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Post by WildMan on Nov 3, 2009 19:45:02 GMT -5
Alleyoop My float gage measures .709" for float hight..
As far as the idling issue, I'd adjust your idle air fuel mixture screw, & see if that helps thats.. Also I know this was discussed in one of your other threads, if you get to where you can eliminate the float & fuel in the oil issue, & readjust the mixture screw for the idling issue, I'd consider valve adjustment, but I'd save that until you eliminate the other first, because those issues are most likely & valve adjustment isn't going to be an easy task w/ the BEAR..
Something to consider, I'm mixing 189 ml Marvel Mystery oil / 946 ml 10w-40 motor oil, & 44 ml Marvel Mystery oil (1.5 oz) / 3.5 gal gas. This will help lubricate & clean top end (valves & valve seats), reduce carbon in the combustion chamber. Will also help reduce sludge in the crank case which will help retain the life of the oil, which is cause by excessive heat. My theory is this may also help keep valve from tightening up, which does happen, but if we can reduce the amount of carbon build up they shouldn't..
You're lucky, I can't adjust my idle air mixture screw unless I pop the factory seal off..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 3, 2009 21:00:43 GMT -5
Dwild62, I have messed with the Air/Mixture and Idle screw. when cold its starts right up and the idle goes up over 1000 rpms then its like its getting flooded and then the rpms start to drop and will die if I do not hold the throttle open a little to get the RPMS up. This takes about 1minute and then I can let go of the throttle and it will idle around 1600 rpms and then I put on my helmet and gloves and take off. So its just at the first start when cold if its warm no problems starting it and it idles right up without having to tweak the throttle open a little. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 3, 2009 21:30:33 GMT -5
Alleyoop Well, if I lived in Chicago, I'd come over there & help you figure it out.. I know it can be puzzling at times..
I've gotten about 2/3 of the parts & accessories I ordered so far, I should have everything by the end of the week, till then things are kinda on hold.. The head should be here Thursday, we'll see what I got for my money.. This head is only temporary, as I'm going to try one of Dave Endrigo's Performance Heads at GY6 HeadQuarters..
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Post by als01seville on Nov 3, 2009 22:28:14 GMT -5
Dwild62, The idle i think its the enricher, so maybe I should loosen the two screws and slide the retainer out and pull the enricher off and plug the hole with my hand and start it and see if it makes a difference. If it does that would fix that and then I would just order a new Carb because a enricher costs 25.00 shipped. Half of what a whole Carb with an enricher. I will try that tomorrow. I just went out to the garage and re-adjusted the air/mixture because it was not idleing smooth, the mirrors were vibrating. Opened the air/mixture a little more and the mirrors do not virbrate anymore so its idleing very smooth. Alleyoop Alleyoop
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Post by als01seville on Nov 3, 2009 22:34:57 GMT -5
Dwild62, You are determined to get that BLUE STREAK laying TWO strips of rubber. Since you got it down apart so far why not take the Clutch off and cover off and see how many teeth the Secondary gear has. Changing that they say if you were doing 50 at 7000 RPMs you would be doing 60mph at 7000 rpms a 10mph gain at the same rpms. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 3, 2009 23:07:28 GMT -5
Alleyoop WOW, slow down just a little!! Some how I doubt it's the enricher.. More likely it's float or pump. That pump idea might not be to far off, cause that could cause the gas in oil & create a vacuum leak, which would cause your problems in a nut shell, it'd be worth looking into..
As far as the blue streak, I'm still not sure what I need to do yet, even after watching it on You Tube.. Because if you got to get another axle (which in the trike is just a final shaft).. I don't no, I'll have to watch it again I guess.. I may look at that later in the winter.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 4, 2009 17:00:17 GMT -5
Dwild62, Well i disconnected the vacuum line and first off it was dry and did not smell from gas. Then I sucked on it many times and drew nothing, so with that science project over with I can eliminate the pump as the source of gas in my oil. So it must be something else that is letting gas go into the oil. After I ride it and get it hot and shut it off It does give a burnt odor like rubber or something. Alleyoop
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Post by als01seville on Nov 4, 2009 17:02:04 GMT -5
Dwild62, Are the Carbs on the Trikes 24mm? Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 5, 2009 0:20:52 GMT -5
Alleyoop Yes the stock carbs are 24mm..
Well, I got the complete head today, from Parts Fox on ebay.. Everything was in good shape & right. Head was 100% complete assembly minus cam. Head, valves, valve springs, cylinder base gasket, head gasket, & a spark plug (stock plug)..
Changed the head today, also got swing frame bolted back in place & everything buttoned up again, & had the BEAR fired up. Well it was definitely quicker dropping the swing frame, then if I took the body skin off, though it was a real be-och getting the swing frame back in place by myself, but I got it.. Still waiting for filter & V-Band exhaust clamp, looks like I won't get filter until next week..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 5, 2009 0:54:51 GMT -5
Dwild62, WOW! you DA MAN!! Nice going David Sr. I am impressed that the Bear cranked right up. Speaking of the exhaust clamp, I ordered the one from Global and actually put it on today and no more PUFF PUFF leaking, works great. By the way I just ordered a New Carb. Alleyoop
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Post by als01seville on Nov 5, 2009 13:14:52 GMT -5
Dwild62, Well I checked for vacuum leaks and nothing. Sprayed all over especially by the intake as well as by the "T" connections and found no leaks. But I do hear some clicking under the engine around the oil drain plug. Sounds like a ball rolling around almost. I have one of those mechanics hearing things looks like one of those the doctors use to check your heart and back. I thought it was the Variator at first but no I went all over the engine and thats were I can hear it the loudest. When its idling you can hear tink-a-tink. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 5, 2009 22:42:21 GMT -5
OK Dawg's To days mods, nothing real serious, just getting some minor things out of the way.. David Sr.
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Post by JR on Nov 5, 2009 23:10:42 GMT -5
V band clamps huh? LOL You know how many thousands of those I have welded on in industrial applications especially the food industry? LOL www.mcmaster.com/#quick-clamp-tube-fittings/=4dnmz5They come in sizes from 1" to 12" and are especially used on stainless steel tubing where it has to be taken apart at the days end for cleaning for the next days production and they ain't cheap. The clamp and ferruls you used are commonly called Tri-clamps too! Now that's neat and again have welded a many one up but never dreamed I'd see one on a scooter!! LOL Great job and where did ya get them? Me if I needed some I'd just go up to my buddy's fab shop and get some old used ones that he would just give me. Got to throw ya a bone on this one! JRR
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Post by als01seville on Nov 5, 2009 23:41:19 GMT -5
Dwild62, Nice Job, what did you use to shine up the pipe and muffler? That is a very good spot you put the tach, it will be easy to read. Keep us posted on how it runs with your air intake velocity stack. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 5, 2009 23:58:02 GMT -5
JRR Ya, they're not cheap is right!! I got this one from EGP Sales (EG Performance) on ebay for $29. which was the cheapest one I could find.. They use them in the racing / high performance industry to. Summit Racing sells them for like $40. & they aren't 100% stainless ether, the one I bought is 100% 304 stainless, & can be use in the food industry to..
For a 150cc scoot it really is a wee bit over kill, but I won't have to worry about those springs now.. Alleyoop used one similar, he used a flat stainless band clamp (stainless T Bolt Band Clamp) less expensive & I'm sure works just as well, probably doesn't look quite so bulky ether.
David Sr.
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Post by WildMan on Nov 6, 2009 0:09:01 GMT -5
Alleyoop I used an abrasive wheel, similar to a wire wheel, but w/ a fine aggression then a wire wheel. I thought it made a pretty nice finish..
Well I won't be able to do any riding until next week, when I get the filter for the stack.. But I can say it doesn't idle any different w/ just the stack alone..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 6, 2009 0:10:50 GMT -5
Hi Dwild62 , yes your correct my stainless T Bolt Band Clamp cost $11.00 shipped, it looks like its about the same width as yours. I kept my springs on though. I just wanted to stop the PUFF PUFF leaking sound and the clamp did its job no more leaks. Alleyoop
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Post by als01seville on Nov 6, 2009 1:06:07 GMT -5
Hi Dwild62, I just noticed on your pipe is that some kind of emission thing sticking out. Mine does not have any emission stuff on it at all, except for the cat built into the muffler. That is great that it idles well with just the stack on. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 6, 2009 20:34:44 GMT -5
OK All I did a couple more mods today.. - First I installed a high performance coil, definitely a plus.. I observed the spark, has a much bluer spark now..
- Second I installed a timing advance key, also seems to be an improvement.. After installing timing advance key, the 1st thing I noticed was that it was idling about 350 rmp faster, cold idle & warm idle.. The 2nd thing I noticed was, it took about 5 minutes longer to come up to operating tempature..
Can't do a test run until next week, still waiting for 44mm air filter.. Then I can work on jetting carb, & start experimenting w/ contra & clutch springs.. David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 6, 2009 23:02:22 GMT -5
Dwild62, WOW! you are going to have that thing smoking good for you:)
Well Yesterday evening I had the Mechanic pick up my Trike. He cleaned out the Carb, adjusted the Float which he said was a little off, He adjusted the Valves the Exhaust was Tight the Intake was Loose, changed the oil and gear oil. He said 220cc came out of the Gear box and he filled it back up with 220cc. It now starts up cold and idles and no need to hold the throttle to keep it running. He said that the idleing problem was due to the Valves.
BUT it still will not go past 6000 rpms. He said I need a new cdi but he didn't have one, so he rode the Trike back to my house so I could at least ride it until either I get a new cdi or if I wanted he could get one for me. I contacted Michael and asked about package #1 and Package #2. He said he was out of Package #1 and that the CDI in Package #2 was of a better quality and that he is currently running that in his Scoot. So I just ordered the Racing CDI Package #2 from Buggyspartnw. So I Hope that will get my RPMS back will know in 1-3 days I paid extra for the 1-3 delivery:)
I have my fingers crossed:) Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 6, 2009 23:38:29 GMT -5
Alleyoop
Man I hope it doesn't start SMOKIN, because that'll mean I screwed up some where!! ;D ;D
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 7, 2009 1:35:20 GMT -5
Dwild62, Good one my man. Alleyoop
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Post by mountainmoped on Nov 7, 2009 1:50:10 GMT -5
I am considering cutting out the bottom of my seat "tub" on my Icebear PST150H to make access to the engine possible without dismantling the bodywork. I might fabricate a removable sheet metal bottom that can be quickly removed.
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Post by WildMan on Nov 7, 2009 8:16:32 GMT -5
mountainmoped Ya, I've considered that thought also..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 7, 2009 16:24:49 GMT -5
Dwild62, Having the valves adjusted did help my idle after a cold start, so it wasn't my enricher, the enricher is working fine. It starts up revs to about 2000 then gradually starts to drop as it warms up and idles at 1500. I have been thinking about the gas in the oil, and I bet it happened when my Air/Fuel mixture fell out, talk about running rich!!! because the mechanice changed my oil and there was no gas in the oil. But I bet running all that time with all that gas in the oil probably ruined the Crank Bearings and thats why the shaft and Variator get so hot. Is that somewhat of an easy install of a new Crank? Alleyoop
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Post by als01seville on Nov 7, 2009 16:33:57 GMT -5
Dwild62, by the way forgot to mention, I took the shorten Boss out and put in the Orginal and no change. I took off the Belt and Before I took the Variator and Fan off I grabbed and turned it back and forth and I definitly could hear some kind of binding. The Crank shaft does not rock or move but I bet the bearings on the Crank itself is the problem(BUMMER): All that gas in the oil most likely did the damage when the Air/Fuel Mixture Screw fell out. If I would have checked the oil sooner or know better I would not be in this mess now. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 7, 2009 23:02:06 GMT -5
Alleyoop Any idea of the amount of gas you think might have gotten in the oil? I wonder if a full synthetic 10w-40 motor oil would make any difference or not? They say full synthetic oil will drop the temperature about 20 deg. I believe you said you're running 15w-40.. I've been told by 2 scooter companies that 15w-40 is vary bad for these little engines, I know the owners manuals say 15w-40, but like I said, I was told that it's bad.. I was told to run 5w-30 in my Longbo, but that seemed to thin so I went to 10w-40 instead..
Changing the crank is a major break down of engine case. Might be cheaper to buy a new engine.. Probably less than $500.
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 8, 2009 18:55:22 GMT -5
Dwild62, Hey bud, I will try anything, what is the VERY BEST STUFF and is this just regular car oil or diesel or special 4 stroke sythetic oil. The Racing CDI will arrive tomorrow or tuesday and the mechanic insists its the CDI. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 8, 2009 20:26:46 GMT -5
Alleyoop I'd use any brand of 10w-40, labled full synthetic.
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 8, 2009 20:35:23 GMT -5
Dwild62, thanks, I have been googling and they say its SLIPERRY as S... and like you said keeps your parts cooler. Alleyoop
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