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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jun 24, 2012 6:08:55 GMT -5
Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but has anyone put a seat cover on your Citycom? I have not, but it should be easy if you have the use of a staple gun. The original cover is just stapled on. The black plastic base is very thick about 6mm - 8mm, a good base for the staples. |
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Post by shoupdawg on Jul 6, 2012 0:04:04 GMT -5
Here's a size comparison pic. Sorry for the poor quality. They were taken with my cell phone. Well I picked 2 of these up over on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/180891114614?item=180891114614&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtrAs stated by Panjet, I had to file off one of the holder pins. Alas, they didn't work well for me. On one, it either stayed lit and didn't flash when my brake was held (I have a "Back Off" brakelight modulator), or it wasn't lit, but would flash when I held the brake. On the other one, it just wasn't as bright as the stock bulbs. Now one thing to note, my stock bulbs are red, unlike Panjet's which is clear glass. So is it worth getting these? 1157 380 BAY15D 13 High Power LED bulbs From this website? wardenjp.com/stores/11567.htmlHere are pics of the brake lights...new LED on the left, stock incandescent on the right. This with the garage door open.  This is with the garage door closed. I thought maybe it would be different in the dark. Yes, it was...it showed that the LED was even less bright than the stock bulb.  Maybe you get what you paid for or maybe I did something wrong? These were under $6 shipped vs. $21+ shipping for the ones Panjet got. Kiwi - Thought I'd add to this board as well mate! |
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Post by shoupdawg on Jul 6, 2012 1:35:39 GMT -5
One slight issue; can someone tell me where the @#%@ is the adjustment bolt/screw for the headlight?? It is very low as it came from the factory (just 5-6 feet away!!) Thanks, Stamatis I seem to think that on the left side in the glove compartment is a cover you can take off to get to it. If not then... Look in the service manual page 2-12 Headligh Beam Distance. To take front apart look at Chapter 13. It gives the sequence of removing the parts. Once you look at the scoot it will be clear. Also look at the bottom of Page 2 of this review wher I show how to fit the screen. Once you've taken the garnish and front handle cover off you'll notice the two black screw that hold the black front cover lid. Undo those and slide the lid up and it will unclip. Now you'll be able to get to the back of the lights. Maybe with a stubby screwdriver you may be able to adjust them, but if my memory serves me right I think it's too tight. Just undo the screws that hold the nose cone then. I wanted to adjust mine too, but I found the drivers here don't seem to mind if I ride on high beam always. The odd one may complain then I just dim for them. At night in the city I ride on dim. hope this helps kiwiscoot where we had summer again 25 degC. PS hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine. I see you have the new "improved" model with more foot room. As a commuter the Citycom is a "weapon". ;D I finally figured out how to adjust the headlight's throw and it made a big difference. Note the different levels/heights of the headlight screw adjustments. The one of the left is for higher/longer throw and the one on the right is for shorter. I had it fairly high/longer, and I tested it out tonight and no one flashed me on the road, but I was only on the road with cagers for a short while. I did come home and change them and took a spin (around the block, so no other cagers), and they are better throw but don't seem as high as before.  |
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Post by shoupdawg on Jul 6, 2012 1:38:09 GMT -5
Added Hella Supertones to my scoot as well: This one kept me up all night on a Friday night after work so that I missed my gym class on Saturday morning. And then on Saturday took me all day before I had to call it quits to get ready for a buddy's birthday party. I finally figured out the wiring but more importantly, found the proper configuration to have it fit and allow the cowling fairing to close. In other configurations, it was pushing against the rubber backing on the headlights and no matter what I did, wouldn't close. One horn is low tone and one is high tone. You can just use one, and it may be louder than the stock, but you really need both to get the full effect. The 2 of them together really play off each other and make an ear deafening noise. My buddy tried the horn in his garage and we both went a little deaf for a little bit with each of our ears that were closest to the horns. So I set them one on top of another like so:  Top one was bolted using the bolt and housing from the old horn. The bottom was carefully placed then tightly and doubly zip tied to the steering column stem. Before zip-tying, make sure to full turn the wheel from one side to another to make sure that the horn doesn't impede full range of motion. As you can see, the horn is quite close to the front wheel fairing:  Secured the relay that came with the kit to the screw that holds the fusebox that is located above the electrical plug outlet in the glove box. Had to tilt it sideways to reach the 2 stock wires (opaque covers) that were originally wired to the stock horn:  Note that these horns are 2-2.5x the size of standard horns, but using this configuration will do you. Also, run the cabling first and then set up the horns, then wire everything together, then tighten the bolt for the top wire and zip tie the bottom horn. This made it easier for me. |
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Post by shoupdawg on Jul 6, 2012 1:44:37 GMT -5
Here is my latest modification to my Citycom. I've had to replace the air-filters every 10 000km and found they got very dirty. They are not cheap at NZD62 a go. A washable solution was in the works. I did have a go at it last year - this was the effort.  Bottom side  This did not work as the surface area was just to small. The scoot felt starved of air and the filter got very dirty in a short while. That was Mark1 filter and needed improvement. Here is Mark2 now.  Top side  Bottom side  Air filter foam You will need the following to make your own: 1.) old Citycom air-filter 2.) expanded metal mesh 3.) Natural cure RTV/ silicon sealant. I used auto windscreen sealant. 4.) Dremel tool or something to cut out old filter 5.) tin snips to cut mesh to shape. 6.) marker pen. 7.) air filter foam and filter oil 8.)sharp scissors to cut the foam I used a Dremel tool to cut the old air filter out leaving an edge around the inside of the filter. Flatten the "ribs" in the plastic to give the mesh a flat surface to lie on. Trace the shape of the inside of the air-filter on the mesh and cut to size. Use the silicon sealant to glue it to the inside of the "frame" you've made. I traced the outside of the filter onto the foam and cut it out. The edge of the foam filter is captive between the edge of the air filter box and the edge of your crafted air filter frame. I've done about a 1000 km with it and will inspect it in another 200km when the scoot needs a service. The scoot feels like it has more up and go and it looks like my fuel consumption has improved too. IMHO it was a worthwhile exercise. happy scooting Kiwiscoot So I completed kiwiscoot's air filter modification. Of all his recommended mod's, this is the one I was most jazzed about as having been a former HD200 rider (sold it this past Wednesday to a retired gentleman who got a good deal), I was missing the HD's quickness off the line at stoplights. The HD became quick like that after getting a new air filter, so I figured that it would be the same here. First off, you really do need a dremel tool and a real one. I wasted time by buying a harbor freight one that was utterly useless. Like many parts of the bike, the plastic housing of the air filter is strong, hard, and well made. I had never used a dremel before and I was kind of winging it, so the edge he suggested was quite uneven. Also, I recommend that you wear clothes and shoes that you don't mind having hot splotches of black plastic hitting because that's what happened. I also had to move my scoot too as it was flinging this hot lava it's way...fortunately, none of it made it onto it. I did get a big splotch on my bicep and there are still blisters there this morning, although it stopped hurting after I pulled off the piece of hot plastic. Also, do wear gloves and MOST importantly, eye wear and even face and neck coverage as the hot plastic will be flung onto your face. The toughest part of the cutting out the innards is one of the screwhole eyelets on the bottom where the paperfilter rectangle touches the eyelet directly. So no cutting around it as there's not enough of a clearing around it. I used different bits and was finally able to get that last piece off but I made a mess of the eyelet....nowhere near as clean as kiwiscoot's. I then carefully used the dremel to cut the ribs that kiwi mentioned so that there would be a (relatively) smooth surface for the mesh to sit on. I also used the dremel's sanding feature as well as used sandpaper to get as many pieces of the melted plastic off and to smooth it up as much as possible. I took off too much in many areas and didn't have nearly enough of a "lip" or area along the perimeter of the filter to lay down the metal mesh, but since the plastic itself is hard, it kept it's shape and I was able to press the sharp pointy edges of the mesh into the inner perimeter of the filter. For the mesh, I ended up going to a metal shop here (Industrial Metal Supply) and actually picked up 3/16" inch holed, steel expanded metal that looks like the metal holes on the back of the filter. But I was bothered by the fact that it was 3/16" vs. .25" and after looking at Kiwi's filter, I was really worried it wouldn't breathe as much. So I ended up going with a metal grid patterned rain gutter mesh screen that was aluminum. A little more "stretchy" than I had wanted (the steel with the holes was solid), but it worked. I then added the natural cure epoxy. I also used the windshield version but in clear vs. black and made sure that I had an airtight seal all the way around. The foam was probably the toughest as i couldn't quite get the same cut out like Kiwi. In looking at his foam, it looks like less particles per inch (ppi), e.g. it's more porous and thus easier to cut vs. my thicker and denser Uni filter 65 ppi foam. That also may be the difference as it's just as slow off the line as it was and I didn't notice anything different after I installed it. If anything, the idle (to me anyway) seemed rougher. I thought maybe I overoiled it so I washed it out with foam filter wash, then hot water and soap (even though this was a brand new filter out of the package), let it dry overnight, then oiled it a bit less today and made sure to squeeze out the excess. I didn't notice the weird idle, but then against I wasn't looking for it. So I ordered 40 and 30 ppi foam..the later being called coarse foam. I also got some belrey foam filter oil. I couldn't bring myself to going to just 30 ppi, but I may try it later on. Just like Kiwi mentioned, it may just be me, but it seemed to have some extra oomph! Didn't have a chance to take it on the freeway, but hopefully that will take me over the 90 mph indicated-barrier...mpg increase stats will be forthcoming. ;)Wink Don't know why, but after that one fuel up after putting in the 65 ppi foam filter, I ended up getting worse and worse mpg. Here's what it was right after the 65 ppi filter: 84.93 (basically was on the freeway between fuel ups) 63.05 (surface) 60.27 (surface) 67.22 (more freeway here, but still had surface streets) 59.76 (surface) 71.21 (twisties with not a lot of stop and go and more freeway) and part of this was after the 40 ppi was put in So looking forward to increased mpg with the new foam. I'll give it a while and then may try out the 30 ppi. Back to surface streets the next couple of days so it'll be interesting to see what the mpg will be. |
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Post by radiuswoodguy on Jul 9, 2012 0:15:44 GMT -5
Need some advice on the fuel filter , Just rolled over 30k and have never replaced the filter. I know it is in the tank and can get to it but that all.On my last 1500 mile trip when in the desert the scoot would lose power felt like starving for fuel. Letting it cool only for 10 min, it would run for a short time .It is very posable that i also got bad gas before this problem. Checked the fan it works acourding to specks . Has any one put a lower temperature fan sensor seems high ? Need some advice for the hot rides that get me to the mountains. Has any one run with the silver side panels off would that do the trick? Take Care Keep Rolling
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 14, 2012 7:09:25 GMT -5
Need some advice on the fuel filter , Just rolled over 30k and have never replaced the filter. I know it is in the tank and can get to it but that all.On my last 1500 mile trip when in the desert the scoot would lose power felt like starving for fuel. Letting it cool only for 10 min, it would run for a short time .It is very posable that i also got bad gas before this problem. Checked the fan it works acourding to specks . Has any one put a lower temperature fan sensor seems high ? Need some advice for the hot rides that get me to the mountains. Has any one run with the silver side panels off would that do the trick? Take Care Keep Rolling I would suggest you ask Ootscoot over in the SYMForum as he would know about changing the filter. I had a look in the manual and it does not seem such a big job. I have a 4WD truck that gets hot during off-roading too. I just put a switch in series with the fan thermo-switch and now when the going gets tough I just switch the fan on permanently. Now looking in the Citycom's factory manual I see the fan thermo-switch is open at room temperature & closes at 95-101C. All you need to do is put a switch in parallel with the thermo-switch & mount the switch somewhere where you can switch it on when it so so hot. I am sure running without the silver panels will help with more air-flow, but is does sound like you have some very hot temperatures. Can be that you fuel is boiling in the tank if it is that hot and causing vapour locks in the pump. What's happening, are you not running your scoot as much as you used too as I seem to be catching you up @ 45000kms on mines clock today?? |
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Post by symluver on Jul 18, 2012 19:59:28 GMT -5
phipsd - I now have 10,600 kms on my SYM, (2.5months later from 3,700kms) and I am noticing it is going a bit quicker.. I have had it up to 145km/hr indicated. Haha. Also, my rear brake pads have COMPLETELY worn off already! Doesnt this seem a bit quick? Have any of you guys had rear pads wear off in about 6,000 kms? We dont even have hills here! Maybe I am just braking to hard...
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 23, 2012 5:33:06 GMT -5
Symluver do you ride with your fingers on the brake levers? Could be that you drag the back brake without you knowing as 6000kms seems a bit soon, but then it may depend on your riding style like using the bake brake to tighten your corners in the twisties, which is not a bad thing. My brakes last about 15000kms.
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Post by anonstarter on Jul 29, 2012 6:32:38 GMT -5
Hello from sunny St Ives, Cornwall, UK. Firstly I'd like to sincerely thank you for this fab' thread - it's the #1 reason I'm a very happy and inspired Citycom rider! However I'm confused with the gear oil quantity and your wisdom is needed! 160 cc/ml OR fill until the oil level can be seen through the inspection hole? Yesterday I thought it'll be good to change the gear oil on my Citycom. I bought 1ltr of Castrol Syntrans 75W 90 which is recommended by kiwiscoot... In the manual it says: (http://www.scribd.com/doc/21965498/Sym- ... er_page_45) "Gear Oil: Oil level inspection. Park the motorcycle on a flat surface with main stand. Turn off engine and remove oil inspection bolt. Gear lubrication oil quantity has to be measured with measure device. If oil level is too low, add gear oil. Install oil inspection bolt. Gear Oil Change: Remove oil level inspection bolt. Remove drain plug and drain oil out. Install the drain plug after drained. Make sure that the drain plug washer can be re-used. Add oil to the specified quantity from the inspection hole. Gear Oil Quantity: 160 c.c. when replacing. Make sure that the bolt washer can be re-used, and install the bolt. Start engine and run for 2-3 minutes. Turn off engine and make sure that oil level is in correct level. Make sure that no oil is leaking." And it's here that the confusion began. After warming the scoot with a 5 mile run I removed the said bolts and let the grey/green oil drain... After a cup of tea and a biscuit or two, I replaced the drain bolt. I measured 160ml of Syntrans and put it in... I then kept adding more expecting to see the oil level through the inspection/top-up hole. After I'd put 250ml in and I still couldn't see the oil level, I thought, hang on, the manual says 160ml but the manual innuendo says fill until you can see gear oil level with the inspection bolt hole... :? The scoot was parked on a level surface. I'm now confused, and your wisdom/opinion is needed for the ingredients in the soup of decision...  Sincere thanks in advance. |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 30, 2012 16:34:11 GMT -5
Sorry only now see your post. I fill it until it starts to run out the inspection hole. I normally leave it until it stops dripping out the inspection hole. Time for another coffee while that happens. I don't really know how much I put in as I use one of those pump oil-cans. You can't really overfill it as the excess will just drain out the inspection hole given enough time.
Happy Citycomming.
Kiwiscoot - where it's winter, dark, wet 'n windy & no Citycomming today.
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Post by symluver on Jul 31, 2012 17:33:02 GMT -5
User "phipsd", mentioned earlier in the forum that he said the PGO 250 brake pads would WORK for my 2009 SYM Citycom 300i. Well, I believed him, and ordered it, and waited 2 weeks for the brake pad to come in, and behold it doesnt fit!!! Not even close!!! What the Hell!?!?!?!? So now I have to try and REsell these pads... HOWEVER, does ANYONE on here actually KNOW where I can get rear brake pads for my Sym??? Seriously! Im getting kinda fed up... maybe i shoulda bought a Honda or Yamaha, where parts are easily available.... *sigh* Can someone please help me? (Before shoot the sh!t out of my scooter)  |
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Post by symluver on Jul 31, 2012 17:43:51 GMT -5
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Post by symluver on Jul 31, 2012 17:51:17 GMT -5
Nope, those are the wrong ones. I ordered them, and they arrived today,and are the wrong ones...  |
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Post by symluver on Aug 1, 2012 17:33:52 GMT -5
Symluver do you ride with your fingers on the brake levers? Could be that you drag the back brake without you knowing as 6000kms seems a bit soon, but then it may depend on your riding style like using the bake brake to tighten your corners in the twisties, which is not a bad thing. My brakes last about 15000kms. No, I dont ride with my fingers on the brake levers.. however, i do use the brakes alot tho... You would think they would last longer.. but maybe this Korean sh!t or whatever this is, is not made with quality found on Vespa, Honda and so on.... |
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Post by shoupdawg on Aug 1, 2012 23:24:10 GMT -5
thanks symluver...i had a similar issue with the led bulbs for the brakes, but i didn't order from the website that was offered up on here. i found a cheaper version on ebay and i guess you get what you pay for.
i'll keep an eye on this so i'm ready for when i have to change my brakes.
however, aside from the max speed of 85 (wind behind my back and downhill), i truly enjoy my scoot.
and it's from taiwan.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 5, 2012 20:55:00 GMT -5
Hi Symlover, sorry to feel your despair with the brakes. Front & rear are the same on mine. The factory manual shows the back to be a square one, but my one has the same brakes front & rear. Look on page 8 of my thread scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=200cc&action=display&thread=16772&page=8 for a list of brake pads & part numbers from a number of manufacturers. You should be able to lay the new pads onto the old ones and see why they don't fit. I am a bit surprised as those pads looked like the ones that would fit my scoot. Hope you get it sorted soon & be Smiling Your Miles. Kiwiscoot Brakepad life is like tire life. Depends on your riding style, your weight and remember the Citycom is a pretty heavy scoot. One Vespa owner told me proudly he gets 7000kms from a set of tires & brake pads. Honestly I would be disappointed if I got only that. |
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Post by audioguy1 on Aug 6, 2012 9:14:10 GMT -5
Hey everyone. I am the proud new second owner of a 2009 Citycom. The bike sat in the dealer showroom until last June when it was purchased by the first owner. He bought a Harley and sold the Citycom to me with 3000km on it. It wasn't even dirty.
This thread was the definite inspiration to buy this bike.
I am in the same boat as symluver as the local dealer does not carry Sym anymore.
Larger scoots are of no interest to most people here. They either want 50's so they don't
need a motorcycle license, or if they get their license they want a motorcycle. So I got a VERY sweet deal on this Citycom.
I have been riding a Tomos Nitro for 4 years so this is a big step up. Loving everything about this bike. Only had it a week so far but I foresee nothing but a lot of smiling on my part.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 6, 2012 16:35:20 GMT -5
audioguy1 - congrats on that scoot.
Smile Your Miles now
kiwiscoot
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Post by phipsd on Aug 6, 2012 17:36:00 GMT -5
Symluver: My front pads lasted 8000 km and the rear 17000 km. I had EBC organic pads put on my scoot at the dealer and those pads with 9000 km on the front are 25% worn. I know nothing about PGO pads.
I could have gone for a high grip HH pad, the dealer had them in stock when it was time to replace my rear but that would have just upset the brake balance since as a biker for 44 years I mostly use the front brake. For my style of riding it would make much more sense to go for HH pads on the front if I needed better braking.
Still, I'm happy with the performance of the EBC organics. They are a huge bunch better than the cheesy stock pads and yet are still easy to modulate in the wet.
Due to difficulties with the distributer in Quebec my local dealer has been ordering parts from the US distributer.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 7, 2012 0:33:32 GMT -5
I used an HH high grip pad on the front for a while, but it ate the disk pretty quick. It was SBS brand & it did not last that long either. I find the normal pads (Ferodo I use now) is good enough for my rides, never had any high temperature brake fade which is where the HH pads come into their own . To much grip could just cause a skid or over handlebars situation.
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Post by phipsd on Aug 7, 2012 15:22:44 GMT -5
On a sport bike with very powerful front brakes and a short wheelbase it is possible to do a stoppie if you really try, but on a 400 lb scooter with only one low rent front disc and a long 60 inch wheelbase? Not likely.
It's good to know about the poor quality material used in the discs though. I stuck with high quality standard pads for the brake pad life. I wasn't thinking about the discs wearing. I've never had that problem on any of my Japanese bikes.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 7, 2012 22:47:18 GMT -5
IMHO disk wear is not always an indication of the quality of the disk. I was told that disk wear is part of the design of modern brakes when I questioned the wear on my wife's Mercedes A160 front disks. In all my 31 years of owning cars this was the first one that had wear like that. Apparently it is the alloys they use to dissipate the heat, not cast iron like in the old days. The Citycom's disks does not look like cast iron to me.
I am happy with the quality of the disks at 46000kms and most city riding with lots of stopping. They are still within the factory specifications. From memory front one is thinner by about 0.5 - 0.75mm
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nzray
Junior Dawg
Posts: 8 
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Post by nzray on Aug 8, 2012 0:04:00 GMT -5
Hi all, after reading through this epic thread a couple of times I am now a proud owner of a Citycom. It’s a 2008 model in silver with 12,000km on the clock – I don’t think the engine has fully broken-in yet.
I didn’t even test it before I pulled the trigger and the first impression was great. It makes my commuting on motorway a quite enjoyable journey every day and yes I do smile my miles.
To further explore her potential, I will follow Kiwi’s instructions here for some performance mods and I am trying to see whether I can get my hands on a set of Dr. Pulley HiT clutch. Will update here as I go.
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Post by phipsd on Aug 8, 2012 3:25:30 GMT -5
If by potential you mean the longest lasting most reliable bike possible; keep it close to stock. The more a bike is modified and the harder the machinery is pushed the shorter it's service life will be.
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nzray
Junior Dawg
Posts: 8
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Post by nzray on Aug 8, 2012 19:41:21 GMT -5
If by potential you mean the longest lasting most reliable bike possible; keep it close to stock. Thanks for the advice, phipad. Yes, long serving life is one of those I try to get out of my Citycom but I am slightly inclined towards "reasonable performance gain" from some minor mods around my scoot. |
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nzray
Junior Dawg
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Post by nzray on Aug 8, 2012 19:45:21 GMT -5
Last night I did my first mod: the air filter. Similar to others’ experience, I feel the scoot is starved of air when I need some extra power going up a long steep hill (pretty common in the city I live in) or passing other vehicles at relatively high speed. While I am waiting for the air filter foam for completing Kiwiscoot’s air filter mod MK II, I decided to do something first. This mod is simple and has given me noticeable difference. What I’ve done is using a wire cutter to remove the metal panel along with attached gauze on the back of the air filter. Based on what I’ve found online, the metal panel does the following: - be a fire barrier in an event of accident,
- keep the paper filter in the right place,
- in some rare cases, prevent deformed paper filter from being sucked into the engine (can be possible, if you change your air filter every two years and it’s always high humidity in your area), and
- restrict airflow - which is why I am keen to get rid of it.
After the first ride with the tweaked air filter, I am happy with the result. The engine seems quicker in response and revving up as well. I will see if this has any impact on fuel consumption later on. IMHO, this mod is worth a shot. It only takes 5 mins of your time and has yielded me noticeable difference, provided you don’t worry about the first three points I listed above. Happy scooting Ray |
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Post by shoupdawg on Aug 9, 2012 0:08:26 GMT -5
Welcome to the club Ray. I found that the mid-weight (40 ppi) foam works well. I had the 60 ppi and while it didn't feel starved, I didn't get the mpg bump like Kiwi had been mentioning. So I tried a lighter weight foam. I also bought 30 ppi, but that may be too light. My next big upgrade is the HID lights with ballasts. The ballasts are supposedly thinner, but there's not a lot of real estate under the cowling, what with my installation of the big ass Hella horns. But I was riding home on the freeway from the movies last night and I wasn't able to see that far ahead of me in the dark, so I had to slow down a bit. Got another night ride a few weeks from now so I want to make sure I have those HID's in.
Smile Your Miles.
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Post by phipsd on Aug 9, 2012 3:21:49 GMT -5
Testing done by the tech editor at Cycle; Gordon Jennings showed that the stock paper filters were the most effective at providing the engine with clean air. Oiled gauze like the K&N were hopeless and did a relatively poor job at filtering out grit.
Oiled foam was in-between better than the K&N but not as effective as stock paper. What was interesting was that the most effective were used paper filters; even better than new paper filters.
The cleaner the air going into your engine; the longer it will last, all other things being equal.
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Post by shoupdawg on Aug 9, 2012 13:27:25 GMT -5
Interesting...Phipsd, do you have a link to the article?
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