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Post by slowscootin07 on Aug 14, 2009 20:55:15 GMT -5
You'll probably have to call your dealer or Carter on that one. I don't even have a listing in my parts catalog because as you say, they're only on the US models. I'm sure you could get away with a generic one too. Either way, I'd bet you have to buy the assembly and not just the lens, but I could be wrong.
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Post by barnone on Aug 23, 2009 8:29:28 GMT -5
Jeff, Great video on the valve check/adjustment. Will you post it on symforum.com ? It sure would have helped me when I did mine. BTW, mine were in spec when I did the first check at 300 miles and am glad to hear that only one of yours needed a tweak at 4500 miles. As you said, these SYMs are first class.
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Post by slowscootin07 on Aug 23, 2009 21:07:06 GMT -5
It was actually at about 4300 and only one of the four needed it. You're totally right and these are well built machines to say the least. I posted the video in the HD section there
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Post by scosgt on Aug 24, 2009 17:07:27 GMT -5
Now here is another horn issue:
My horn started to sound muffled. So I opened up the front cover and it turns out the radiator hose, which has a rubber cover on that portion, was hitting the horn. I could adjust the horn downward a bit, but careful - it could hit the top of the right shock on a turn, that's an accident waiting to happen. So I would up using some wire ties to fasten the hose to the radiator mounting holes (it is open behind the sheet metal holes), Loosely of course, so as not to interfere with the cooling system. Just lifted the hose slightly and held it up out of the way.
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mishka
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 1
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Post by mishka on Aug 25, 2009 5:08:46 GMT -5
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Post by scosgt on Aug 25, 2009 8:57:32 GMT -5
Stop gloating
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gazoo
Junior Dawg
Posts: 7
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Post by gazoo on Sept 8, 2009 21:37:57 GMT -5
Tail/Brake Light and Modulator: The LED used for this light is a 60 LED radial and rear firing bulb. It is a SMT style (Surface Mount Technology) and has 48 radial LED’s and 12 rear firing ones. It’s an 1157 style, its coloring is red and let me tell you, is fills the lens with light very nicely. As written before, I have a modulator on the brake light and now it works way better than on the regular bulbs.
Jeff:
I purchased this LED and the light stayed on high full-time. The mechanic told me it was because the pins were offset, rather than 180 degrees apart. Did I get the wrong light or does it have to be modified/put in a specific way?
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Post by scosgt on Sept 9, 2009 18:59:06 GMT -5
I decided to put amber 194 bulbs in my marker lights. Looks really nice! I sent for high power LEDs to go in there, we'll see how it looks next week. I decided against white LED's because I think it is more noticable in the daytime, especially with the headlight modulator.
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Post by slowscootin07 on Sept 10, 2009 23:36:09 GMT -5
gazoo- It is possible to put a 1157 bulb in backwards but hard to do. the 1157 will have two contacts on the bottom and will have two tabs on the side of the bulb. The tabs will be at 180 degrees when looking at it from the top but one will be higher than the other when looking at it from the side.
It is simply plug and play with the bulb that matches the socket and it is an 1157 socket.
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gazoo
Junior Dawg
Posts: 7
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Post by gazoo on Sept 11, 2009 21:55:45 GMT -5
I think I figured out what happened. I ended up getting a 7225 brake/tail light instead of an 1157. That's why the tabs are not 180 degrees apart. Probably my bad. I'm re-ordering the right bulb.
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Post by slowscootin07 on Sept 11, 2009 23:18:26 GMT -5
The tabs really don't matter and don't control the lights, they just lock it in place. You had both of the bottom contacts touching the brake light contact in the socket, that's all. an 1157 is what you need and i'm glad you got it worked out
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Post by groovy on Sept 29, 2009 13:25:46 GMT -5
Jeff,
You previously mentioned that you were planning to create a video for changing the coolant on the Firedrake. Are you still going to make one?
Although winter is almost here, I've been holding off changing mine until your post about the hidden pitfalls and your work-arounds. From what I've read, it sounds like "burping" air out of the coolant lines will be the most difficult part.
Also, I'm wondering which brand/type of coolant is compatible with our scooter.
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Post by dangdawg on Sept 29, 2009 16:02:55 GMT -5
Groovy,
I too was waiting and waiting for Jeff to post a coolant changing video. I decided I couldn’t wait any longer and just jumped in and did it. It was surprisingly easy to do and the old coolant was surprisingly dirty. Had I known it was going to be so easy to do and was going to be so dirty I would have done it 6 months ago.
I “burped” it once when the engine wasn’t running and once when it was running. I didn’t have any overheating problems so obviously, I got the air out and it was quick and easy too and I am no mechanical guru.
My only alert is this: when I removed the drain plug the coolant started trickling out. Then I removed the radiator cap and the draining coolant went from a trickle to a sudden gush which blew way beyond my drain pan and all over the garage floor. Sorry, I don’t have any suggestions as to how to avoid the sudden gush, just letting you know it could happen.
I know the service manual is English as a second language, but you can figure it out if you read it a few times.
BTW I watched Jeff’s valve adjustment video before I adjusted my valves. It took me two attempts to get it right, but once I did get it right, it was almost like magic how it improved performance. My scoot now runs like brand new again. Thanks Jeff!
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Post by groovy on Sept 30, 2009 12:32:53 GMT -5
Thanks, dangdawg
I'll be tackling this project over the weekend. Which brand of antifreeze did you use?
And here's a bone for your response ---->
Thanks again,
Jim
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Post by dangdawg on Sept 30, 2009 13:09:46 GMT -5
Jim,
When I checked several months ago, my scooter store didn’t have any SYM specific coolant. I don’t think it really matters that much. I used Peak 50/50 pre mixed.
As I remember, I drained the overflow tank by removing the overflow hose next to the radiator cap. Pulled the hose out from behind the radiator and just let the old fluid drain into a pan.
Rick
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Post by groovy on Sept 30, 2009 15:53:24 GMT -5
Thanks, Rick. .....With your pointers, maybe I can keep myself from getting wet during this bit of maintenance! ;D
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gazoo
Junior Dawg
Posts: 7
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Post by gazoo on Dec 2, 2009 22:11:50 GMT -5
Way back in episode 5, Jeff listed his light bulb mods. One of those (actually, three of those) were the 194 style bulbs in the marker lights and the license plate light, where he substituted an inverted cone single diode type from www.v-leds.com. I tried them out. The definitely were distinct in contrast to the center headlight. However, I didn't think they were bright enough so I put the incandescents back in. I then searched the v-leds.com site and discovered a 5-led surface mount technology bulb that fired both radially and forward (model 194_5_SMT+W_5K) so I bought a pair. They are significantly brighter than the inverted cone bulbs while maintaining the contrasting color relative to the headlight. Definitely more expensive than the inverted cones ($9.99 per pair versus $1.99 per pair) but worth it, I think. Don't know if it will fit in the license plate socket but I'm less concerned about having rear-cagers read my license plate.
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Post by slowscootin07 on May 13, 2010 12:49:24 GMT -5
Hello again all, I have another installment on my ongoing review coming real soon, but wanted to pass on this bit of information first. I do apologize for the time since the last review, but I've been real busy and I promise to get one up ASAP.
Now for the bad news--Hello all, it's been a while since I've posted here but I wanted to let you guys and gals know of the situation. Pete (SYM rep)if you're still browsing here, then I'd suggest that you tell your bosses to get your F'n crap together over there and quit messing around. CVT belts have been on back order since December and as of today are still anywhere from 30-90 days away!!!! WTF!!!! This is a simple part and one of the disposable parts that are needed for this scooter. All local dealers can't help and Carter Brothers themselves have told me of the BS!!!! delay. If you're going to keep this belt proprietary and make it so no one else can get one but [you] then you'd better stock parts for what you sell. This is F'n ridiculous to say the least and I'm sitting on a 4,000 scooter that is useless because of Carter Brothers' slacking off. Yes I'm P!$$&* as are many others that I've talked to about this and I [we] want a F'n answer and not some BS backorder story.
Here's an idea--- Take the belts off the ones that aren't selling and sell them to those who already bought one and need the part and wait for your own backorder. Wait--- I'd guess you can't do that because you then won't have one to sell yet. Guess what??? who the "F" cares. Waiting SEVEN months for a simple part is pure insanity especially since this is a NON-WARRANTY part that every single SYM on the road will need. Quit smoking goofballs and get with the program called customer support. Many feel the same way I do but haven't said what they truly feel and I'm not one of those people. WE WANT ANSWERS AND WE WANT PARTS AND WE WANT THEM NOWWWWWWWWW.
I hope I didn't offend anyone here (except SYM/Carter reps)and I'm sure most of you know who I am and what i do to support fellow SYM owners. I will be posting this in all the scooter forums I belong to and contacting every single person, company, writer, et al that have reviewed SYM products in regards to this utter and complete BS.
Sincerely Jeff aka slowscootin07/The Fire Drake
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Post by oldf on May 14, 2010 4:51:34 GMT -5
Jeff
Do you have the numbers for this so called proprietary belt?
Just take them and the belt to a local industrial parts supplier They should have no problem cross referencing it.
I will bet you a dollar to a donut you end up with a belt that's better than what SYM uses.
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Post by anhoa on May 14, 2010 9:07:18 GMT -5
You can measure the belt's dimensions and look for Gates or Bando for a replacement. Why do you have to wait for months when you can do it in couple days?
Anhoa
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Post by flyangler on May 14, 2010 13:10:31 GMT -5
At any rate Jeff it's good to see you posting here again,I see your posts on the SYM forum once in a while.
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Post by slowscootin07 on May 14, 2010 17:16:36 GMT -5
It's a unique sized belt which is only made by Bando for SYM. The size is about 930-19-28 for what it's worth. I've ordered one made for a Big Ruckus which is told by a very very reputable source to work well if not a bit better.
See above and also The Gates Belt I ordered is a 906-22-30 and cost 27 delivered. If it works like it's supposed to then I'm game and will be a testing guinea pig. If the belt only lasts 1/3 as long, then I'll still be ahead of the 71 plus shipping for the belt that's nowhere to be found.
Thanks. I'm still thoroughly happy with this scooter and at over 5700 miles haven't had to do anything except fluids and one valve adjustment of the four at about 4200 miles. I'll try to stick around a bit more and do have a decent review coming up.
Jeff
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Post by oldf on May 14, 2010 18:22:28 GMT -5
Jeff If its a Gates it far better than anything Bando makes. And I am speaking from 30 years as general maintenance tech I replace a Bando belt on a Tomas 150 built by sym with a cross referenced Gates set me back 21 dollars. It was even marked on the belt for motorcycle use. So I think you will be in for a pleasant surprise.
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Post by slowscootin07 on May 14, 2010 22:52:31 GMT -5
I know what you mean oldf. The cogged generator belt for my old Evinrude costs 39.00 at a "boat store." I matched one up at CarQuest for 7.00. It's a Gates and as it turns out is a timing belt for many types of heavy fabrication machinery. Nonetheless the test belt is on the way
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Post by slowscootin07 on Jun 12, 2010 19:57:33 GMT -5
OK guys and gals, here are the results of the 906-22.5-30 belt that I tried on my HD200 a week ago. I installed the 906-22.5-30 belt on The Drake. Bottom line is that it works but... It was a pain to install because it's obviously shorter than the OEM 930 and at 22.5mm, wider than the OEM 19. I cut the crap out of my finger and I could tell by the belt position that high gear would be a problem before I even started it up. I was only able to do a short test run because I'm still sick, but I do have a few preliminary results. Acceleration off the line: As expected, it was a big sluggish but not dead sluggish. On take off I could tell that the motor was straining a bit and 30-70 MPH was actually far better with acceleration. This tells me that the motor may be doing more RPM's, but the load on it is far less and it's kind of a 50/50. High RPM's and high load will be far more "damaging" than higher RPM's and a lighter load on the engine. To get an idea of the "load" I'm referring to think of a 10 speed bike going 10mph in first gear and also tenth gear. in first you're pedaling fast, but it's easy. in tenth, you're pedalling slower, but it's harder RPM's were definitely higher than normal and at 60 (56 actual) indicated I was pushing 9000 RPM's and power was still available--Not good since 9000 RPM's would normally get me to my 80-84 top end and I don't like pushing that for too long. This tells me that I'm not getting into high gear. I've marked the CVT and clutch and have before and after pictures shown below. As you can see by the marks, high gear is just not there and the motor get's "stuck in mid-range." Here are the RPM reports with the new belt 10MPH ----------about 3,000 RPMs 20MPH(19)-----about 4000 RPMs 30MPH(28)-----about 5200 RPMs 40MPH(37)-----about 6400 RPMs 50MPH(46.5)-----about 7500 RPMs 60MPH(56)-----about 8500 RPMS 70MPH(65)-----about 9500 RPM's 75MPH(70)-----about 10,500 RPM's YIKES!!! I did not push it further but I still did have more acceleration left Bottom line is that for an emergency belt, or for one that rides their HD at mid range speeds, this would be ideal. Anyone that does a lot of stop and go will be dissappointed and anyone that does a lot of 60mph+ speeds will be using a lot more gas and will be risking engine failure. Also if you didn't put on a no-rev CDI, then all you're going to get is about 60mph anyway. I definitely would suggest lighter weights to help with the off-line, but heavier rollers will make it more sluggy off the line and seriously doubt they'd do anything to lower the RPM's because the belt just doesn't have enough "play". I've found a 918-22.5-30 belt and that will help more with the slugginess and lower the RPM's more being a good inch longer belt, but the real bottom line is that the belt is just too wide and I don't hink the 918 will make that big of a difference, but I may try it out since it too is only about 25.00. The width is what's going to be the main issue as the 918 is only about ½" shorter of a belt whereas the 906 is a whole inch shorter than the 930 on the HD. Ironically enough, the more the belt wears down and stretches, the more power you'll get and the rpm's will lower at speeds. BTW--Here's a photo of the variator/ clutch holding tool I made for under $7.00 out of a 4.00 piece of steel from Home Depot and a few bolts, nuts and washers. I doubled it up thickness wise, but you can get away with a single thickness. earlwb here on the boards has a post on how to make your own. You'll also see the variator before and after pictures. VARIATOR BEFORE CLUTCH BEFORE VARIATOR AFTER CLUTCH AFTER VARIATOR TOOL As you can see in comparing the before and after pictures I was right. The clutch is not initially riding on the top of the bell, thus creating the bogging at take off but it does set almost all the way to the bottom (high gear on the clutch side.) Also, the variator is not reaching the bottom of the pulley at take off (belt too wide or too short) causing a bit of bogging at take off and it is not reaching the outer rim which is high gear on the variator side. As I predicted, the scooter is operating in mid gear pretty much all the time. Think of it as a 4 speed stickshift car that you start in second gear and you have a third gear, but not fourth. I need speeds of 65-70 on a continual basis so for me, this belt won't work "right." On the other hand, if I can figure out how to shave a few mm off the 918-22.5-30 belt, then that may be the key to a cheap replacement. I'm going to get the 918 belt and give that a try too and of course I'm going to have no other choice but to get an OEM SYM belt and one is on the way. Sorry to dissappoint you guys and gals, but again, the 906 belt does work, but not optimally. I Hope this helps answer some belt questions for HD200 owners and all who want to experiment with a different size belt. I'll be shooting a video or three since I also have rollers to replace and coolant to flush. (Sorry about the lack of the video last August. I filmed it, but my camcorder ate the tape when I was transfering the video. AAARGGHH. It's now it's time for a flush again.)I also had no choice but to get Dr. Pulley sliders since rollers of my size and weight are hard to come by and on back order everywhere. I did get them at a good price though at 30.00 shipped. Almost forgot-- New brake pads are on the way too and I'm going to flush the brake fluid too. Jeff
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Post by slowscootin07 on Jun 24, 2010 17:55:54 GMT -5
Hello all, I got a bonus package on Tuesday. 1) New OEM Bando belt. No, not from Carter, but on eBay for cheaper than Carter anyway at under 75 shipped. 2) New Dr. Pulley sliders 20x15 16 grams--(stock weight) Good luck finding rollers in this size. These were also cheaper at 30.40 shipped 3) New brake pads for the front-- sintered (I have to try them out) for 12.00 shipped Here are the videos on how to do it. I had to split them apart due to You Tube time constraints. It's pretty basic. I have yet to test them out and will do so soon, but let me first off say----BIGGG difference in the parking lot. Video one-- www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLmTPJc7k8IVideo two-- www.youtube.com/watch?v=B040g8lAGcwI'll have a brake pad replacement/bleed system video and a coolant flush video very soon. Enjoy---Jeff
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Post by ootscoot on Jun 24, 2010 18:18:34 GMT -5
Thanks for all your research Jeff - I am a SYM dealer having to deal with Carter Bros' complete lack of dealer support. When I contacted Eddie Lu at SYM - Taiwan, he recommended SYM Canada for parts! I have a few HD 200 riders with over 20,000 mi on their original belts - good thing they last so long, but I gotta find a source for these - I'll check ebay. -Any recommended ebay sellers for belts and brake pads?
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Post by slowscootin07 on Jun 26, 2010 12:38:34 GMT -5
Thanks for all your research Jeff - I am a SYM dealer having to deal with Carter Bros' complete lack of dealer support. When I contacted Eddie Lu at SYM - Taiwan, he recommended SYM Canada for parts! I have a few HD 200 riders with over 20,000 mi on their original belts - good thing they last so long, but I gotta find a source for these - I'll check ebay. -Any recommended ebay sellers for belts and brake pads? no problem oot-- When I contacted an overseas source in Europe, they told me there is no issue getting parts from them and they even forwarded my disdain to Taiwan SYM in which Eddie replied telling me the same thing about Canadian Motor Imports. I purchased the rollers from eBay --store Autotech355 stores.ebay.com/Autotech355-Performance-Parts and I purchased the pads and belt from scooterassasins stores.ebay.com/scooterassassinsinusThese pads are sintered and not organic. Organic pads are available in many places. Hope this helps
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Post by slowscootin07 on Oct 4, 2010 13:24:20 GMT -5
Hello all Here's installment 11 of my HD200 ongoing review. At almost 2 ½ years, I still have enjoyed this incredible machine every trouble-free bit of the 6800 miles I have on it. I just added four new videos for maintaining your own HD200 and may also apply to other scooters too. Included here is how to: 1)change your front brake pads 2)Change your crankcase oil 3)change your rear gear oil 4)adjust your rear drum brake These may seem like no-brainers, but I wanted to post them anyway since I have a few tips for you since I do this "crap" all day www.youtube.com/lansdrymanvideosAlso I'd like to ask you to watch "Lynn catches her first frog" It's a bit cheesey but it is a dedication to my sweetie and I wrote and played the musical piece for her. Comment there if you wish (hint hint) After riding with the sintered bronze pads for a while now, I must say i like them better than the OEM organic pads. They make less of a mess and definitely are better for wet and rainy conditions. I have noticed a squeak here and there, but otherwise they perform way better in all conditions, especially when heated up in stop and go traffic. It seems that they actually operate better when warmed up. The first few stops on a cold braking system in the now approaching cold Fall of Chicago take a bit longer to stop and they feel stiff, but after a few stops, they're fine--no BETTER than OEM. I haven't noticed any additional wear on the rotor and they're also ½ the price of the OEM Organics so I suggest you give them a try. I have a few more projects coming up too and I'll post them here after I do them. Till then- ride safe Jeff
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