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Post by jspringator on Apr 27, 2009 19:48:59 GMT -5
My Xingyue ITA 150 developed a disturbing rattle clunk in the front end. You could hear it and feel it through the handlebars. Turns freely side to side. I removed the little plastic inspection piece in the handle bar area and tightened the 14 mm bolt. It wasn't loose. Through the inspection port I noticed the big nut that holds the forks to the frame. I'm guessing that is the next thing to try. I'll have to remove the plastic panel in front of your knees.
Is there anything else I should check? What do I use to tighten up that big nut?
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Post by leshassell on Apr 28, 2009 0:33:06 GMT -5
I'm betting on the loose nut hangin' on the handle bars... just kidding! More than likely, its gonna be that big forkin' nut or whatever you want to call it. I used a big crescent wrench to tighten mine but I had the whole thing torn down at the time so I don't know if it would work without having all the plastic pulled off. If you're a packrat like me, you may be lucky and its just crap rolling around in the storage compartment. Go ahead and check your wheel bearings and brake just to be on the safe side.
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Post by jspringator on Apr 28, 2009 8:28:32 GMT -5
How do you check the wheel bearings?
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Post by leshassell on Apr 29, 2009 1:21:44 GMT -5
Just get the front wheel off the ground and make sure there's no play in them. You can also sometimes wedge the front wheel between your knees and wiggle the handlebars around to see if there's anything loose.
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Post by jspringator on Apr 29, 2009 19:28:54 GMT -5
Wheel turns smooth. No clicks or movement.
How do you get the knee panel off? I took off the 8 screws and 1 bolt behind the glove box, but can't get the plastic to come off.
Or should I access the fork nut from the front?
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Post by buckybuck on Apr 29, 2009 20:01:29 GMT -5
How do you get the knee panel off? I took off the 8 screws and 1 bolt behind the glove box, but can't get the plastic to come off. There are two bolts that you need to remove from the front side of the panel assembly. Put your finger directly behind the side reflectors and you'll feel them. Remove them and the front part will pop right off. Before you do this, make sure you've got a strong magnet and another magnet on one of those telescoping handle tools. The reason is when you put the knee panel front back on, you'll invariably drop one of the bolts into the bottom pan and have to retrieve it by taking the front part of the knee panel off again. Drag the magnet along the underside of the bottom pan to pull the bolt to the front, where you can reach down with the telescoping handle tool and grab it. Lot quicker than removing the bottom pan. Ask me how I know.
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Post by brian8474 on Apr 29, 2009 20:21:17 GMT -5
Check your disc break mout and be sure its tight.
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Post by leshassell on Apr 30, 2009 0:59:54 GMT -5
Definitely go in from the front and buckybuck's description sounds pretty much spot on... especially the magnet thing.
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Post by jspringator on Apr 30, 2009 7:57:16 GMT -5
The disk brake mount bolts (2) are marked with red paint that lines up. Based on my experience with these markings on other parts of theis scooter, I think this indicates the use of locktite. I don't want to disturb it unless I run out of options.
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Post by leshassell on May 1, 2009 0:19:01 GMT -5
Man, I don't have a clue what it could be if its not one of the things we've already covered. Are you sure its in the front end? When exactly are you experiencing the clunk/rattle?
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Post by jspringator on May 1, 2009 8:24:25 GMT -5
I got the front off no problem. Got a set of wrenches for the fork head. Didn't have one large enough for the main nut, but I was unable to even loosen the jam nut.
The rattle is intermittant. Sometimes can be actuated by the front brake application, but not always. I'm sure something simple is going on that I'm not experienced enough to see. The brake calipers were on tight. Fender was locktited last year and seems tight. I inflated the tire to 30 lbs and had no effect. Might still be a wheel bearing that only acts up when hot. Doesn't feel hot on the outside of the bearing, though. I'm stumped.
I think I might take off the rattling trunk to make sure I'm not imagining things.
BTW, a valve and idle adjustment cured my driveability problems. Not a fuel injection idle when cold, but MUCH better. Newcomers with one of these things should do that first thing. I also installed an air compressor oil catch (from Lowes) under the seat, and routed it back to tha airbox. There is a little bit of oil in it. We'll see how it works when I get this fixed and go for a high speed run.
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Post by brian8474 on May 1, 2009 12:06:56 GMT -5
The disk brake mount bolts (2) are marked with red paint that lines up. Based on my experience with these markings on other parts of theis scooter, I think this indicates the use of locktite. I don't want to disturb it unless I run out of options. Just check it with your hand and if it moves any at all it is loose..
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Post by jspringator on May 1, 2009 15:41:54 GMT -5
The disk brake mount bolts (2) are marked with red paint that lines up. Based on my experience with these markings on other parts of theis scooter, I think this indicates the use of locktite. I don't want to disturb it unless I run out of options. Just check it with your hand and if it moves any at all it is loose.. I put a wrench on it and it wouldn't budge. I still think it is the steering head nut. I found a guy about a mile from my house who claims to be a chinese scooter mechanic. We shall put him to the test! I will post back with the final verdict.
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Post by jspringator on May 6, 2009 18:04:27 GMT -5
The clunk was badly disintegrated front wheel bearing. Mechanic pressed in a Japanese wheel bearing. $108. There isn't anyway I could have fixed it. Should I have him replace the rear wheel bearings too? It only has 450 miles on it.
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Post by scosgt on May 9, 2009 17:57:06 GMT -5
The disk brake mount bolts (2) are marked with red paint that lines up. Based on my experience with these markings on other parts of theis scooter, I think this indicates the use of locktite. I don't want to disturb it unless I run out of options. Apparently those magic marker stripes on the bolts are the Chinese version of quality control. They indicate the bolt has been tightened. Sort of important on the brake calipers.
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Post by iEatKidneys on Jul 20, 2012 21:55:36 GMT -5
I know this is really late on this thread, I need some help and am new to this site. My wheel on the front end of my scoot is making a squeaky/grindy/moany noise when the wheel turns forward, when i roll it backwards it doesn't. I also have a rattly sound and feel in my handlebars. I don't know what to do about it. I have thought it is a bearing issue, but i'm not sure. What else could cause this. My uncle is using it as a way back and fourth to work and i quite frankly don't want him to die. Thanks.
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