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Post by fishead on Nov 1, 2012 17:47:41 GMT -5
So I have been pricing clutches and variators is it worth it to buy performance parts or should just stick with original type parts?
Looking to get the best value for my money I don't wanna buy a part and then a month later have the same issue
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using proboards
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Post by thumper650 on Nov 1, 2012 21:55:36 GMT -5
I love your accent!
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Post by ericrockstar on Nov 1, 2012 22:40:36 GMT -5
It depends if your willing to spend the money. I just spent $35 for a clutch, with the bell housing and pulley on eBay. Performance ones are around $40 for the clutch and more for the bell. What makes the difference is the springs in the clutch, which you can also buy separately.
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Post by fishead on Nov 2, 2012 10:10:03 GMT -5
lol thanks i guess i really do have an accent i just dont think about it that much  but if you are from up north then yea i have a major accent |
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Post by fishead on Nov 2, 2012 10:10:35 GMT -5
It depends if your willing to spend the money. I just spent $35 for a clutch, with the bell housing and pulley on eBay. Performance ones are around $40 for the clutch and more for the bell. What makes the difference is the springs in the clutch, which you can also buy separately. thats good to know what about a variator is there a difference in those performance and non? |
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Post by oldbikerider on Nov 2, 2012 10:43:21 GMT -5
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Post by ce on Nov 2, 2012 13:40:55 GMT -5
Scrappydog scooters has your clutch listed under VOG 260 for $79.95, and a new complete variator for $59.95 You can use either the 856 30 30 or 871 20 30 belt, so give them a call to order your parts.
New panels can be had from Roketa.com, but they're expensive, so just weld the plastic with a soldering iron and some zip ties, or just drill the plastic and zip tie it together.
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Post by ericrockstar on Nov 2, 2012 16:11:31 GMT -5
Yes, there is a difference. A big difference in $$$. Quality is better too. So are looks. All behind that big cvt cover. Realistically if you plan to put say, 10,000 miles on the scoot it may be worth it. I think most people will lose interest way before them pricey parts pay for themselves. Just my dull opinion.
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Post by fishead on Nov 3, 2012 10:08:22 GMT -5
Thanks guys I appreciate I will definitely be ordering parts when I get the dough! Parts buying can be rather confusing I get side tracked easily and end up going too shiny on a lot of the websites.
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Post by bobbyb on Nov 3, 2012 10:16:51 GMT -5
fish
I just bought a variator from Scrappy. Cheap and on time.
No regerts. For a 250cc scooter, I see no need for a hot rod
variator. But that's me. Mine runs great stock.
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Post by 4950cycle on Nov 3, 2012 20:31:54 GMT -5
If you have a 257cc engine it is a Linhia. But I believe you have already stated this. OK, Go back to that jack off at the Yamy dealer and say "Hey" wennie wad, You ever hear of a Yamaha YP 250 Majesty ? As he stands there like a dip stick, Say Gemme a manual for one of those. "I think you can manage that can't ya ? " I'd tell him. Then if you want to tell him the Linhia , Yamaha relationship so he will actually know something about what he may be selling. That is your business. Your doing fine btw. Good deal also. A Yamaha YP 250 Majesty is what you have in a sense.
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Post by WarrenS on Nov 4, 2012 11:26:45 GMT -5
The yp250 majesty was never sold in the United States. The dealer probably heard of such a thing.
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Post by scootnwinn on Nov 4, 2012 12:15:01 GMT -5
Trashing your local parts guy as described above would ensure that you are never helped. Might even get you banned from a likely helpful resource. Why on earth would the guy know anything about a scooter his dealership never sold? You catch more flies with honey right?
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Post by 4950cycle on Nov 4, 2012 20:07:34 GMT -5
I know hes heard of a Yamy 400 majesty.Theres a guy north of Tampa selling a motor for one right now. And he wasn't going to help anyone anyway. Hes already proven that. I know, I know its a 250 not a 400  . |
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Post by ce on Nov 4, 2012 22:35:47 GMT -5
Too bad mechanics aren't allowed to search the internet, but if you let them do it just once, they get it all dirty.
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Post by jlee on Nov 4, 2012 22:42:27 GMT -5
Too bad mechanics aren't allowed to search the internet, but if you let them do it just once, they get it all dirty. Good one!  I'll bet if fishead slapped a Yamaha logo on her scooter, that parts guy wouldn't know the difference.  |
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Post by macktheknife on Nov 5, 2012 6:47:05 GMT -5
Why would you even consider buying any manual when it's free on another scooter forum? If you want to know fishead send me a PM.
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Post by 4950cycle on Nov 5, 2012 12:13:06 GMT -5
This is true macktheknife, I know where you are talking about. Cept some of the guys can be a bit snotty over there. They hate new ideas. Especially if they work.
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Post by jazzman on Nov 5, 2012 12:40:48 GMT -5
This is true macktheknife, I know where you are talking about. Cept some of the guys can be a bit snotty over there. They hate new ideas. Especially if they work. I happen to have read that thread, and the guys over there were not snotty as you say they can be. They were just trying to help telling you gaping the valves at .008 was to wide of a gap and you would get clatter and loose performance and maybe worse. But you said you did set them wide on purpose so you would not have to adjust them again for a long time. That is not snotty my friend that is telling you the correct way of setting your valves. And your correct the motor will still run but starting problems can occur and their is no maybes on loss of power with valves set to loose. It appears you have an ego problem and cannot take criticism and or be corrected which by the way comes through loud and clear from your response. And to clarify that is not a NEW IDEA as you say it is actually a bad idea IF YOU KNOW MOTORS. |
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Post by cloudsifter on Nov 6, 2012 14:29:24 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. I had not signed in for a few days. I'm the guy who had the blue aeolus 300 and you mentioned your vog purchase. I won't mention where this was specifically to protect your anonymity, but I'm sure this is enough that you will recognize. Good luck with your scooter, this is a great forum. Thanks guys I appreciate I will definitely be ordering parts when I get the dough! Parts buying can be rather confusing I get side tracked easily and end up going too shiny on a lot of the websites. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using proboards |
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Post by fishead on Nov 6, 2012 15:15:59 GMT -5
Thanks guys sorrybibhave been away was sick am sick husband is ready to buy my clutch he wants it running begets to drive my 2010 coronal when I drive the scoot lol. Anyways an update on the situation I borrowed a cordless impact from a buddy I used to wrench with Long story short the impact wouldn't loosen the nut on the variator...  it won't come off So I have read some people using piston stopper any thoughts on this Or is there another method for removing this Contemplating rolling it close to the apartment and using a corded impact lol Give me some ideas. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using proboards |
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Post by prizmm on Nov 6, 2012 15:22:26 GMT -5
go with the corded impact, most of us use the harbor freight impacts and they are great for variators and clutch nuts
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Post by scootnwinn on Nov 6, 2012 15:32:28 GMT -5
Amen or a breaker bar and a BFH and the cordless again
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Post by ericrockstar on Nov 6, 2012 16:35:51 GMT -5
Impact is the best. Now that's out of the way, I have heard of an unorthodox method of putting a screwdriver through the sparkplug hole to stop the motor from spinning while wrenching it off.
Since you are mechanically trained, surely you are aware there are a multitude of things that can go horribly wrong with this method.
Have a nice day!
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Post by macktheknife on Nov 6, 2012 22:39:24 GMT -5
While electric impacts are ok I use and prefer a good air impact. If the impact is good enough you don't need to do anything to hold the engine but if it's on so tight that a quality impact can't budge it then take a good strap wrench and put around the variator and/or clutch and hold it while impacting.
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Post by prodigit on Nov 7, 2012 5:31:16 GMT -5
I'm quite surprised at your devotion!
If you where me, I'd just fix what's broken, and not worry about all the other stuff on there.
Fix a vacuum/fuel line when it's broken.
Most parts on the bike are of quite good quality.
If the battery can start the starter, no need for a new one, unless you love to play around with it.
And if you do, let us know if there's any improvements that can be made.
Those 260's are great bikes!
Before doing a valve adjustment, make sure you clean the bike for any deposits.
Also, the panels is most people's greatest fear! No one knows where they're mounted, no manuals available, no idea which screws and clips need to be removed before they can be removed. They're probably people's primary reason to NOT work on a bike.
However I wish you success in your endeavor.
If you want your battery to last longer, you could equip it with capacitors. they sell 16V 10mF caps on Amazon. Put 3 to 5 in parallel with the battery, and your lights and electronics will be better protected against voltage spikes, and your battery will charge/release more gradually/evenly.
I tried putting caps on my 50cc scoot, but the drain was too big for it to handle, and it lost some top speed, and acceleration power.
However on larger bikes this should be less of an issue.
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Post by jlee on Nov 7, 2012 17:56:56 GMT -5
If you want your battery to last longer, you could equip it with capacitors. they sell 16V 10mF caps on Amazon. Put 3 to 5 in parallel with the battery, and your lights and electronics will be better protected against voltage spikes, and your battery will charge/release more gradually/evenly. I tried putting caps on my 50cc scoot, but the drain was too big for it to handle, and it lost some top speed, and acceleration power. However on larger bikes this should be less of an issue. I don't know where you got this info prodigit, but it's completely bogus. Take it from an EE. A capacitor would only be useful as protection for the ignition system when running WITHOUT a battery. |
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Post by fishead on Nov 8, 2012 12:22:15 GMT -5
Yea I really don't want to use a piston stopper it's risky. And knowing my luck everything that could go wrong would go wrong. Yea I think I'm going to try to use the corded impact and then from there if that doesn't work I may try holding one side with a wrench.
And of course I'm devoted to my project whenever I have a bad day I usually do some sort of fixing of something big or small always makes my day better for some stupid reason.
Thanks guys for all the help!!!
As far as the panels go I'm not worried about not being able to put them back gonna take photos or video log so I know where they all go. Gonna plastic repair anything that I break since I don't really like the color of the bike anyways gonna repaint it anyone got any good ideas for a color scheme? Don't give me nothing crazy like black and white : P
Looking for bright colors like a green or a candy apple red maybe a teal color
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using proboards
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Post by prodigit on Nov 8, 2012 12:38:21 GMT -5
If you want your battery to last longer, you could equip it with capacitors. they sell 16V 10mF caps on Amazon. Put 3 to 5 in parallel with the battery, and your lights and electronics will be better protected against voltage spikes, and your battery will charge/release more gradually/evenly. I tried putting caps on my 50cc scoot, but the drain was too big for it to handle, and it lost some top speed, and acceleration power. However on larger bikes this should be less of an issue. I don't know where you got this info prodigit, but it's completely bogus. Take it from an EE. A capacitor would only be useful as protection for the ignition system when running WITHOUT a battery. A cap successfully buffers the voltage peaks; and is healthier for the battery. The caps are not for anything else but to buffer those voltage peaks, and release it more rapidly than a battery can, when the bike requires it (like to get energy for the spark plug). That's the theory behind it, but on my tao (probably because of a weak stator), it did not work very well. |
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Post by jazzman on Nov 8, 2012 14:06:05 GMT -5
If the CDI is not DC the battery has nothing to do with fireing the Spark Plug. Matter of fact if not DC you can take the battery completely out and Kickstart the scooter. Do not recommend doing that because the R/R and lights will get damaged. If you have a sort of DEAD or Weak battery and your kickstarting LEAVE the battery connected so your R/R will not burn out.
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it won't come off 
