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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 15, 2012 10:37:13 GMT -5
OK, checked the valves; the intake was still good (.003 or a tight .004), but the exhaust was back too low (I couldn't get a .003 feeler in it.) Which is strange, because the screw for it is so tight, I had to use pliers to turn it, and even after tightening the nut, the screw hadn't moved.
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 15, 2012 10:49:20 GMT -5
Maybe the valve had to get settled back down in the seat real good from being slightly open.
Yeah, that's how I would get the carb warmed up.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 15, 2012 12:24:17 GMT -5
Good news: fired right up. Let it run for 10-11 minutes, only had to hold the gas a little bit. Decided to adjust the idle first (after it warmed up); strange thing happening: the engine will idle nicely, but then decide to just rev itself, spinning the back wheel very fast. If I hold the rear brake, the engine idles normally.
Ideas?
I cut the motor off, and it cranks right back up, so that's a good thing. Gonna let it sit for a few minutes, make sure it cranks up again, and while I'm waiting, I'm going to look to see where to find the A/F screw, and follow the instructions to do that adjustment.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 15, 2012 12:39:26 GMT -5
I'm trying to find the A/F mixture screw, and I've looked at the Tank GY6 service manual - but I just don't see it. Anyone have a good picture or something to show me what I'm looking for? This is from all the GY6 manuals I have - it's what I'm supposed to be looking for, right? I can't find it!
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Post by chromestarhustler on Apr 15, 2012 13:21:37 GMT -5
there isnt a DAWG in tampa that can go take care of this problem for him.
the a/f screw is probably still covered with the brass plug, since its a 2011.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 15, 2012 13:44:59 GMT -5
I saw the brass plug/cover, but I took it off and it's not a screw, it has a cotter-pin type thing on it (forgot the name, looks like a half moon.) Here's the other example I found, but I don't see the A/F screw in this location either. I have the large circular brass-looking cover, but no screw below it that would allow any adjustment.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 15, 2012 13:58:01 GMT -5
Where that screw is indicated, I do have a flat piece of brass, could be a plug I guess. But how do I get it out so that I can get to the screw? I'm stuck, can't figure it out, so hoping someone can point me in the right direction. The bike still doesn't idle and dies if I don't give it gas.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 15, 2012 15:25:26 GMT -5
OK, here's where I'm at now: Scooter starts and idles / revs very high UNLESS I hold the back brake (so the wheel doesn't turn); if I do that, it seems to idle fine, but the idle / revs go higher if I let go of the rear brake (and the wheel spins fast.) I let it idle for ~10 minutes, and it idles too LOW now, rear brake depressed or not. Trying to adjust the idle screw does nothing - it goes all the way down, still idles too low and almost quits before I have to give it gas and rev the motor myself. Based on this thread: scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=48570&page=1#ixzz1s8tL4WKt, he said: Since the local mechanic at the scooter store took off the California emissions thing on my Taotao, maybe he routed one or more of the vacuum lines incorrectly? How could I tell? I doubt anything is plugged up in my carb (although that is a possibility), but with only just over 920Km on the clock, it should be fine. This is getting VERY frustrating. I saw another thread where the guy said he could NOT adjust the a/f screw since it had a cover on it; another member still told him to adjust the a/f screw" - how can you do that if it has a plastic (or in my case, METAL) plug over it?!?!?
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 15, 2012 15:41:32 GMT -5
Sorry hot stuff. IDK why or where the came up with these non adjustable carbs, but that's going to be a big problem for you. IDK anything about the emission stuff either. Many people just take it off and plug it up when it becomes problematic. I have no experience with the stuff. You can find cheap replacement carbs on eBay all day long for like $30. Or from the site sponsors too.
Some people have removed the brass cover where the a/f screw would be only to discover some other non moveable plug. Go figure. I'm not smart enough to know any other workaround so I would just buy a new cheap 24mm carb. If you decide to go the "performance" flat slide 30mm type carb, be prepared for jetting issues. Sorry, that's all i got.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 15, 2012 15:56:16 GMT -5
Damn. This is basically a brand-new scooter, it's only ~4, maybe ~5 months old, the carb shouldn't have to be replaced already. I'm guessing I'm going to have to take it back to the scooter mechanics and leave it with them again, which means another week or so without the bike. I'm at a loss as to what might be causing this. Reading some other forums, it appears that it might be a faulty fuel pump, as the symptoms match, but I just don't know.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 16, 2012 9:59:40 GMT -5
I buttoned everything up, and it does start, but dies on idle. I took it down to the shop; he's so backed up, we had to set an appointment for the 24th - next Tuesday. I might try to find another shop or something around here, but I have to drive the scooter there, and be able to take the bus back if I have to leave it. Eric (manager at the scooter shop I've been going to) read over my list (I basically listed every problem + what I've done so far), and said it might need a new carb. He also said that Taotao only warranties the carb for 90 days, so it's out of warranty (of course) if that's what it needs.
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 16, 2012 10:37:20 GMT -5
Well, poop! At a loss. Stupid question, but have you cleaned the carb yet? I run a wire through my jets cause sometime the carb cleaner just ain't enough. Even my brand new carb was clogged. Thing is, you really can't see the clog. It just gets a little bit of gas varnish deposits in there and messes every thing up.
You should be able to spray carb cleaner through the pilot jet an see it come out a little brass hole in the front
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 16, 2012 10:39:44 GMT -5
No, I haven't - I really don't know how to do that.
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 16, 2012 10:43:44 GMT -5
Well, you can't possibly make things worse than they already are. In fact, you may end up fixing all your problems and saving money on repair bills!
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Post by slloanman on Apr 16, 2012 23:39:23 GMT -5
yep that is a sealed carb..i ran into the same problem...i ordered a new one for 29.00 off ebay...i think they seal them to pass Calf. smog test...but your in tampa basically at sea level you need to be-able to adjust it...
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 17, 2012 7:59:10 GMT -5
Damn. I can't believe that EVERYONE in Tampa has to do this! Seriously, there are plenty of these on the road, they sell a bunch of them. WTH...
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 17, 2012 8:49:43 GMT -5
Sorry man. Maybe you can just clean it out real good and it be ok. I seeing this plane land with the space shuttle on top. Pretty cool.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 17, 2012 9:28:23 GMT -5
I don't think I can. Here's the inside of my carb (at least, what I think it is!) LOL (Again) scanning for parts, came across this: "Carburetor Choke-Enrichener, Automatic, Electric, 2T & 4T, GY6 50/125/150cc Mechanics Note: This is usually the problem when the engine is difficult to start, won't stay running or runs fuel rich. This is an inexpensive and easy repair." Could that be the issue? Makes sense, maybe mine went bad or something...? They seem to be pretty cheap, maybe I could pick it up locally and just swap it in.
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 17, 2012 10:31:27 GMT -5
You have to take the underside off. That's just the top.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 17, 2012 10:46:18 GMT -5
Yeah it's sealed, so I have to get a screw extractor kit. There's a Harbor Freight Tools right by me, gonna try to borrow my neighbor's scooter to go there.
I wonder if I can get a decent one locally, so I wouldn't have to wait on it being shipped. The first one looks pretty decent...
I know this will sound argumentative, and I'm not trying to be, but it's just hard to believe that I can't get this running without replacing the carb. I'm wondering if I should try to just replace the auto choke first (seems like a cheap trial) and see if that at least gets it running. If that worked, I would just order the replacement carb while I'm able to drive this one around...
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 17, 2012 11:48:16 GMT -5
IDK, maybe just need a good clean and it be fine. You don't seem argumentative to me. In fact I agree with you. The sealed a/f setting should be right at 2 turn out. It would probably be mostly fine. And mostly, it shouldn't need a new carb yet, it's still brand new!
I think maybe some gas turned into goop and clogged something up.
Maybe they put some jacked up screws on the carb bowl that only a dealer or whatever has bits that will fit; so you have to deal with them and they can make more money$$
I don't agree with a new autochoke but that might be just me. I found the price of a carb rebuild kit and autochoke(that's not in the rebuild kit) is the same as buying a whole new carb. In fact, you wouldn't be able to use half the pieces in a carb rebuild kit with the sealed a/f.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 17, 2012 12:12:25 GMT -5
Couldn't wait to rush home and post this.
Stopped at the scooter shop, my neighbor George (who has the same scooter and same problem) just got his fixed. Result: he needed a new carb.
I asked Eric (the manager) if they had any spare auto chokes; no. Spare carbs? Yes. He went into the shop and grabbed me two stock ones, handed them to me, and said "These didn't really work for us. Bring them back when you're done."
So, I now have two spare stock carbs - with the auto choke on them - for me to try. Maybe I'll get lucky! [image]
I found a couple of eBay carbs listed; is there a better "performance" one I should go with, as I'm planning upgrades later? (I might go with the 180cc kit, or something like that; I think I even saw a 200cc kit, but that requires machining!)
In case I wasn't clear, I will be ordering a new carb WITH the A/F mix screw. But while I'm waiting, I'd like to have this up and running so *I* can be up and running.
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 17, 2012 12:32:03 GMT -5
Sweet! I wish I had a scooter shop around me. I have to order everything online.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 17, 2012 12:52:22 GMT -5
Well, I got one of the replacement carbs on there, but it appears that my battery might be dead now. It turned over a bit, then that typical clicking. I borrowed my neighbor's battery charger, and it's plugged up right now. Really hoping this at least gets me on the road.
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Post by wile on Apr 17, 2012 13:15:34 GMT -5
Just by luck did any of the two carbs he gave you have the Fuel Ratio Screw available? If not Take anyone of the NOW 3 that you have and Drill the Plug out and see if the Fuel Ratio Screw is behind it. Wile
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 17, 2012 13:50:13 GMT -5
No, they're just the same stock one I have. I'm not gonna worry about drilling it out, since I know I'm going to order a better carb. Just looking for recommendations on which one to get.
BTW, my neighbors scooter is purring nicely. He took off for a ride.
While I'm waiting for the battery to charge, besides the two eBay carbs listed, what should I be looking for? Any recommendations on models or anything?
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Post by ericrockstar on Apr 17, 2012 14:19:20 GMT -5
IDK. I get el cheapo stuff from eBay no problem. The real performance stuff, I would probably get from www.mainelyscooters.com or any of the other sponsors on the site. They're usually like 30mm flat slide whatever brand. Keilhn or Mikuni something or other. Best suited to go with BBK and Uni and perf exhaust. Prodigy variator or Dr Pulley stuff. It gets in depth quickly. Best bang for your buck by far is variator and transmission tuning.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 17, 2012 15:01:26 GMT -5
Well, she's running, and that's what's really important. I can hear the valves tapping loudly, so tomorrow I'm going to re-do them tighter, maybe .002 or .0015, see how much that reduces it.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 17, 2012 15:08:14 GMT -5
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Post by chromestarhustler on Apr 17, 2012 15:54:25 GMT -5
yes everyone who wants their scooter to run right that has after 2010? scooter, has to knock the plug out to get to the adjustment, if it is even an adjustable carb. wasnt so bad in 2008 as the scooters were not california legal, and most had no plug.
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