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Post by josiah08 on Jul 16, 2008 15:34:53 GMT -5
Good point about the killswitch/kick stand. Currently, mine starts up while the stand is down. I dont think its much of a safety issue....i dont think its going to take off without warning while im sitting on it...like you say, leaving it disconnected would make it easier to warm up while gearing up. Im going to check and see if mine even has a way to hook it up...it would be good to have the option to connect/disconnect..otherwise, no big deal either way.
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Post by leshassell on Jul 19, 2008 0:45:09 GMT -5
I've just noticed that I have no running lights in front. My scoot passed inspection without them but I assume the ambers should be on anytime the headlight is lit. I've looked a the wiring diagram and it appears they only work as turn signals... should I be looking for a way to have them lit at all times or am I just wrong about needing them in the first place?
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Post by jspringator on Jul 19, 2008 7:28:04 GMT -5
There is a 3 position switch on the right handle bar. Try moving it all the way to the left.
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Post by Brand-X on Jul 19, 2008 7:34:45 GMT -5
wait for synth for at least 800-1000 miles.
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Post by leshassell on Jul 20, 2008 1:51:08 GMT -5
There is a 3 position switch on the right handle bar. Try moving it all the way to the left. I tried that, still nothing. I've checked the connection to the switch as well so, maybe its just a bad switch.
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Post by rshervey on Jul 20, 2008 13:13:07 GMT -5
I just got my ITA on Friday, and so far I like it a lot, no big problems.
My only annoyance is the alarm. I would like to figure out how to disable/disconnect it. It goes off if you touch it, or even come near it, and it is seriously loud and annoying. I live in a smaller town so I'm not worried about it.
Anyone help?
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Post by dtwscooter on Jul 20, 2008 13:58:52 GMT -5
rshervey, Press unlock button twice after taking out the key and before the alarm arms itself automatically. This will prevent any noise generation. There is a way to remove the alarm all together, you will need to disassemble the front fairing, the piece below the headlight and above front wheel fairing. You'll need a phillips screwdriver and 10mm socket to remove.
isawhim posted how to reduce sensitivity of the alarm in earlier post. Before you completely remove, you may want to try reducing sensitiviy first.
BTW, the alarm is grey box on upper righthand side as you are facing the scooter from front and with the fairing removed.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 20, 2008 15:59:33 GMT -5
I bought a second hand Xingyue XY150T-6 with 1700kms on a week ago. This is essentially the same model as yours, but with differed cosmetics. The previous owner used it to go to work everyday. Gave it a good going over this past weekend. I found an issue which may affect your model as well. The battery compartment is like a plastic box with a tiny hole in the bottom at the front. Mine was blocked with plastic and rubbish. This caused the battery compartment not to drain any rain water that leaks in there. By the look of it it can flood the battery. I drilled the hole out to 6mm and another behind it for good measure. Another issue was the frame is spray powder coated not dip coated like Japanese bikes. Mine had rust on places where the powder coating did not reach. It was where squar brackets was welded to the frame pipe. I treated it with black Zinc paint. Unfortunately my camera battery was dead, so I could take no pictures. I would suggest you check that out on your scoots. Found the standard factory fault of a reversed fuel filter. Sing I changed it around tho the bike does not idle as smooth, but it may just be this morning in the 5 degC temperature. Paul
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Post by dtwscooter on Jul 20, 2008 23:14:07 GMT -5
I resisted the temptation to 'right' the wrong filter orientation. Whatever particles it trapped in the 'wrong direction' if I reversed it, they will be conveniently sucked into carburator for engine to burn. Didn't want to take the chance so left it alone. I can't see how filter is directional in this case.
Next round of maintenance I plan to get a fresh filter and install it in the right direction.
I appreciate the observation of rust prone places. When you can take some pictures, please post : )
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Post by leshassell on Jul 21, 2008 0:39:09 GMT -5
Heres a pretty good rundown on the alarm system (http://www.oregonvintage.com/Alarm.pdf). You can actually put it into a silent mode if you want. This would still offer some protection as it will at least disable the ignition and flash lights if tampered with. You can also, as state above, adjust the sensitivity of the alarm.
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Post by isawhim on Jul 21, 2008 2:33:23 GMT -5
The light switch does not work. I suggest the alarm adjustment, and using the alarm on/off feature. Plus, put electrical tape over 1/2 to 3/4 of the alarm opening, across the surface, then wrap a ring of tape to hold that tape on. The alarm should be buried better.
Yes, I added a battery-drain hole to the battery, and the side cup, which now houses my remote neons. I also placed a hole in the bottom tray, near the front. Just behind the front wheel, on the bottom plastic cover.
The oil-catch I made from a 16oz water-bottle stops any oil from going into the air-filter. It sits under the seat, just above the frame, near the ignition coil. One long hose goes half way through the bottle, through the cap. The second hose is on the top/side of the bottle, leading to the air-filter. I have a whole 1/8oz of blow-by oil that the bottle captured. I feel better knowing that it is not dripping all over my CVT now. Stupid air filter.
Oh, one more odd thing... Overfilling the gas tank... If you fill above the metal tab (Which I have twisted sideways, because gas around here pumps way too fast.), the fuel gauge will short... looking like it is empty, but it is not... Once the gas drops below the circuit contacts, the fuel gauge will read normally. All scooters do this. I think it is the tank/ground shorting to the contacts running through the fuel. (My old scooters did this when overfull. Don't worry, it is low voltage.)
When I said that I "Twisted" the bar in the fuel-fill... It is still there, not cut. I just reached in there with a pair of needle nose pliers, and slowly twisted it little by little. Instead of being a wide bar that stops you from shoving the nozzle into the tank. It is now a vertical thin and tall piece of metal, stopping you from shoving the nozzle into the tank. LOL
Once I hit 1,500 miles, which is 200 miles from now... I will give my second opinion of the Xingyue, with a full break-down inspection/report. (Ok, everything except the crank-case and the rear gear-case. Nothing in there should change for 5,000 miles.)
Air filter looks spotless, and free-flowing. No major rust, only a few wipe-away spots. Has over 20 days in the salty rain, and over 90 days with morning/night dew. Only about 10 days in direct sunlight. The rest of the time spent was outside, in the shade at 85F, or parked in the garage from 8AM - 4PM (While I sleep.)
I will also relist all my mods. Air-Rams, Oil-Catch, Air-Filter Mounting, Rear Mud-Guard Fix, Idle/Low-Speed Cooling Fan, Alarm Adjustment, Alarm Volume Reduction, Remote Neons, MP3/AMP/Speakers, Fuel-Gauge Adjustment, MPH Adjustment, Fan/Heat Shield, Tank Fill Mod, Battery Tender Addition, Fuel Filter Upgrade, and Side Stand Removal.
I think that is about it... so far...
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Jul 21, 2008 3:37:03 GMT -5
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Post by dtwscooter on Jul 21, 2008 9:11:59 GMT -5
NZscoot, That is detailed inspection! Thanks for posting your findings. Next time I will pay attention to those areas and rectify as it fits. isawhim, While I can't wait for your second round impression at 1500miles, I'm already approaching 2000miles on mine. But I don't have any exciting to report atm so perhaps I should wait to see at 3000 miles : )
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Post by rshervey on Jul 22, 2008 16:45:05 GMT -5
I have a few scooter newb questions for everyone on this scooter...
I attempted to mess with the alarm with the guide, but it didn't seem to correspond. I will try again tonight and see, but besides that can someone take a pic of where the alarm sound comes from? I haven't looked since I am still at work. but if someone is bored that would be awesome.
I am also wondering if someone knows the iridum spark plug number/kind, I want to pick one up on my way home, but don't want to take apart the scooter before I get home.
Furthermore, would anyone have any recommendations on oil? I picked up some 10w 30 conventional since it's new, but is this ok to use? I see someone used 15w earlier...big difference? Is the changing procedure difficult, or is it like other posts?
What about the gearbox oil? I haven't the slightest on what kind that would require/how to do it...
I see people talking about taking a foam piece out of the CVT intake, can someone post a quick pic on where that is? The manual I recieved is utterly terrible, thank God everyone on Scootdawg is here to help me out.
Is there anything else I should look for/change/adjust on this new scooter?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!
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Post by Brand-X on Jul 22, 2008 16:56:13 GMT -5
alarm is in the nose...
the other stuff you can do a search for. lots of info in here.
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Post by wpod on Aug 2, 2008 16:23:04 GMT -5
HI! Don't know if anyone missed me < > or even cares, but I'm glad to see alot of solid value being had by the owners of these bikes and wonderful amount of positive info being provided by numerous fine contributors to this thread. I haven't been around much due to several reasons but I have checked in and read up to date every week or so. Unfortunately I can't add anything that hasn't been said by someone else except to say that the GF is still happy and improving skill-wise and has remained incident free so far . I've spent as much time as I've been able to taking the lead on the mp3 and showing her traffic safety strategies and explaining them as quickly and concisely as possible. I've been considering a 2 way bike-to-bike Com setup, but so far we've been able to ride in and around town and pause to chat every couple minutes so although it would be nice I don't think we'll be going that route until some real road time becomes a part of the program. I've been concentrating on the importance of properly positioning yourself in traffic, at lights and especially ALL the left turn combos that kill (Refer to Harry Hurt Report) as well as anything else I've developed as a self preservation habit, and although she's still quite cautious, she's not "scared" cautious to the point of being a victim of indecision, or paralysis and I haven't seen anything about her riding that has me scared. The hardest part for me has been limiting the throttle on the mp3 , but I'll still take her out on the pillion on the 500 so she can see certain things and get my take without having to focus on riding. I think I've been providing some quality "real world" riding experience without instilling bad habits or "dangerous" moves that would be "safe" for me-if you get my meaning-150 vs. 500cc for example means different considerations regarding pulling out into traffic, etc. BUT anyway, I just wanted to say thanks to all of you that are keeping the good info coming! Good on all of you! Thanks, Mike
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tomh
New Puppy Dawg
Posts: 4
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Post by tomh on Aug 3, 2008 19:46:28 GMT -5
I recently took delivery on a new XY150T-7. First impression is that I really like the bike. I have 2 questions though that I can't seem to find an answer for. How you adjust the rear shocks? Right now, the setting is all the way to the left. Is that the setting for a firm ride? How do you adjust the head light beam? When the high beam is on, the beam is aimed at the top of the roofs. One negitative comment about the bike - the Top Trunk that cam with the bike is really cheap. The lock doesn't work and the thing rally rattles. When you lean the bike on a turn, the trunk comes un-locked. Very un-settleing. Any advise that I can get wouold be grately appreciated.
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Post by jspringator on Aug 3, 2008 20:23:34 GMT -5
What about the gearbox oil? I haven't the slightest on what kind that would require/how to do it... I see people talking about taking a foam piece out of the CVT intake, can someone post a quick pic on where that is? The manual I received is utterly terrible, thank God everyone on Scootdawg is here to help me out. The manual has a good diagram of the fill and drain bolts. You will need a dremel grinding tool to relieve a portion of the cast CVT cover so the drain bolt will come out all the way, at least I did. Simply drain out and refill with Synthetic gear oil in a plastic squeeze tube. WalMart brand is great. Put it in slowly and stop when it won't take any more, and re-install the fill bolt. I've been looking for the "secondary filter" too. I can't find it.
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johnd
Big Dawg
XingHue XY-150T-7
Posts: 22
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Post by johnd on Aug 5, 2008 16:39:49 GMT -5
Thanks for the heads up on the exhaust pipe. Got my license in June and been riding since. Luckily no problems yet, I checked my exhaust bolts yesterday and guess what: only one there. Got right on ebay and ordered some nuts. Only problem so far is my gas guage works sometimes after getting gas and other times it stays on empty for a few days before registering. I plan on rejetting, but what size is everyone going with? And where do I buy them. Thanks. John
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 9, 2008 2:51:11 GMT -5
Update on inspection of a 7 month old Xingyue XY150T-6 scoot. 2000kms rolled past this week. Yoewee!! Nothing to report except for a lost bolt on the rear mudguard where it mounts to the swing-arm. Took the nose cone off my scoot and rust had started on a number of places on the frame and also an the ECU(?) electronic module's aluminum heat sink. The indicator flasher unit is mounted upside down on a bracket with the push-on terminals pointing up. Guess where rain water thru the grill will go, into the flasher unit electronics!. In my experience as an electronic engineer, water and electronics does not mix to well. I squirted silicon into all the connectors and zip-tied the flasher to the wiring harness with the terminals pointing down. Any water will now just run off. I treated all the rusty places with fisholene (treated fish oil). I was glad to see a Gates drive-belt when I had a look inside the CVT. Silicon rubbered the tabs of the air-filter too. Interesting to see only a little bit of oil inside the air-cleaner box even though I do at least 2-3kms of WOT per day. Perhaps it is only a problem with warmer ambient temperatures. Most of my riding here at present is in -2 to 8 degC. I'm using Castrol Magnatec 10W40 semi-synthetic oil in the engine. I'm running with a magnet in the oil strainer. I'll see what that does in another 500kms when I change the oil again. I'm pretty stoked with the scoot, 84kph GPS top speed (90kph indicated) both ways on the same stretch of road on the same day. Odometer over reads by 2.2% as verified with my GPS. I get 73 mpg verified with my GPS on 91 octane. Good considering I'm 6 ft 4.5 and weighs 200lb and we have seldom a day without any wind here in NZ (roaring 40's latitude). A lot of time around 5 - 10 knots and we've had some serious rain and flooding lately. Had a peek at the emission control stuff on the engine. Can somebody explain what the valve do which routes air from behind the air-filter to the exhaust? Does it route exhaust gas into the carb like EGR (exhaust gas reticulation) on diesel vehicles? I understand what that does for a diesel vehicle, but for a petrol engine??? cherio
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Post by dtwscooter on Aug 10, 2008 15:25:02 GMT -5
kiwiscoot, Did you get the CVT belt size while looking over? I'm too happy with mine, it's all I expected and more. Pls keep us posted on what the magnet catches at next oil change.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 11, 2008 2:58:13 GMT -5
No sorry I didn't think to take it down. I thought I would see them anyway when I inspect the belt when it needs replacement. I wonder if somebody could clarify what the electronic module in the nose is? There is only one module in the nose mounted above the front wheel on my scoot. Is it the ECU(?? didn't think such a simple scoot would have so much brains!) or is it an unused alarm module? I found a open connector on the main wiring harness just under the ignition switch. My scoot model does not have an alarm according to the spec's and handbook. I was wondering if this could be an alarm module, but without the other bits for remote start, etc. Perhaps I could get the diagrams to make-up the missing bits or get them from somewhere. I've started building a bike alarm, but could just use these perhaps. Always hopeful. ;D
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Post by Brand-X on Aug 11, 2008 10:53:03 GMT -5
mine didn't have an alarm according to the dealer, but looked in thru the little vents in the nose...there it was. the little red and black speaker, the little square module for it. pulled that crap out. its a battery killer anyway.
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Post by emanyoda on Aug 11, 2008 10:56:38 GMT -5
same with me the dealer told me there was a lawsuit pending because someone started there bike with the remote and it took off and hit a car
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Post by dtwscooter on Aug 11, 2008 14:05:21 GMT -5
No sorry I didn't think to take it down. I thought I would see them anyway when I inspect the belt when it needs replacement. I wonder if somebody could clarify what the electronic module in the nose is? There is only one module in the nose mounted above the front wheel on my scoot. Is it the ECU(?? didn't think such a simple scoot would have so much brains!) or is it an unused alarm module? I found a open connector on the main wiring harness just under the ignition switch. My scoot model does not have an alarm according to the spec's and handbook. I was wondering if this could be an alarm module, but without the other bits for remote start, etc. Perhaps I could get the diagrams to make-up the missing bits or get them from somewhere. I've started building a bike alarm, but could just use these perhaps. Always hopeful. ;D kiwiscoot, see picture I took when working in the front of my scoot here scootdawg.proboards59.com/index.cgi?board=talk&action=display&thread=8929&page=3Everything in the picture is as it came from factory except for the stuff on the right side which is the HID module and relay circuit I put in to drive the HID headlamp. You can see the alarm speaker to the left, the scooter horn to the top and regulator with heatsink on the bottom of the picture. You can also see that this scooter comes with an 8 pole stator, presumed to have more power output than 6 pole stator standard on 150cc scooters. Next time you have the CVT cover open, please take a note of the belt size. Thanks.
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Post by Kiwiscoot on Aug 13, 2008 3:56:03 GMT -5
Hi dtwscooter, thanks for the link to your photo. What I saw must be the regulator, though it is about 1.5 time your one's size with deeper cooling fins. So no alarm. I see your flasher unit, the black box on the left under the alarm ( marked XS-12V) is mounted upside down too. Next time your into the front of the scooter you may want to mount that with the terminals facing down. No rain water will get into it then. Next time I'm looking in the CVT i'll try to remember to take down the number of the belt. That may be a few thousand km's though. I'll give feedback on how the magnet worked when I change the oil again, should be about 4 weeks from now. Checked the range these last two weeks, 195 kms to a tank, in town and that was hard riding as I checked the top speed too during this time. Put in 8.1 liters, that means there was about 200 ml left in the tank. Before I filled up I looked inside the tank and the bottom petrol intake was just under the level of the fuel. Good to see one cannot run the tank completely dry as the bottom fuel intake is about 10mm above the floor of the tank.
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Post by jspringator on Aug 13, 2008 19:19:30 GMT -5
Am I looking at this right? Do I have to remove the underbelly and the floorboard to adjust the air screw on the carb? I have a warmed up idle over 3000 rpm and I need to turn down the air screw. Looks like the idle screw merely adjusts the throttle stop. Is that right?
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Post by Brand-X on Aug 13, 2008 19:45:21 GMT -5
under seat is a little sliding flap in the middle of the bucket. slide it open and the idle is right there.
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Post by jspringator on Aug 13, 2008 20:05:11 GMT -5
I think my problem is best described in this post.
QUOTE FROM isawhim:
"Your air is open too far... you are running off the main-jet, not the idle-jet...
(If you close your idle-jet fuel-adjustment, the bike will still run.)
I am guessing that it also revs high, after you come to a stop, staying at 2,500 to 3,000 RPM, just gripping the wheel with the clutch also.
I am also guessing that it bobs up and down while it idles... faster, slower, faster, slower, faster, slower...
Set your idle-fuel setting to 2 and 1/2 turns out/open. Bring your air-adjustment down until it is about to choke... The bobbing should disappear. Let it run like that for about one minute.
See how far you can keep closing it, until it dies. (You may still be open too far, and running on low-power but still the main-jet. If it gets better as you close it more, you are now in the idle-jet zone. Your diaphragm is no longer bobbing up and down, giving you blasts of fuel/air/fuel/air/fuel...
Now you can adjust the idle-fuel, and it will work... (Now it will die if you close the idle-jet fuel-adjustment too far.)
If it dies, and still bobs... your idle-jet may be clogged. Or the holes that work with the idle-jet fuel/air flow may be clogged.
Mine runs as low as 900 RPM, but it can choke if I come off a stop fast. So I opened the air until it ended at an idle around 1,200 - 1,400... Now it rises up to 1,600 when it is a hot day, on a hot run, after I come to a stop-light. Sounds like it will die at 900 RPM, but it did not die. I only changed it to a higher RPM, because it sounded sick when low."
If I'm looking at this right, I need to get to the bottom left side of the carb. What do i have to remove to do this?
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Post by Brand-X on Aug 13, 2008 23:41:20 GMT -5
rear body panel, seat/bucket
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