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Post by gy6rocket on Jul 16, 2008 7:43:45 GMT -5
The most likely cause of your battery dying is that the 4 pin regulator does not work with the 11 coil stator. The 11 coil is 3phase while the others are monophase. It sort of works but will only put out about 8vdc since your essentially cutting out a bank of coils by hooking up the 4 pin regulator to it. This is the regulator you need: www.partsforscooters.com/Regulator_7pin_GY6?sc=9&category=603It takes a little bit of rewiring but once setup dumps 14v at idle and 16v at full rev into your battery. I have not had my battery even go below 90% charge since I hooked this up. You can also run HID lamps after the conversion is complete, something that is not possible with the lesser electrical systems Good thing is that the 11 coil is pure honda stuff, so its known to be reliable and true. Since the 7 pin comes with no wiring diagram I spent hours researching and looking at older honda wiring diagrams that use this type of stator and finally mapped the pinouts correctly.
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Post by capnfred on Jul 16, 2008 16:28:35 GMT -5
just out of curiosity what vibrated loose and fell into the engine....we may beable to check our scoots before that happens to us.. great pics, nice job... good looking scoot. will throw you a bone or two...
Capn
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 16, 2008 17:14:15 GMT -5
The most likely cause of your battery dying is that the 4 pin regulator does not work with the 11 coil stator. The 11 coil is 3phase while the others are monophase. It sort of works but will only put out about 8vdc since your essentially cutting out a bank of coils by hooking up the 4 pin regulator to it. This is the regulator you need: www.partsforscooters.com/Regulator_7pin_GY6?sc=9&category=603It takes a little bit of rewiring but once setup dumps 14v at idle and 16v at full rev into your battery. I have not had my battery even go below 90% charge since I hooked this up. You can also run HID lamps after the conversion is complete, something that is not possible with the lesser electrical systems Good thing is that the 11 coil is pure honda stuff, so its known to be reliable and true. Since the 7 pin comes with no wiring diagram I spent hours researching and looking at older honda wiring diagrams that use this type of stator and finally mapped the pinouts correctly. Thanks so much rocket!! I purchased the 7-pin regulator and hopefully I will know by the end of the weekend. You definatly will get a bone from me, for all that work and passing on the info. Great work!
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 16, 2008 17:26:40 GMT -5
just out of curiosity what vibrated loose and fell into the engine....we may beable to check our scoots before that happens to us.. great pics, nice job... good looking scoot. will throw you a bone or two... Capn capnfred, The rocker arm bolt that sets the gap for the valves must have been loose and eventually vibrated off. It is probably sitting someware inside the shaft. The one other thing that had vibrated off, was the needle at the end of the oil dip stick. And that must be sitting inside the oil pan. Thanks for the compliments and the bone.
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 16, 2008 21:36:25 GMT -5
The brake switch is typically a cheap tubular like thing mounted on the handlebar underneath so that the brake lever can move it. It sort of works like the tip on a ball point pen with a couple of metal contacts. I took a look at the needle, it is moving up and down and still making the clicking sound. But, I still need to check the electrical connection to it. I did purchase a new start button for a couple of dollars today and am hoping it is not the starter. This weekend I am going to take the time to test everything, but luckily my kick start works fine. Thanks again Earl, and a dog bone to you for teaching me how that works!
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Post by swakk on Jul 17, 2008 6:50:05 GMT -5
you can try your electric start by bypassing the brake switch and / or the starter relay bypassing the relay if the starter doesn't turn check for loose / oxydised connector, ageing battery charge system failure or defective motor / oil leak inside the starter motor (it's common)
for your break calliper, often the mounting angle do not allow a good air bleeding, so you must remove it from the swing arm to change the angle to bleed it
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 17, 2008 19:37:00 GMT -5
Thanks swakk, that is very helpfully info and will report back with results.
Battery Update:
The first 70 miles I have been driving to work (3.5 miles each way) on 25 and 35mph roads. On the way home, is when my battery is fully drained. This evening, I drove on the 45-55mph road and was averaging about 50mph. For about 1 mile I was at 57mph and stopped at 2 stores (one each way). The total miles when I got back home was just a little over 7 miles(same distance to work and back), and all of my electrical had plenty of power. I checked the battery after the ride, and it read 12.1. It seems the battery will keep good power when the rpms are higher and it will get drained when only going slow. I will keep testing it before I receive the 7-pin regulator in the mail.
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 21, 2008 5:55:42 GMT -5
With my battery getting drained after only a few miles, I tested the battery to see if something was draining the battery while the scoot was not running, and the result was no. But, when I started the process of installing the 7-pin regulator, I found many wires that needed replacing, and that included wires to the original 5-pin regulator. Original 5-pin Regulator wires I also found the auto-choke wires that had been disconnected. So, I stopped the process of installing the 7-pin regulator, fixed all of wires that were needed and this solved all of my electric problems. The battery is now getting charged, and the electric starter is working again. But, I will probably go back to installing the 7-pin regulator this weekend, because I still don't know if the original regulator wires had gotten fried because of the 11-pin stator.
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Post by schoei1 on Jul 21, 2008 6:24:22 GMT -5
for your break calliper, often the mounting angle do not allow a good air bleeding, so you must remove it from the swing arm to change the angle to bleed it That was it! I removed the rear brake, did the bleeding with the angle at level and the pressure came instantly. Thanks swakk!
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Post by schoei1 on Aug 8, 2008 21:14:14 GMT -5
The electric start has gone almost completely dead. Yesterday, when leaving work, the electric start quickly started to loose power as-if the battery was going dead. But, all the lights had full power. Luckily, the kick start works great (first scooter engine, out of three, that has worked). So, this weekend I will be checking the wiring and test the starting switch with a new back-up I have. If the ending result ends up to be the actual starter motor, I will replace it with the one on my back-up engine, but that will be the last thing. I have put 400 miles on the new engine now, and will be doing my 4th oil change this weekend. This engine runs great and the spark plug is a beautiful brown, without having to make any changes since the day of installation one month ago!
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Post by schoei1 on Sept 1, 2008 8:14:09 GMT -5
The most likely cause of your battery dying is that the 4 pin regulator does not work with the 11 coil stator. The 11 coil is 3phase while the others are monophase. It sort of works but will only put out about 8vdc since your essentially cutting out a bank of coils by hooking up the 4 pin regulator to it. This is the regulator you need: www.partsforscooters.com/Regulator_7pin_GY6?sc=9&category=603It takes a little bit of rewiring but once setup dumps 14v at idle and 16v at full rev into your battery. I have not had my battery even go below 90% charge since I hooked this up. You can also run HID lamps after the conversion is complete, something that is not possible with the lesser electrical systems Good thing is that the 11 coil is pure honda stuff, so its known to be reliable and true. Since the 7 pin comes with no wiring diagram I spent hours researching and looking at older honda wiring diagrams that use this type of stator and finally mapped the pinouts correctly. gy6rocket, It finally time for me to install the 7-Pin regulator and was wondering if you could guide me through the wiring. STATOR WIRES: Does it matter which yellow wire goes to yellow wire? ENRICHER WIRES: Which would be the positive wire? IGNITION SWITCH: Is the red wire the positive? STOCK REGULATOR: Should I use any of these wires or just run wires straight to the stator wires? Thanks and very appreciative!
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Post by schoei1 on Sept 1, 2008 15:11:23 GMT -5
No luck today. I found a US electrical color code and this is how I wired the 7-pin regulator:
White Wire to Yellow Enricher Coil Black Wire to Red Ignition Switch Pink Wire to Red Battery Terminal Three Yellow to Three Yellow Stator Wires Green Wire to Green Stator Wire
The first three miles and had no problems. After going to a store, the power was fine, but when I got home after the second 3 miles, the battery was fully drained. Normally, with the 5-pin stock regulator, the battery would start to go low after 30 miles. It took only 6 miles today to fully drain the battery.
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Post by schoei1 on Sept 1, 2008 20:07:32 GMT -5
I found out that it was not a dead battery, but a blown fuse and think I found the culprit. I will have to do more testing in the next few days.
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Post by gy6rocket on Sept 1, 2008 20:42:19 GMT -5
gy6rocket, It finally time for me to install the 7-Pin regulator and was wondering if you could guide me through the wiring. STATOR WIRES: Does it matter which yellow wire goes to yellow wire? Nope, Just wire 3 yellow to 3 yellow, order does not matter, each makes approx 4 v ACENRICHER WIRES: Which would be the positive wire? Yellow is positive, Green is always ground on any circuit on the bike.IGNITION SWITCH: Is the red wire the positive? Yes it is, however the black is also positive, but the black is a "switched" positive. I wired it to the black wire so current would be shutoff when the ignition is off. This is a "voltage sensor" wire from what I read. STOCK REGULATOR: Should I use any of these wires or just run wires straight to the stator wires? I would rewire anything that looks to be deteriorating. Personally, yes I wired mine directly to the stator wires by making a custom harness clip. Thanks and very appreciative! No problem Man, hope this helps some, its a great system when its all wired up and done.Also for the record, I replaced my Fuse holder with a standard SAE blade type fuse holder with heavier gauge wire.
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Post by schoei1 on Sept 1, 2008 21:31:02 GMT -5
Thanks gy6rocket.
I was able to run my 55w Halogen lights after all the hook-up and finding the loose wire that caused the fuse to blow. The 7-Wire Regulator made all the power work correctly, evenly and far more power to the battery. The battery would only stay at 12.49v, but now it stays at 13.29v.
BTW: Did the same exact thing with my fuse last month. I Just like those fuse holders a lot better and it came with heavier wire.
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Post by schoei1 on Sept 7, 2008 19:01:12 GMT -5
After 900 miles on the new engine now, I haven't had to do any adjustments with this new engine. My original engine when I bought the scooter almost 2 years ago, the manifold cracked within 300 miles, and the valves needed to be adjusted. I am amazed how well this engine is running and holding-up. The only change I have made, is the weights. I am using a combination of 12 & 13 gram slider weights and will be changing them to all 12g. When I changed the weights at 800 miles, I was also amazed how clean the CVT was.
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Post by fastasssr20 on Sept 7, 2008 20:16:53 GMT -5
I have a quick question out of curiosity what is the difference between this engine you put in and the stock one that you took out other than the fact that the one you had was broken? Plus one bone for you for such a detailed post keep up the updates
fastasssr20
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Post by gy6rocket on Sept 8, 2008 21:05:28 GMT -5
I've been very impressed with this engine myself [have the same one] Its ran perfect since I got it with racing exhaust and UNI filter. My CVT was also very clean after 1000 miles. The difference with this engine seems to be that everything is high quality, best stator, good intake, nice carb, just overall a nice engine that makes good power with the standard mods. I have near the same setup as schoei and mine also tops out at 67mph Will be even closer now since I ordered the same new seat as him We always seem to buy the same parts at the same time, first was the KM racing exhaust. Glad we had each other for support waiting for it from Taiwan. Next was the T motorsports GY6, and now the new seat, which i just checked their site and it looks like they are getting ready to ship it out. Try some 11g weights if you really want a treat I am thinking about stepping up to 12 g DR Pulley sliders. Just to see how much they differ.
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Post by schoei1 on Sept 9, 2008 6:04:49 GMT -5
gy6rocket has put it very well; for, it just seems to be built far better and with better parts than my original engine. To not have to make any adjustments since installed, that just seems to be a rarity with a Chinese GY6 engine. Plus, as gy6rocket stated, the 11-coil Honda stator came installed and creates far more electrical power. To be able run HID lights, which he has installed in his scooter, is something that you can not do with a stock GY6 engine. Most scooters come installed with 18w bulbs, and can normally you can't go any higher than 35w. I am also using the rubber manifold that came with the engine, and is holding up very well. I actually have a couple brand new metal manifolds, but is not really needed. When doing the installation of the engine, I noticed that inside the the rubber manifold it is all metal, and that has to be the reason there hasn't been any cracks so far. Regarding the CVT, I noticed when changing the roller weights, that the belt was an 835 instead of a 842, which is also a rarity for a stock GY6 engine.
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Post by schoei1 on Nov 27, 2008 8:45:51 GMT -5
Well, I hit the 2,000 miles mark today and the amazing part is that I have still yet to open the engine. On the original stock engine, I had to adjust the valves around 500 miles, installed a 30mm Keihin carb, larger valves and a lot of playing with the engine. With this HP GY6 engine, I have kept everything stock as far as the engine and carb goes, and have not had any problems. I would normally think this is just getting lucky, but gy6rocket having the same engine and same "luck", I am going to buy another one to keep for the future.
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Post by gy6rocket on Nov 27, 2008 12:57:19 GMT -5
Mine is at 2200 miles and still running strong with no carb or valve adjustments. I am going to do the valves during my winter tear down. This GY6 was definitely a good buy!
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Post by scootdoggydog on Nov 27, 2008 13:09:35 GMT -5
good luck getting another one they dont sell that same motor anymore
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Post by eagle150 on Nov 29, 2008 1:26:18 GMT -5
Hey friend, here's a bone for all the good info and pix!
These are the kind of hands-on posts that really help us all when it comes time for repairs/upgrades! WELL DONE!
Also, that's a FINE looking scoot! Great wheels, nice chrome, unique exhaust/air-cleaner, etc. You have a lot of good work invested in it even before replacing the motor! When you get the little bugs in the electrics straightened out, you'll have one of the best rides going!
Stay safe, and enjoy the ride!
Leo in Texas
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Post by schoei1 on Nov 29, 2008 6:55:29 GMT -5
Thank you for the compliments and the bone Leo, I appreciate it all.
After installing the 7-pin regulator, my electrical problems were solved thanks to gy6rocket and all of the research he did on where the wires should be connected.
Thanks again and scoot-on.
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Post by performancescoot on Nov 29, 2008 12:03:32 GMT -5
Nice write up! I deal with T-Motors often and can say that the bike they sell come with the same engine you bought and run great. Haven't had any problems at all with them.
Let me know if you would be interested in selling your 30mm carb and the heads off your old engines you replaced.
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Post by schoei1 on Nov 30, 2008 12:15:05 GMT -5
Thanks performancescoot. I have two different 30mm carbs. The one on the left is a Keihin and the one on the right is a Chinese. Send me a PM and I will also send a picture of the 59mm head.
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Post by phaze on Dec 3, 2008 19:01:37 GMT -5
good eye rocket,
schoei, good deal buddy way to get her done .
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Post by shookupart on Dec 17, 2008 23:30:16 GMT -5
HEY! I am new to scooters and scoot dawg. although the obsession has taken over in 5 short months. My name is jason and i just received the exact same motor from t.motorsports this morning and finished the swap a few hrs. ago. the reason why i swapped is i removed my old motor for this new one so i could still ride while i modify my old engine. the new engine runs great and what a deal!! I would reccomend t.motorsports to anyone!! my only problem is now my headlilghts barely work and I think it has something to do with the new wiring from stator on new motor. ? replaced 3 wire plug with 4 wire plug. my rebuild project is going to be fun... 63mm stroker plus the worked over cvt and final drive gear... all the good electrical as well. Im not trying to hi-jack your thread but some familiar echos came to mind as I was looking at the pics from your new install. nice pics and nice scooter! look forward to talking with you more... shookupart
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Post by scootdoggydog on Dec 18, 2008 1:56:50 GMT -5
HEY! I am new to scooters and scoot dawg. although the obsession has taken over in 5 short months. My name is jason and i just received the exact same motor from t.motorsports this morning and finished the swap a few hrs. ago. the reason why i swapped is i removed my old motor for this new one so i could still ride while i modify my old engine. the new engine runs great and what a deal!! I would reccomend t.motorsports to anyone!! my only problem is now my headlilghts barely work and I think it has something to do with the new wiring from stator on new motor. ? replaced 3 wire plug with 4 wire plug. my rebuild project is going to be fun... 63mm stroker plus the worked over cvt and final drive gear... all the good electrical as well. Im not trying to hi-jack your thread but some familiar echos came to mind as I was looking at the pics from your new install. nice pics and nice scooter! look forward to talking with you more... shookupart where did you find that engine cause thats the one i wanted to get but i could only find this one t-motorsports.com/product/150cc-gy6-scooter-atv-quad-go-kart-engine-motor-150-cvteggy6hn-150-l/
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Post by Riddick79 on Dec 18, 2008 4:57:48 GMT -5
Cool thread. The same engine came with my scoots that I bought from T-motorsports. I had a couple problems which were my fault with one of them, but it runs great after a slight rebuild.
By any chance, have you checked what your valves are set at? I adjusted both scoots to .005 then to .003 and they ticked at both settings. I should have just left them alone.
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