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Post by RXguy667 on Apr 1, 2012 11:18:55 GMT -5
Just picked up another 150 but she has a few problems. Cant complain for $500 Starts right up every time, barely even has to turn over. Soon as i hit the starter it fires right up, but after about 10 seconds it starts to idle down and die. I adjusted my valves to .004, didnt make a difference. If i turn the idle screw wayyyy down it will stay running. Even if the screw isnt maxed out i can still ride it as long as i dont let the throttle back. Because once it dies, it wont start back for a couple minutes. It tries really hard, like its right there about to start but wont unless she sits. Ive got a few things ive read up on here im gonna check, but I didnt see a post like this and wanted some other opinions. Thx for your help! Any advice is greatly appreciated no matter how simple. (its often the simplest things we over look)
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Post by terrilee on Apr 1, 2012 11:26:41 GMT -5
not getting either air or gas check all those lines
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Post by RXguy667 on Apr 1, 2012 12:33:21 GMT -5
Is this a proper fuel filter? looks like cork.... Could this be a problem? Attachments:
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Post by mainepeace on Apr 1, 2012 12:40:16 GMT -5
That's actually a really good fuel filter.
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Post by RXguy667 on Apr 1, 2012 12:45:50 GMT -5
I know im getting gas, because as long as im driving its fine, sometimes if i crank back on the throttle real fast it has a hesitation before hauling arse... but soon as i let off it dies, even if im rolling, then wont start back until it cools off a bit. usually just a few min. I was adjusting the valves after i rode it. gonna try it again since its been sitting all night.
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Post by mainepeace on Apr 1, 2012 12:52:27 GMT -5
Idle passageway in the carb is clogged. Clean it out really well.
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Post by RXguy667 on Apr 1, 2012 13:32:35 GMT -5
Just carb cleaner? or SeaFoam maybe? i got seafoam is why im asking lol. Also isnt there a return line? i dont see i return line from the carb. Could it be flooding out slowly? The guys i got it from removed and capped a few things. Just wondering if the capped off a return line...
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Post by mainepeace on Apr 1, 2012 13:59:15 GMT -5
No return line, this isn't EFI. Doubt its flooding. Same problem happens to dozens of people and it was the idle passage that was blocked. You can use seafoam and it may slowly clean out the passageway.
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Post by 12string on Apr 1, 2012 16:18:49 GMT -5
you are going to have to take the carb apart to clean out the idle passage. They make a gallon can with carb cleaner that you can soak the entire carb. Just take apart, soak and blow out all small holes with compressed air. Don't soak any plastic parts. I just did a friends boat engine that had sat for 2 years, you should have seen the stuff that came out of those passage ways.
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Post by RXguy667 on Apr 1, 2012 20:27:30 GMT -5
re adjusted the valves, turned out the idiot who wrecked it before me had vaccum lines on wrong, starts up and idles now, drove it around all day. But has some pretty bad hesitation when getting back on the gas. gonna re check the lines, seafoam, and put in a new ngk spark plug (C7HSA)
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 15, 2012 15:19:54 GMT -5
re adjusted the valves, turned out the idiot who wrecked it before me had vaccum lines on wrong, starts up and idles now, drove it around all day. But has some pretty bad hesitation when getting back on the gas. gonna re check the lines, seafoam, and put in a new ngk spark plug (C7HSA) How can I tell which vacuum lines go where? Local mechanics took the California emissions part off and re-routed most of the lines, and I've been having very similar problems.
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Post by Blueboy5000 on Apr 18, 2012 5:41:37 GMT -5
One of my bikes (2007 Wildfire R8) just had very similar problems. Turns out it was a rip in the decelerator diaphragm.
Vacuum lines: you should have one line to petcock, one line to diaphragm. Even with egr and PAIR you should only have a maximum of two more lines which are usually attached to a separate nipple on the intake. Since your stuff was removed, that nipple should be blocked as it is now useless.
After removing an EGR you should get a plate kit and install it where the EGR was. If the lines were removed and the EGR is still present, your bike will not run correctly at 3/4 to WOT.
Also after removing EGR your carb must be re tuned as mixture will now be wrong and most likely will be rich.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 18, 2012 8:51:59 GMT -5
Turns out my problem was the sealed POS carb that came on the scooter; I replaced it with a spare and it's running fine. Rather than drilling out the screws and whatnot on the stock carb and drilling out the A/F screw (which has a brass cap on it, no guarantee that there's even an A/F screw under it), I ordered a 30mm GY6 Keihin carb from eBay for $34.99 + free expedited shipping.
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Post by HotStuff2 on Apr 18, 2012 8:59:05 GMT -5
Vacuum lines: you should have one line to petcock, one line to diaphragm. Even with egr and PAIR you should only have a maximum of two more lines which are usually attached to a separate nipple on the intake. Since your stuff was removed, that nipple should be blocked as it is now useless. After removing an EGR you should get a plate kit and install it where the EGR was. If the lines were removed and the EGR is still present, your bike will not run correctly at 3/4 to WOT. Also after removing EGR your carb must be re tuned as mixture will now be wrong and most likely will be rich. Is it better to have EGR, or to remove it? I understand what it does (well, basically), but why would some have it and others not? Is it a carb/emissions/EPA thing?
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