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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 14, 2009 19:51:50 GMT -5
Here is my moped: profile.imageshack.us/user/mikey32142/What is it missing? On some of the pics u can see that it looks like a hose is supposed to be connected to the thing above the clutch. Idk for sure. All I know is my moped starts and runs, but it accelerates very slowly and has almost to no power. It cant go up any hills and takes a long time to reach its max speed of like 14 mph. I know this moped can be fixed and very much want to ride it, please help me. my email is mikey32142@hotmail.com
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 14, 2009 20:23:43 GMT -5
I believe the hose you are referring to above the clutch (CVT cover) is actually the inlet to your airbox. That should just be open with nothing attached. Since you know where that is now, you could try to check your air filter (inside the airbox) to start with. Make sure it isn't filthy or clogged or something. Actually, it kind of looks like your carburetor has no air filter attached. That could be the problem. See if you can find a hose that would go from the airbox outlet to the mouth of the carburetor. You may want to condiser using photobucket.com to host your photos in the future. Much easier to post them in the thread.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 15, 2009 1:19:12 GMT -5
Where is the air box outlet located?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 15, 2009 6:08:07 GMT -5
I can't see it in the pics and I'm not really familiar with the 1E41QMB, but it's not hard to find. Take a minute to look around the air box (the triangular thing the air box inlet is attached to). The outlet that goes to the carburetor inlet should be the only other large hole or hose on it.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 16, 2009 3:00:06 GMT -5
s592.photobucket.com/albums/tt10/mikey32142/Here in these pics it shows where I believe the problem is. Ok, in the one picture i have a yellow circle around the air box outlet. Whoever previously owned this moped rigged a hose onto it that was about 4 inches in diameter too small. It then connected to another hose that hooked perfectly onto the carberator inlet. Could this poorly rigged hose be most of my problems? I m goin to try and get a different hose that fits with clamps, and has the correct air flow. I really just dont see how this could be the problem though. Shouldnt the moped be able to start even without the hose on? B/C I tried to start it once I took the poorly rigged hose off, and it wouldnt start. It is possible if i messed with it more it would of started. IDK for sure. Any comments are appreciated.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 16, 2009 5:38:40 GMT -5
I believe it could be the cause of your problem, but even if it's not it needs to be fixed. As I told you in a PM, I think it's a good idea to fix any known issues like this before worrying about more complex troubleshooting. I tried removing the airbox or even putting a freeflow filter on one of my old setups. Mine would start and idle but I couldn't get past a few MPH and that's on a scooter that could go around 55MPH normally. You should be able to find an intake hose for your scoot, if not you can try going to a local auto parts store and looking for a radiator hose from a car that may work. Of course take meaurements of the carb inlet, airbox outlet, and distances if you have to get a radiator hose. This may be what you need. I'm not sure, but it's for D1E41QMB engine and it appears to be about the right setup from what I can see in your pics.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 16, 2009 12:17:48 GMT -5
I opened up the air filter and everything looks okay inside. It was not very dirty. That hose you had up above this message wouldnt fit, it looks like it would fit the air outlet but it is too big for the carburator inlet. Im going to have to rig a hose that goes from about 5.5 inches in diameter to 1.5 inches in diameter. I am going to try and get a good hose for it today.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 16, 2009 12:34:25 GMT -5
5.5" diameter? That's bigger than a CD!
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Post by rallyrrr on Mar 16, 2009 13:10:02 GMT -5
Sounds to me like you should get the part 90GTVert referred to as well as these parts: www.discountscooterparts.com/353.htmwww.discountscooterparts.com/148.htmwww.discountscooterparts.com/149.htmHow can you tell just by looking at a picture that the crooked end of the interconnect duct would not fit your carb inlet? Also like 90GTVert said your scoot should start with an open carb. It just won't want to take much throttle. You may need to confirm that you have good spark, good compression and good fuel level in carb and flow throughout the fueling system from tank to idle and needle orifices in the carb throat. Easiest way to see if the engine will start is to put about 1/2 teaspoon of gasoline into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Or spray starting fluid or gasoline into carb while cranking engine over.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 16, 2009 19:05:34 GMT -5
Im sorry not 5.5 inches in diameter. I mean it is 5.5 inches circumfrence.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 16, 2009 19:08:25 GMT -5
You can probably contact the seller and ask them the diameter of the pipe on both ends.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 18, 2009 0:39:10 GMT -5
I have new pics on photobucket. I added a hose today from my air box outlet to my carburator. It seems like it runs a lil better, but it only reached about 20 mph. It also still took about 15 seconds or so to get to 5 mph. Its acceleration is horrible. The hose I put on is one of those aluminum hoses. So it got a little bunched up but it shouldnt make much of a difference. Also, before, when whoever rigged it badly, they had the air box outlet hose going to the side of the carburator circled in one of the pictures. I dont think they had it right. What do you guys think I should do now to try and get it running? Could it be a bad clutch or something? Maybe the carburator itself is bad? Thanks guys. s592.photobucket.com/albums/tt10/mikey32142/
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 18, 2009 5:03:04 GMT -5
It looks like this is just a fuel overflow vent. It wouldn't actually have to be connected to anything. Usually you stick a hose on there and divert the fuel away from your engine so you won't have to worry about gas dripping on a hot engine. There's a diagram HERE. There is a clamp on the fuel hose in this pic, but it's not doing anything. You should move it down so it's actually clamping the fuel hose to the fuel inlet. i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt10/mikey32142/100_0781.jpgI'm not really familiar with the chain driven 1E41 setups, but if it's having trouble getting to 5 mph that does sound like a clutch problem. What is it doing while it's accelerating? Is it revving high or bogging like it's struggling or anything unusual?
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 18, 2009 12:29:10 GMT -5
Its revving very high and very loud.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 18, 2009 12:44:50 GMT -5
It sounds like your clutch is slipping. Are the clutch shoes or bell worn? You said you oiled the clutch, are you sure it was the proper oil?
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 18, 2009 16:46:20 GMT -5
It was proper oil. Ok, today I just got done checking the fuel lines and they are fine, I put gas all the way up to the brim in and made sure it was the right oil. I also changed the spark plug. The moped started right up, but it is still acting funny. It seems to have a little more power but it still wont go any faster than 24 mph. IT also feels like it is pushing back against me when I am driving it. It feels like it wants to go faster but it doesnt. The oil I put in it is rear end oil. Im almost positive its the right oil. I think maybe I just have a bad clutch. OR it is possibly going out.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 18, 2009 16:57:11 GMT -5
And by oil I put in it I am talking about the clutch.
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Post by rallyrrr on Mar 18, 2009 18:17:52 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 18, 2009 18:38:07 GMT -5
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 18, 2009 18:47:28 GMT -5
I filled it up with 2 cycle motor oil. I used the right kind.Hey but earlier I had my dad look at it and without me knowing he filled up the clutch with the 2 cycle oil without the screw being off that shows when its full. Should I drain it and refill it to right level or is it ok to leave it how it is? I did drive it for about 3 minutes total how it is.
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 18, 2009 19:03:39 GMT -5
I would drain it and refill it with 300mL of 10W30 motor oil, not 2 stroke oil. If it still slips bad, you may want to drain it again and refill to clean it out a little more.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 18, 2009 19:07:04 GMT -5
So you want me to just use regular oil? Not rear oil?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 18, 2009 19:39:35 GMT -5
Like I said, I don't know these 41QMBs. I'm going by the info rallyrr linked to.
Read it carefully. It says, "The transfer case/gear box on the lower left takes 300 ml for 10W-30 for 2-stroke and 100 ml of 10W-30 oil for the Turbo model". It doesn't mean 300ml of 10W30 2 stroke oil, it means 300ml of 10W30 if you have the 2 stroke model and not the Turbo.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 18, 2009 20:04:52 GMT -5
Now we are talking about the clutch oil or the oil that mixes with the gas?
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 18, 2009 20:13:57 GMT -5
Clutch. You definitely want to use 2 stroke oil for mixing with the gas.
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 18, 2009 20:25:45 GMT -5
what kind of oil shoukd i use in the clutch then?
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Post by rallyrrr on Mar 19, 2009 0:18:41 GMT -5
Your qingqi is just like the geeley. It is not like the turbo referred to. The turbo uses a belt not a chain. Your sight glass is near the middle of the transmission case. You will need to put 300-450ml (about 1/3 quart) of plain old 10w30 motor oil in there. Two stroke oil has clinging properties and extra lubricity (because so little of it is in your engine at any one time). You are merely providing an oil bath to the chain, clutch and gears in your type of transmission and the 10w30 is what you need to use (it's a lot cheaper anyway than two stroke oil). Look through the assembly and maintenance manual. There's a lot of good info in there.
Quoted straight from the manual the proper amt. and type of oil for your scoot (not the turbo).
Transmission Oil
On all Geely 2 strokes with the exception of the Turbo because of its CVT drive, use 300ml to 450ml of seasonal grade motor oil. Using more than that can make a mess of the centrifugal clutch. You just need enough to keep the drive chain and gears wet. In this case, the cheaper stuff is probably better se you want to avoid synthetic oils with friction modifiers that can also have an adverse effect on the clutch.
On the Turbo, the final drive gets 100ml of a seasonal grade of motor oil. Since the CVT (Constant Velocity Transmission) is a dry belt drive, you only need enough oil to lubricate the rear wheel bearings
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 19, 2009 2:38:49 GMT -5
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Post by mikey32142 on Mar 19, 2009 2:43:45 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Mar 19, 2009 6:23:04 GMT -5
Correct. It may not be a bad idea to spray some brake cleaner or carb cleaner in there after you drain it out to help clean the 2 stroke oil off of the clutch shoes. If you do that just let it sit for a few minutes so any brake cleaner that doesn't drain out will evaporate before you pour in the motor oil.
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