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Post by als01seville on Jan 2, 2010 23:10:11 GMT -5
Greenhorns, Have you tried turning the IDLE SCREW IN to raise the IDLE? When it warms up does it stay idleing and at what RPMS?
Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Jan 3, 2010 0:12:01 GMT -5
Alleyoop
It wasn't so much that he wrecked the truck, as much as he was out driving around instead of just driving to & from work, & on top of that he lied to everyone + I knew nothing about him going any where else, until about 1 hour before he wrecked it.. He ran it into a 8' ditch & into the end of a small diameter culvert w/ the concrete ends, shoved the front wheels back about 4" & about 4" to the passenger side, says he was only doing 45 mph, YA RIGHT.. Well, w/ no truck, it looks like the BEAR could see more snow..
I'm going to try a #42 pilot to see if it picks up the mid range a little more.. Also if I put the new muffler on, I'll probably have to go through the whole jetting process all over again.. You figure this muffler is just under 1 3/8" open glass pack..
Need smooth out the idle, & sharpen the mid range a little more, & I think I'll be good.. The reason for the all the extra jets is 1: because of the muffler, & 2: because I have the 2 Longbo scoots that I'm going to be working on, if I ever get the BEAR off the table..
Yes, it seems to be running fair (a lot better then it was), it getting close.. Probably not doing much over 45 mph w/ the snow & ice, which adds a lot of drag + slick conditions, definitely no economy in those conditions..
I took out the 10gr weight & put the 11gr weights back in..
Man, I haven't ridden any recreational vehicle in this temperature in over 30 years..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Jan 3, 2010 0:35:53 GMT -5
Dwild62, Well you know kids, they are not going to tell you the truth of fear getting into more trouble than they are already:) I have two sons so I know, thank god they turned out to be good men and gentlemen with manners and have good wifes and jobs.
What is causing it to not idle smoothly do you know. It must be running to rich at idle if its idling rough.
I think you will like the 11G weights better, they should drop your RPMS down about 500-600 rpms.
Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Jan 3, 2010 2:10:51 GMT -5
Alleyoop
Ya, it might be to rich, I was going to try the #42, but my gut say #38 (or something between # 38 & #40). The mid range acts like it's lean, but the low range act like it rich.. See where it's low range seems good w/ the #40 & mixture screw at 1 3/8 turn out, which says the #40 is just on the rich side which is OK, accept that I had to turn mixture screw out to 2 1/2 to get throttle response off the idle.. Now the #40 might be a little rich for warm weather. But, what I may do is, leave the #40 in, & richen the needle.. But like I said something tells me that the #40 is going to be to much when weather gets warm. But on the other hand, if I'm changing the muffler, it really doesn't matter, because w/ the muffler change, everything else may change to, & may have to come up w/ a whole other combination anyways..
[glow=red,2,300]HAY, What is it?
It's a Snowmobile!!
It's a Jet Ski on Land!!
It's an ATV!!
NO!!
It's!!
It's!!
An IDIOT on a GY6 Powered SNOW SHOES!!![/glow]
Ya, I've got 3 sons, 18, 24, 25.. The youngest son is the one that wrecked the truck.. If it wasn't for his mother he'd have my foot up his butt, & out the door.. He Trashed every bicycle he ever had, he trashed his goped, he totaled his motorized bicycle that I built for him, he totaled his 4 wheeler, he totaled 3 of his cars/ truck, now he totaled my truck.. He totaled 2 vehicle in the last month!! Oh well, guess I don't to fix it, or put gas in the pig any more, maybe he did me a favor!!??
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Jan 3, 2010 2:38:15 GMT -5
Dwild62, Well I think raising the Needle Jet one or two slots will solve your mid-range problem. And the rough idle go down on the Pilot Jet to smooth out your idle looks like a #40 is to much for it at idle. How does it start with the #40?
Holy Cow, if my son had wrecked just two, he would not get another ride from me.
Alleyoop
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Post by "Big Guy" on Jan 3, 2010 2:57:03 GMT -5
...It wasn't so much that he wrecked the truck, as much as he was out driving around instead of just driving to & from work, & on top of that he lied to everyone + I knew nothing about him going any where else, until about 1 hour before he wrecked it.. He ran it into a 8' ditch & into the end of a small diameter culvert w/ the concrete ends, shoved the front wheels back about 4" & about 4" to the passenger side, says he was only doing 45 mph, YA RIGHT... I know this was not directed at me David, but I too have a problem child like yours, and I was one myself, being the youngest of 13. It makes me think back to something dear ole' Dad told me about 15 years ago that will stick with me forever and helps me with mine. He said, "Son, for all the problems you caused as a child, I have to say, I'm really proud of how turned out. I would have never thought I would look back at your antics and laugh, but here we are... it was all worth it." When my son calls me in trouble, and that happens a lot, I thank God he wasn't hurt and is able to come home with me. Hopefully he'll do like most other kids and grow up and someday you might have the same talk with him... I'm truly sorry your truck was wrecked, but I'm also happy he was uninjured... -Rich |
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Post by WildMan on Jan 3, 2010 10:53:04 GMT -5
Rich
You're Right & That's True... I thought the 2 oldest boys were bad, ya right, the youngest is a nightmare.. Yes, you're Right, the 2 oldest boys have developed into 2 great guys (which I though at the time I'd never say).. Son # 2 is working on his 7th year in the Army... I keep telling myself that son #3, he to will turn out fine, if he survives his young life...
Yes, I'm thankful he wasn't hurt, the truck isn't really that big of a deal, it was 19 years old & was in tough shape, & in need of serious chassis work, which I was debating on weather to do or not, was just trying to keep it going another year.. Besides the truck is just a possession.. I didn't drive it unless I really needed to, here's how much I drove it, the tires on it are like 8 years old, and probably would pass inspection another 8 years at that rate, well, if the side walls held up that long anyways..
Lots of snow up here, looks like we got another 18"..
Well good to hear from you Rich..
David Sr.
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Post by bpnwmike on Jan 4, 2010 14:08:15 GMT -5
bpnwmike, don't disagree with you, but when the company that makes the Keihin Carbs puts up a chart for the different carbs they make and chart the size jets that are supposed to be standard for each. Then you have to ask yourself why are the jets in the Keihin Carb that came with the product has different size jets. And quite a bit smaller than what they say is the standard size I might I add. Now it could be where they make them its hotter than an oven and the standard size specified by Keihin is to big. There are a number of different series of Keihin carbs for different applications. I know of at least 5 distinct series of "Keihin" jets for their carbs that are not interchangeable. I'm guessing that the ones that come with the larger jets are not the same carbs that are normally found in our vehicles. In any case, you still have to tune it to your vehicle, its unique setup, and your location. And jetting for your setup is fine, but NOBODY can tell you if you just change your filter to a free flow filter what jet you will need. The gambit on just changing the filter runs from 115-130 and I am talking about same product same environment same carb. So we are supposed to spend all that time and money trying every jet and wind up with one and the rest use as ornaments. Good for the seller not so good for the buyer, don't you think. Alleyoop I completely agree with what you say here. As I said before, everyone's situation is unique (environment, mods, etc) so there is not a one-size fits all solution - but generally we can get you in the ballpark so you're not completely stabbing in the dark. That's why I offer multiple jet sizes in my packages. Unfortunately, this can also mean that you need to try a variety of sizes until you find the right one. This is the reason I recommend people to NEVER gut their exhaust - all bets are off when it comes to recommended jetting because who knows how much you've increased the airflow? I do my best to recommend a pretty narrow range of jets to a customer when they give me the information regarding their setup and physical location. I know it's a pain to have to purchase the jets and swap them in and out/inspect spark plugs - but it's a critically important process for proper engine running. As for "good for the dealer" - well, some dealers maybe. Our profit margins on jets are not that great (and after free shipping, nonexistant if all you ordered was the jets). Check out the places all over the web selling jets for 50-100% more than I sell them for. Those guys are the ones making a killing on them. As always, the key is research: knowing what you're modding, how it affects your system, and ask those with experience (here on Scootdawg or elsewhere). Then, you'll hopefully be well armed with the information you need to make a purchase of exactly what you need. |
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Post by JR on Jan 4, 2010 18:02:22 GMT -5
Well spoken Mike and what one can do also is buy one of your sets that is probably too lean or right on the edge and drill and play, drill bits are cheap as David has shown can get a set good enough to drill brass with for under $20 that will do a lot of sizes! JRR
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Post by JR on Jan 4, 2010 19:00:21 GMT -5
...It wasn't so much that he wrecked the truck, as much as he was out driving around instead of just driving to & from work, & on top of that he lied to everyone + I knew nothing about him going any where else, until about 1 hour before he wrecked it.. He ran it into a 8' ditch & into the end of a small diameter culvert w/ the concrete ends, shoved the front wheels back about 4" & about 4" to the passenger side, says he was only doing 45 mph, YA RIGHT... I know this was not directed at me David, but I too have a problem child like yours, and I was one myself, being the youngest of 13. It makes me think back to something dear ole' Dad told me about 15 years ago that will stick with me forever and helps me with mine. He said, "Son, for all the problems you caused as a child, I have to say, I'm really proud of how turned out. I would have never thought I would look back at your antics and laugh, but here we are... it was all worth it." When my son calls me in trouble, and that happens a lot, I thank God he wasn't hurt and is able to come home with me. Hopefully he'll do like most other kids and grow up and someday you might have the same talk with him... I'm truly sorry your truck was wrecked, but I'm also happy he was uninjured... -Rich Ya know I was just thinking the other day about things like this!! So you was a problem child HUH?? Some how this came to mind; Can you say Black Sheep!! LOL LOL!! OK OK now we've all had a day or two like that but truthfully my crazy times as a kid kind of got overlooked at least a little! Now don't get me wrong when POP caught me messing up then it was ooooooh doggie bad news! But what helped me more than anything was I had 4 sisters and I was the oldest! (Couldn't get a word in edge wise!) So POP was so busy keeping all potential boyfriends off the front door that it kind of diverted attention off of me! LOL Man did I have fun with the potential boyfriends!! When they came to the house which was mandatory they met POP before they could take a sister out I would always piss one of my sisters off with my antics! The best one I ever came up with was the time I told this one guy that my dad hated guys with long hair and the next time one of my sisters showed up with what he called a long haired hippie he was going to shave his head!! I then laid my mom's hair electric hair clippers on the table along with a pair of scissors and a towel too! You should have seen the look on this guys face when my dad entered the room right by the clippers!! LOL That was over 40 years ago and my sister still hasn't forgiven me to this day!! LOL JRR |
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Post by WildMan on Jan 6, 2010 23:43:24 GMT -5
Hello Dawg's Here's my new $50. Glass Pack Muffler from Buggy Parts NW, replaces the stock exhaust.. Looks a little funny, I think it sound better than it looks, but I'll let you dawg's be the judge.. I'll try to get a sound file soon.. David Sr. |
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Post by als01seville on Jan 6, 2010 23:54:16 GMT -5
Dwild62, It looks a little fatter but the right length. Hey just noticed you need to oil up your chain, getting rusty looking from riding it in the 4 FEET OF SNOW:)
Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Jan 7, 2010 1:01:27 GMT -5
Alleyoop
Hay, I was wounding who would notice the drive chain!! I noticed it when I was working on the muffler.. I use chain lube, which is real light, so it won't stay on the outside of chain.. I only trickle it on the link pins, I don't actually spay it on the chain, cause it washes right off anyways.. Plus it lasts a long time that way..
I'm replacing the stock drive chain w/ a D.I.D. sealed O-ring chain..
The mounting brackets that are rusting I'll paint in the spring, my heated painting area is being temporarily occupied by my son, so I lost my only winter time painting area.. You probably know how that goes, KIDS!!
David Sr.
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Post by WildMan on Jan 7, 2010 21:26:24 GMT -5
OK Dawg's Here's the sound bit you've been waiting for.. Now, keep in mind there's a TV w/ CNN in the back ground, also you might hear a clicking or a clanking noise which is the rear brake pads.. 38mm Stainless Steel Filter Tube w/ 2 Stage Uni Filter, 22mm ID Head Pipe & 10" x 86mm Glass Pack w/ 38mm diameter Core, #38 Pilot Jet, #132 Main Jet, & Needle 1 Clip lean, Mixture Screw 2 1/4 turns open.. May need to go 1 more clip lean on the needle.. David Sr. |
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Post by "Big Guy" on Jan 7, 2010 21:44:07 GMT -5
David,
That sounds really well tuned! Nice idle, good clean bursts on the throttle and good smooth sound coming down as well; I'm impressed!
The exhaust sounds good too! ;D
-Rich
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Post by als01seville on Jan 7, 2010 23:05:38 GMT -5
Ok Guys whats the trick I click on it and I get NO SOUND or Picture?
Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Jan 8, 2010 0:23:33 GMT -5
Alleyoop
I don't know,, just click, works for me.. It's just a sound file..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Jan 8, 2010 2:40:00 GMT -5
Dwild62, Got it, my wife was playing a game on the computer and she lost the sound I had to reboot twice to get the sound back. SOUNDS BAD, I love the Idle sound. Also sounds like it has a lot more power, but you won't know until you actually take it for a spin to see how it acts with a load on it. You did a fine job David Sr. Now leave it alone for a little while and enjoy it and fine tune it if it needs it.
And you know me when you put up pictures I am checking everything and I noticed the rust on the chain right away:).
Alleyoop
Alleyoop
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Post by fleaboy2 on Jan 10, 2010 14:37:45 GMT -5
Hello Fellow Ice Bear Owners,
I will be getting my black PST150-11 in about a week and I am very excited! I tried one out at the factory in Acworth Georgia about 2-months ago and had to have one. I am totally ignorant on mechanics, but I have a good mechanic friend and I want to learn more with the Ice Bear. I have been watching this chat forum for a while and have really enjoyed seeing what everyone has achieved with their Trikes. I am going to take the advice of dwild62, also1seville, bpnmike, and others and try to get my trike in the best shape possible before I even run it. I’ve made a list of things that I plan to do first. If any of you have other advice on things I should do first, or sites that would be helpful I would greatly appreciate it!
1. Change out Chinese grease filled differential with US 6mm grease filled fitting.
2. Add 3rd mounting point to chain guard that utilizes muffler mount bolt and take off the 1/16 rear bracket and put on a 1/18 piece of GOOD metal.
3. Weather stripping on fenders.
4. Use washers & lock washers on body skin (120) and add thread locker to some nuts and bolts.
5. Exhaust clamp from global for muffler & make custom mounting bracket for muffler.
6. Put Iridum Plug and Performance coil in.
7. Replace variator with Racing Prodigy Variator.
8. Adjust drive cable to control shuddering in forward or reverse.
9. Look to change out slider weights (3-11s & 3-12s) and change jets as needed for increased HP.
10. Change oil to 10w-40 full synthetic. (Should I break in the Ice Bear with the oil it comes with or should I go synthetic off the bat?)
Any advice would be great!
Thanks
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Post by als01seville on Jan 10, 2010 14:55:38 GMT -5
Hi Fleaboy2, Great to have you as a TRIKER. On your list the only thing is DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OFF THE BAT to break it on until you have around 1000 miles on it then you can put in FULL SYN. But do change the oil, the oil that comes with it is cheap stuff, I put in 10w-40 Castrol GTX 10w-40 diesel, but you can put in any good american oil. And change it about every 200 miles or so. It will come out BLACK due to the parts wearing in.
Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Jan 10, 2010 17:54:15 GMT -5
fleaboy2 / Alley I to thought that it was best to have a break in period before using a Full Synthetic motor oil, but only because, that's what I've always been told, & it sounded reasonable.. But during this last year through a little research, I've learned that there were some myths float about.. So a couple of weeks ago I decided to research the subject even deeper so I got a hold of the people at Mobile 1, & asked about recommended break in period before using a full synthetic oil. They told me at Mobile 1 that stories like.. - Using a Full Synthetic before breaking in an engine, that the engine will always be tight and rings will never get properly seated, is a myth...
- Once you've put Full Synthetic in an engine, you can't go back, is also a myth...
There were more myths as well... Here's how I feel about motor oil.. There's many high quality oils on the market today, & yes some oils are recommended for certain applications over other oils, mostly because of weight & some because of detergents & other additives, & not because of quality.. Now, most cases the lighter the oil the better choice, provided it's w/ in it's curtain pressure design (example: motor oil vs. gear oil).. So when you real get down to it there is a pretty reasonable selection of oil, all w/ vary similar results.. In my opinion motor oil can cause Human stresses as well, for example, worrying of weather or not your engine is being properly cooled & lubricated, & or is your engine going to set up when you're driving down the hi way at 50 - 80 mph.. So I recommend a person to use an oil that you're comfortable w/ using.. An example of comfortable: I've always been a believer that in most cases Lighter oil is better than heavy oil, lighter oil is thinner so it gets into smaller areas than heavier oil.. Todays engines are built w/ higher precision, & smaller tolerances, so the light weight oils tend to do a better job of lubricating & cooling then w/ heavier oil, causing less friction / heat, also allowing for better fuel mileage as well.. Lighter oil tends to cool better as well, because it's lighter.. I'm vary comfortable w/ this theory.. I've used 10w-30, 10w-40, 15w-40, 20w-50 for many years.. I was less comfortable using recommended 5w-30, & it did add to my stress level, but I did get use to the idea.. So the point is, knowing a theory & trusting a theory can be two different thing, so use what you feel comfortable w/.. I'm now using Full Synthetic 0w-30 in the ICE BEAR, though I would be more comfortable using Full Synthetic 0w-40, but I can't find it in the 5 qt. jug which is cheaper than 1 qt bottles.. So to sum it up a little, Mobile 1 is saying you can use a Full Synthetic motor oil w/ out a break in period, & seems to recommend it.. I've also heard of a few scooter owners who have used Full Synthetic motor oil right from day one w/ no ill effects, & had many miles on there scoots.. So if you're comfortable use it, if not don't use it, one way or another as long as you have oil in it, it will get lubricated.. David Sr. |
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Post by als01seville on Jan 10, 2010 18:27:10 GMT -5
Dwild62, yes, use any oil you feel comfortable with. Just remember during break in you want to change your oil at close intervals say 200-300 miles until you break it in which most say its around 1000-1500 miles . And Full Syn runs on average about $5.00 a quart. So why spend all that money for intervals of 200-300 miles before changing the oil again when any other quality oil will do. And Scoot engines are not built to precise specs like car engines which have to last a long time. The oil manufacturers would rather sell you the most expensive stuff and not the least expensive stuff, its economics at work.
Alleyoop
Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Jan 10, 2010 21:35:04 GMT -5
Alleyoop
Ya no argument there.. The Chinese standards do have room for inprovement..
The Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w-30 costs $22.00 for a 5 qt. jug = $4.40 / qt., now the Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 0w-40, I can only find in qt. bottles which cost $6.99 / qt., quite a difference, that's why I choose the 0w-30 for now.. Which I feel will be sufficient, + I'm planing to add Jrr's oil cooler set up.. I believe the 2 together will be a good combination..
Also you can buy other brand of Full Synthetic 10w-30 & 10w-40 oil for $15.00 - $16.00 for 5 qt. jug = $3.20 / qt., which still costs a little more then conventional oil, but not a pocket buster for a GY6 engine..
I would like to add even despite my previous post, I still wouldn't be comfortable telling some one that they should use Full Synthetic oil for break in purposes, even despite what mobile 1 says.. I would still says it a matter of choice, & what the individual is comfortable w/.. I guess for some one asking w/ no knowledge of engines & oils, I would explain the benefits & draw backs, so the individual could be as informed as possible, to make their own decision..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Jan 10, 2010 21:56:19 GMT -5
Dwild62, got that right, let them choose which oil they want to put in there. Most all manuals say 15w-40 and the mechanic that put ours together uses Castrol GTX Diesel 15w-40 so thats what I used until I reached 1000 miles on mine then I switched to Castrol GTX 10w-40 Full Syn. But I will change it every 500 miles or so, good clean oil helps keep the engine cooler.
Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Jan 10, 2010 22:31:38 GMT -5
Alleyoop
You want to hear what my father does.. My father is a vary smart man, tool & die builder, machinist, model maker, CNC, & also a vary skilled mechanic as well.. He's so tight he squeaks at times, & some time I think it clouds his judgment at times. He doesn't exactly believe in all the mumbo jumbo from the motor oil companies & marketers.. I've actually seen him drain the oil from his vehicles & strain the oil through a paint strainer, drain the oil filter, put it back on, & pour the strained oil back into the engine, & run it for another 3,000 mile or so. On the next oil change he'll put on a new oil filter..
Now I guess I'm not much better, my pickup I've had maybe 6 years, & I've done 1 oil change on it.. Now my motorcycles get an oil change once a year weather they need it or not.. The scooters I've changed the oil a couple time in a season..
Now years ago my wife told me to change the oil in the car, so I show her the tools she needed, I show how to jack up a car & block it, also how to use ramps, instructed her what to do to change oil & oil filter, then I said if you want the oil changed in the car, you change it, I turned around & she was under the car changing the oil.. From that day forward she does just as much wrenching on the car as I have, & change the oil as soon as the computer say change oil, which is about every 3 months or 1 qt of oil.. This car is a 1999, we bought it in 1999, & it has almost 300,000 miles on it..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Jan 10, 2010 23:15:08 GMT -5
Dwild62, WOW!! your wife turns a wrench, damn, my wife doesn't know what a wrench is:)
And to change the oil, David Sr. you better throw her some bones:) And thats true about the old timers, they used every trick and new all the tricks cause most of them did all the mechanics and fixing up everything themselves.
Never had a car with 300,000 miles on it. Right now I have 75,000 on the 01 and the other 98 has 65,000. But my wifes we put about 1500 a year, mine about 2500-3000 a year.
Alleyoop
Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Jan 11, 2010 0:18:08 GMT -5
Alleyoop
Yep, she'll get her fingers greasy too. Heck, when I was driving truck over the road, when I got home for my home time, I walked in the house to see that she installed a hardwood floor in the kitchen, w/ out hurting herself I might add.. Both my wife & I were raised to do for yourself everything you can do, & only hire for what you absolutely can not do or can not learn to do yourself...
David Sr.
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Post by fleaboy2 on Jan 11, 2010 11:24:55 GMT -5
Thanks so much for the thorough advice Alley and David Sr. (use what you feel comfortable w/..) It was funny you said this David Sr. because I didn’t feel comfortable even when I said full synthetic off the bat. After all the advice I just can’t come to the conclusion to start the break-in on the trike with full synthetic so I will probably use 10w-40 or 10w30 regular oil every 200 miles for the first 1,000 miles and then I will go to a synthetic oil after that. I tend to believe like David Sr. that the lighter weight oils are better for cooling and lubricating these smaller engines. I don’t feel as comfortable with 15w-40, and this may be a dumb question but why did the mechanic use 15w-40 (diesel) on your trike Alley?, and thanks for welcoming me to the group Alley.
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Post by WildMan on Jan 11, 2010 13:22:30 GMT -5
fleaboy2
I'm modifying my muffler mounting bracket a little more, to make it even more solid, so stay tuned..
As far as the 15w-40 diesel oil, if I remember right, they figure it has more cleaning detergents, I think, something like that.. The manufacturers say to use 15w-40 oil.. But, keep in mind the Chinese don't have the same quality of oil as we do, (or so they say), & some mechanics & dealers don't argue w/ those recommendations.. Several dealers & mechanic believe 10w-40 is the best choice. My Longbo dealer believed that 5w-30 was the best choice.. I took it upon myself to switch to 0w-30 Full Synthetic as being a good choice, because it's suppose to exceed the quality of 5w-30 & 10w-30 oil, + the racing industry is using 0w-30 & 40, which tell me it should be good quality oil.. Although the auto racing industry is for the most part water cooled engines vs. air cooled.. So really all these variables have to be considered as well.. I'm a believer that for motorcycle engines, air cooled in particular, the 40 series oils are the best choice of any weight, for instance, 0w-40, 5w-40 (if there's such oil, I'm not sure if there's a 5w-40 or not), 10w-40.. Like I said, they all have vary similar results, so use what you're comfortable w/. I guess w/ out being experts in the science of motor oils, that's really the best we can do.. Like I said everybody seems to have their own opinion about motor oil.. So, they're ether all right, or maybe they're all wrong, I don't really know, you tell me..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Jan 11, 2010 22:10:03 GMT -5
Fleaboy2, The 15w-40 like Dwild62 said has more deterent in it to clean things up. You will notice when you change it the oil at around 200 miles it will be PITCH BLACK. And the other reason the mechanic used that weight is because the manual says to use that weight. Now if their cheap oil over in china takes 15w-40 then our 15w-40 is a better quality oil and if its good for diesels which require better oil then why not for break in.
Alleyoop
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