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Post by als01seville on Nov 21, 2009 0:52:58 GMT -5
Dwild62, that sounds more like it, they also say if you put a uni filter you might have to go to a #114 or #115 main het. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 21, 2009 2:26:19 GMT -5
Alleyoop I read 2 sites for GY6 150cc jetting, that say #120 - #125 main jet for Uni Filter, & #125 - #130 main jet for Uni Filter & Performance Muffler..
Now, all things failed tonight accept for testing the enricher & it's circuit, that's all working. So being that everything went sour, & can't seem to get back what I lost, I think it's time to investigate the head I put on.. Maybe the head gasket blew out, it doesn't seem like it, because it runs all right after it warms up.. I'll have to do a compression test I guess.. I'll have recheck the valve adjustment too I guess.. Unless some one has a better ider..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 21, 2009 18:22:06 GMT -5
Dwild62, If the cold start is the only problem, then yes it could be your valve adjustment. Before I had the valves adjusted it would not cold idle. I would have to hold the throttle open a little so it wouldn't die until it warmed up a little about a minute. After the valve adjustment and air/fuel mixture adjustment it starts on a push of the button and idles right up to 2000 rpms and as it warms up it idles down to 1500rpms. Alleyoop
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Post by aileronjack on Nov 21, 2009 18:29:11 GMT -5
Alleyoop: Mine idles up on a cold start and then idles back down after a few minutes. But when it idles back down there is not a steady rpm. It's pattern is... up in an instant for 3-4 secs, and then back down to about what I would describe as a nice idle speed. And, then back up after 5-6 more seconds and back down after another 2 or 3. There is no predictable pattern. It just keeps doing this until I hit the kill switch. This is not that easy to describe with the written word; but, if it sounds familiar, your recollection and expertise is well appreciated.
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Post by WildMan on Nov 22, 2009 1:38:34 GMT -5
Hay Alleyoop did ya see that BLUE STREAK go by ya?? The BIG BAD BLUE BEAR is BACK!! I rolled the engine & swing frame out from under the BEAR today.. The problem I found was, YOU KNOW THE ONE, YOU KNOW, THE ONE WE ALL HEAR ABOUT, 3 - 4 TIMES A WEEK!! Well I discovered a defective exhaust flange, the exhaust hole of the flange wasn't round, when it was welded to the pipe at the factory they burned the hole way out of round on about 1/4 the diameter, so it was leaking slight enough so you could hear it, but enough to heat up the exhaust valve and cause it to tight way up.. So I welded the bad spot of the flange & reground the gasket surface, & reset the valves. Put everything back together. Put in the #120 main jet, & the #35 pilot jet back in.. The BEAR fired right up & idled. Tomorrow I'm going to try & get a test run in, if all goes well, I can go back to some more mods.. David Sr.
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Post by JR on Nov 22, 2009 8:48:37 GMT -5
What a go David a bone for ya!! Now you can probably re-jet and do great but remember you had a 35 pilot and if you go back to the 38 then you'll probably need to lean the mixture screw down a tad! I had a 35 and went to a 37 so you'll just have to play with her! JRR
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Post by WildMan on Nov 22, 2009 11:16:17 GMT -5
JRR Hay, if you've noticed, the pilot jets, jet working diameter size is like down in the middle of it's length. Do you think it makes a difference where it is? Reason I ask is cause I ended up spoiling the new #38 pilot jet, I ended up drilling it to a #55 (which brought me to the conclusion that something else was wrong), but anyhow, if I plug it w/ solder, the jets working diameter size will probably toward the end of jet.. Whacha think ARKIE MAN?? ;D
David Sr.
Is it my computer, or the spell check not working?
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Post by JR on Nov 22, 2009 15:23:12 GMT -5
Hey Yankee no sweat!! LOL Fill the end with the green arrow with the soldier and then take about a 1.90mm drill bit and then drill out the excess soldier until you hit the solid middle divider of the jet! A 5/64" is almost the right size a teency bit bigger than the hole of the pilot jet! Once ya drill out the excess soldier it will still leave the tiny center hole full of soldier! Then slip the number 38 size bit in and re-drill it to the right size hole in the center! JRR
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Post by WildMan on Nov 22, 2009 16:19:10 GMT -5
Jrr What!! Did ya say Yankee?? OK, just don't forget it!!
What you said about the pilot jet, is about what I was think'n to.. I'm back to a #125 main, needle lean all the way, & the #35 pilot jet.. I'll give're a test run after dinner..
David Sr.
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Post by JR on Nov 22, 2009 18:27:49 GMT -5
What!! Did ya say Yankee?? OK, just don't forget it!!
Hey it could be worse ya know you could be called a Hillbilly!! LOL
What's for dinner!! JRR
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Post by als01seville on Nov 22, 2009 19:13:25 GMT -5
Diwlid62, I happy you found the problem, that is great!! Wow, that was a hidden problem waiting to surface later on. You know now that you mention it, this morning I was riding and you know I DID I DID see this BLUE STREAK going the other way, I did not get a good look cause it was a blur, but I did see this Straw hat flapping in the wind:) You get a bone for finding that hidden gem. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 22, 2009 19:42:10 GMT -5
I gotta test run in at just about dark.. The BEAR was pull'n as high as a steady 7,900 rpm w/ 10 gr weights & 748-18-28 belt, w/ speed around maybe 50 mph at best I guess (but maybe closer to 45 mph), but when my past problems developed, rpm slipped to 7,200 rpm & below..
I popped the 743-20-30 belt back on, for tomorrow..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 22, 2009 21:51:22 GMT -5
Dwild62, Thats what came stock with mine 10g weights and I was running 8100 rpms at 50mph and thats all she wrote:) You will have to put in heavier weights I am currently running 12G Sliders at 7200-7300 rpms and reaching 54-55 mph with the OEM BOSS and 743-20-39 powerlink belt. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 22, 2009 22:09:14 GMT -5
Alleyoop Man, 1 thing at a time!! I put the stock belt back on, tomorrow I'll see where we're at.. You should only make 1 change at a time, otherwise you end up not knowing which way to go when something isn't right.. You end up trouble shooting, instead of making improvements..
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 22, 2009 22:16:01 GMT -5
Dwild62, Sorry, didn't want to upset you. But you know with those 10g weights 50 is about all your going to get you will get there fast but at very high rpms. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 22, 2009 23:23:00 GMT -5
Alleyoop You didn't upset me at all.. I was just making the point that to many adjustments at one time is bad practice.. Make an adjustment, then analyze, make an adjustment, then analyze.. When we get impatient, which I do occasionally, we end up screwing our selves.. My mod-ow is, take your time (slow & easy), hopefully do it right the first time, 1 time.. Maybe not as slow as me though. I work at a turtles pace, but that's what happens when you're raised w/ Machinists, Tool & Die Builders (perfectionists), it's in my blood, my wife hates it..
I'm thinking about building a Stainless Steel Drag Pipe for the BEAR!! Whatcha think??
David Sr.
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Post by WildMan on Nov 23, 2009 0:09:39 GMT -5
Well I see I've got to fix muffler again.. The factory muffler bracket mount is cracked all along the weld, where it's welded to the muffler body.. The Drag pipe is starting to sound like a good ider..
I'm considering a custom built 1 3/4" x 10" Stainless Steel Drag Pipe w/ a 1 3/4" x 8" Cycle Shack Drag Pipe Silencer insert w/ a 1 1/4" diameter core, connected to a Custom built Stainless Steel 1.130" Head Pipe.. Whatch think Jrr??
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 23, 2009 0:24:50 GMT -5
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Post by als01seville on Nov 23, 2009 0:33:05 GMT -5
Dwild62, you know on our CVT cover with the Pull Rope Start. Well I am looking at it and it only has HALF the air inlet open and only on the side of the Pull Start Pulley side. The other half which would help cool off the Variator and CLutch is NOT open. I think I will take it off and cut out the other half on the Variator Side to let some straight air in there and help keep the Variator and CLutch cooler. And also get some fine mesh wire to keep small things out and put it over the entire air inlet and put the Rubber cover with the big holes over the wire meshi. Alleyoop
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Post by WildMan on Nov 23, 2009 1:38:20 GMT -5
Alleyoop You'll have to take a pic, so I can see just what you're talking about on the CVT cover..
For $125.00 - $150.00 I think I can build something better then the stock muffler for $125.00..
This Drag Pipe build I'm talking about, I figure is almost equivalent to that $50.00 muffler at Parts For Scooters & maybe a lot better.. The $50.00 muffler at Parts For Scooters is aluminum & has a 1 1/4" silencer core, the silencer core I'm thinking of use is the same size, the only real difference is going to be the body diameter, my core will be fiberglass wrapped just like the $50.00 muffler at Parts For Scooters, it's just it may not be as thick, so it may be a little louder, but how much is the question, we'll just have to try it & see..
David Sr.
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Post by JR on Nov 23, 2009 8:16:11 GMT -5
Hey David I had the old muffler on the Bali that I did replace with a nice one off of JC whitney eventually crack all the time just like your's is doing! They flex as the scooter moves down the road! I'll see if I can find the thread but I took some hard rubber bushings out of the end of a shock off of a auto and made brackets so the muffler would flex some and stay together better! JUst a thought! JRR
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Post by runningslow on Nov 23, 2009 10:14:47 GMT -5
Hey David I had the old muffler on the Bali that I did replace with a nice one off of JC whitney eventually crack all the time just like your's is doing! They flex as the scooter moves down the road! I'll see if I can find the thread but I took some hard rubber bushings out of the end of a shock off of a auto and made brackets so the muffler would flex some and stay together better! JUst a thought! JRR My 2 cents. I was having all sorts of problems with my muffler: stripping bolt holes and cracking brackets. My dealer fixed mine by taking it to custom cycle shop to replace the bracket and used the exhaust bushings from a Kawasaki Vulcan 1600. Haven't had a problem since. (with the exhaust anyway)
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Post by WildMan on Nov 23, 2009 11:56:30 GMT -5
JRR & runningslow Hay that's a thought, that would do it!! I'd say a larger , maybe thicker hole in mount bracket w/ a sleeved rubber bushing inserted.. Excellent thought guys, (I guess Hillbillies are good for something ;D ;D) thanks guys!!
David Sr.
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Post by als01seville on Nov 23, 2009 13:32:21 GMT -5
Dwild62, Here is a picture of the CVT inlet. Alleyoop
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Post by JR on Nov 23, 2009 17:12:58 GMT -5
Yep us old hillbilles get on to something good every now and then! LOL JRR
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Post by WildMan on Nov 23, 2009 18:18:38 GMT -5
NOW I'M P'D!!! I'll talk later....................................
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Post by als01seville on Nov 23, 2009 19:22:39 GMT -5
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Post by JR on Nov 23, 2009 19:48:08 GMT -5
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Post by als01seville on Nov 23, 2009 19:58:09 GMT -5
Jrryan, I am looking for a metal one not a rubber one, so I can add a velocity and uni filter to it. Because of the weight of the carb without something to hold it up the rubber intakes tend to crack on the top. Currently the on our trikes the Filter is being held up by a metal piece welded to the fram and then you connect the filter to that so the carb will not move up and down. So thats why i am looking for a metal intake for my 24mm carb. Alleyoop
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Post by JR on Nov 23, 2009 20:19:39 GMT -5
Alley these are metal with a bubber outside coat, look at all the pictures but I can find an all metal one for ya! Still will have to support the carb even with an all metal one as the intake goes on the carb with a rubber boot! JRR
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