|
Post by WildMan on Oct 13, 2009 20:59:18 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by JR on Oct 13, 2009 21:15:22 GMT -5
No NO I was just using that as a picture and an example!! LOL I have the prodigy variator but I did cut the shaft down shorter! Again I was just using this as an example of what I was saying! If the shaft is the same length then it would not make sense for them to send shims with their kit which is what they do! On the DR. Pulley kit they send shims and the middle shaft where they do not with the prodigy! JRR
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 14, 2009 1:01:53 GMT -5
Hi Troops, Ok, here is the real poop on the Dr. Pulley Variator PIN. Me and Michael from Buggypartsnw solved the mystery. Michael was very curious about this as I was. Because if it was shorter than mine I would order it in a minute. Michael opened the 150cc Dr. Pulley package and measured the Bushing it is 2 1/32 inches in length. I went into the garage and took off the Variator on my Trike and the bushing on mine is also 2 1/32 inches long. As for the Shims I guess they figure if you don't like the narrower angle on both Variators you can shim the outside pulley to open it up a little more for the belt. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 14, 2009 1:10:30 GMT -5
The Turbo Fan is cool looking but even if it works I can just see everything being sucked in, leaves, dirt etc.. Looks like a 1lb coffe can with a fan:) Tell you what Dwild62 you put it on, heck I tryed the 750.19.5.28 belt which didn't do squat:) Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 14, 2009 1:36:54 GMT -5
If anyone has a spare Variator Bushing for a 150cc CY6 Short Case and want to get rid of it l will buy it from you. I do not want spend $100.00 dollars for another Variator package just to use the bushing and have it milled down about 1/16 and then find out I don't like it or it doesn't work as expected. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by WildMan on Oct 14, 2009 10:20:11 GMT -5
als01seville If you don't find a Dawg to sell you one, you could buy a stock variator for the bushing, it's actually called a "Boss". I've seen stock Variators for as little as $25.00 new. Or check around, maybe go to the link below, send him a message or even a back yard scooter shop, they may have spares form worn out variators.. Here's a link to a guy in Texas that I've bought stuff from.. I bought a stock variator from him earlier this year, though I see the price went up a little. www.blujay.com/?page=ad&adid=1773024&cat=14220200
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 14, 2009 18:54:57 GMT -5
Dwild62, Thanks, I will try him, I wouldn't mind paying that much and I will try and find stock stuff that comes with the Boss. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 15, 2009 15:42:27 GMT -5
Well I found a site that sells Individual parts. I ordered the Variator Boss (bushing, sleeve) it was $6.99 plus shipping(for a total of $16.03), as you can see shipping was more than the part:) But thats better putting out for a package which I don't need. As a matter of fact I have a brand new Orignal Variator and Fan with 10.5g weights that Ice Bear sent me. So I will have the Boss shortened by 1/16 or 3/32 and see if my belt will reach the top of the Variator with the 12g weights. The place I found the individua parst is Scooterdomain.com. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by JR on Oct 15, 2009 16:45:55 GMT -5
All right now we can put the spice with the pudding!! JRR
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 15, 2009 16:59:17 GMT -5
Hi Jrryan, And it better work or your going to have PUDDING on your face:) What do you think I should take off 3/32 or 1/16. Now remember I have to pay for the shortening!!! Now currently as you saw with the markings its about 1/8 left on it. Give me your best shot.
And by the way got my muffler back today all welded up. I put it back on and it is nice and it sounds like when new. It also helped with my Idle I used to have to tweak the throttle open a little until it warmed up a little. Now It stays idleing and idles smoother and at a lower Rpm. Must be that the leaking caused me to loose backpressure and thats why it wouldn't idle right until it warmed up a little about a minute.
Also today my Performance Coil and Iridum Plugs arrived so I have to put those on as well. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 15, 2009 17:07:19 GMT -5
Hi Troops, I have emailed Dr. Pulley and asked them about their Dr. Pulley Package and WHY the SHIMS? If they respond I will post their answer. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by WildMan on Oct 17, 2009 0:27:18 GMT -5
als01seville Hay man, you've got to post some pics!! I like to see how your muffler turned out..
Your BEAR has 12" rear tires? My BEAR has 10" rear tires..
How about your Chain guard, how's it holding up? Mine broke twice now, I welded & repainted once now I've got to weld it again. By the way, what's the deal w/ the chain guard being on the under side of chain any how? Seems like it should be on the top side of chain, or both top & bottom.. I don't know, maybe I'll leave it off. I'd like to replace the stock drive chain, w/ a sealed O-ring chain..
Oh ya, does your BEAR have a 4 valve head or the 2 valve head? Mine has a 4 valve head.
When I was out testing weights today, I had three times I had the BEAR on 2 wheels, & not the rear 2 ether!! ;D ;D
David Sr.
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 17, 2009 1:10:41 GMT -5
Hi Dwidl62, My Trike has 10" rims just like yours. The chain guard is still on mine and my brother-in laws trike. I guess the only reason they have it on the bottom is for little rocks flying up and hitting the chain. How did it break though, did you hit something or did you loose the screw at the back. The one on the front holding screws into the engine case and its a long screw. But the back screw thats holding the back of the chain guard was loose. If you tigthen it too much it will break. If it breaks on me I will have the guy weld a thicker piece on both ends and then it will not break.
Be carefull David Sr. don't flip the Trike over you will kill yourself. Remember its a Trike and they are NOT Drag Racers:)
I checked the specs on your Trike and they say 8.5 HP at 7500 rpms and it comes in at 397lbs without rider, mine is 353lbs without rider and 8.5 HP at 7500 Rpms so they say the same thing. Do you have different specs for your Trike? Have you moded the Trike other than the Variator and weights?
I don't know if I have 4 valve head or 2 valve head how can I tell which one I have. Its been raining around here for the last two days and Tomorrow as well. But I will take a picture of the muffler tomorrow and post it.
Is your speedometer mechanical or electronic, mine is mechanical and its very accurate. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by WildMan on Oct 17, 2009 10:17:30 GMT -5
als01seville The specs I see for PST150-9 & PST150-H trikes, shows having 205/30-12.. I know we can get the 12", might make some difference in top speed. I guess it depends on the site.
My dash (speedo) is all digital. It should be accurate, but that doesn't mean that is, it can only be as accurate as the sensor.. I'll clock it, some time, but my main concern has been to get it broke in & CVT tuned the best I can get, & work the bugs out, before snow flies..
No, no other mods at this point.. Trust me I do see the speed difference between our BEARS, & feel you're questioning the difference, & understandably so.. I to, am questioning the difference.. I won't be surprised if the GPS proves my speedo to be off some. I'm expecting to see it off maybe 5 mph. We'll see, & I'll keep you posted..
As far as the chain guard breakage & pivot point, I beg to differ w/ you, the only reason for the pivot point, is so you can roll the the rear end to adjust the chain, that's the only time the chain guard moves.. When the rear end is lock down, everything is solid to the swing frame, so theres no movement there.. My guard broke where it mounts to gear box, most likely vibration, & maybe recycled chino-steel. It looks to me like it needs to be mounted at three points instead of 2, I may add the third mounting point to it sometime today..
4 valve head.. If you look up at the right side of valve cover, the 4 valve, valve cover will look some what like a backward "C" or a sideway "U" shape (like a dip on the right side). The 2 valve head, will have a valve cover shaped like a back ward D, right side is more rounded..
Now back to the 250cc trikes I told you I seen.. Well, I found the sight. It was the ICE BEAR site. It appears the PST-9 & PST-H both are available in both the 150cc & 250cc.. & next year 2010 is the 300cc..
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 17, 2009 14:34:42 GMT -5
HI Dwild62, The Ice Bear site says 150/250 but they do not have the 250, they never made it or got it, only the 150cc. I have a very good repour with them and I order parts directly from them. They have treated me and my brother-in law extremely well. Heck they sent me a complete New Axle which by the way is like yours NO COTTER PIN so it must have the Two Spacer washers like yours, they sent me a New Cvt Cover, New Variator & Fan with 10.5g weights and the Cup for the Rope puller all under warranty all I had to pay was for shipping $46.00. And yes they are showing that a 300cc is coming next year, It will be intersted to see the specs on that one if they change the rear axle and maybe widen it as well and or bigger rims in back etc..
Oh and your right just about every site says 12" rims in back when they are really 10" rims:)
And yes keep me posted on your speed. I will be VERY Jealous if your speeds are accurate:) Ride save my friend. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 17, 2009 21:06:20 GMT -5
Hi Troops, Question: When is the best time to change the Spark Plug:
1. When the engine is HOT 2. When the engine is Cold 3. When the engine is Warm
I do not want to take a chance stripping the threads taking it out. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by WildMan on Oct 17, 2009 22:14:12 GMT -5
als01seville If the threads in the head are in good shape it shouldn't matter. But, warm is good, because spark plug hole will expand slightly.. I just went through this w/ my BEAR, made me mad too !! I went to turn out the spark plug & it would only come part way out, so I turned it back in a little, then tried to turn it back out, but then it didn't turn out as far as the first time, so I repeated this procedure 1 more time, this time it was even worse!! So I start engine & let run for a couple of minutes, just enough to warm the head a bit, then shut it down to repeat the spark plug removal process again.. That was enough to free the plug, but the damage was already done, part of the threads in the head came out w/ the plug. Thankfully I was able to clean the threads w/ another plug & some oil.. I got a new plug in & got it to tighten up, so I can still ride for now.. But I'm afraid it'll have to come apart to be repaired.. I'm waiting for Scooter Dynasty to get back to me on a discount price (no way to prove that I didn't cause the problem, but are will to give it to me at a discount) for a new 4 valve head. But I found some 10mm spark plug thread repair kits, so I may just repair this one, depending on what kind of price they quote me for a new head.. By the way, did you look to see what head you have yet? Right now I'm fixing my chain guard, I add a third mounting point. I'm putting the paint on now, & I'll have pics shortly..
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 18, 2009 0:13:37 GMT -5
Hi Dwild62, Bummer on the problem taking out the Spark Plug. But the Trike is new, you shouldn't be having to change the plug so soon. I got a performance Coil and Iridium Spark Plug I want to install thats why I was asking when is the best time to install a Spark Plug on these engines. I have not checked what Head I have it has a Black Plastic cover on it? Do I have to take the Plastic off to see what head I have? And why do they put those things on anyway? Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by WildMan on Oct 18, 2009 3:09:55 GMT -5
als01seville The reason I wanted to take spark Plug out, was so I could check the color of plug for air fuel mixture. Definitely a bummer, but not a real difficult repair, it's getting around to do it..
You don't need to take anything off to see what head you have.. The black plastic you see a air shroud, there's a blower fan on the flywheel that blows air, the black plastic shroud holds & directs air around head & cylinder to keep it cool..
If you look up under the trike, you'll see the valve cover that sticks out through the front of that black plastic air shroud, that I just explain about. Looking up at that valve cover on the right side. Looking at the right side of that valve cover, if it's shaped like a backward D, it's a 2 valve head, or if the right side of valve has a dip in it like a sideways U, then you a 4 valve head..
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 18, 2009 3:31:41 GMT -5
Dwild62, Great, thats easy enough I will check it out. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by WildMan on Oct 26, 2009 3:03:16 GMT -5
Alleyoop Can you post a pic of your air filter, so I can see filter & how you have it located in the BEAR? PLEASE!! I'd like to purchase a BIG SHOT air intake, & I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to do this.. It's designed to install on 2 wheel GY6 scoots, but the BEAR's have the swing frame.. David Sr.
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 26, 2009 5:15:48 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by WildMan on Oct 26, 2009 12:16:58 GMT -5
Hey Alleyoop I thought you installed a Free Flow Filter on the BEAR? Here's what I'm looking to install on the bear. shop.dragoncustom.com/images/1215978011571377154970.jpeg But trying to figure out how much trouble it'll be to do, & where I want it, such as putting it straight back (if there's room for it & swing frame movement) or out to the left side.. I sent an email requesting dimensions..
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 26, 2009 12:40:09 GMT -5
Hi Dwild62, WOW! that is a huge Free Flow Filter. There is not much room by the CVT I do not think it will fit but holy smokes is that thing huge:)
My Trike is Stock except for the Prodigy Variator and Fan. I just installed 13g Prodigy Slider weights. It rained all night and its wet outside and looks like more rain. So I just went around the block to make sure the Variator will not come loose. Right off the Bat You can tell that the Sliders are very smooth taking off and throttleing up.
I have the Variator marked and hopefully the weather will break and I can crank it up and see if there is any differencea in RPMS and Top Speed.
Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Oct 27, 2009 14:56:26 GMT -5
Hi Troops, Well here is the poop on my Science Project. Cut down boss by 1/16, Racing Variator, 13g Sliders. I have to say I do like the Sliders from start to full throttle its a smooth experience. The Sliders get you up to speed quicker and I loose about 2mph going up hill holding the same RPMs. I gained about 1/2mph faster and the RPMS amazingley stayed the same as with the 12gram weights, so I am a happy camper.
So with Sliders you can use heavier weights and not loose to many RPMS. You could still see the mark left on the Variator but it was a little less than with the 12g roller weights. I think I will leave it as is and enjoy riding the few more good days left and next year I can putts some more. I think I will order 12G Sliders and that shoud get me around 7000-7200 Rpms at WOT. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by kenb6656 on Oct 28, 2009 13:39:45 GMT -5
Well I picked up my Ice Bear PST150-11 trike on Monday, I have about 60 klics on it now. It only broke down 2 times, and the chain gaurd boke on the way home. The first break down was when I stopped for gas at about 16 klics, it was dead when I tried to leave gas station, found that the battery was laying near the bottom of storage area and both cables were loose, the fuse had popped, installed new fuse tightened up cables, and put battery back where it belongs, screwed cover in place, lets see how long it stays there. The second was later that evening we went to dinner when leaving the battery was dead, we got to try out the rope starter. Rode 1 mile home restarted fine, started the next day too. It was too windy yesterday to take it out, too much flying debris. I have not decided if I am happy with my purchase yet.
|
|
|
Post by WildMan on Nov 7, 2009 8:59:33 GMT -5
Alleyoop I know this doesn't seem like it would cause your problem, but did you try taking out that shortened boss & put the original boss back in?? I think you should, because that was a major change made before the problem. Also, maybe you should take your clutch out & take it apart & clean it..
How much shorter was the new boss before you had it shortened? Was it the shorter boss, then had that shortened, or was it the same length & had it shortened? By shortening the boss, there might've been enough added belt wear, that maybe it gummed up the clutch, & it could be dragging..
Also, are the variator weights free? Is the variator backing plate free & able to freely slide on the stays? Is the variator free on the boss, & can slide the full length of the boss? Have you cleaned the weight ramps?
Lastly, have you tried switching back to the roller weight? So far, I haven't had any luck w/ the slide weights working properly. For some reason the slide weights seem to hang up for me.. I'm going to try the sliders again when I change the Contra Spring in the clutch..
David Sr.
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Nov 7, 2009 11:07:54 GMT -5
Dwild62, The boss was the orginal length and had it shorten. I took the variator out and used degreaser on everything, the weights, the bins the weights go in the face plates the boss and I also opened the back clutch pulley and degreased that as well. I also used the belt stuff to clean the belt as well and put it all back together. I also took out the Sliders and even tried 11Gram rollers in there which would have put me around 7500 rpms. I also tried 12Gram rollers same thing. So currently I have the 12G Sliders which I was hopeing to get to around 7100-7300 rpms which would be near my max rpms 7500. This morning i even took off the welded muffler thinking maybe its blocked and its not letting it breath and backing up and put on the new one, but that didn't help. Maybe the rings are shot due to the time gas got in my oil and I am loosing compression. It is really weird, its like thats the limit of the engines power no stumbling or missing or backfireing or nothing it gets to 6000-6100 or so and thats all.
If it was slipping or something like that the engine would still get up the rpms but my speed would be less due to the slipping. Even if its not throwing the weights out the rpms would still climb just my speed would suffer. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Nov 12, 2009 23:50:43 GMT -5
Hi Troops, well tonight I changed over to a new brand new OEM small Variator and 115mm Fan that they sent me with 10.5 gram rollers. But I put in 11gram rollers that they sent me with the Prodigy Variator. I marked the Variator just for the heck of it and tomorrow I will take a test run and see if there is any difference with the rpms. With the orginal small Variator and 11gram weights it should be well over 7000 rpms because when I got the Trike it had 10gram rollers and I could get it to 8100 rpms. With this setup, if the Variator pushs all the way out the belt should be at the very top. I put the belt in and closed the variator as far as it could possible go which is against the Variator fan and the top of the belt is at the very top of the Variator. Alleyoop
|
|
|
Post by als01seville on Nov 13, 2009 12:07:38 GMT -5
Hi Troops, GOOD NEWS THIS MORING!!!! YEAAAA!! Like I mentioned earlier in the post Last night I put in the orginal Smaller Variator with 11g rollers. Just came back from my test ride and that sucker is screaming at 7800 RPMS, not much speed but remember I was worried about the RPMS only reaching 6000-6100. So now I have to check out the Prodigy what happened with the Prodigy? The only other thing is did was also chanaged out the filter I had made and put in the orginal one which I had cleaned and also I had to re-adjust the air/fuel mixture. Alleyoop
|
|