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Post by teknoyd on Jan 27, 2010 1:27:52 GMT -5
Now if I could just find a trick like that for my jeep...
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 27, 2010 13:26:56 GMT -5
Thanks guys I finally got my hands on an impact wrench that one of my friends happened to have. Thank goodness!!! I'm not going to be able to do anything to today but I'm going to try and work on it tomorrow! So I'm looking to go lighter if I'm understanding this correctly? I kinda want a mix of a better top speed / acceleration.
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 28, 2010 1:14:36 GMT -5
Right - lighter weights will give you better acceleration. Too light and you'll be screaming before you reach your top end though. It will take a little experimentation to get it just right... Watch some of the variator changing videos on you tube to pick up some tips about what to do and what not to do. Also read some of the variator threads here, like the one by tortoise I referenced earlier. scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=discussion&action=display&thread=27008Also: scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=25452Remember the belt must be loose in the pulley when you re-attach the variator. If the belt it tight, you'll pinch it between the two halves of the pulley and won't get the nut tight. Then it will work loose later and leave you on the side of the road. If you have strong hands you can squeeze the clutch housing together to loosen the belt. Then put a rubber block or something in it that will hold it apart with out damaging it. Also, you'll need to sort of hold the variator together as you slide it on so the rollers (or sliders) don't get jostled out of position. Also valuable guidelines for the 50cc: scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=4strokeissues&action=display&thread=21422Later! - Tek
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Post by qwertydude on Jan 28, 2010 10:59:45 GMT -5
If you're afraid of pinching the belt together and not tightening the nut enough, simply turn the rear pulley some to sping the belt around and it'll spin the belt around causing it to ride up into its normal position. Then you can continue tightening it. And yep an impact wrench is truly the way to go. I can replace roller weights in about 10 minutes with an impact wrench on the ready.
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 28, 2010 11:05:33 GMT -5
Well I called every shop in about a 25 mile area and NOONE has weights??? I find this bizarre .sigh. I guess I'm going to have to order offline. I'm just really not sure what to order (size) because I was going to take the one's from the scooter now to the shop with me and have them look at it and go from thier.
On a side note I wanted to change the oil to full syntetic since when gas got into the crank shaft I had to put cheaper oil in for the time being. I found some oil last night at Walmart that is 10w-30 would this be ok to use? I put 10w-40 in it last time?
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 28, 2010 12:53:31 GMT -5
I would just take the weights into the post office, weigh all six, and divide by six to get the current weight. I live in a town that hasn't really discovered scooters yet so EVERYTHING comes off the internet for me!
Remember, you can mix rollers. For example, if you have a set of eights and sixes, you can put in a six, then an eight, then a six, and so on. This will give you the equivilent of a set of sevens.
That way you would have the option of six, seven or eight.
That's just an example though. Find out what you have and go a couple of sizes down.
10w-40 would be better if you can get it. Synthetic is the way to go in both the crank case and the rear end.
Have you been riding much now?
- Tek
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 28, 2010 12:55:11 GMT -5
If you're afraid of pinching the belt together and not tightening the nut enough, simply turn the rear pulley some to sping the belt around and it'll spin the belt around causing it to ride up into its normal position. Then you can continue tightening it. And yep an impact wrench is truly the way to go. I can replace roller weights in about 10 minutes with an impact wrench on the ready. Good tip.
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 28, 2010 13:09:07 GMT -5
Yup Tek I went riding a few mins ago. I forgot to put the air filter back on and the scooter started back firing on the way home oops About the weights. The same friend that had the impact wrench knew of a shop that sold them!! I got a set of 6's (mine weighed in right at 8 they looked pretty new?) now I got the scooter up to 40! And it got thier pretty quick to!! I'm happy with this! it felt good to get to that speed! Especialy when just a few short weeks ago it only went 1mph lol thanks qwertydude your trick worked like a charm!! Now I do think I'm done with any upgrades on this scoot. Because A. I don't want to ride at full throtle all the time and burn this scooter up and B. I want more speed and don't want to spend a lot more money on this bike and never be able to get any of it back. For the time being I'm going to enjoy my rides at 30/40mph & start saving for my MC skills test. Allthough it does make me mad they charge $200 for that silly class!!! That's $200 we could spend on a better scooter I got to do something today I never did! I pulled into the gas station and filled up my tank for $3.60 lol
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 28, 2010 15:05:21 GMT -5
WC, First off, you should be able to ride at full throttle as long as the engine isn't at too high an rpm. Of course, without a tachometer that will be hard to tell but you can kind of gauge it by ear. I hear you about not spending money you won't get back, and I think you're about at the peak of what you can expect from that bike. The only thing I might still add is the performance variator and sliders, but that's more money. Might be a selling point when it's time to sell it though, too. I missed out on the MC certification. I'm old enough that I was grandfathered in. $200, outch. But from what I've heard there a lot of valuable safety tips, so maybe it's not so bad. Yeah, that's great being able to fill up and drive for a week or more for 3.60! During the summer I filled up my car and noticed next time I filled it three months had gone by! So - to review, Regulator fixed Lights fixed Carb fixed Fuel filter replaced Hoses replaced Valves adjusted Variator tuned in A lot of YOU in that bike now, sure you can sell it? Ha! If you do be sure you get some good pictures of it, I'm sure you'll want to remember it. That's one of my problems. I get attached to these damn things and can't let go. I've had this one since 1986: Did you get the seat latch fixed? That would be worthy of a separate post as the places that sell body parts kind of come and go. Again, best to get fresh info. - Tek
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 28, 2010 16:18:33 GMT -5
Well Tek if I want another one I'll have to sell it I would keep it just to keep it but I don't have space / money to do so I do really love it though My next questions is I don't like how unbright my back turning lights are in the day time is thier anyway to fix that or how could I go about adding aftermarkert lights?
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Post by qwertydude on Jan 28, 2010 17:21:38 GMT -5
If you're concerned about engine longevity due to sustained high rpm definitely get the performance variator. Since it usually has a larger face, you get a wider range of gearing, keeping the same weight you end up with a taller effective gear at high rpm. Bone stock I'd reach the end of the gearing range at about 25 mph then the rpms would climb slowly to a screaming 42 mph. Now with the new polini variator I get consistent gearing to accelerate quickly, relatively, all the way to 42 mph so the engine is turning slower at the max speed. This will help both the longevity of the engine and also mpg. You'll also be slow valve seat recession by not revving it so high constantly. I'm just waiting for my jet kit to arrive and I'll have my scooter tuned for the best performance and best durability. I'm keeping the stock airbox because it flows well enough, filters effectively and keeps water out of the engine because I will ride in the rain every so often.
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 29, 2010 10:00:05 GMT -5
qwertydude thanks for the advice! If I don't sell this bike in the next few weeks I might do that upgrade. I found some turning lights at autozone. I'm working today on putting them on the back of the scooter. I'm taking the wiring from the side turning lights and running it to the back. I'll post pics when I get it done
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 29, 2010 12:13:56 GMT -5
Isn't there existing wiring for the rear lights?
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 29, 2010 14:23:41 GMT -5
Yes Tek it had turning sig.s already in the back but I wanted to put extra ones in because the stock ones I noticed during the daylight just weren't bright enough for my taste. I figured if I messed something up at least it would only be the side ones (Besides I only had the right side one working anyway) so I figured it would be easy to just use that wiring. Here are some pics. This is the turning sig.s I used the wiring from. This side is the only one that had a bulb, however both sides had good wiring. While I was at it, I also removed all the old cracked 'Venicia' labeling from the side. Now I just have to figure out what to put back on it. Or to leave it alone? Even if I am going to sell it, I see no reason I can't have fun with it now hehe Also: The scooter has started backfring?? It'll only do it when I've gotten it upto about 40ish and then stop at a red light / stop sign. It dosen't happen everytime but sometimes. Is this bad? Do I need to make it stop? Would adjusting the air / fuel screw help this? If so would it need less air?
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 29, 2010 17:07:18 GMT -5
Those are probably a lot safer and don't look bad at all.
I think I would leave the labeling off. It gives it a good clean look. I think that's the problem with a lot of the scooters, especially the more modern style. They have too many stickers, decals and labels on them. I think it cheapens them, like putting a bunch of bumper stickers on the back end of a BMW or something.
Is it backfiring or cutting out? On acceleration or deceleration?
Have you done anything to the exhaust or carb to open them up?
If so you may need to increase your jet size.
Also, you might check you connection from the carb to the engine to make sure it's not sucking air in the, throwing off your air/fuel ratio. Or anywhere else that would cause that.
Another possibility is that you're hitting the 8500 - 9000 rmp rev limiter, which means - slow down!
- Tek
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 29, 2010 17:46:54 GMT -5
Tek it's backfiring on deceleration. It only does it after I've gotten upto right at 35/40mph then when I come to a stop it'll hesitate slightly, backfire then it's fine? I haven't done anything except ride one day with the foam air filter off (I thought that's what was making it back fire but when I replaced it today it still did it not very loudly but it still did it) I wish this thing had a RPM gague so I could see were the rpm's were at. It dosen't sound like the engine is any diff. though? I like it without anything on the side to
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Post by cruiser66 on Jan 29, 2010 20:19:41 GMT -5
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 29, 2010 20:38:07 GMT -5
Thanks cruiser66, when I get some more money I'll deff. have to get that!! That would be good on any scooter I have for now or new ones Does anyone know of a polish for scooters like they have for cars to take scratches out?? Mine has a few scuffs on the side and I would like to get those out if I can.
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 29, 2010 20:45:45 GMT -5
If it's backfiring on deceleration you might check the exhaust gasket between the head and the pipe.
Sometimes when that is loose they will suck in air on deceleration and then you'll get backfiring.
The "gasket" is a little metal ring. I've replaced it with gasket material and it was fine if not better.
It's always something isn't it?!
- Tek
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 29, 2010 20:48:10 GMT -5
Cruiser66,
Good deal on the tach. On these retros they don't give you much of a dash or anyplace to mount anything. Maybe I could rig something up.
Or get it for testing and tuning purposes.
- Tek
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Post by dasurfguy101 on Jan 29, 2010 21:12:20 GMT -5
how bad are the scratches?are they down to the plastic itself?be a painter by trade i would.find a shop somewhere and see what they would charge to spray it.the paint on these plastic parts is a single stage.havent see one yet with base coat/clear coat.light scratches could maybe sand with 2000 grit wet or dry then buff to shine.but its hard to say.any pics?sorry for the jibberish,trying to go from text format to typing is a pain.lol.but to answer your question as long as the paint isnt "broken" any polish is good.i use meguiars.saw you question about oil.klotz 10w30 synthetic.and a dab of lucas oil treatment in your rear end.i use them religiously.
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 30, 2010 10:29:39 GMT -5
Hey guys I posted a new thread as well but I was wondering if any of you had installed a raido on your scooters? I ordered a MP3 amp from ebay and I'm just waiting for it to come. I know I need to install a power adapter with a fuse but how do I do that? & What size speakers would work? I was thinking of mounting it all under my seat. Also dasurfguy101 it's pretty light scratches from what I can tell I'll get pics later and post. I used turtle wax the other day but it didn't do anything. I don't know of any paint shops in the area and I don't really want to put a lot more money into the scooter (the above sound system I know I can take out and put in a new scooter this one is kinda my guinea pig) Tek, how would I get to that? Is that the part with the peice that attaches to the carb.? Or underneath? (remeber I'm still learning
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 30, 2010 13:05:12 GMT -5
WC, With the engine running you can sometimes hear or feel exhaust leak out of the connection between the flange and the cylinder. Here is the exhaust system. The flange at the top right corner of the picture (going out of the frame) connects to the cylinder with two nuts. In a recessed groove on the cylinder resides a circular metal gasket. I couldn't find one quickly so I replaced it with standard gasket material cut from an exhaust gasket from a big block chevy. Using the "Dirty Finger" method of gasket template design (lay a piece of paper over the flange and rubbing it): Gasket is starting to take form. I gently used a drill to get the nice clean bolt hole. Other cuts were made with a single edged razor blade of exacto knife: As always, don't tighten too tight. The last thing you want to do is break the bolt off in the head. As for the stereo, be careful as these bike usually just barely make enough juice to charge their own batteries. I'm not saying it won't work, I'm just saying if you get it set up and your battery won't stay charged, that may be why. If it works you should have the thumpin'ist 50cc retro bike on your block! - Tek
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Post by wingcommander on Jan 30, 2010 19:04:40 GMT -5
Thanks Tek I'll see if that's the issue tomorrow.
Do you have any idea of how to wire a toggle switch & fuse to the batt?
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Post by teknoyd on Jan 31, 2010 18:20:32 GMT -5
That should be pretty simple with things you can get at any automotive store. You'll just want to make sure your wiring connections are secure and use a proper terminal. You can do all this with a pocket knife and electrical tape, or you can get fancy. It's usually a good idea to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery while you're working on it so you don't accidently touch something and jump a spark. I would connect an in-line fuse to the positive terminal of the battery. Then connect that to the switch. Then connect that to whatever appliance you're trying to hook up. Then ground the appliance to either the frame or back to the battery. You can put the switch between the appliance and the ground, it doesn't make a big difference. Whatever is most convenient for placement. The switch just breaks the circuit. Here are a couple of examples of wiring terminals. The one on the left is a good size to connect directly to the battery. This is heat shrink tubing - better than electrical tape. Doesn't unwrap and get sticky in the summer. Wiring stripping tool - beats the hell out of a pocketknife or your teeth! You can cut, crimp and strip with it. Cheap at Harbor Freight. Cut a small piece of the heat shrink tubing and slide it on BEFORE you twist the wires together: Get a good tight twist: Pass a lighter or heat gun under, over and around the heat shrink tubing: The tubing will hold the twist together and keep out the elements: - Tek
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Post by wingcommander on Feb 1, 2010 10:35:37 GMT -5
Tek, thanks for the photos. I went out looking for an inline fuse at walmart. They didn't have it and it was to late for the parts store. Going to try and find one today.
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Post by teknoyd on Feb 1, 2010 14:34:31 GMT -5
Good luck! You'll have to post pictures and let us know how the project turns out. By the way, this place seems to have pretty good prices: www.onlinecarstereo.com/Do you already have your gear? - Tek
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Post by wingcommander on Feb 1, 2010 18:05:07 GMT -5
Ok I got the power adpt. hooked up now I'm just waiting on my amp. to arrive from Hong Kong Thanks Tek for the link, I think I'm going to order some speakers from them. Tape is on the bottom because the screw that holds the front pannel on comes into the underseat area. So I don't want to scratch or poke myself. I found an inline fuse at raidoshack.
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Post by teknoyd on Feb 1, 2010 23:08:03 GMT -5
You might think about going with boat speakers (weatherproof) if it's going to be exposed to the elements. Probably cost a bit more though. I try not to ride in the rain and I have a garage, but everyone's situation is different.
I'll be curious to see how you mount your speakers.
- Tek
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Post by wingcommander on Feb 3, 2010 18:59:39 GMT -5
I might have a buyer for my scooter so I might be updating another scooter soon Anyone heard of a chinese made scooter called a hybrid 125? If I can get one for $500 would this be a good price?
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