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Post by JiuJitsu on Aug 30, 2008 8:56:23 GMT -5
Well I tried that but I guess I need to list the whole series of problems... After I applied the lock-tite (and locking washers as well) the bolt on top of the muffler, SNAPPED in half with the threaded portion still in the hole! I was able to back it out, but the threads were ruined and I had to re-thread the hole to a larger size 7/16". I couldn't find a larger re-thread in metric... The new larger bolt lasted a bit and then THAT snapped too, a friend told me about upgrading the steel to "grade 8" ( I never heard of it but I found it at the Loew's sure enough). That lasted longer, but ALSO snapped... My point is that the blue lock-tite, at least lately on that particular bolt, has just made it hard to get the broken bolt pieces out while contributing nothing to preventing the bolt from snapping!
I now have a spare with me (the last time I went to the store there were only two left so I thought I better buy both...), and when that one goes, I'll have to re-thread to a 1/2" grade 8 steel bolt. That ought to last a while, I would think... I hope.
I want to "lock-tite" the pesky bolts at the header but I haven't taken the time to remove all the panels, I just loosen a couple and reach in there to tighten those two up every weekend. I think I will need "red" locktite to make a difference in there because they get so hot.
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Post by glassvial on Aug 30, 2008 12:26:04 GMT -5
You snapped a grade 8 SAE bolt? I'm impressed. You sure that wasn't a grade 8.8 metric, right?
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Post by yarddogbbq on Aug 30, 2008 12:35:26 GMT -5
yeh i would be careful with the locktite.
usually antiseize is used on header (exhaust) bolts. on ones that get hot and rust.
spark plugs too. antiseize or moly grease. you want to be able to take apart.
there is a risk of breaking the stub off in the head with locktite. careful.
antiseize would be great on rod bolts etc. (plus staking)
imho
yarddog
i know somethings vibrate loose and fall off, but some get real tight with nothing and break easy.
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 7, 2008 19:14:09 GMT -5
Hi Guys, It has been a while since I have posted and I wanted to catch up with everyone!!! The good news is I still love my scoot - the Blue Bomber and I get around quite nicely! The bad news is that I am experiencing trouble with the headlights. I currently have about 975 miles on the scoot, and I changed both headlights when one of my high-beamers went out about 300 miles ago. This past Friday, both of the daytime runners went out on me simultaneously, but the one high-beamer still works. I have an e-mail into AllNewSports as of this past Friday, I think most riders would consider the headlights a major safety issue, so I am trying to be VERY cordial with AllNewSports on this one, however, I fear that this is a situation where I may have to look into the Kansas and Indiana state lemon laws if I cannot get this one resolved - I would absolutely hate to do that because I absolutely love the scooter! Furthermore, it is a great conversation piece if nothing else which allows me to be more social with people at work and church and wherever the road may take me. Speaking of which I took my first real highway trip from Westfield to Kokomo, IN on Labor Day and a group of Harley riders were kind enough to let me tag along with them for a few miles - IT WAS GREAT!!! It was like running with a pack of wild wolves!!! I'll never forget that! Yours, UrsaPolaris
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Post by stevep on Sept 7, 2008 19:33:45 GMT -5
ursa...if you haven't already, check your fuses in the main box to make sure they are all seated properly....visually inspect each fuse for broken leads...I had the same issue...it was a fuse
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Post by luckeydawg on Sept 7, 2008 19:36:17 GMT -5
I had the same issue ursa, mine was the dimmer switch! Take it apart(easy) and there's a small aluminum piece that came loose(a contact), little super glue and mines held for the last 1200 miles an forget about those idiots at allnew, just do it yourself, you can get parts easy at roketa.com...but this one you can fix
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 8, 2008 5:44:21 GMT -5
Thanks for the info guys! I checked the main fuse box this morning (I had not already checked it) and the fuses (all 6 of them) looked fine (except the one that I broke getting it out). I manipulated the fuses to learn some more about what each fuse controlled and discovered that I still have the issue with 1 high beam and no daytime runners, I will attempt to look at the dimmer switch this evening, but I think that I am going to have to find that one as I have no idea as to where it may be located. I think that you can get fuses at any auto parts store, so off to AutoZone I go at lunch today... I think that there must be something in the wiring that has gone wrong, but I am open to any and all suggestions! Thanks in advance for your assistance, UrsaPolaris ;D
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Post by madmanjustice on Sept 8, 2008 8:36:43 GMT -5
the dimmer switch is part of the left hand switch assembly, where the horn and turn signal switches are.
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Post by nsidechgo on Sept 8, 2008 10:13:44 GMT -5
I'm having an isue with 1 headlight, I will start with the switch tonite but was wondering where the main fuse block ursa mentions is? I've only found 2 fuses so far. Thanks
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 8, 2008 10:25:46 GMT -5
Thanks madmanjustice,
I will give it a look this evening when I get home from work! I appreciate you man!!! ;D
Yours, UrsaPolaris
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Post by madmanjustice on Sept 8, 2008 13:32:38 GMT -5
I'm having an isue with 1 headlight, I will start with the switch tonite but was wondering where the main fuse block ursa mentions is? I've only found 2 fuses so far. Thanks if you have a non B like Ursapolaris and myself, the fues box will be under the seat next to the battery. If you have a B version, the fuses are spread out in different locations, some underthe front fairing, some near the regulator above the exhaust (i think)
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 8, 2008 13:35:16 GMT -5
Hi chiscoot,
The main fuse box is under the seat near the battery on the same side of the bike as the key that opens the seat. If I were home I would take a picture for you (I had to look for it this morning myself - I felt like a total NOOB. Almost makes me feel like I did when I got my first set of wheels as a teenager but better, I didn't know to feel like a NOOB then AND I was too foolish to ask questions of those who knew. At least now, I ask questions ;D).
Well, I just got home and I have had the opportunity to check the dimmer switch - nothing is loose there. I also went to AutoZone and got some new fuses - not bad $3.20 for 5 of them, so now I have 4 extras when I need them! ;D
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 9, 2008 20:20:05 GMT -5
Quick Question - I checked in the dimmer switch box itself, is there any value in dismantling the whole front end and trying to take the steering column apart to look at the wiring?
Thanks, UrsaPolaris
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Post by madmanjustice on Sept 9, 2008 21:23:22 GMT -5
well, if you can get to the harness in the front you can put a multimeter on the wires to make sure you have power going through. Having the front cowl off will certainly make that easier.
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Post by JiuJitsu on Sept 10, 2008 8:34:59 GMT -5
I am still waiting on allnewsports to send me something to honor the warranty for my rear wheel... Cost me $15.00 just to ship it!
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 10, 2008 10:10:00 GMT -5
I am hoping to receive some word on the issue that I have today, however, I am thinking that there may be no way for the issue to be resolved easily. We will see! ;D I hope that you get your issue resolved, JiuJitsu!!! BTW, congrats on becoming a Great Big Guru Dawg!!!
On another note, I saw a video on YouTube that refered to a person upgrading their MC54-250 to a 350cc displacement. I am thinking of doing this in the future to make up for the loss of power due to my personal weight (which is slowly but surely coming down ;D). Are you familiar with this process or have you completed it yourself? I am interested to know how that may have worked.
Yours, UrsaPolaris
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Post by JiuJitsu on Sept 10, 2008 15:54:32 GMT -5
350cc would be pretty cool... I have reservations about monkeying with a perfectly good motor though.
But 350 would be niiice...
Do you have any of the details of what they did? Is it a kit or what?
Might make a nice Christmas gift/winter project for Daddy...
BTW, I lost tire pressure on the highway last night, close to home...
Valve stem went bad as predicted. I did the change out with the C clamp method - $20.00!!!
Included a decent little power air-pump that plugs into a cigarette lighter.
$2.00 for two valve stems, $5.00 for a C clamp, $12.00 for the pump!!!
I am slowly but surely feeling like less and less of a NEWB!
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Post by madmanjustice on Sept 10, 2008 16:38:19 GMT -5
I am hoping to receive some word on the issue that I have today, however, I am thinking that there may be no way for the issue to be resolved easily. We will see! ;D I hope that you get your issue resolved, JiuJitsu!!! BTW, congrats on becoming a Great Big Guru Dawg!!! On another note, I saw a video on YouTube that refered to a person upgrading their MC54-250 to a 350cc displacement. I am thinking of doing this in the future to make up for the loss of power due to my personal weight (which is slowly but surely coming down ;D). Are you familiar with this process or have you completed it yourself? I am interested to know how that may have worked. Yours, UrsaPolaris MRP makes a 300cc big bore kit that comes with a new head and forged piston for the CFMoto engines. It prices out at about $600. I don't know how much more performance you would get out of it. I'm looking at various upgrades to make the scoots more "bulletproof" as some might say. I'm getting ready to start buying some extra parts so that when it comes time to get new tires (mine have 1800 miles on them and still look great, and don't ride too bad) i'm planning to repace all my wheel bearings and upgrade the brakes to EBC pads as well.
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Post by JiuJitsu on Sept 11, 2008 7:45:06 GMT -5
I have 6300 miles on my OEM tires and the rear tire is starting to look a little "tired" heh heh.
Front tire looks great somehow...
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 11, 2008 8:10:11 GMT -5
Thanks for the info madmanjustice, I think the video that I saw was the MRP one - I think that what I will do when it comes to the next 2 wheeler that I ride I will move up to the Ridley motorcycles (they have an automatic transmission) or quite possibly something in the Sports-Touring class. I have to admit though that I have been DROOLING over the Harley's on their website. As far as the issues with AllNewSports, I got a call last night from the parts manager, but unfortunately it was on my work phone and I was not at work. This being said, I want to give them every opportunity to clear their name with me - I know that there are many out there that have made claims against AllNewSports (And I suspect that they rightly have issues), however, businesses are built one customer at a time, and we will eventually need many more establishments to service a new breed of motorist - Long live the scooterist!!! ;D BTW, for all you AllNewSports fans, you may want to keep the following information handy: www.ripoffreport.com/searchresults.asp?q5=All%20New%20Sports&q1=ALL&qOffice of Attorney General (State of Kansas) www.ksag.org/home/800-432-2310 785-296-3751 Federal Lemon Law (Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act) www.carlemon.com/warranty_act.aspxYours, UrsaPolaris
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Post by JiuJitsu on Sept 12, 2008 8:29:13 GMT -5
Good post!
A bone for the polar bear!
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Post by nsidechgo on Sept 12, 2008 10:09:13 GMT -5
Thanks ursa & madman, i have the B, it's going to be raining for a few days here so that'll give some time to explore. changed the air valves, not too bad & the rear did come apart as i was changing it. Does anyone recomend a good manual to use for these, or a place to get the capacities & tech tips? Thanks again
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Post by JiuJitsu on Sept 12, 2008 15:38:20 GMT -5
I think searching these posts is going to give you better, more up-to-date, practical info than any manual...
The Yamaha YP 250 manual is pretty good, there will be some differences.
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 15, 2008 14:59:24 GMT -5
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 17, 2008 15:24:31 GMT -5
Here is an FYI for you... www.kssos.org/pubs/register%5C2008%5CVol_27_No_13_March_27_2008_p_383-420.pdfState of Kansas Department of Revenue Notice of Intent to Establish a New Location for an Existing New Motor Vehicle Dealer All New Sports, LLC, Kansas Dealer License #1331, has filed an application for location change. All New Sports, LLC currently conducts business as All New Sports LLC at 1623 S. West St., Suite 8, Wichita, Sedgwick County, Kansas. All New Sports LLC, d/b/a allnewsports.com, seeks to relocate its location and line-make vehicles to 104 W. 17th St., Newton, Harvey County, Kansas. Pursuant to K.S.A. 8-2430(a)(5), any existing new motor vehicle dealer with standing may protest the proposed relocation of the new-line make vehicles by All New Sports LLC. K.S.A. 8-2430(c) provides standing to any existing new motor vehicle dealer who has a franchise agreement for the same line-make vehicle as that which is to be sold or offered for sale by All New Sports LLC at 401 W. 17th St., Newton, Kansas, and provided that the existing new motor vehicle dealer is physically located such that its relevant market area, as defined in K.S.A. 8- 2430(e), includes the location where the All New Sports LLC, d/b/a allnewsports.com, dealership will be relocated. Pursuant to K.S.A. 8-2430(a), any petition or complaint by any dealer with standing to protest must be filed with the Director of Vehicles within 30 days of publication of this notice. Such petition or complaint must be directed to the Kansas Department of Revenue, Director of Motor Vehicles, Attn: New Location Protest, 1st Floor, Docking State Office Building, 915 S.W. Harrison, Topeka, 66612. Carmen Alldritt Director of Motor Vehicles
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 22, 2008 15:27:05 GMT -5
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Post by glassvial on Sept 22, 2008 21:49:47 GMT -5
I don't see mention of a class action lawsuit in that link.
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Post by JiuJitsu on Sept 23, 2008 8:13:22 GMT -5
"need to have", not "do have"...
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Post by ursapolaris on Sept 23, 2008 8:14:05 GMT -5
Correct, but that doesn't mean that such a lawsuit doesn't need to be filed. I was just leaving another link as to ANS's typical service - I should have been more explicit. Thanks Glassvial! ;D
BTW, I think I have finally found a mechanic that my be able to work my issue - I haven't ridden in almost a month, but I am also looking into getting a used Harley.
Yours, UrsaPolaris
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Post by glassvial on Sept 23, 2008 9:09:55 GMT -5
Well throwing around the words class action lawsuit when it comes to these importers, well, you need to be more careful
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