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Post by dtwscooter on Aug 14, 2008 13:16:44 GMT -5
jspringator, If all else fails, you may just want to upjet your pilot jet. I went from 35/102 to 40/115 and the idle issue was put behind me.
However, I'm rethinking the main jet, possibly going back to 102 due to fuel economy affect. My average dropped from 90's to 70's. This could be combination of heavier throttle, faster speeds(as I get used to riding) and bigger jet. Or nothing ;>
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Post by emanyoda on Aug 14, 2008 13:42:08 GMT -5
dtw what elevation are you at?
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Post by dtwscooter on Aug 14, 2008 14:12:14 GMT -5
I believe it's little below 800ft above sea level.
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Post by emanyoda on Aug 14, 2008 14:56:50 GMT -5
Awesome, I'm around 550ft. So the only negative with the 40/115 jets is the gas mileage, was the power noticeably better, or not so much?
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Post by jspringator on Aug 14, 2008 15:01:16 GMT -5
I've got a 40 idle and 120 main. Should I just switch out the idle jet and leave the settings the same? I think the 120 will be too rich.
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Post by emanyoda on Aug 14, 2008 16:00:09 GMT -5
Does anyone know what kind of carb is on the xingyue 150, i was going to order some jets
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Post by jspringator on Aug 14, 2008 20:07:48 GMT -5
This is where I got mine, but since I haven't put them on yet, I can't guarantee they fit. I think somewhere in this site is a kit with several jets, a case and a tool that I wish i had gotten after I ordered individual jets; look around. www.sunlparts.net/proformance-parts--mrpspeed-.html
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Post by dtwscooter on Aug 14, 2008 21:17:37 GMT -5
I got my jets from local MC store. They are the Keihin round type. Alternatively you can get them for reasonable price from here: www.jetsrus.com/main_page.htm Look under the Keihin section and N424-36 for the main jet and N424-21 for the pilot jets. The pilot jet will have shorter shank than what was installed at factory but the orifice side is identical so works fine. I think 120 main will be too rich. I say this for following reason: I ran premium gas with original 102 main jet. It was good, decent power and great fuel economy. Now I'm running 115 with regular gasoline(87 octane) and it has great power, runs cooler but worse mpg. Happy medium for me might be 110 with 87 octane gas. Or, 102 jet with the needle raised and 92 octane gas. Choices. Choices.., : )
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Post by emanyoda on Aug 14, 2008 23:25:48 GMT -5
Thanks guys I went ahead and ordered them at jetsrus, I appreciate the input. Just a little side note I changed my oil over from 10w 40 to 20w 50 today (cuz the heat here) I've only got 175 miles on the motor and when I drained it I noticed some metal shavings sitting inside on the drain bolt under the screen...... ? also there was some super thin black gasket maker type material in there as well. Has anyone else had this problem? I installed a super powerful little magnet to sit in the oil filter screen to catch any other stowaways in the motor
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Post by ibanezplayer on Aug 16, 2008 13:56:22 GMT -5
Hey everybody, I just ordered this scoot from atvdiscounters.com. What should I do in the PDI. I know im going to go over every bolt and loctite a few of them, but do I need to replace the fuel hoses, vacume hoses, and fuel filter? Thanks!
JT
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Post by jspringator on Aug 16, 2008 20:03:57 GMT -5
If you do nothing else be SURE to drop the pan and locktite the exhaust to head bolts. Locktite all the bolts on the exhaust. I was blowing a lot of oil out of the air filter, so i had to change some things there. Look through the posts on my profile and you can find the thread. Change your oil and use 20 w 50 dino. Change your gear oil with WalMart synthetic. You will probably have a problem with your scoot idling very high once it warms up really well. This will require you to move the painted cover around the engine to adjust the air carb screw. If that is the case, that would be an excellent time to replace the hoses and filters.
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Post by jspringator on Aug 21, 2008 12:47:46 GMT -5
rear body panel, seat/bucket What happans to the seat lock when you remove the rear body panel? Looks like I will have to remove the luggage rack and a few assorted screws. Does it come off in one piece or do I need to split it side to side? Anything else I should knowbefore I get started?
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Post by cedarcreekscoot on Aug 23, 2008 15:18:14 GMT -5
Just got mine yesterday. 2008 model manufactured in 06/08. It came in missing one of the exhaust nuts and the other was just hand tight. They can now be reached from the bottom of the bike. The fuel filter was installed backwards just like so many other ones on this post. The oil drain plug no longer has the spring & filter, just the 17mm bolt. I will update more as I get into the PDI further.
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Post by rtslater on Aug 27, 2008 19:14:20 GMT -5
I have a ITA150 and have recently had some electrical problems. I was running an H1 bulb for a headlamp. The current draw is about 4.6 Amperes at 12. 6 volts. It must have been too much for the 'Variable Voltage Regulator' as the call it in the wiring diagram. Now there is 15.8 volts AC into the VVR and 14.8 VAC output; no DC at all! Connected an AC Voltmeter between the Pink and Yellow wires out of the Magneto. The minimum was about 4.5 volts increasing to over 35 Volts at about 3000 RPM. So now I have a couple of questions: who sells a 3 wire voltage regulator. What is the proper Voltage and Current, (Amperes) out of the regulator, what kind of Current and Voltage thus power does the standard ITA150 GY6 magneto generate. Who knows? David, AKA RTSlater
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Post by kumarihpx on Oct 13, 2008 22:12:11 GMT -5
Hi Dawgs! Well, my exhaust nuts at the manifold/header pipe (?) fell out while I was on a long ride. It's really loud, and keeps getting louder! I want to learn how to do some work on my scooter so I'd like to get the right bolts/nuts/washer, etc. I stopped by CycleGear today on a whim - we started at 6mm (on sale at partsforscooters.com), then went up to 8mm with course threads - the guy said the threads stopped catching. I went to a bolt company and tried 8mm fine thread, but didn't have tools and could not turn it in there with pliers.
My question is whether the 8mm fine thread bolt is correct before I go back and buy them? It sounds like others here are talking a different size bolt. Also, the bolt I was looking at was 1 inch, should I go longer?
Thanks for any help you can give me - I do NOT want to turn it over to some over-priced MC shop - I would like to learn by doing this myself.
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Post by kumarihpx on Oct 14, 2008 15:44:08 GMT -5
Hey Dawgs, well, I decided to give it another go today. I went to the MC shop near my house, which I hate because of the owner's attitude. A mechanic helped me to find the 8 mm exhaust bolts (course threads) and with my socket set I was able to get them in there well, but still lots of loud rumbling and spitting.
They told me I might need a gasket but didn't have one - they don't service scooters is always the answer I get, which is SO tired when all I want is a freakin bolt. OK, TWO BOLTS!
I tried three different lengths, and it turned out that the shortest one made a tight seal with the header pipe and exhaust. No more loud-ass noise -- it's purring like a kitten again.
Just wanted to add to the thread re: how I fixed this.
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Post by ibanezplayer on Oct 14, 2008 23:59:14 GMT -5
Hey everyone, 1600 almost trouble free miles on my ITA-150. The only problem is with the tin can thin muffler. The welds broke off the muffler cover and I have 3 quarter sized holes in the side. Does anyone know of a muffler I can get for less than 200 hundred dollars? Thanks
Jt
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Post by jspringator on Oct 16, 2008 15:19:46 GMT -5
Could you get them welded shut?
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Post by dropbear on Dec 13, 2008 5:27:58 GMT -5
Hi dawgs, thanks for all the info. I've had the first service on my 150. Downunder they are sold as the "Manhattan 150L". $3000- dropbear on the road) They are shipped through a dealer and i'm not going to play with the scoot until the warranty runs out. ( 2yr) No problems so far, but i have a question. What sort of RPM's are people gettin out of the scoot? i think it's still throttled for on "new engine" as i can only get just under 6000rpm on the dial.
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Post by buckybuck on Jan 17, 2009 10:44:24 GMT -5
I haven't seen much activity in this thread lately, so maybe it's time to get some action going again. I have a BMS Pathfinder 150 (a rebadged Xingyue ITA 150). I have a couple of questions and/or concerns about it. Despite these questions, I do want to state up front that I'm happy with this scoot. I knew that it was going to be a more cantankerous beast than my Suzuki Burgman Executive, and I have been having a ball tinkering with it. The low beam on my headlight has burned out. I'm hesitant to take the top nacelle apart any more times than I have to. I've already taken it apart twice, and in the process broken off and super glued one of the four plastic clips that hold the two pieces together. So I'd like to have a replacement bulb on hand before I taken the nacelle off again. What is the bulb number for this? Can I get one at the local AutoZone? The Cheng Shin tires have the word NYLON in large, raised lettering on them. NYLON? Am I missing something here—are nylon tires something to brag about? Don't see that wording anywhere on my Suzuki Burgman tires. Is there anything I need to watch out for with these tires? Are they likely to fail catastrophically at speed or turn my scoot into a Van de Graff generator whenever I ride over a steel grid bridge? I realize that the short answer is to replace them, but hey, I didn't buy a cheap Chinese scoot just so I could replace everything right off the bat. I'd prefer to wait to replace the tires when they're worn out. My scoot comes with a remote. No documentation, of course, but it doesn't seem to have the same functionality as the remote that I've seen discussed here in other posts. I've been lurking here long enough to know that a lot of people think the best thing to do with these alarms is yank them as soon as possible, but I actually wanted it. I'm a teacher in Rust Belt, inner-city high school. So not only do I have to worry about knuckle headed students hiding my scoot as a joke, theft is a very real possibility. I'll chain it when possible, but I'd like to use the alarm also. As near as I can tell, the top button on the remote arms the alarm, the bottom left button turns off the alarm, and the bottom right button puts it in a somewhat silent mode where the alarm chirps rather than blares. Does anyone know of anything else this particular alarm does? A support person at BMS told me over the phone that you can somehow do a remote start using the bottom right button. I'm not sure that I believe him—I haven't been able to get this work, not that I can really think of any good reason to remote start a scooter anyway. I've read instructions posted here about adjusting the sensitivity of the alarm on the ITA 150 by holding the top button down for a few seconds, but that doesn't seem to work with this remote. What's a good replacement belt brand and number? I haven't opened the CVT case yet and don't plan to until the temperature rises considerable, but I get the feeling a belt is something I might want to have on hand for when that inevitable break occurs. My Pathfinder runs rough until it's good and warm. Since the outdoors temperature hasn't been above 40 degrees since I've got the scoot and it only has 115 miles on it right now, I'm not too concerned about that yet. I've played with the air screw (Here's my Tip Of The Day—if you unbolt and remove the underseat bucket, you can easily get to the air screw with a 99 cent Harbor Freight stubby screwdriver www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35437 without the need to remove any other plastic) and adjusted the valves just out of boredom, but it's still there. I never could figure out which mark on the flywheel is the TDC mark, so I ended up adjusting the valves by positioning the cam gear so that all three holes on it are visible. It this an okay method for the engine in these scoots? Since I've already used a fancy word like nacelle to describe the front top Tupperware, I guess I'll refer to the front bottom Tupperware piece as the electronics bay. It looks like to me that the black louvers in front would do a great job of channeling rain water into the electronics bay. Is this really a problem? What about putting a piece of plastic behind the louvers to block water? Would that result in overheating the electronics or quiet the horn too much?
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Post by jspringator on Jan 25, 2009 10:39:56 GMT -5
Mine won't hardly run when its cold. Now that it is 20 outside, it will start, briefly, but I can't keep it running. I think the valves are adjusted too tight. Did you have to put on a new gasket? How did you turn the engine to get everything to line up? I'm going to adjust the valves before I do anything else.
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Post by buckybuck on Jan 25, 2009 17:23:44 GMT -5
jspringator, Hey, a response finally. Couple of updates: Since I posted my entry, I pulled the underseat bucket again and checked the hoses more closely. I found a kinked hose at the carbon canister and a hose hidden under the front of the engine that wasn't connected to anything. There was a tee near it that also had an unused connector, so I put two and two together and slipped the hose onto the tee. I also unkinked the carbon canister hose and, tada, it runs great now, even today when it's in the 20's here too. I don't know if the one hose had pulled loose or was never attached to begin with, but it seemed to slip onto the tee easily. Replacing the hoses will be my next project. The valve cover gasket seems quite robust. I think you'd have a hard time damaging it enough to make it unusable. When I adjusted the valves, I removed the spark plug and used the kick starter to position everything. Like I said in my earlier post, when I adjust the valves, I did so by turning the motor until the three holes showed up on the camshaft pully. I hope that's where they should be to adjust the valves. I'd still like to know what all those markings on the flywheel cover are for, and which one is TDC. The headlight is a 6235B 12V 35/35W lamp. Apparently, it's pretty common on Chinese scooters. I checked a couple of auto parts stores but no one had it, so I guess I'll have to order a replacement online. I'm still interesting in knowing what the right belt is for this scooter and if there's any other information available on the remote!!!
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Post by gruelens on Jan 25, 2009 20:59:10 GMT -5
I have a Xingyue ITA 150. Checked my drive belt at about 1000 miles and there was no dust inside the case and no apparent belt wear. Got the belt number while in there and ordered a spare to keep around.
Gates Powerlink 906 22.5
Scootin' everyday in the Florida Keys George
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Post by jspringator on Apr 12, 2009 20:08:24 GMT -5
Adjusted my valves yesterday. The bottom valve (exhaust, I think) was way too tight. It doesn't sound like the same bike. I'm going to do the carb adjustment this week.
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Post by buckybuck on Apr 19, 2009 19:26:33 GMT -5
Is there an easy way to get the CVT case off these things?
I wanted to take a look at the foam filter and belt the other day and thought it should be an easy job. But after I took off the kick starter and case bolts, I was stumped as to what to do next.
It looks to me like you next have to take the bottom pan and/or side body panel off to be able to yank the case out of the way. If you have to, you have to, but I thought it should be easier, at least to get to the foam filter. Am I missing something simple?
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Post by dtwscooter on Apr 19, 2009 22:28:58 GMT -5
Just a quick note to say hello(have been off for a few months) and to read up on the posts. This weekend was gorgeous here in Michigan(65deg and sunny) so brought out my Xingyue 150. Installed the mirrors, windshield, trunk and the battery which was in the basement hooked upto a float charger all winter long. After several kicks at the foot starter and several cranks with the electric starter it started up. Took it around the block just for kicks and grins and it was good feeling to have it back.
FYI, I used the Seafoam before the winter. I plan to use it capful per tank of fuel just to maintain. BTW, it has little over 3500 miles - all original equipment accept for the accessories I've put on, the spark plug and HID headlamp.
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Post by leshassell on Apr 19, 2009 22:43:00 GMT -5
I gave mine an "adjustment" with a rubber mallet and it came right off.
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sza
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 2
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Post by sza on Apr 22, 2009 1:30:25 GMT -5
Hello ScootDawg, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to scooters, but I recently bought one of these Xingyue XY150-7 scooters and am in the process of learning about how it works and getting it running and on the road. This forum popped up when I looked around for information on this kind of bike, so I hope I can use it to answer some questions and possibly save myself from a lot of avoidable trouble down the road.
However, I really have no experience with scooter engines or electrical systems, so other than just a basic familiarity with my car's engine, I'd be starting from scratch with this bike. I had a friend who knows a little more than me help me do a PDI (paying attention to the tutorial thread I read on this forum) after it arrived, and everything looked good. So today I hooked up the battery and put a little gas in the tank, and while all the lights worked (alarm too) and the electric starter turned over, I still couldn't start it, even with the kick start.
I've considered just finding a place around here (I'm in Indianapolis) that services scooters just to have a professional look it over and get it up and running, but as I'm always inclined to save some $ and learn something in the process, I thought I'd post in here to get any advice from you gurus on what I should do or where I can find some pretty basic online resources for learning the fundamentals of what I need to know to take care of my scoot like the rest of you all.
And in the process I'll also say hi and thanks for all the useful info I've already found on this forum!
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Post by leshassell on Apr 22, 2009 2:34:27 GMT -5
sza, have you ever had the bike running at all? Reason I ask is because it can sometimes take quite a while for the fuel to prime the carb on initial startup unless you prime it manually. Other than that, there are several weird little "safety" switches that all have to be in proper position i.e. the side kickstand must be up, the brake must be on and make sure the kill switch is in the run position. Thats all that come to mind off the top of my head.
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Post by buckybuck on Apr 22, 2009 5:22:11 GMT -5
I've considered just finding a place around here (I'm in Indianapolis) that services scooters just to have a professional look it over and get it up and running You've got this coming up in June! www.gasolinerally.com/I'm in Dayton, Ohio, and considering riding my rebadged Xingyue over there for the rally. So far, no real mechanical problems with mine. The weather hasn't been great since I received mine last fall, but I have managed to accumulate 700 miles on it and have managed a couple of 50-60 mile jaunts on it so far. You'll figure out what the starting problem is, and it'll probably end up being something simple. Despite the fact I still haven't figured out how to wiggle the CVT cover out of the way, there really isn't much to these scoots. When mine arrived, the instrument panel illumination lamps didn't light. I spent days tracing the wiring, checking the regulator, etc., before I finally figured out that the problem was that ALL the illumination lamps were bad.
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