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Post by cliftonc on Aug 20, 2011 11:09:28 GMT -5
And yes, the manual is awful. I spent a few minutes trying to figure out how to reset the trip odo, and I am a geek. The importer tells me that they have some volunteers translating the service manual from Chinese/Engrish, but have no idea when it will be done. (sigh)
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Post by budheavy on Aug 20, 2011 12:06:44 GMT -5
Dave you are talking about using handle on df 150 for this right? The article is about mp3 so not sure. I have tried and can be done but, not easily. Thanks for getting back to me on this. Yes, I was curious if the Chinese version could duplicate the MP3 and it sounds like it can but with some attention included. I wonder if anyone could modify this to replicate the MP3? I do not own one of the chinese trikes but our friend has the MP3 and she likes the locking feature when she approaches stoplights. Dave
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Post by cliftonc on Aug 20, 2011 12:36:28 GMT -5
No, it can't exactly. The MP3 can do its locking thing with the scooter straight up when the scooter stops on a surface that is not level side-to-side; the Chinese version cannot - it would end up locked with the scooter leaning, which would be a big danger when starting again. When I was looking, I rode the MP3 a few times, both the 250 and the 500, but could not afford either. I bought the Chinese scooter as a compromise, as what I could afford. They are not the same, and do not operate the same, and the Chinese scooter cannot "replicate" the MP3. Different system.
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Post by ridencuss on Aug 22, 2011 9:13:04 GMT -5
We all seem to be in the same boat. I have gotten no help from motobuys tech at all. I hope we can get some more direction (manual) on this. We have gotten more from this forum then anywhere else. Thank God for that. Thinks like using the tilt lock and governor kicking in are important for use. Keep posting and maybe as a group we can force a manual to be completed. I think for safety reasons we need to have this. Keep on trying be safe and keep up the posts. GOOD LUCK !!!
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Post by sarge707 on Aug 22, 2011 12:13:44 GMT -5
I found a way for to stop the beeping. In front of the 2 contacts there are 2 nuts to adjust- You adjust 2 much one way and it gets stuck in level mode - 2 much adjustment the other way and you are stuck in leaning mode- When you get it perfect BOTH modes work but the cable is lazy when you release it so many times it doesn,t touch the contacts and the buzzer/ governor (At 2,400 rpms) kicks in. Solution for me was 2 elastics wrapped around cotter pin in front cable area and run between the 2 wires on the back of the contact part then back looped lover the cotter pin. Now when I release the lever the elastics assist the cable to close on the 2 contacts. Ther was a New U-Tube on Sunny DF150 Trike of some kids that got a red one ALL put together and they promise some ride video,s IF they get it started???
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Post by medman1952 on Aug 22, 2011 13:57:57 GMT -5
I found a way for to stop the beeping. In front of the 2 contacts there are 2 nuts to adjust- You adjust 2 much one way and it gets stuck in level mode - 2 much adjustment the other way and you are stuck in leaning mode- When you get it perfect BOTH modes work but the cable is lazy when you release it so many times it doesn,t touch the contacts and the buzzer/ governor (At 2,400 rpms) kicks in. Solution for me was 2 elastics wrapped around cotter pin in front cable area and run between the 2 wires on the back of the contact part then back looped lover the cotter pin. Now when I release the lever the elastics assist the cable to close on the 2 contacts. Ther was a New U-Tube on Sunny DF150 Trike of some kids that got a red one ALL put together and they promise some ride video,s IF they get it started??? It would be nice if you posted a photo of your solution.
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Post by dayseedee on Aug 22, 2011 17:53:20 GMT -5
dayseedee, I had a problem starting because the fuel pump was hook up backwards. I hope you didnt try starting to much as I ended up replacing fuel pump and carburetor as it clog up from trying dry. The pump should be covered and I would make them replace it as it could be damaged. Also my fuel line was disconnected at tank. Pull cover over tank to check that. Good luck and I hope you enjoy you new trike. Keep posting as it helps us all.. well the scooter started for a long while on Friday, Today we are back to square 1! My mechanic has given up on it so now it is in the hands of a scooter specialist that specializes on chinese scoote. So glad i found him! Will keep you posted!
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Post by dayseedee on Aug 22, 2011 17:59:36 GMT -5
I found a way for to stop the beeping. In front of the 2 contacts there are 2 nuts to adjust- You adjust 2 much one way and it gets stuck in level mode - 2 much adjustment the other way and you are stuck in leaning mode- When you get it perfect BOTH modes work but the cable is lazy when you release it so many times it doesn,t touch the contacts and the buzzer/ governor (At 2,400 rpms) kicks in. Solution for me was 2 elastics wrapped around cotter pin in front cable area and run between the 2 wires on the back of the contact part then back looped lover the cotter pin. Now when I release the lever the elastics assist the cable to close on the 2 contacts. Ther was a New U-Tube on Sunny DF150 Trike of some kids that got a red one ALL put together and they promise some ride video,s IF they get it started??? lol! That is me and my sister! And, no it will not start! It is at the mechanics shop as we speak!
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Post by dayseedee on Aug 23, 2011 16:51:55 GMT -5
Ok guys & gals--my scooter is rocking and rolling now. The carb was cleaned out and started right up! Woooohoooo! The mechanic took it out for a ride and wasnt happy with the wobble so he added some weights to the front tires and now it is as smooth as a baby's butt. We are the only ones here in Corpus Christi. TX with one so all heads will be turning! If you want one of these trikes, go to Supersportz.com and get you one they are truly the best to deal with.
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Post by sarge707 on Aug 23, 2011 17:15:25 GMT -5
The Wobble- When I started to Go the front end wants to lean to one side or the other and it has been impossible for me to go far enough to put my feet up without the fear of it just laying over. I had a Honda reflex and never had a problem on the initial start but I just don,t feel this thing is going to stay straight and NOT fall over? Thats why I,m selling it. Can you shed any light on this problem? Mine runs Great But I have been working on it for a month.
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Post by ridencuss on Aug 24, 2011 9:22:40 GMT -5
The Wobble- When I started to Go the front end wants to lean to one side or the other and it has been impossible for me to go far enough to put my feet up without the fear of it just laying over. I had a Honda reflex and never had a problem on the initial start but I just don,t feel this thing is going to stay straight and NOT fall over? Thats why I,m selling it. Can you shed any light on this problem? Mine r uns Great But I have been working on it for a month. sarge you can start locked center and release as you get balance. It is hard to engaged as you slow down and I dont think it was meant for that. I would like to get more information from dogfang to find out the ideas for this lock. To all remember if its beeping the governor may be active and you will get a acceleration change. My experience is that not every time you hear beeper is the governor on. I am thinking the two different contact may be why with one for beeper and one for governor (not sure any ideas)
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Post by ridencuss on Aug 24, 2011 9:37:01 GMT -5
I now have about 50 miles on with few problems. One is the contacts for the beeper sticking which I will address. Not sure why but sometimes cable works good and then not. Not sure the reason for that. Back to riding I have done most of my riding in a small pking lot next to my house. I rode 30 miles of circles and figure 8's before reaching a comfort zone. Everytime out felt better and then at around thiry miles of practice it came to me. I am not an expert but, I beleieve that I started counter steering and that helped. Most of my practice was at slow speed so had to keep good balance. Best to everyone.
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Post by cliftonc on Aug 24, 2011 14:33:10 GMT -5
Sarge, I have been mulling over your description of what happens when you start moving, and the only thing that comes to my mind is the front wheels being out of line. That would cause it to try to steer in one direction or the other. I think that is where I would start. I think that what dayseedee was describing when she said "wobble" was tire balance, thus her guy adding weights to the wheels. Think about whether yours would be better described as a "swerve". My alignment was good out of the box, but that does not mean yours would be. When one of my front tires started separating, that is what I noticed; more of a "swerve". Just sayin'.
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Post by sarge707 on Aug 25, 2011 9:25:26 GMT -5
Cliftonc- Thanks for the insight. Now that I think about it the handlebars have about 1/4 to 1/3 inch play when centered. I,m thinking as soon as I give it some gas it wants to wander to one side or the other thus not tracking straight. Also when I went around the block a few times with the centering lever on it seemed to wander from one side to another instead of tracking straight.
Wondering how to adjust this? I would rather it worked right than loss several hundred in a Sale!!
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Post by ridencuss on Aug 25, 2011 9:50:19 GMT -5
Cliftonc- Thanks for the insight. Now that I think about it the handlebars have about 1/4 to 1/3 inch play when centered. I,m thinking as soon as I give it some gas it wants to wander to one side or the other thus not tracking straight. Also when I went around the block a few times with the centering lever on it seemed to wander from one side to another instead of tracking straight. Wondering how to adjust this? I would rather it worked right than loss several hundred in a Sale!! Again no manual to help with these kind of things. Maybe we need to demand or at less fight for one to be made. Any ideas how to go about this?
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Post by cliftonc on Aug 25, 2011 10:25:33 GMT -5
Sarge, I have a 4 ft aluminum level, and my brother has an identical one. we clamped them to the inside of the tires so that they were sticking out front and back, and measured the distance between at the front and rear of the levels. Mine measured out with the front of the levels 1/8" closer than the rear, which should be about right. The tie rods that extend from the steering thing on the bottom of the handlebar shaft to the hubs on each side are threaded for adjustment. If you know anyone local that does alignment on cars, they may be able to help with this. Your description of the way it is acting brought back thoughts of my daughter's car when she was a teenager; she once cut a corner wide in the school parking lot and ran over a parking space barrier - it bent one of the tie rods, and threw the front end out of line enough that it was trying to "swerve" a bit. I junkyarded the tie rod, and took it to the local shop for alignment. Mine bothers me because of that "looseness" in the steering generally; when I have more energy and motivation, I am going to get up under there and see what I can do to tighten everything up a bit...
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Post by cliftonc on Aug 25, 2011 10:30:51 GMT -5
The importer guy (Sunny Motorsports) tells me that they are translating one from Chinese/Engrish, but it is slow going...
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Post by sarge707 on Aug 25, 2011 11:42:05 GMT -5
I,m wondering if there is a way to get that 1/3 inch loose movement within the handlebars out so there tight.
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Post by sarge707 on Aug 25, 2011 11:55:07 GMT -5
Ridencus- Here is a picture of what I did- Put a elastic over the front cotter pin and ran it in back of and between the 2 wires on the back of the contact piece then looped it back over the cotter pin. I put 2 elastics. Now when you release the lever the elastic helps the LAZY cable make contact with the 2 contacts. Also the front 2 adjustment nuts where the ca ble threads through the frame determine how far the leverer prong (About 3 inches below) extends into the leveling socket. If you loosen the front nut and tighten the rear the leveler will not engage- If you loosen the rear nut (A lot ) and tighten the front the leveler will be on even when you release the cable. Attachments:
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Post by savy09 on Aug 25, 2011 12:51:44 GMT -5
Sarge, I'm with cliftonc, sure looks like tie-rod adjustments, go to a front end alignment shop they will correct the tie rods and any toe in or out, and balance tires just like they do on a car. My 2 cents, if you want to prep it to sell --savy
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Post by dayseedee on Aug 25, 2011 21:42:08 GMT -5
Sarge, I have been mulling over your description of what happens when you start moving, and the only thing that comes to my mind is the front wheels being out of line. That would cause it to try to steer in one direction or the other. I think that is where I would start. I think that what dayseedee was describing when she said "wobble" was tire balance, thus her guy adding weights to the wheels. Think about whether yours would be better described as a "swerve". My alignment was good out of the box, but that does not mean yours would be. When one of my front tires started separating, that is what I noticed; more of a "swerve". Just sayin'. when my mechanic said "wobble" he said it was uncontrollable so im guessing he meant swerve, he did say it would go every which way but straight!
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Post by sarge707 on Aug 26, 2011 12:09:40 GMT -5
Sounds Like mine- When you give it enough gas to start picking up your feet (Onto the floorboards) It just leans one way or the other and you hit the brake QUICK! I,m going to try the tye Rod adjustment since I see some articles on it and I have plenty of time. Thanks
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Post by stewali on Aug 26, 2011 16:46:28 GMT -5
sarge707, my scooter is find I did have to tighten up the bolts on the tye rod arms I,m not talking about the tye rod arms adjustment but the ones with the carter pins in them this takes a lot of play out of the steering. 500 + miles.
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Post by stewali on Aug 26, 2011 16:47:44 GMT -5
ps their is like eight places to tighten up
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Post by sarge707 on Aug 26, 2011 17:19:23 GMT -5
Stewali- Thanks - I just went out and saw the 8 bolts with the cotter pins you mentioned and I thought they were OK BUT I will tighten them after the storm and maybe it will help!! Thank Goodness we have this forum because the manufacturer is certainly No help? Thanks for the Tip!!
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Post by sarge707 on Aug 29, 2011 12:47:29 GMT -5
Allignment\ I measured from the front edge of rims and got 31 1/4 . From about 2/3 rds way back it was 32. (Body in way after that) For the full length I figure (estimate) 32 1/4 . Front is 1 whole inch toe in compared to back. Should be 1/8 to 1/4?? Measured the tye rods from adjustment bolt to adjustment bolt. One side 8 1/2 inches---Other side 9 inches. When I sit on scoot and look straight ahead (And Down) the suspension A arms on the left side appear to stick farther out from the body than the right.
I think I will turn in the tye rod which is 9 inches until its 8 1/2 inchs like the other. This should close the toe in gap and at least get the tie rods the same length for future adjusting? Sound OK?
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Post by cliftonc on Aug 29, 2011 16:56:19 GMT -5
Sounds OK for a start point.
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Post by ridencuss on Aug 30, 2011 19:21:32 GMT -5
I have been working on my tie rods also. I was able to turn one way without any trouble but, when turning the other way felt as if I was over to far. What I did was level the bike. After getting level dropped a plum bob from center of frame. From this point I measure from center of frame to center of tire. While adjusting tie rods measure from same place on frame to center of tire. After working at this was able to get the same measurement on each side. I believe from my frame point to tire ended 17 1/2 inches. I also tighten up all bolts and the difference in handle are like day and night. Another good point of observance is to watch the distance between tire and fender when turned fully.
I also stopped beeping by placing a piece of 2 sided sticky tape to plunger. I left the paper on contact side and has work great. Also check screws in center level handle area. There are three screws that hold this together. Mine were loose and that also help with taking play out of cable. It also made it somewhat easier to use.
Good luck to all and hope you are starting to enjoy your ride.
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Post by ridencuss on Aug 30, 2011 19:28:00 GMT -5
I should of stated watch distance between fender and frame when adjusting rods. Mine stop just about a 1/2 inch short on each side. Before adjustment one side would hit frame.
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Post by dayseedee on Aug 30, 2011 22:09:55 GMT -5
youtu.be/zvgdMbwEqUYThis is the video of the 50cc one that looked easy to ride if the "Big Guy?" can ride it. There is also one of him riding it over big rocks and gravel parking lots? He must be a Pro!! I have already got rid of packing stuff and painted some parts Sooo all I can probably do is get it Running and sell it Brand New to a younger kid! Any thoughts? I hope Losmandeals can elaborate on the problem areas of riding it? how did you prep your trike before painting? It looks very pretty! I would like to paint mine with pink where you have yellow.
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