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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 14, 2011 17:54:15 GMT -5
sandss115, "from the lower part of the bike up into the seat assembly I noticed a frayed wire." The wires that go to the harness in the seat connect the brake-light, turn signals and tipover switch. Could it be the wire that goes to the tip over switch? I.E. Bike will turnover but won't start if it thinks it is tipped over. I had one trailer trip for that, it wasn't the wire..the tipover switch was slightly tipped over, I could get the bike to start if I leaned it to the right a bit but not straight up or to the left back in the garage. As far as the battery..I have a 12 BS - 12 volts - 12 Amps. A 9 BS is 12 volts - 9 Amp.(Actually 8) If you add up all the stuff that is on when you hit the starter button 50 watt headlight - 4 amps 25 watt brakelight - 2 amps Plus ECU + Fuel Pump there isn't much of 9 Amps left.
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Post by sandss115 on Oct 15, 2011 23:05:52 GMT -5
Thanks Harry. Yeah I meant 12 amps as opposed to 8 amps (instead of volts). But anyway, hadn't thought about the tip over switch. I decided just to pick up another battery anyway since the one I had was a bit under sized for the job, as you mention above. Got a 12-BS and squeezed it into the hole and it fired right up. Also replaced the tail light with an LED. Took it for about an 8-10 mile ride, parked it, killed it, then cranked it right back up with no problem. Looks like it's all good.
Couple of other things though:
1.) In looking for the LED number I came across a post about a new seat that will accomodate taller riders a little better and I'm wondering if that ever came through and if it will fit our bike.
2.) I had mentioned the "FI" light coming on pretty frequently. Well, after hooking up the battery and fixing the cut wire I mentioned a couple of posts ago, I was interested to see if that would have any affect on the light issue. I was trying to watch it and it didn't seem to come on at all until I hit a pretty good bump. It has seemed, kind of, to do that before so I don't know if something's getting moved around and setting off a sensor or what. I'll keep an eye on that one.
Harry thanks for all the help and i'm really interested in finding out about that seat.
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Post by sandss115 on Oct 17, 2011 19:33:39 GMT -5
Everybody has expressed an interest in a taller windscreen so I thought I would share a website - www.bikescreen.com - Gustafsson Plastics, Inc. I sent an email asking if they had a screen for our scooter and if not could they make one. Expectedly, they didn't have a screen but said they could make one if I sent them my original. Cost was estimated at $100-$150. I haven't responded yet but it sounds interesting. |
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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 18, 2011 10:15:43 GMT -5
Thanks sandsss115...higher windscreen sounds interesting.
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Post by sandss115 on Oct 18, 2011 16:06:35 GMT -5
Well, I'm completely discouraged. I thought I had my scooter problems pegged with installing the LED tail light and installing a 12BS battery but I think I've got some major trouble.
I left this morning for a planned day of work riding my scooter. The first appointment was way out in the sticks off a forest service road, gravel of course, and I arrived there just fine. Turned the scooter off and then- because I'm paranoid now about it cranking- I turned it back on and tried to crank. It would turn over but not fast enough to crank. Well, I needed to do my appraisal inspection so I spent about a half hour doing that and then came back to the scooter to try it once more before calling my wife. This time when I put the key in and turn it on nothing showed up on the dash at all. That sucker was dead as a hammer.
I assumed I had sapped the battery so badly that it didn't have enough juice to even get the basic electronics up.
Anyway, I eventually trailered it home and just assumed the battery needed charging so I took it out but before charging I checked it just to see if it was completely dead and it was reading 12.29 volts!! That sucker should be cranking with that kind of juice and the dash won't even light up!! I hooked it back up real quick and tried it again but, nothing, nothing on the dash is working at all and it certainly won't crank.
I noticed some corrosion on the negative battery terminal which shouldn't be there as I just installed this battery on Saturday afternoon and made sure they were clean. Thought that might be part of the problem but I scraped it off and no luck, same problem.
I'm charging the battery and I'll try it once more but it looks like a trip to the shop is in my future.
Steve
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Post by sandss115 on Oct 19, 2011 15:20:34 GMT -5
Charged the battery, hooked it up, turned the key and ........ nothing. The dashboard won't even light up. The battery is showing fully charged so I figure I've got one of the following problems:
1.) Disconnected, loose, or shorted wire.
2.) Fried computer.
3.) Bad saftey switch or fuse between battery and rest of system
Yesterday after arriving at my destination and turning off the bike I turned it back on and it tried to start but wasn't turning fast enough to start. 30 minutes later when I turned the key on again I had absolutely nothing, the LCD on the dash isn't even coming up. The battery was still showing 12.29 amps, more than enough to power everything. Seems to me that's a short or just total disconnect, hence, the list above.
I'll break out my handy-dandy service manual and start tracing wires to see what I can find.
The road I was on yesterday was extremely bumpy and even though I was taking it VERY slowly I wonder if something didn't get shook loose somewhere.
Any ideas are welcome at this point.
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Post by sandss115 on Oct 20, 2011 8:36:09 GMT -5
Pulled out the trusty shop manual and took a look at the electrical system. I started with the most obvious, the main fuse, and lo and behold, it was blown. Changed it out and scooter cranked and ran fine. Now I've got to figure out why it blew. Of course, I'm feeling REAL confident about riding the scooter more than half a mile at this point!!
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Post by jeffreyhunter117 on Oct 20, 2011 14:56:56 GMT -5
Pulled out the trusty shop manual and took a look at the electrical system. I started with the most obvious, the main fuse, and lo and behold, it was blown. Changed it out and scooter cranked and ran fine. Now I've got to figure out why it blew. Of course, I'm feeling REAL confident about riding the scooter more than half a mile at this point!! glad you got it figured out! i had overheating problems that me or a mechanic couldnt solve  , so unfortunatley i ended up having to get rid of mine.  very eye catching scoot, good luck with yours and safe riding  |
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Post by CCProf on Oct 25, 2011 6:29:28 GMT -5
I haven't been on for awhile due to moving. I definitely like a higher windscreen.
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Post by sandss115 on Oct 26, 2011 14:39:05 GMT -5
Just great. Rode the scoot for the first time for an extended ride of probably 20-25 miles with several stops. Scoot died twice but cranked right back up. Then it died just as i was pulling back into it's parking place here at home. When I tried to crank it up again, sounded like the battery wasn't strong enough to crank it and kept getting slower and slower. I am beyond frustrated with this thing. I need to check the battery and see what kind of juice it's got.
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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 26, 2011 17:25:56 GMT -5
Just great. Rode the scoot for the first time for an extended ride of probably 20-25 miles with several stops. Scoot died twice but cranked right back up. Have you verified you tip-over switch is vertical and tight? Other then that I would suspect an intermittant short based on previous your previous comments. Wireing is a pain. |
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Post by sandss115 on Oct 27, 2011 11:27:49 GMT -5
Harry, I checked it last time I had the "hood" up because you had mentioned it and it seemed to be fine, best I could tell. As I've made quite evident I know next to nothing about this stuff so I'm wondering how the tip-over switch would allow it to turn over but not crank and how it would deplete the battery. If the tip-over switch is the activated for whatever reason would it allow the engine to turn over?
I did check the battery yesterday and it was showing 11.35 volts so it's obviously down.
I'll check the tip-over switch really well again. The short makes sense to me since the main fuse was blown (before) but I'm totally lost as to how to go about figuring that out. First I guess just try and see if there are any breaks anywhere.
Also, what about a problem with the charging system? Since I was able to drive it a short distance, then crank it and drive 20-25 miles and THEN it wouldn't crank? Could it be the charging system isn't able to keep the battery charged quite enough to replenish the battery?
Here's a likely stupid question. When I'm putting my meter on the battery I'm checking for volts. Should I be/can you check for amps being put out by the battery and if so how?
Thanks for the suggestions, I do appreciate it.
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Post by harrywr2 on Oct 27, 2011 13:39:42 GMT -5
If the tip-over switch is the activated for whatever reason would it allow the engine to turn over? Yep...the kill and tipover switches disable spark or fuel. The starter solenoid is wired thru the ignition, brake and kick stand switches. The ECU won't be happy at 11.35...no ECU = no spark. You need to test the voltage on the battery when the bike is off and when running. The voltage when the bike is running should be higher. I had a stuck brake light switch on one of my bikes...the more I drove it the worse the battery got. The charging system is not power-full enough to keep the battery charged with the brake-light on 100% of the time. The stock battery sizing tells me the Korean engineers didn't take into account 'always on' headlights when they removed the headlight 'on-off' switch to comply with US laws. <i> When I'm putting my meter on the battery I'm checking for volts. Should I be/can you check for amps being put out by the battery and if so how?</i> On my meter I just turn the selector dial to 'Amps'  |
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Post by fixi1958 on Nov 3, 2011 18:22:12 GMT -5
harrywr2,
I just purchased a 2008 United Motors XPEED 250i and I noticed that you mentioned in your post that your bike has a high performance exhaust on it. 1 1/2 inch diameter? Can you tell me where you got this exhaust? I have been trying to find a high performance exhaust for my bike. On the web for days!! No luck.
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Post by bobbyb on Nov 4, 2011 13:00:04 GMT -5
fixi
When I bought mine, I did the same as you. I found zero aftermarket parts avaiilable for this scoot. So, I just gave up and enjoy it the way it is. The stock exhaust is tuned for this engine. Probably why it's 25 horsepower. Don't monkey around with this engine, you mess something up and it's gonna cost you to repair it. It's a "leave it alone" engine. Do the scheduled maintenance and thats all. Just sayin. You can tweak the rollers in the variator, but thats about it.
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Post by harrywr2 on Nov 4, 2011 14:00:15 GMT -5
harrywr2, I just purchased a 2008 United Motors XPEED 250i and I noticed that you mentioned in your post that your bike has a high performance exhaust on it. The stock exhaust on my X-Speed is louder then my other bikes by a large margin. I personally don't think any improvement can be made. As scooter exhausts go it is probably about as 'performance' as one can get. |
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Post by Trancebear on Dec 11, 2011 10:58:46 GMT -5
Well I am back seeing this is the only active forum talking about our scooters. I bought mine uber cheap as it needed a new stator, rectifier, starter gear and thermostat. Ordered all the parts from Hyosungsource.com for a reasonable price and finally installed everything yesterday. It runs perfect and drives awesome. Total investment for the scooter and all parts needed is under $1,000. Not bad at all, much better than my crappy GT6-150 Chino scooter. I do have an issue that I need addressed. The LED turn signals both front and rear do not work. The ones on the mirrors and the ones attached to the rear fender work fine. Would this be the relay has gone bad? Also the oil light stays on. I checked the oil pressure and it is fine, would this be the pressure sensor? FYI, about obtaining oil filters. Hi-Flo part number HF-197 fits out scooter and you can find them for $4-5 online. Found out certain Vespas use our filter, love pissing my Vespa snob friends with this info. Today I install my new Michelin tires I got on cyber Monday from Bike Bandit.com and try and get the signals working and hopefully some riding. Should be 50-60 and sunny here in Denver. I installed my 46L T-box yesterday and it looks great, I will wire it today for brake light operation.  |
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Post by harrywr2 on Dec 11, 2011 11:55:32 GMT -5
I do have an issue that I need addressed. The LED turn signals both front and rear do not work. On US models the reflectors that look like LED turns signal are decorative reflectors. No bulbs and not wired in. NHTSA has a lot of 'rules' that apply to turn signals. Hence, US models end up with the ugly lollipops for turnsignals. Hyosung source can get you the 'real korean' LED turns signals. The front ones replace easily and there is a couple of unused plugs prewired to the turn signal switch. On the rear, getting the 'reflector' out of the body takes some patience. The wiring harness supports either the lollipops or the 'korean turnsignals'. Congrats on getting the bike up and running and thanks for the tip on oil filters. |
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Post by Trancebear on Dec 11, 2011 12:06:22 GMT -5
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Post by harrywr2 on Dec 11, 2011 12:44:12 GMT -5
Oil pressure light could be bad sensor, bad filter or bad pump.
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Post by roboscoot on Dec 11, 2011 15:01:03 GMT -5
yes i have the same exact (even color)....apears black in shade but actually deep blue in sun light.....i have also used the hi-flo filters ...work great....good luck with it....
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Post by bobbyb on Dec 11, 2011 15:50:09 GMT -5
trancebear
Hit up jeffreyhunter. He has a set of factory front and rear LED turn signals for sale. He ordered them and never installed them. I think he sold the scoot and is stuck with them.
Glad u got the scoot running. I love the sh!t out of mine. Best $2000 i ever spent.
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Post by Trancebear on Dec 11, 2011 19:07:06 GMT -5
Did a max out run on the HWY today, had a hard time hitting 65mph and the max was 67mph on a straight. The RPM's are only 6000-6200 at that speed. I need some lighter sliders very soon. I weigh 360lbs and every scooter I have owned I needed lighter sliders.
Found out my fan does not turn on. I am going to check the relay for that also. This scooter had an electrical fire so I am quickly finding out why I got it so cheap..lol. I love working on them so no biggie.
Oil pressure is fine and swapped oil filters so gonna order the oil sending unit from superscooterparts.com. It is like $14 plus the $14 each for the relays, still not that bad.
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Post by bobbyb on Dec 11, 2011 21:51:08 GMT -5
trancebear
I put heavier rollers in mine to get my RPM DOWN. You should have enough horsepower to pull your weight, and you should be able to tach to the redline. I'm guessin of course as i only weigh 170 lbs. These scooters use 20 x 17 rollers. If i remember i'm running 17 gram rollers.
My fan turns on when it has been running three bars for a while. Just an FYI.
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Post by hakuin on Dec 11, 2011 21:51:32 GMT -5
I like the trunk box you have there, TB. Its the only way to go for me as well. Mine has no brake lights, though.
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Post by Trancebear on Dec 11, 2011 22:18:36 GMT -5
trancebear I put heavier rollers in mine to get my RPM DOWN. You should have enough horsepower to pull your weight, and you should be able to tach to the redline. I'm guessin of course as i only weigh 170 lbs. These scooters use 20 x 17 rollers. If i remember i'm running 17 gram rollers. My fan turns on when it has been running three bars for a while. Just an FYI. Smaller sliders will get me those extra RPM's. I do have the HP, just need to dial it in to higher top end. I am going to weigh the stock ones tomorrow and go from there. Rumor has it the stock ones are 17g. I accidently let mine get to 4-5 bars and still no fan so I am sure the fan does not turn on. |
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Post by leo on Dec 11, 2011 22:21:42 GMT -5
I do have an issue that I need addressed. The LED turn signals both front and rear do not work. The ones on the mirrors and the ones attached to the rear fender work fine. Would this be the relay has gone bad? there are only 3 possibilities. 1. you missed a connection somewhere or 2. you have the LEDs connected backwards. or 3. the LED circuit is improperly wired. |
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Post by bobbyb on Dec 11, 2011 23:40:19 GMT -5
leo
His LED's are nonexistent. The LED turn signals are for non USA market. Our scoots have lollipop style to pass DOT. They are available by special order only. Hope this helps.
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Post by Trancebear on Dec 12, 2011 0:12:08 GMT -5
leo His LED's are nonexistent. The LED turn signals are for non USA market. Our scoots have lollipop style to pass DOT. They are available by special order only. Hope this helps. I got that earlier..lol. Sometimes people forget to read the previous posts. I am not going to change them right now. I want to get the CVT dialed in first and get my new Michelins installed along with the other issues I have with this scooter. As long as I keep it under 40mph and moving she doesn't overheat. |
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Post by Trancebear on Dec 12, 2011 0:16:07 GMT -5
I like the trunk box you have there, TB. Its the only way to go for me as well. Mine has no brake lights, though. The small light towards the top of the box is what lights up, the long wrap-around light in the center is a $70 option, right now it is just a reflector now. |
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, so unfortunatley i ended up having to get rid of mine. 
very eye catching scoot, good luck with yours and safe riding 
