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Post by schoei1 on Jul 7, 2008 16:52:11 GMT -5
I have purchased a new GY6 engine from Ebay and received it in the mail today. It includes a new 24mm carb, new starter, new CDI and a new ignition coil with it. Everything looks very well packaged and will be installing the new engine on Saturday. For over a year now, I have been using a Keihin 30mm carb and am thinking about using the new 24mm carb with re-jetting. This weekend, I will post pictures of the engine swap.   Quite a different looking ignition coil  |
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Post by earlwb on Jul 7, 2008 17:10:39 GMT -5
Looking good.
What happened to your old engine?
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Post by mopargod on Jul 7, 2008 17:29:48 GMT -5
Where did you get it and do they have rear disc brake engines?
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 7, 2008 17:32:40 GMT -5
The original engine had a major oil leak because I over tightened one of the right-side bolts on the head, and it broke off with thread side inside the engine. So, I replaced it with a used engine, fixed the first engine by drilling out the bolt and re-threading, and then sold it to someone in need of one a couple of month later. Now I have a new problem with the used engine, and will not be able to fix without the engine removed. Two parts inside the engine, have vibrated off and now are sitting inside the engine somewhere, only waiting to cause a catastrophe. So, I need to find them, before they do create problems. I figured, instead of not having transportation while I fix the problem, I will install a new engine and have a back-up like before.
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 7, 2008 17:43:41 GMT -5
Where did you get it and do they have rear disc brake engines? I bought it from T-Motorsports on ebay, and I also have a rear disk brake. gy6rocket purchased the same motor and I asked him the same question. He said: "All I did was remove the pads, springs and cam mechanism. After I did that it was identical to my disk brake setup."gy6rocket, I hope it doesn't bother you that am posting one of your quotes, if so I will remove it. |
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Post by mopargod on Jul 7, 2008 18:57:09 GMT -5
Are there motors available that are bored and hot rodded?
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Post by earlwb on Jul 7, 2008 20:43:21 GMT -5
That is a Bummer on the parts that fell off inside. But I think you have the right idea on correcting the problem.
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 8, 2008 6:09:48 GMT -5
Thanks Earl and photos will follow. Are there motors available that are bored and hot rodded? Not that I know of, but you could ask them. |
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Post by YellowScooter on Jul 8, 2008 9:08:18 GMT -5
Are there motors available that are bored and hot rodded? has GY6s that he can customize to order. If I make this bike my project, I'm getting one with a 12 coil stator, thru mike.  I may just keep any modding to bolt on attachments, and leave under the cylinder head stuff alone. Reliability issues tend to crop up once the guts are messed with. A free flow induction/exhaust system, and a HP CDI/coil with a little timing advancment, along with some upgearing and spring/roller manipulation will get a Tank Sporty 150 Euro or an Eagle 150cc to pin down it's clock. You won't want much more from these little scoots. Even with a set of balanced speed rated tires. |
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Post by gy6rocket on Jul 8, 2008 21:41:20 GMT -5
Sweet! Yup that's the same mill I bought, great engine so far, just turned 500 miles on it. Starts up cold in the morning with just the touch of the start button and has never stalled on me once. I recommend the 24mm carb with a 40 pilot and 120 main, it works very well with the KMracing exhaust which I believe you also have. Hey if you buy a UNI filter we have identical setups!
The only thing that didn't work was the regulator, I had to buy the 7 pin from parts for scooters. because the engine comes with an 11 coil stator. I also replaced the rollers in the variator with 11g and the engine responded well, it revs a bit more but it has really helped with acceleration as the engine rev's are higher as the gear ratio increases keeping it in the sweet spot of the powerband.
Looking forward to seeing the install take lots of pics!
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Post by studebakersteve on Jul 10, 2008 13:27:56 GMT -5
I AM TRYING TO FIND OUT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE ENGINE YOU BOUGHT AND THE LIFAN OFFERED FOR $100 MORE. LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES ON REAR BRAKE DRUM TO DISC. MY TANK 150CC TOURING ALSO HAS REAR DISC. CONGRATS!!! WILL FOLLOW YOUR THREAD ;D SORRY FOR CAPS  --JUST NOTICED IT.  THANKS STUDEBAKER |
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 12, 2008 8:43:12 GMT -5
UPDATE: I removed the engine last night and will be installing the new engine today. 1st: Removed the intake, the carb and the manifold  2nd: Unplugged the ignition coil, the battery ground wire and the Minitach wires from the head   3rd: Removed the exhaust  4th: Removed the brake  5th: Unplugged the starter wire from the solenoid   6th: Unplugged the stator wires   7th: Unbolted the engine from the frame, let it smoothly drop to the ground and rolled it away    As you can see, the removal of the engine is quite a simple stask and doesn't take very long. The next update will be the process of installing the new engine. |
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Post by IrnBru on Jul 12, 2008 9:07:37 GMT -5
Great engine removal pics.  |
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Post by swakk on Jul 12, 2008 17:13:15 GMT -5
their is no difference between motor with rear drum break and disc brake
you can mod one with disc to adapt drum (by adding an axel and a pivot ) and nothing to do to have the disc on a drum version
because the difference is on the rim and right swing arm
if you like to play you can have both by finding the brake pedal they do use in china to drive the drum and still use the lever to drive the disc
i did this for a friend
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 14, 2008 20:40:31 GMT -5
Thanks Volunteer!
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Post by IrnBru on Jul 14, 2008 20:54:26 GMT -5
You're welcome, I've learned a lot from your posts.  |
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Post by gy6rocket on Jul 14, 2008 20:59:26 GMT -5
lets see those installed pix  |
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 14, 2008 23:05:51 GMT -5
Update: Saturday morning I started the process of installing the new engine: 1st: Put the engine on the work bench and removed the drum brakes, to accommodate for my disk brakes    2nd: Opened the CVT to check the belt and installed new sliding roller weights. I am starting with 13g for the first 500 miles, and then switch to 12g    3rd: Attached the rear wheel and swing arm   4th: I Decided to downsize the carb from my 30mm Keihin to a new 24mm carb that came with the engine. I up-jetted the carb and used the 38mm pilot from the Keihin, and a 118 main jet.  5th: I placed the engine on the garage floor, rolled it under the scooter, lifted the head, held it in place and slid the bolt through the frame and engine. Once the bolt was through the other side of the frame, I screwed the nut on and then tightened the nut and bolt(was not able to take pictures during this process). Now that the engine was securely attached, I was ready for the next faze. |
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 14, 2008 23:07:35 GMT -5
6th: I attached the rear suspension, the exhaust and brand new brake caliper.    7th: I have been using an aluminum manifold for most of the life of the scooter, but liked the manifold that came attached to the engine, because the inner part of the manifold is actually aluminum. I decided to stick with it, and see how long it will last. So, I put the carb in place and arched it to the manifold, and this was so much easier than attaching the Keihin carb.  8th: I slid the air intake filter in, placed it on the back side of the carb and attached it securely to the CVT cover   9th: When connecting all the wires (auto choke, starter wires and the stator wires), I decided to install the new solenoid that came with the engine, but stuck with racing CDI and ignition coil. Even though the new engine came with a new CDI and ignition coil, I like what I already have, but will probably try out the new ignition coil, because mine is so dirty.    |
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 14, 2008 23:09:45 GMT -5
10th: The final thing before starting it up, was to change the engine oil and the gear oil. After finishing the last task, I opened the manual fuel valve, pumped the throttle amount five times, hit the starter and it fired-up on the first try. I adjusted the idle screw and, Oh how it purrs very quietly. ;D The idle is set at 2000, and it doesn’t even float up and down. Just smooth continual flow! I gave the throttle two small revs, and it sounds great.    I really wanted to give it a hard break-in, but realized I don’t have anywhere close to do it. The engine now has 28 miles on it since yesterday, but have just been cruising slow at 35mph and once going 48mph for about two blocks. Slowly this week, I am going to give it more and test it around 100 miles. Plus, that will include 2 oil changes and get a little of the internal metal debris. I am very please with how it runs, and quite amazed. My next post will tell a little more and include more changes I am going to make. |
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Post by isoulride on Jul 15, 2008 7:02:55 GMT -5
keep up the good work! I'm probably going to do the same thing in mine eventually. awesome pic btw |
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Post by isawhim on Jul 15, 2008 7:13:50 GMT -5
Where did you get that air-intake?
Is that just an exhaust from a foreign car, or something?
(Reminds me of those things people stick on a foreign-car, to make it look beefy at the tail-pipe... but the rest of the exhaust is as large as my scooter exhaust.)
I love that look, matching the exhaust on the other side.
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Post by gy6rocket on Jul 15, 2008 7:37:33 GMT -5
Looks really good schoei! I agree the Tmotorsports engine purrs, it runs better then my stock unit ever did. The only thing I see that concerns me is your carb is not seated fully in the intake manifold. You can see in this picture there are 2 small tabs on the black manifold, and one small aluminum tab on the carb. These should be lined up and interlocked. The carb should be about 1/4" further into the manifold. Just wanted to give you a heads up, it will run fine like you have it but will be prone to vibrate loose since the locking groove is not in place. Just went and took a pic of mine to show what I mean:  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Did you use your existing regulator? How are those Dr Pulley sliders? I am thinking about ordering the 12G version of them to try out. |
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 15, 2008 16:07:29 GMT -5
Where did you get that air-intake? Is that just an exhaust from a foreign car, or something? (Reminds me of those things people stick on a foreign-car, to make it look beefy at the tail-pipe... but the rest of the exhaust is as large as my scooter exhaust.) I love that look, matching the exhaust on the other side. The air filter is a Big Shot Air Intake made by Dragon Custom. I had gone through many different air filters to try and protect it from rain, but did not have any success. Finally I found the the Dragon Custom and it works perfect. Many times on my way home from work, I got caught in the rain, and the water was going through the filter and into the carb. I even had to carry extra filters and replace while on the road, because I would loose major power on a 55mph 2-lane road, and not sure if I was going to make it home. Link: shop.dragoncustom.com/main.sc |
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 15, 2008 16:19:57 GMT -5
Looks really good schoei! I agree the Tmotorsports engine purrs, it runs better then my stock unit ever did. The only thing I see that concerns me is your carb is not seated fully in the intake manifold. You can see in this picture there are 2 small tabs on the black manifold, and one small aluminum tab on the carb. These should be lined up and interlocked. The carb should be about 1/4" further into the manifold. Just wanted to give you a heads up, it will run fine like you have it but will be prone to vibrate loose since the locking groove is not in place. Just went and took a pic of mine to show what I mean: --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Did you use your existing regulator? How are those Dr Pulley sliders? I am thinking about ordering the 12G version of them to try out. Thanks rocket! I noticed that myself and corrected the problem. Although it wasn't that easy sliding the carb all-the-way in, it is even better reassurance that the manifold is much better than a stock one. And yes, I did stick with my stock regulator and my brand new battery is getting fully drained after riding 5 miles @ 35mph. But, I did have this problem before I installed the new engine, and have not figured out what is draining the battery. The new battery I purchased, came fully filled and charged through the mailed (isn't that illegal?), but may have got a bad one. It looks like I am going to have to trace all wire connections, but I must say, I am not an electrical guy and this will not be an easy task for me. Thanks again, and enjoy your sccot rides! |
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 15, 2008 20:55:43 GMT -5
Well, I have found an electrical problem and maybe that could be a culprit of the draining of the battery. The electric start does not work, and don't even get a click when pressing the start button. So, I am not sure if this is just the starter switch or have anything to do with my rear brake. After replacing the rear caliper this weekend, and bleeding the brakes for well over an hour, there is still no pressure at all. Now I know that the rear brake must be squeezed for the starter to work, but I am not sure if the no response from the brake would have anything to do with the starter not working. I checked the wires with the starter switch and they look fine. So, my first guess is the starter switch has finally come to the end of it's life, but really not sure because I am not great with electric components.
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Post by earlwb on Jul 15, 2008 21:07:52 GMT -5
The brake switch is typically a cheap tubular like thing mounted on the handlebar underneath so that the brake lever can move it. It sort of works like the tip on a ball point pen with a couple of metal contacts.
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 15, 2008 21:47:17 GMT -5
Thanks Earl! I'll take a look at it, and see if it is causing the starting problem.
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Post by gy6rocket on Jul 15, 2008 21:55:55 GMT -5
Just a FYI I had to swap to a 7 pin regulator to make the swap work because it has an 11 coil stator. (high output)
The wires coming from the stator should be 3 yellow and 1 green, I can walk you through it, spent many hours getting mine sorted out.
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 16, 2008 6:02:58 GMT -5
Just a FYI I had to swap to a 7 pin regulator to make the swap work because it has an 11 coil stator. (high output) The wires coming from the stator should be 3 yellow and 1 green, I can walk you through it, spent many hours getting mine sorted out. Thanks rocket! Did you have to do this because the stock regulator can not handle the high output and start draining the battery and/or other parts? I wish I didn't get off line so quickly last night, but I was falling asleep. I won't be able to get back on line until 5pm today, when I get home from work. My work system is down for over a week now, so I will send you a PM later. Thanks again. BTW: While checking my electrical connections last night, I decided to install my new halogen lights.  |
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--JUST NOTICED IT. 
THANKS STUDEBAKER
