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Post by dtwscooter on Apr 22, 2009 8:22:56 GMT -5
I second what leshassell said that it takes quite a while to prime the system to get the fuel flowing. When I took it out of storage past weekend, it took me a while to get it started.
Try kick starting it first - about 15 kicks. Keep the throttle closed during this process. Then use the electric starter. It should start to catch after 5 or so tries. Before each tries with electric starter, throttle 3 - 5 times to wide open, then press the starter button with throttle closed. This would deliver fuel quickly.
Normal starting would be different however, I just touch the start button and go.
I highly recommend that you re-jet yours from the get go. It will make starting and general running much better. Additionally your engine will run cooler and make more power. I used 40 and 115 for idle and main jets respectively.
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Post by benn on Apr 22, 2009 16:52:50 GMT -5
I just got mine running for the year as well. I replaced the battery with a powermax that I nabbed for about $40 on Amazon, changed the oil, and I swear it is running better than it did last year when it was brand new. Is there a good tutorial on rejetting these guys? I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing in that department.
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sza
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 2
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Post by sza on Apr 23, 2009 1:50:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies! I did like you guys said and was able to start it up for the first time earlier tonight. The problem might have been with that kick stand kill switch that leshassel mentioned, I'm not sure I had that up when I tried yesterday. I had to give it a little bit of gas with the throttle and it started with the kick start, but it seems that the idle needs to be adjusted because it kept dying if I let off the throttle. I was able to ride it around the block and I'm really just relieved that it actually worked.
dtwscooter, I'm going to attempt that re-jet as soon as I get a moment to figure out how to do that. I was reading the comments earlier in this thread and it seems like a good idea, I just want to make sure I know how to do it right before I start taking the carb apart.
Another thing I want to do is replace the hand grips like I saw someone else on this forum do (gotta find where to get them, though.) The metal hand grip actually seems a little loose on the throttle, I'm not sure if there should be that much of a loose wiggle when twisting on the throttle, if that makes sense. It didn't seem too bad but I'd still like to switch to a rubber grip.
buckybuck, thanks for that link, that looks like a good time! If I'm in town that weekend, I think I'll definitely try to go out for a lap on the speedway!
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Post by dtwscooter on Apr 23, 2009 10:44:36 GMT -5
sza, wpod has pictoral on how to rejet at the beginning of this thread. Once you take the seat out - easy - and have the plastic tray below the seat out - easy, you have full access to the carburator from which point you can follow wpod's pictures.
Besure to have the jets ready to go so you don't waste time putting things back. And you might well as replace the fuel filter and fuel lines while you have things apart.
After rejet you may have to adjust the mixture screw just little bit for optimum performance but that's fine tuning.
As for the grip, I went to sporting goods store and bought the leather/rubber like tennis racket grip wrap. It works really well and is easy to apply. Look for black color style with end tape, or use electrician's tape, to dress up the ends.
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Post by xingyue150broken on Apr 26, 2009 16:26:19 GMT -5
I have a xingyue ita 150 and man i'm stumped... i need help... it had 150 miles on it when i got it.. i road it about 100 miles going about 60 and blew an exhaust emission hose thing,... so i replaced it.. scooter seems to run ok... but now it wont go faster than 40 miles per hour. the rpms only go to 6,000.. what the hell is wrong. what should i do!!
seems to run fine.. but wont go over 40 and rpm stops at 6,000 tops
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Post by leshassell on Apr 28, 2009 0:50:55 GMT -5
Go back and read this whole thread... it'll truly enlighten you to all the subtle nuances of China rubber and it'll also give you a list of common things that need to be replaced pretty much right out of the box. If your performance went downhill immediately after replacing the hose, the first thing I'd check is to make sure I didn't accidently unplug or kink any fuel or vacuum lines. After that, its just troubleshooting... keep us updated with your findings along the way and more than likely someone can nail down an answer for you.
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Post by scooterbaby on Apr 28, 2009 19:23:36 GMT -5
Too bad I can't find chrome or aluminum floor mats for my Xingyue-
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Post by macademyduh on May 2, 2009 0:51:38 GMT -5
Hi Ive read through a lot of the posts on this thread gaining new info on the scooter, im picking up the Zingyue 150t 2008 gy6 used from someone local. Everything seems to be running well and currently has 400 miles on it in good operation. Im completely new to scooters so if anyone had a small list of things I should probably due upon getting it as far as cleaning any parts, recplacing or changing oil I would appreciate it. Or as far as this specific model any stock flaws that should be looked out for or parts replaced.
Also im not the smallest guy just wondering what cheap mods or tunes can be done to improve performance, possibly with acceleration.
Feel free to get back to me through email or thread (macademyduh@aim.com)
Thanks!
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Post by leshassell on May 2, 2009 23:12:03 GMT -5
Just follow the PDI and make sure everything is tight. If the fuel and vacuum hoses haven't been replaced thats pretty much the only thing I'd recommend to replace as a preemptive measure; everything else you can just fix when it breaks. Good luck!
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Post by jspringator on May 3, 2009 4:56:05 GMT -5
I would adjust the valves and make sure the exhaust bolts have been locktited.
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Post by dtwscooter on May 4, 2009 11:39:53 GMT -5
I've made up my mind and will go cage-less for the summer. I'm turning my lease car in and will be using my XingYue as the sole transportation to and from work. It's 25 miles each way so I will be racking up miles at 250+ per week. That means oil change every 2 weeks and I will looking at a scooter with 7500+ miles at the end of summer. Wish me luck?
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Post by macademyduh on May 4, 2009 15:05:34 GMT -5
My local scooter dealer wants to talk me out of buying an offline chinese scooter saying anything done on it will probably cost $500 if they can even find the parts, does anyone have a list of shops or other that can service the xingyue? Im in Buffalo, New York.
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Post by jspringator on May 5, 2009 7:42:02 GMT -5
I've made up my mind and will go cage-less for the summer. I'm turning my lease car in and will be using my XingYue as the sole transportation to and from work. It's 25 miles each way so I will be racking up miles at 250+ per week. That means oil change every 2 weeks and I will looking at a scooter with 7500+ miles at the end of summer. Wish me luck? Good Luck! You should save enough in gas and insurance to pay for the scooter. Get a good rainsuit, and make sure you have greased and siliconed all the electrical connections. I've got my nose off mine to track my front end clunk, and will do mine when I get it back from the shop. I would certainly carry a cell phone and have a plan B....
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Post by dtwscooter on May 5, 2009 21:32:29 GMT -5
LOL. Cell phone - check. Rainsuit - check. Riding through rain on the way home from work - priceless.
I don't know about others but I love riding through the rain. It's more slick and you need to give yourself a lot of room, but the feeling of going through blanket of rain is just great feeling. I'm fortunate to have 22 miles of parkway out of 25 miles of commute.
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Post by jspringator on May 6, 2009 17:59:33 GMT -5
The clunk I posted about in another thread was badly disintegrated front wheel bearing. Mechanic pressed in a Japanese wheel bearing. $108. There isn't anyway I could have fixed it. Should I have him replace the rear wheel bearings too? It only has 450 miles on it.
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Post by dtwscooter on May 6, 2009 21:36:23 GMT -5
Sorry to hear about the wheel bearing replacement. From the description it should have been detectable by shaking test - front wheel between your knees and shake the handle bar. No?
Can you post a picture of the damaged wheel bearing for the benefit of forum members?
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Post by jspringator on May 6, 2009 21:50:48 GMT -5
I left it at the shop. There wasn't much left! I couldn't find it, although I knew it would have to be a wheel bearing or loose forks. I think he found it by spinning it fast and it would lock up.
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Post by cruiser66 on May 6, 2009 22:38:13 GMT -5
The clunk I posted about in another thread was badly disintegrated front wheel bearing. Mechanic pressed in a Japanese wheel bearing. $108. There isn't anyway I could have fixed it. Should I have him replace the rear wheel bearings too? It only has 450 miles on it. The rear bearings should be lubricated by the oil in the transmission (gearbox). So, "no" is the answer. It's unusual for even the sealed bearing in the front wheel to fail unless it has thousands of miles or has been damaged. The rear bearings probably have even less of a chance of failure as long as you maintain the gearbox properly. 66
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Post by jspringator on May 7, 2009 5:57:59 GMT -5
My mechanic said the stress of stopping the bike causes more problems with the front bearing. I'm just glad I found someone local to fix it.
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Post by ScootPirate on May 28, 2009 8:52:47 GMT -5
Hey everyone, I'm a newbie to the board and group. I'm taking ownership of a new Xingyue ITA 150 tonight. Sad part is it has 0 miles, I'll have just enough time to unload it from the dealer, and have to park it in the garage for 10 days. I'm leaving for a conference in vegas tomorrow morning. And as much as I want to ride it tonight, from what I've read about the chinese scoots - including the Xingyue ITA 150 is that I should change the oils and do the other stuff before I consider taking it out. So I will have something to look forward to for 10 days. I have enjoyed all the posts and information that you have all posted. thanks.
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Post by dtwscooter on May 28, 2009 15:19:00 GMT -5
Pirate, welcome aboard. Good to know you've found this thread helpful. You will enjoy your XingYue and too find this thread helpful time to time as issues may come up.
Quick update: It's been raining all this week but I'm nice and dry as my rain suit keeps rain out and I begin my commute in my garage and park under a canopy at work. I really like riding through rain although taking caution where necessary. My tires still look to have over 70% tread left. How long are the original tires suppose to last?
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Post by jspringator on May 28, 2009 17:11:41 GMT -5
I think of I were riding it every day in the rain I would be looking or some premium tires. They can't cost that much. Mine is starting to have a vibration that could be an out of balance tire. I'm thinking of of putting those beads in it.
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Post by dtwscooter on May 29, 2009 8:10:36 GMT -5
One step ahead of you jspringator : ) I've put in the beads last year. Couldn't be happier with the purchase. It smoothed out the vibration I had and made the ride more enjoyable. 2 oz per wheel if I recall. I broke the bead with a C-clamp per earl's suggestion.
Little hesitant to pull out the tires with a lot of tread left and so far I did not experience traction issue in wet or dry. Knock on wood. : )
BTW, I keep pressure at 28 front 27 rear measured with Accugage. Does that jibe with others?
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Post by davidmt50 on Jun 2, 2009 19:29:50 GMT -5
I found this forum last fall when I was going to get a scooter. After many reviews I bought the Xingyue in February. It arrived from Blacktop MotorSport with no problems and in excellent condition. I was a happy camper. The MCO followed a week later. Because of winter in MN and other issues, I'm now getting around to getting it set up.
Thanks to you folks over these past months I know generally what I have to do before I even start it up. The PDI so far has shown the backwards fuel filter and the loose exhaust nuts. I'm stumped, however, with taking off the front panel (below the handlebars). I've taken out the 8 screws that I can see, but it doesn't want come off easily. I don't want to force anything and break the fiberglass. I've reviewed probably most the posts on the forum and have not found anyone saying this is a problem. What am I missing? Do I have to take off the side floor panels or is there another screw or nut I have to take off? I don't want to post stupid questions here that have been covered before, but I'm not sure what to do. Thanks for the help.
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Post by buckybuck on Jun 2, 2009 20:18:33 GMT -5
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Post by jspringator on Jun 2, 2009 20:43:15 GMT -5
I just ended up taking off the "nose" of the bike where the vent and signal lights are. If you unclip the wires to the signal lights you can remove it. I put dielectric grease and silicon on the electrical connections. Something I wish I'd done while I had it apart is put a beeper in line on each turn signal.
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Post by leshassell on Jun 3, 2009 0:41:17 GMT -5
Has anyone done any bolt-on performance mods like variator upgrade or engine upgrades on this model? I'm not really interested in generic intake or exhaust mods but I would like to know about BB kits or CVT upgrades. I know the Linhai head is a bit different from other GY6's I've seen, from what I can tell, the variator is not the same as in most GY6's and obviously, the CVT for the 16" wheel is different from most. I guess what I'd like to know is, how much can I do to this thing? Can I build another GY6 and bolt it to this transmission or am I stuck with the Linhai for the 16" wheels?
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Post by dtwscooter on Jun 3, 2009 9:36:24 GMT -5
You know, Les, I've gone through the modding thoughts myself but have to admit, I ended up liking the scooter as is. From stop to 40mph I leave other traffic behind, from 40 - 60mph I keep up with others. This performance completely satisfies my needs for the scooter until I move up to full size motorcycle.
Some food for thoughts however: * I performed the motorman break-in procedure * changed oil at 50, 200 and every 500 miles afterwards * did not use synthetic oil until after 2000 miles * used Restore oil additive at 3500 miles * adjusted valves around 200 miles * use Seafoam on regular basis * installed NGK iridium spark plug
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Post by davidmt50 on Jun 3, 2009 18:05:18 GMT -5
To "buckybuck" and "jspringator" - thanks for the help. I went back in today and figured out I probably had to take to nose off first. Your feedback confirmed it. Again, thank you.
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Post by leshassell on Jun 4, 2009 2:14:01 GMT -5
For the most part, I've been pretty happy with mine but I just love to tinker. I know eventually I'm gonna have to go into the motor so what I'd like to do is build a motor on the bench and drop it in later on down the road but these long ones are kinda hard to come by; which is why I was wondering if I found a shorter GY6 could I bolt the motor to my transmission?
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