Sym Citycom 300i Review + Maintenance

[Kiwiscoot]

Change your rollers to Dr Pulley sliders. You'll love it. Read about my search for the perfect weight here.
scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=27109

Enjoy your ride, miles of smile to ya.
Kiwiscoot

[chaks]

Hey guys

So I just bought the 300i second hand. Doing a few routine checks today and I was reading the manual and the tyre pressure says

Front tyre 110/70-16 52p
Rear tyre 140/70-16 65p

not sure what this means.

Will check oil levels and coolant levels as well.

Pleased to join you guys hope I have a great experience with this awesome scooter.

[chaks]

So a quick question

I downloaded the service book that kiwi supplied, and in that book it suggests that I use 10W-30 engine oil.

Where as the scooter manual that came with the scooter suggests that I use 10W-40.

What should I be using?

Also, what should my tyre pressure be in kpa?

cheers

chaks

[Kiwiscoot]

Lift the seat and look in the underseat bucket. There is a label with the tire pressures. I run mine at 28 psi front and 32 psi back. The factory recommended pressures are too soft as they are for light Asian riders, not heavy Western riders like me.
There is not much difference between 10W40 and 10W30 oil. I run mine on 5W40 which is better for winter starting.
Miles of smiles to ya.

[ootscoot]

These Citycoms bring quite a bit of joy to my scooter shop! just sold another one today, and the customer came back an hour after driving off - huge grin on his face, said it was the best bike he had ridden in years! this happens almost every time I sell one. My customers really do Smile Your Miles!
We start these bikes out with Castrol 10W40, then later switch to Mobil 1 extended performance 10W30 synthetic.

[chaks]

Thanks guys

Will try it out tomorrow!

[chaks]

So I'm having some issues with starting the scooter up.

For some reason it seems to linked with the seat. Does the seat have a pressure gauge that detects weight and is required before the scooter will start?

Because for some reason or another, if the scooter doesn't start up on the first try, if I adjust my position on the seat it seems to work after a few tries. Or if that doesn't work, I open and close the seat cover and try again and it works.

It doesn't sound like it's spluttering or anything. It simply doesn't even try to start. And then when it works, it starts perfectly.

Anyone else had this problem?

Also Repco's having a sale on and engine oil flush. Has anyone tried this and what does it do?

cheers

i'm loving the scooter.

chaks

[Kiwiscoot]

Feb 16, 2011 22:39:13 GMT -5 chaks said:

So I'm having some issues with starting the scooter up.

For some reason it seems to linked with the seat. Does the seat have a pressure gauge that detects weight and is required before the scooter will start?

Because for some reason or another, if the scooter doesn't start up on the first try, if I adjust my position on the seat it seems to work after a few tries. Or if that doesn't work, I open and close the seat cover and try again and it works.

It doesn't sound like it's spluttering or anything. It simply doesn't even try to start. And then when it works, it starts perfectly.

Anyone else had this problem?

Also Repco's having a sale on and engine oil flush. Has anyone tried this and what does it do?

cheers

i'm loving the scooter.

chaks

in the left hand front of the under-seat bucket is a yellow security disable switch. Maybe the connection to it is not plugged in properly. You will notice when you take the bucket out that the switch has an in-line connector about 5cm from it. My guess is that it may not be pushed together firmly as it should be. It has a push tab on the side that needs to be pushed in to enable the two halves to be unplugged.
I would suggest you unplug them and make sure their pins are properly pushed into the plastic housingsand then reconnect them firmly. Check the switch - it should have a positive feel to it. Also make sure the switch harness is not caught between the side of the bucket and the chassis of the scoot.

Switch


The little green connector in the right hand top of the picture is the one half of the connector that's connected to the chassis harness.
Hope this helps.
Kiwiscoot

[chaks]

Thanks for the advice KiwiScoot

I've done the adjustments and it looks like it is starting on the first go now 6 tries out of 6 over 30 minutes.

I'll have another shot tomorrow on a cold engine and we'll see how it fares.

So I bought the scooter off a guy that lived near the coast and theres a slight build up of rust.

I'm keen to clean this off and keep the scooter clean and delay the wear and tear.

I've attached some images of examples







And I just used a rag and water to clean it.

I was wondering if it could use this to polish it and remove rust



and then use some WD40 to protect it?

cheers

chaks

[ootscoot]

There is also a kill switch on the side kickstand that may be loose and affected by movement...

[ootscoot]

and I have used fine steel wool to remove rust. I also use a spray wax to protect surfaces of the bike.

[chaks]

What spray waxes do you recommend? And once i've taken the rust off with the steel wool what should i put on to protect it? Will spray waxes suffice?

I started the scooter twice today both worked a treat. Thanks kiwiscoot!

[Kiwiscoot]

that's a pleasure chaks. Have you considered spray painting the shocks? I would use a rust converter and a nice metallic chrome paint should the polish not do the job.
As the saying goes "Paint can hide a multitude of sins!"

[Kiwiscoot]

Good videos on the Citycom here

www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbQt_szmJzE&feature=related

[edfr]

Kiwiscoot,
Damn, that is a clean engine bay if I ever saw one, sh!t you can eat off of it:)
Lefty

[Kiwiscoot]

ha ha that was a photo when I just got it. I must say now after 29 000kms it still looks pretty much like that - just a bit more dusty. No oil leaks or things like that.

[dimjim]

Thanks for all the fantastic info and pictures, kiwiscoot! You inspired me to upgrade from my '07 HD 200 to a virtually new (30 miles!) '09 Citycom 300i. ;D

It is was one of those Richie Bro's auction buys from last year and the guy was selling for a real good price on craigslist. Has a good title so everything should be good to go.

I trailered it from ~Ft. worth, TX to Oklahoma City where we're on vacation, and I'll be riding it back to Iowa in a couple days. It's about a 600 mile ride, and I'll likely be stopping overnight on the way to break up the ~10 hr ride. Depends on the weather and how crazy I feel

Anyway, I've got it parked and giving it a visual once-over and I see a hose hanging down by the center stand. It appears kind of a light pink/purple color and has a small metal clamp on the end, helping to hold in a black plug. Does anybody know what this is? It's on the left side of the bike ("driver's" side) and it looks like the center stand could definitely kink it. I imagine it is supposed to be secured somewhere out of the path of the stands.

I snapped a couple photos and would appreciate any help before the big ride on Friday.






Edit: Also, I'll be using break-in service intervals as kiwiscoot suggested (oil changes at 100mi, 300 mi). I'll be using 10w30 non-synthetic engine oil. Is any brand of non-synthetic oil preferable in this scoot? I used Rotella synthetic in my HD200.

[Kiwiscoot]

Congrats dimjim - you'll love it and you even get an riding adventure (600mile) all in the same deal. I guess you know that constant revs/speed is the worst thing to do to an engine thats still so new. You will see in the start of this thread how I did the hard break in, which I'm happy I did after the scoot has done 29 000kms trouble free. On your journey just vary the speed and rev's a lot if you do not feel comfortable to do the hard break-in. When you pull away open the throttle wide open to get the engine to work and seat those rings. Try to do as much engine braking as possible the get those metal particles sucked out of the rings.
Now the little tube is standard and should be just there. I do remember I had the same conscerns that it may get in the way of the stand and I rerouted it. It's function is to vent condensate out of the engine. I was alarmed when mine had about half inch of oily watery scum in at first warranty service. That is normal according to the mechanic as some combustion products gets past the rings of the new engine. One of the products is water vapor. He removed the plug permanently as you don't want water vapour from the accumulated water/scum to enter the engine again. Mine runs now with the plug permanently removed.
You will be good with those oil changes and I'm sureyou'll enjoy the ride. Put some pictures up of your ride.
Happy Citycomming
Kiwiscoot

[ootscoot]

Hey dimjim, Welcome to ScootDawg and good call on the Citycom upgrade! you are going to enjoy that ride. yea, that blowby tube should either be checked now and then or unplugged - I leave the plug in on mine and check it now and then to get an idea on what's goin on with the engine...one of my mechanics many quirks...

[dimjim]

thanks for the welcome guys!

Just thought I'd post a quick update that I made it home safe and sound. Rode on Friday from Oklahoma City up to Kansas City. Tried to avoid the Kansas tolls (saved us over $20 between the two vehicles!) which added some time to the journey. We got detoured around a huge semi accident on a county highway which meant I was forced onto gravel and into eating semi-dust

The wind was a constant 20-30mph headwind/crosswind through Oklahoma and southern Kansas which was really blowing me around and slowing me down. Did 2 oil changes along the way for both engine and gear.

Took off on Saturday after having a real pleasant stay in KC. Checked the radar/forecast in the morning and it said rain would be moving in.... So, we're hitting the road and the sky turns gloomy. Got caught in a light rainshower, then heavier. Then hail... Yes, pea-sized hail was all over the roadway. I could feel it stinging my legs a bit. Pulled off right away and waited out the hail. Light rain returned, but I knew I'd have to keep pushing on to get north of the storm.

Anyway, it rained on and off (mostly lightly) until the southern Iowa border, then stopped and cleared up a bit.

I didn't get any scenic shots or anything due to the weather. Just a couple snaps of me and the new scoot.

Also, did as much of the break in routine as possible (broad rpm range, hard accel) but wasn't able to do as much as I would have liked. Probably got a couple hundred km's in the routine before being forced to hit the interstate (we were on a deadline). Friday with the wind and a relatively un broken-in engine was a bit rough, but Saturday I could feel the top end opening up.

Got over 1100 kms on her now and look for many more to come ;D

Anybody got recommendations for a rear rack supplier for the Citycom? Is getting SYM Canada to send a rack to a local motorcycle shop the best route for this? I'd like to mount my Bestem 929 box on the Citycom.



Getting my facemask on for the cold temps and rain on Sat:


About to go get some hot coffee and warm up!


Bundled up for more rain and cold:



Happy scooting! Spring is here ;D

[Kiwiscoot]

Hey that Citycom smile says it all.

[wr125]

Well I just bought one, an early 2009.

It is my 1st scooter after 30 yrs of MC, mostly dirt riding/racing.
it seems to be a very well engineered and manufactured vehicle for it's intended use and cost.

I heat cycled it a few times and rode it locally for about 50 miles before taking it 100 miles mostly highly.

Unlike an MC it does not have tons of power but it runs good at low speed. Comfort and wind protection with the AM Carter BRos big screen if GREAT! The Seat is great too.

Took a while to get used to no clutch and a back brake in it's place.

Handles just fine and I did close on some sport bikes in the twisties on it.

Highway is comfortable but speed seems limited to about 75 indicated. pulls good to 60 indicated then just inches to 75.

Did not want to hold it open for very long on the highway.

Build quality is excellent...especially the paint.

I changed the oil an put an magnetic drain plug in it so far.

I hear a bit of clacking in the variator under power that goes away when WFO and at cruise. Is that normal?

Very nice machine indeed.

[Kiwiscoot]

dimjim - I have the Givi rack which looks better than the Carters Bros rack IMHO.




Look here about 3/4 way down the page for both racks
scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=200cc&action=display&thread=16772&page=13
You need to drill two 1/2 inch holes in the top of the middle trim piece to fit it back between the back lights. This photo shows it without the trim piece. The holes are not visible as they are hid below the mounting plate. The Givi mounting plate has a nice plastic cover which enables one to remove the top box and it then looks very tidy. I could take some photos if you want some.

wr125 - it sound like your rollers in the variator(transmission) are sticking or are worn with flat spots. Your best would be to open it and replace them with Dr Pulley sliders. The info is here
scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=27109
You may need to check your clutch too as the shoes may be worn. How many miles/kms has it done??
The sliders and my foam airfilter modification will give you more up and go if you want that. Filter info here
scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=200cc&action=display&thread=16772&page=14
about halfway down the page.

[wr125]

Kiwi scoot.

The bike is brand new. did it since mile one...now has 220 miles.

Is seems to be a little quieter now but still noisy....much more than the exhaust which is very quiet.

Dealer says it is normal and should go away.

What say you?

Thanks,

[Kiwiscoot]

It could be your clutch. Mine does the same now after 30 000kms and it is the clutch slipping. The clutch bell that the clutch shoes grip on gets polished and then the shoes slip and cause that clacking noise. This normally happens at pull away when the revs are not high enough to get the shoes to push hard against the bell. On mine it is from gentle riding in traffic, where as yours is probably from being new or from previous test riders going slowly. To fix it - pull away with Wide Open Throttle (WOT) every time you need to pull away to get those shoes to grip the bell tightly and roughen the polished areas of the bell. It is a common thing with these bigger/heavier scoots. The Honda Silverwings and 400 Burgmans have the same issue. The way to avoid it is to pull away WOT. This minimises the time the revs are to low to engage the clutch fully. Pulling away gently causes the bell to heat up too from the slipping clutch shoes which cause glasing of the surface over time. I don't think your will have that as it has done only low mileage. Mine may have that as it does happen over a long period of time & distance.
Here is a link to where I share the factory service manual.
www.4shared.com/account/dir/15412986/3c778837/sharing.html
Look in section 8 to see the clutch.
Try pulling away WOT and see if it goes away. Hope this helps. Happy Citycomming.

[wr125]

Makes complete sense.

I have not been WOT on take off and I can feel it slipping for a while until it engages.

I'm not used to scooters and I just did not want to put a big load on it at low rpm for a while.

Although with a scooter it rolls right up to 4k rpms right away.

Right now it only does it at mid throttle opening while crusing ...it goes away at WOT.

I'll give it a try.

Thanks

[dimjim]

Took the new girl out today to the bagel shop and back to get her acquainted with the city streets. Very fun to ride, even on a somewhat chilly day. ;D Got her warmed up and then did an oil change (both engine & gear) as my odo is a bit over 1100 kms after the big trip back (did one at ~175km (both), ~600km (engine only), and now ~1100km (both).


I just broke down and ordered the Carter Made RR for $99 from scootershop.com with free shipping. Hopefully it comes next week so I can get my top case transferred over from the HD200.

I liked the look of the givi as well, but my box is a bestem 929 and I was worried about it not fitting properly with my non-givi plate (or having to buy a givi plate and/or drilling holes).

I'll report back on the install process (big thx kiwiscoot for the install doc!) and how it works with the bestem box.

I'm really eager to wire up and try out the box on the citycom. About a month ago I installed waterproof LED light strips in back of my lens on the Bestem Box, one 2 ft strip at the bottom of the lens will be wired as a running light, then a 1 ft. strip towards the top of the lens will be a supplement to the strip of 4 incandescent brake lights that came stock on the bestem box. You can never be too visible!

Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the Citycom or is it in one of the pdf manuals? I just need to know which color of wires to tap into at the rear harness for running and break lights. Did it on my HD200 for just break light and it wasn't too difficult, just a tight space to work in. Was thinking about a marine grade 3 or 4 pin disconnect outside the bike for ease of removing the box. I used a 2 pin on my HD200.

[Kiwiscoot]

My pleasure dimjim. Do you have the Citycom service manual?? I share it here
www.4shared.com/dir/15412986/3c778837/sharing.html
The last section has a complete circuit color coded diagram.
You are wise to change the oil like that. Did you get metal flakes/sheen in your gearbox oil. Thats normal and good to get rid of that as soon as possible. You will notice on about page 3 of this thread that I changed the coolant to long life coolant too. A worthwhile thing to do. I do a step by step rundown of it, easy to do and gives one peace of mind that the system is running with quality stuff.
I'm curious to see your LED setup. You are right about being as visible as possible. I wear a hi-viz m/c vest when I ride even tho one feels a bit conspicuous. I would like to do the led thing too.

[Kiwiscoot]

Just had a new Michellin Gold Standard back tire fitted. 15 000kms on the tyre is good in my book. Shop that fitted the tire was surprised at the mileage. Guess 31psi must be the right pressure. I asked them about the tire wear and if they thought the pressure was to high, but they felt the wear was pretty normal.They were surprised that the front is still OK. My guess at least another 7000-10000kms.
I'm replacing the front brake pads too after 12 000 kms. The Premier P250 pads lasted really well, so I'm replacing them with the same. @nz$25 a set they are very reasonable too.
As I had to remove the muffler to get the back wheel off, I'll give that a lick of paint too as a few rust spots has appeared on the front of it. Extra high temperature stove paint should do it.
As I had to remove the seat & bucket I had a good look around. Engine is dusty, but no oil leaks, dry as a bone. No rust on the chassis and everything like wire harnesses and hoses look perfect. These scoots are quality, I'm more and more impressed as the 1000's of kms roll by. Fun, reliable and very modest maintenance costs (even DIY friendly). Appart from the odd stone chip the paint looks like new. Can't really say the scoot has done 30500 kms when you look at it.
She'll be good for another 15000kms now.

[Kiwiscoot]

Next week I'll be joining the 20 000mile club.
Well next week my 2008 SYM Citycom 300i will roll over 32 000kms. What an enjoyable experience it's been. Only problems were a horn stopped working which just needed adjustment, speedo wire broke in harness from the front wheel due to being fitted to tight at the steering head and one headlight bulb blown. The Maxxis tires lasted 15000kms and the Michellin Gold Standards then did another 14000kms on the back and the front seems still good for at least another 10000kms. I changed the belt at 14 000kms (as per manual but looked still good for 5-10000kms) and the rollers out to 19g Dr Pulley sliders to tune the rev's done a bit @ 115kph. Replaced both brake pads at 7000kms, 19000kms and front at 29000kms.

Modifications:Removed the back fender to improve the look, fitted top box to spoil the look, use the big Givi screen for winter and factory screen for summer, fitted GPS and phone holders, Throttle Rocker for longer trips, fitted DIY foam air filter which improved MPG and performance and modified the seat to enable me to slide further back.

I use it everyday to work, snow, rain, hail whatever but it lives inside for most of the day. Only rust-spots on the muffler (resprayed the muffler). It gives 3.5l/100kms as tracked with Feully over 25000kms and uses no oil during my 2000km oil change intervals. This is a DIY persons dream for routine maintenance, except valve adjustment(plastics to remove). This I checked at 12000kms and it was still within the bottom (tight) specifications (maybe the full synthetic oil used), I'm leaving it until I can hear it as a SYM mechanic told me in all his experience they have never had to adjust the valves on any of them.

During this time it's done a 1000kms/day, 1460kms/day and numerous other long trips and cruises at 115kph - 120kph speedo speed all day, mountains whatever. Gets a lot of attention from other bikers on trips, who are amased that I can cruise just as easily as the bigger machines and its only a 300i! I've many a time looked at Silverwings, Burgmans and even test drove a T-Max, but fail to see what they will give me more than extra power and extra feul bills. Roll on kms!