.....soft interiors,etc.

These are a few years old.....cost about $100 new. For occasional use like a camping trip, they'll work fine. They're a little too big to leave on there permanently IMO....



Features:
• Made from durable long lasting UV-treated "Tri-Max®" polyester.
• Designed to accommodate the high exhausts on some of today’s bikes.
• Expands up to almost 100% for extra cargo.
• Protective back pad to prevent marking your bike.
• Rigid sides and lower panel maintain shape when empty and reduce wind resistance.
• Bags securely mount using wide Velcro® straps and quick release buckles.
• Lined interior complete with an easy grab zipper pull for main compartment.
• External front pockets for quick and easy access.
• Heat resistant under panels.
• Highly reflective webbing helps enhance safety for night riding.
• Extra-large, heavy-duty zippers with pull tabs are reliable for use with or without gloves.
• 100% waterproof rainstorm liner included.
• Lifetime "No Hassle" manufacturer warranty.
• Measures: 21”L X 10”H X 9”W, When Expanded: 21"L X 10"H X 12"W

Got them pretty cheap because they're somewhat sun-faded (Craig's List of course).

Imagine that you cheap!! Naw No Way! But I will show you what a nice looking self made custom set of real saddlebags look like of course designed and custom made by you know who!

These are with polished stainless steel and pretty, the kind you're not ashamed to be seen on the road with at any time or any place, just can't get this quality on the second hand site Craigslist! LOL JRR

[emanyoda]

Oh man.....lets not make this thread about saddlebags........unless your in your 60's....then there pretty relevant. Lets keep it on the performance topic, shall we. Has anyone changed out the clutch, and variator weights on this bike yet, and if so what was the results and what did you use. What rpm springs did you use? What gram weights did you use???

[Bluefront]

As I said a while back.....this thread on the Xingyue would be somewhat different from the other threads. Meaning it would contain stuff of interest to everyone who rides one of these scooters, and not just performance related. And I occasionally do pack up my bikes and go places, perhaps camping.

As to what those photos of a 250 with hard/permanently mounted bags are doing in this thread....you'll have to ask JRR/Lovelace. He/she likes to clutter up the place I suppose.

This thread from 2008, was one of the first threads concerning this scooter, and it contains a bunch of performance related stuff.

[riceburner]

jr...I must say those saddle bags look tight even if the top box looks like a coffin. ;D....excellent work...

eman...as my signature says, I installed 10g sliders in my stock variator and really like the improvement in acceleration.

I highly recommend a rejet for ITA 150.
With the stock pilot the idle was embarrassingly weak. After the rejet the 150 idles as solid as can be.
Rejetting the main put the T in torque for the machine.

Rejetting is the best bang for your 10 bucks.

[JR]

It belongs as much as you belong on the 250 site trying to tell anyone about anything related to a 250 and BTW I do own a 150 also! LOL

Now I dug back into my memory and finally remembered an old gal that had the nickname "Lovelace" way back from bootcamp days ya know those wild and wooly days Woo Hoo!. Said she was from St. Louis and had a brother that claimed to be a mechanic. How'd ya know? Dang small world, imagine after all these years meeting up with a relative of hers like this! Man the stories she could tell, ooops can't talk about that stuff here! LOL.

Ok now back to 150 mods ya say? Ok well how do ya like this one?



It's a custom sporty chrome exhaust on my Bali 150, mounted up with new stainless steel hardware and man does it sound sweet after I added some more packing.




New prodigy variator, nice allows me to purr down the road at 60 MPH at 6500 RPM, raised my MPG to over 80 MPG!

Oh before I forget here is the scooter, aint she a beaut!




Dang it Bluefront, ya need to loosen up a bit, this obsessive Craiglist shopping has given you such an ill disposition kind of like a mean clown;




Here have a pretty flower;



Sometimes ya just got to let loose and SMILE!!

[JR]

Jun 18, 2010 12:47:41 GMT -5 riceburner said:

jr...I must say those saddle bags look tight even if the top box looks like a coffin. ;D....excellent work...

eman...as my signature says, I installed 10g sliders in my stock variator and really like the improvement in acceleration.

I highly recommend a rejet for ITA 150.
With the stock pilot the idle was embarrassingly weak. After the rejet the 150 idles as solid as can be.
Rejetting the main put the T in torque for the machine.

Rejetting is the best bang for your 10 bucks.

Why thank ya there Riceburner! And yes the slider upgrade is absolutely one of the best upgrades for a 150, no doubt. Yes the OEM trunk is big and after thinking about what ya said is kind of like a coffin!! LOL But man can you carry the stuff! heck with all my compartments and under the seat I can go to Wal mart and carry a whole shopping cart of groceries home, I mean it! LOL

But man if you want to tune that 150 sweet like I said get the Prodigy variator, it's worth the time and trouble. JRR

[Bluefront]

More carb tuning......I visited the local Honda dealer and bought a few main jets ($5 ea). I've got a #103, 107 110, 112.5. And I have two 24mm Keihin carbs. I started trying out my Honda carb.....it runs pretty good with the stock #34 pilot, needle all the way up, and a 103 main. There is some detonation audible upon acceleration. The idle is fair.....overall runs fairly well.

This Honda carb will not run on the #107 main......bogs on WOT. I tried the #110.....same. Went back to the #103.....back to normal.

Next I tried the Xingyue stock carb which came with a #103 also......same pilot, same needle setting, runs about the same. I tried the #107 main....couldn't feel much difference. Then I went up to the #112.5......felt somewhat stronger at WOT. I'm going to test this out for a while....calculate gas mileage, etc. I cannot explain the apparent differences between these two almost identical carbs. The Xingyue carb still has some detonation at lower speeds. The next step will deal with the pilot jet, trying to eliminate detonation, and stabilize the idle speed.

More to come.

[JR]

Jun 18, 2010 14:19:36 GMT -5 Bluefront said:

More carb tuning......I visited the local Honda dealer and bought a few main jets ($5 ea). I've got a #103, 107 110, 112.5. And I have two 24mm Keihin carbs. I started trying out my Honda carb.....it runs pretty good with the stock #38 pilot, needle all the way up, and a 103 main. There is some detonation audible upon acceleration. The idle is fair.....overall runs fairly well.

This Honda carb will not run on the #107 main......bogs on WOT. I tried the #110.....same. Went back to the #103.....back to normal.

Next I tried the Xingyue stock carb which came with a #103 also......same pilot, same needle setting, runs about the same. I tried the #107 main....couldn't feel much difference. Then I went up to the #112.5......felt somewhat stronger at WOT. I'm going to test this out for a while....calculate gas mileage, etc. I cannot explain the apparent differences between these two almost identical carbs. The Xingyue carb still has some detonation at lower speeds. The next step will deal with the pilot jet, trying to eliminate detonation, and stabilize the idle speed.

More to come.

OK I'm here to help, looks lik I came just in the nick of time!


When you’re selecting a main jet remember not to blowup your engine. It’s better to go too rich at first then try smaller and smaller jets until it runs the best. If your engine really wanted to breathe, and you helped it do that, then a 20% larger main is a good place to start. Most likely the main you choose will be less than 20% larger what your scooter came with.

Something to remember when jetting your carb is that colder air requires more fuel and hotter requires less. What this means is that if you tune in the warm part of the day then go ride at night, when it’s 20 degrees colder, you’ll have a better idea of how close your jetting is. If your machine runs better that night then your jetting is too rich. If your scooter runs better in the day when it’s warm then it’s too lean. This is the ultimate test for choosing the correct main. The main you choose should have your scooter running about the same in warm or cold temperatures. The same holds true for altitude. The higher you go the thinner the air. At sea level your scooter will need a richer mixture for the dense air and in the mountains you’ll need leaner jets for that thin air. If your scooter is set up for sea level even going over 2000 feet can make you too rich. A rich main can make your engine slower and miss or sputter and hard to start. A lean main will lack power and the engine may feel like it’s running out of gas at full throttle. Another sign of a lean mixture is a loud hollow intake sound. If you open up the intake system so it breathes better without richening the mixture you may notice that the intake sound is louder. Once you find the main that gives you the best top speed you can go to the next step.

I like to skip around so the pilot is next. The reason the pilot is next is because the pilot or “slow jet” is effective to ¼ throttle then finishes tapering off close to ½ throttle opening. The main jet starts at ¼ throttle but really comes on from ¾ to full throttle. We’ll get to the needle but that’s after we get the pilot set. Don't forget we are talking about CV carbs here so it's possible your slide is riding lower than you think for any given throttle position.

Let me stress this again, "don't forget we are talking about CV carbs here so it's possible your slide is riding lower than you think for any given throttle position." For example the Ruckus or Met isn't really off the pilot circuit until about 20mph. Of course the main can effect lower engine speeds but if your slide is only at 1/4" opening and your throttle is wide open you are still on the pilot. This is a major source of headaches for most people new to CV carb jetting.

The pilot jet uses the same fuel circuit as the idle mixture screw. A lean pilot can make your machine feel like it’s out of gas, idle too fast or just be gutless from idle to just past ¼ throttle. The air/fuel screw on your carb can be adjusted to provide more or less fuel as need be. The mixture screw is not to be confused with the idle speed screw. The idle speed screw rotates the throttle wheel just like the throttle cable does.


Your adjuster screw may be hiding behind a cap. The cap is there to keep you from tampering with it. You may need to drill out this cap so you can adjust the screw. If your screw is on the airfilter side of the slide rotating it counter clockwise will lean out the idle mixture. This is called an air screw. The reason is that rotating it counter clockwise allows more air into the engine thus leaning out the idle mixture. If your carb has the mixture screw after the slide on the engine side of the carb it’s a fuel screw. Rotating a fuel screw counter clockwise allows more fuel in the engine thus making it run richer at idle.

Before you make any changes to your idle mixture screw turn the screw in while counting the number of turns until it seats. Write that number down so you don’t forget, then unscrew the screw to the proper setting. It’s possible that it wasn’t correct to start with so checking with the service manual for the proper setting is a good idea. To see how close your pilot jet is you can warm up your engine and adjust your mixture screw to see what happens. If the engine idles better with a richer mixture then you need a richer pilot. Though you can adjust the mixture screw to compensate for a lean or rich pilot it’s not the proper way to do it. A lean pilot will still be lean and using the mixture screw will only mask the problem. Once the pilot is correct you should find that the mixture screw is set close to the factory setting.

You’ll know if you have the correct pilot by using the information above and what you learned about the main. A rich mixture will make your scooter run better in that range when the air temperature or engine is cold. A lean mixture will run better in warm air temperatures and when the engine is warm.

Now we are back to the needle. This should be easy, what we want to do here is raise the needle in the slide until the engine runs the best. Some needles have clips that can be adjusted and others have fixed heads. If your needle is not adjustable you can use small washers to raise the needle. The washers need to be 1mm thick and the needle holder may need to be modified so it fits correctly. Make sure you don’t force anything when you work on the carb.

The needle is tapered as mentioned before. Raising the needle allows more fuel out through the main jet sooner. The normal operation for the needle jet is just before ¼ throttle opening until about full throttle when the needle is no longer blocking fuel flow from the main jet. After you are settled on your needle position and pilot take your scoot for a ride in warm and cold air to see how it runs. If you can’t really tell the difference between the two you must have done everything right. If you find that it’s too lean or rich go back and make adjustments.

Another nugget is to remember not to just zip up and down your driveway changing jets. If you have an electric choke it won't even shut off for about 10 minutes. You don't want your engine to run good in the first 10 minutes. You want your engine to run good when it's warm or better yet hot! Your goal is to have it start easy and be a little cold blooded. That means it should fire right up but need to warm up a little. I have had to make compromises and just shoot for the cold blooded and hard to start but do your best to get it perfect.


We can talk about different needle tapers, slide or “throttle valve” cutaways, shortening slide springs, modifying the holes in the vacuum piston and a couple other things but we covered the most important details and adding more would only make it more confusing. That’s it, either you’re really confused or enlightened. Jetting a carb is part science and part magic so it takes time to master it. The fact is that jetting is super important to learn. Not many shops take the time to jet stuff perfectly because no one wants to pay them for it. If your shop told you they spent four hours jetting your machine and handed you the bill my guess is that you would be angry. So if it this sounds like something you can do get out some tools, your scoot and start learning.

I hope this helps! JRR

[Bluefront]

^^^^^CV Carb Tuning 101 I guess.

But only a few people need to concern themselves with the fine details, if they're using the carb that came with this scooter. The jetting is close, and probably won't require a master's degree to fix any problems you might have.

The next size up pilot jet, and a main jet or two should be sufficient to fix any issues. In fact.....just raising the needle to it's richest position may be all you need.

My scoot detonates on acceleration (not WOT)....don't think I've heard anybody complain about that with this scoot. That's what concerns me the most here. Raising the needle fixed most of it but not all. I'm already running 93 octane gas, but I tried some octane booster...mixed results. I really don't want to use that stuff as a permanent fix.....so I'm attempting to fix the detonation with carburetor tweaking first.

And IMO.....you start with the main jet. It has an effect on the whole range of jetting, so start there. When you exceed the maximum size jet, your scoot will no longer take a wide open throttle.....so you go back to the next leanest size (or so). Keep in mind.....your scoot may run good with a really rich main jet, but you'll be getting a lot of carbon deposits, the plug may foul easier, and your gas mileage will suffer.

That's where I'm at right now. I'm running a 112.5 main, which I'm testing. I'll take spark plug readings, calculate gas mileage, and ride the scoot under a number of conditions. The temperature has been in the 90s lately and that has an effect. The altitude around here is about 600ft....that has an effect also. What I'm saying is, no one set of jet sizes will be perfect for everyone. But these scoots have to pass federal emission requirements......so they all will come jetted leaner than is best for the engine, and for performance.

More to come....

[JR]

Ok so you half way can follow good instructions, BTW I'd keep putting the octane booster in, kind of like the "oh it won't hurt it either" so your next thread will be "HOW TO REBUILD A BURNED UP ENGINE" ! But as usual you seem to like to stumble around with something as simple as rejetting a carb and what will be funny is when and if you ever get it right you'll end up right on the specs as I listed above. LOL

So here's some more carb 101 so maybe, just maybe you won't spend another week or two explaining here how you finally went from point A to point B rejetting a carb and ended up at the above settings! LOL Now pay attention this is expert advice BTW;

Sizing at sea level:
With UNI filter 120-125
With UNI filter and low restriction exhaust 130-135
With UNI filter, low restriction exhaust, A12 cam, performance coil & CDI and NGK Iridium spark plug 135-140

Test procedure:
1. Run engine at less than half throttle a minimum of 15 minutes to close electric choke
2. On a 300' or 100 meter stretch or greater, run the engine at wide open throttle
3. While still holding the gas pedal to the floor, cut the ignition
4. Remove the spark plug and inspect end for color
a. White - Increase jet size
b. Tan/Brown - Correct jet size
c. Black - Decrease jet size
5. Clean spark plug with brass wire brush and check the gap prior to next test run

Hints:
1. Change jet size by 2 or 2.5 for fine adjustment by 5 for coarse adjustment
2. Reduce jet size by 2 or 2.5 for every 1500 ft or 500 meters of elevation
3. Stock fuel delivery may not be sufficient above a 130 main jet and may require larger diameter fuel lines and less restrictive fuel filter
4. Once main jet is selected, the air/fuel mixture screw can be adjusted for optimum idle

Now print this out and hop to it, times a wasting, summer is going to be gone and instead of riding you're going to be scratching your head saying Oh if I had just..........

Get off of Craigslist and go to work! JRR

[Bluefront]

Yawn.....keep in mind my jetting changes are being done using the stock exhaust, and the stock air filter. If you change either one, the whole thing will be made more difficult......and the jetting a bunch different from what I'll end up with.

IMHO.....anybody who tells you he knows everything about jetting on these scoots is stretching reality quite a bit (to be nice). I own a Xingyue ITA 150....generic information about 150 GY6 carbs is helpful, but not the final word (much as some people pretend).

One more thing....my detonation issue may be partially related to the variator weights, which seem to be too heavy. This causes you to open the throttle more than necessary at slower speeds, to compensate for the relatively poor acceleration. I'm in no particular hurry about all this.....so I take things one step at a time. Others might go for a total fix all at once.....which is very unlikely.

[Bluefront]

Here's an issue with brake handle free play that I fixed yesterday. I don't know how common this problem is, but that made the problem go away. I do wish these scoots came with adjusters for brake free play.

Now if you have too much free play, you'll have to try something else. Could be you have air in the hydraulic line.

["Big Guy"]

May 8, 2010 5:28:38 GMT -5 Bluefront said:

...Right now everything is working normal no matter the three-way switch position. You're saying this scoot has a completely non-functional lighting switch...and that's normal? Pretty weird.....

No it's not... that switch is for the non-US market. Lots of scooters come with the switch disabled and some actually work, but they are all supposed to be disabled when imported to the US.

As for the small fake lights marked with the green arrow, same thing, in non-US markets, this scooter has running lights for when you turn off the headlight. What's really strange is, some I have seen have actually been hooked up to the wiring harness and the bulbs were painted with a thick yellow paint so they wouldn't illuminate. The Chinese do some strange things...


-Rich

[JR]

Jun 19, 2010 7:02:26 GMT -5 Bluefront said:

Yawn.....keep in mind my jetting changes are being done using the stock exhaust, and the stock air filter. If you change either one, the whole thing will be made more difficult......and the jetting a bunch different from what I'll end up with.

IMHO.....anybody who tells you he knows everything about jetting on these scoots is stretching reality quite a bit (to be nice). I own a Xingyue ITA 150....generic information about 150 GY6 carbs is helpful, but not the final word (much as some people pretend).

One more thing....my detonation issue may be partially related to the variator weights, which seem to be too heavy. This causes you to open the throttle more than necessary at slower speeds, to compensate for the relatively poor acceleration. I'm in no particular hurry about all this.....so I take things one step at a time. Others might go for a total fix all at once.....which is very unlikely.

Yawn.....keep in mind my jetting changes are being done using the stock exhaust, and the stock air filter. If you change either one, the whole thing will be made more difficult......and the jetting a bunch different from what I'll end up with.

Now how many articles and even how to's on this forum do you need to read to know that when you upjet you also change.......

I own a Xingyue ITA 150....generic information about 150 GY6 carbs is helpful, but not the final word (much as some people pretend).

And this scooter is not generic? Now who's pretending?

One more thing....my detonation issue may be partially related to the variator weights, which seem to be too heavy. This causes you to open the throttle more than necessary at slower speeds, to compensate for the relatively poor acceleration. I'm in no particular hurry about all this.....so I take things one step at a time. Others might go for a total fix all at once.....which is very unlikely.

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OK OK I'm still here and I'll gather up the how to on changing the weights on this so called non-generic scooter! Stay tuned!


I've got my thinking hat on!







And I'll be BACK!! JRR