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Post by wr125 on May 31, 2011 14:06:05 GMT -5
one more side question. my scooter seems to only go 105-115kph on its own with out drifting behind someone, which i can then get up to around 120-125. does this seem normal? i have had a few 150s keep up no problem, and im like...wtf, im wot! all stock! With the big screen on mine it ran 125 kph max. 135 with the small screen now. |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on May 31, 2011 15:22:53 GMT -5
do you guys run an ethanol fuel blend?? If you do then it would explain your lower top speeds. It could be too that your speedos are more accurate than mine's. Mine does have the sliders and the foam airfilter which made a marked difference.
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Post by farkdanarc on Jun 29, 2011 0:11:52 GMT -5
do you guys run an ethanol fuel blend?? If you do then it would explain your lower top speeds. It could be too that your speedos are more accurate than mine's. Mine does have the sliders and the foam airfilter which made a marked difference. did you ever have an issue with the scoot stalling when you stop? i find that if i take off and stop fast, on the first few stops it will stall out. once ive been riding for awhile, its not an issue though. only at the start. strange.... |
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Post by wr125 on Jun 30, 2011 13:48:46 GMT -5
do you guys run an ethanol fuel blend?? If you do then it would explain your lower top speeds. It could be too that your speedos are more accurate than mine's. Mine does have the sliders and the foam airfilter which made a marked difference. did you ever have an issue with the scoot stalling when you stop? i find that if i take off and stop fast, on the first few stops it will stall out. once ive been riding for awhile, its not an issue though. only at the start. strange.... Never had this issue. How many miles do you get out of a tank? I get one flashing bar after 140 miles and get about 68mpg mostly highway. |
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Post by kutch on Jul 6, 2011 13:15:42 GMT -5
As reference for others in the US who is looking for mail order parts, took me awhile to find a place to order brake pads from, but found one in florida. Website is not exactly the best, but it does the job. Got the part numbers from another post within this thread. www.MotorcycleTire.comTR612427 EBC FA427 Kevlar Organic Rear Brake Pads / Shoes 1 $25.99 $25.99 PU17220590 EBC FA264 Kevlar Organic Brake Pads / Shoes 1 $26.99 $26.99 Shipping: Shipping and Handling: $9.99 Looked at scootertrap, and they only had the back brakes. As first time doing it wanted to make sure had correct part numbers. Next time will probably do what Kiwi does, use same brakes for front and back. Happy scooting Edit: forgot to insert website. |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 11, 2011 15:26:26 GMT -5
I would suggest you check out your scoot before you buy brake pads. My scoot does not have the back brake as per the service manual. It has the same brake front and back. The PGO T-Rex 150 scoot's front brake pad is the same as ours.
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Post by wr125 on Jul 19, 2011 13:30:58 GMT -5
what are the tire sizes for a citicomm?
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 19, 2011 15:51:29 GMT -5
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vtbub
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 2
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Post by vtbub on Jul 20, 2011 16:20:45 GMT -5
Can anyone direct me to a site where I can get key blanks for my 2009 Citycom?
I don't really care if it's a SYM key as I don't really use the back side to close up the key hole. The only thing I care about is that it will work and that I can get them in the US.
Thanks!
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 24, 2011 20:33:46 GMT -5
Sorry don't know, but any locksmith that do car keys should be able to cut you a new one. Nothing special about the key.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 2, 2011 15:46:00 GMT -5
Did some maintenance on the transmission yesterday as 21000kms has passed since I last checked things.(36700kms on the scoot now and still going great!) Opened and cleaned the variator as I find the dust gets compacted in the upper part of the roller tracks of the variator and this caused the sliders not to run fully home on high RPM. I was pleasantly surprised to see no noticable wear on the sliders after more than 22 000kms/14000miles. The factory belts seem to stand up well to my riding (75% city/25% out-of-town) as the current belt has 24500kms/15000miles on it and it's still within factory specifications as far as width goes. I did put my old belt back as it only has only 15000kms on it and it is 0.3mm wider.
The clutch developed a slight squeel and shudder on take-off lately. Opened it up and gave it a clean. About 20 000kms or so ago I gave the bearings in the clutch a light grease. Turned out some of it made it's way out onto the bell and got onto the bell's surface where the clutch runs. Just about 2mm on the inside. Cleaned that out and the shoes with methalyted spirits. Clutch shoes look like they should last at least for another 40 000kms easily. They have about 4mm of shoe left on them. The clutch bell surface where the clutch engage was very shiny and polished. Gave the clutch shoes and the bell surface a light sanding with emery paper. This morning it's back to it's normal good behaviour with no squeels or shudder.
One thing I noticed on the variator faces is that the belt seems to run out to about 2mm in of the outer edge of the variator. That means the Dr Pulley sliders use the whole available surface of the variator face. I cannot recommend them more highly. This is the best "bang for your buck" upgrade to this scoot.
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Post by wr125 on Aug 5, 2011 11:01:24 GMT -5
I just bought some 22x25/19g sliders.
Now I have to figure out how to put them in.
I guess I should by a spare belt too.
Where to get one in the U.S.?
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 7, 2011 16:28:23 GMT -5
I just bought some 22x25/19g sliders. Now I have to figure out how to put them in. I guess I should by a spare belt too. Where to get one in the U.S.? Look on page 11 of this thread to see a photo of how the sliders go in. Page 8 has photos & instructions of how to get into the CVT. What is the mileage on your current belt? They will do 20 000kms/12500miles easily. I have one that did more than that and its still 1mm wider than the factory lower limit. Just had correspondence with Mike about a new belt, but the cost will be to much to New Zealand. Here's his details - send him an email and he'll help you out. Mike Hickman National Sales Manager Alliance Powersports Lance Powersports 3788 Milliken Ave #C Mira Loma, CA 91752 Office (951) 361-9000 ext.111 Fax (951) 361-9393 Cell (951) 675-4952 Email - mike.hickman@lancepowersports.com Yahoo IM mikehickman0825@yahoo.com |
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Post by wr125 on Aug 9, 2011 12:56:08 GMT -5
Only 1800 miles on my scoot. Want a belt and an airfilter to keep as a spare.
Stock front tire is out of balance and I can't seem to fix it. don't know if I can go 10k miles on this one.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 9, 2011 15:37:12 GMT -5
a bike shop should be able to balance it with tire weights. My Michelin front tire seems to have gone out of balance too.
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Post by wr125 on Aug 10, 2011 14:25:09 GMT -5
Already tried...no amount of balance weights seem to make any difference.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 10, 2011 23:44:30 GMT -5
Tire may have a bulge or out of round. Put it on the center stand and hold a pencil next to the tire. Turn it and see what the problem is. Check your rim as well. Mine is out of balance after I did an hard emergency stop. Guess it has a slight flat spot now.
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Post by wr125 on Aug 11, 2011 9:11:56 GMT -5
Yeah, the bike sat on the original tires for 2yrs in the showroom probably with low tire pressure too....so........I'll live with it for now.
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Post by radiuswoodguy on Aug 20, 2011 20:01:33 GMT -5
;Rolled over 25000 miles First and foremost I wish to thank Paul and the other contributors to this forum. The maintenance issues are so well portrayed and discussed with such a common sense approach. Having no dealer support they have proved Invaluable. I purchased the scoot from a great dealer with a fantastic mechanic, Carter Brothers and the economy ended my best-laid plans. Warranty and parts where unattainable. The great dealer had to give up and was a catastrophic loss. My attempts to get parts out of Canada and threw another local dealer where futile and very frustrating. I got buy with aftermarket necessities and your advice. Doing my own work is not an issue. I like to understand the job and ramifications the tips provided and pictures have saved my butt more than once. Things I have done Change the fluids on time every time or better. I use MOTOREX scooter 4T synthetic 10/40 {case on hand best way to buy} Metorex gear oil Same Dr pulley slider rollers Michelin gold standard “S” NGK iridium plugs Stock type belt PIAA HS1 headlights Mark 2 air filter (this is absolutely the way to go) Lucas fuel treatment [when needed] ECB brakes Pre mix cycle coolant Change the fluids and do necessary maintenance a lot more often than wash it. Due to a lot of non-freeway riding and the rain that is so prevalent in my location tires are replaced more often. On my 3rd set of tires with another set ready to go on for winter. I ride a lot of remote mountain roads. My aggressive riding goes threw brakes. The scoot is my primary means of transportation. The full size truck and Subaru only run when absolutely necessary Things I need to deal with A bad shake at about 27 to 37 mph have checked run out and balanced tires not sure what issue is. Dealer tried to figure this one out at first no remedy. May some what be a balance issue my pod is packed. The issue diminishes with the pod off but definitely still an issue. Have the same headlight issue most have reported the conclusion given on this web site makes the most sense. Dealer ordered me a new relay but never got it first week I picked it up. Just have to remember to rock the switch {annoying to say the least} Shot back rotor can find an after market front but no rear. Several machinists’ agree the metal in the stock one is of poor quality. Using better brakes they don’t hold up. Things I have done include the wiring issue thanks for the heads up mine was stressed and would have become an issue. ;)My conclusion at this time is Great Scoot that meets my needs, I ran a Kymco people 250s previous to this scoot after 30000 miles the seat is a deal breaker just like setting on rocks. The little extra power and useful power band enhances mountain riding. Fuel injection is wonderful vs. carburetor. The agility and handling is very enjoyable vs. the kymco or any bigger scoot I have ridden. The brighter headlights are very useful. The economy of fuel use and power fit my needs well. Storage is well addressed with a big Shad pod. This scoot is rarely garaged and not pampered and held up very well. I have looked at other scoots and do not see any I would trade for bigger is not always better. This being said the manufacturer and USA distributor have not shown respect for the people that bought their product and warranty and would ABSOLUTE EFFECT ANY FUTURE PURCHASE. The bringing in of new scooter inventory is of primary importance not the customers that got took, or their needs. During the Carter Brother Fiasco, Sym was non-existent I take that as a personal insult they should address. Calls and emails to Canada got me nowhere. The other local dealer stated when the reached a 500 us dollar order Canada would get the parts shipped 3 tries got no result. The brand is very tarnished in the USA market and dissevers it. I couldn't get pictures to work so i will try to link to photo bucket s1231.photobucket.com/home/radiuswoodguy/index |
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 21, 2011 18:16:31 GMT -5
Glad to hear your scoot is still going that well Radiuswoodguy. I found the SBC pads ate the disks too. Seems like the semi-metalic pads do that. I now use Premier brand and use the pads for the front of a PGO T-Rex 150 for the front and back. They are kinder to the disk and about a third in cost. I have noticed no difference in performance and they seem to last just as good.
I notice you have a big case on. Mine has a shake too if I have a lot of weight on the back of the scoot in my case. Not bad, just a little bit. Apparently it is because of the rake angle of the steering and the screen fitted. Weight forward and heavier bar end weights seems to be the fix. Have you tried balancing tire beads? I would like to try them in future.
Hope your parts woes are a thing of the past with Alliance on the case now.
happy scooting & Smile Your Miles.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 21, 2011 18:37:30 GMT -5
Well the horn on the scoot always sounded a bit feeble to me. Not much use when your defenses against cagers are only being visible and making yourself heard. So it was time for an upgrade.... Got a set of Stebel Magnum TM80 for AUS$30. The set comes as a hi-tone and a low-tone set. I opted to use only the hi-tone which is lower than the factory, but seems to have an "urgent" tone to me. I opted to use it without a relay as I only replaced the factory horn. Here's how I did it. Apologies for the low quality photos off my phone.  First cover the front guard as it helps to support the nose cone once it's loose and you try to disconnect the two lighting connectors.  there is the feeble factory unit    factory horn bracket fitted  In it's spot - you would think it's factory standard.  This is a photo from the top. Turn the horn so that it clears the headlight reflector. Easy upgrade that should improve one's defenses. Until next time.... Ride safe and Smile Your Miles. |
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Post by panjet on Aug 26, 2011 9:31:35 GMT -5
Hello everyone in this thread! Such a great thread! I'm happy to join your club as I just picked up a used 2009 Citycom 300i. I have a question for you all: I want to add a topcase rack to my Citycom, and there are only two that I know of. Givi makes one specific to their Monolock series topcases seen here: www.pca-one.com/productDetail.asp?productID=4941Also, CarterBros had one that was supposed to be universal and available through dealers, although, given that CarterBros is no longer, does anyone still have them? What did they cost and were they better or worse than the Givi one? www.sym-usa.com/line%20up/citycom/line_up_citycom_accesories.html (old CarterBros website) |
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Post by furshore on Aug 26, 2011 9:46:20 GMT -5
Carter Bros had a promotion that with the purchase of a new Citycom 300i you also got a top case, rack and higher windshield. The top box from Carter Bros looks almost like the link you gave and the top box is Givi E450 with the SYM logo. The rack is much different and I like it. I am sure either one would work fine.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 28, 2011 16:56:37 GMT -5
Welcome and I'm sure you will Smile Your Miles.
The Givi topcase rack will work with any of the two Givi systems as the topcase mounting base gets bolted to the rack. Earlier in this thread somewhere there are photos and a discussion of the Givi vs Carter racks. My Givi has done 38000kms trouble free and I like it.
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Post by mrpolymers on Aug 28, 2011 22:07:48 GMT -5
Kiwiscoot, I love your countryside there in New Zealand. That must be a two wheeler's paradise. I take video of our rides in the scooter club I belong to here in Ohio (US). I just don't have anything "scenery wise" to compare to some of your pictures. As far as scoots, I've owned a Burgman, Kymco and now a Chinese JCL. Funny how I started with the most expensive scoot down to the cheapest. Guess that's what happens with three children in college. Here is my Youtube site with some of my groups videos: www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNRggWEAGkIGood luck and safe riding.. |
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Post by panjet on Aug 29, 2011 10:03:34 GMT -5
Kiwi,
I saw a long ways back in this post you tried some LED bulbs for the tail/brake lights but ultimately abondoned them due to them not fitting. Did you (or anybody else) ever successfully find some LED bulbs that work well for the tail/brake lights? I'd really like to find some.
I don't think the need to be the actual bulbs that were made to fit the Citycom either. A standard 1157 bulb will work just fine as it is the same wattage. The only difference is the placement of the pins, which can be easily remidied by simply filing on of the pins off to fit the odd holders of the Citycom.
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symark
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 2
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Post by symark on Aug 29, 2011 13:20:33 GMT -5
hi can any one please tell me the lenght of scoot from tip of mudguard to end of rear light cluster. as modded on this forum...
not including mudguard number plate holder,and the width with the mirrors folded in,as i need it to go in my shed
thanks
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Post by wr125 on Aug 30, 2011 14:07:57 GMT -5
Exactly how do you get the nose cone off? I'd hate to break something since you cannot get parts in the U.S.
I also have the front end shake at 30-40mph and tried balancing the wheels to no effect.
I have the small Carter Bros box on back.
The noise I was having from the clutch changed, It now sounds like a slapping noise at a slower frequency. I pulled off the cover fearing a frayed belt or something...well the belt looked fine but when I tried to pull the outer clutch bell ti was way tight. I have a clutch holder and I put about 80ftlb on it and it would not budge...the manual says 40 ft pls for this bolt. What is up with that?
Bike is still performing the same just making a little noise now...maybe I hear it because the exhaust is so quiet?
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 31, 2011 0:04:35 GMT -5
MRPOLYMERS - thanks I will have a look at your videos. Any riding video is good.
panjet - I actually did not find any that time. Since then the 13W slim ones came out. I should really look for them now with the higher wattage headlights and it's now law here in NZ that m/c's should have their headlights on when they are operated on the roads.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 31, 2011 0:11:02 GMT -5
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