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Post by apittington on Apr 22, 2011 8:03:18 GMT -5
My fingers are crossed!
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Post by scottish1 on Apr 23, 2011 17:58:27 GMT -5
what a shame. now it just dies after riding it a few minutes. no bogging down, just dies. at this point more than likely i need a new carb because it's probably a sticking float but i'll never know because the bolts are totally frozen onto the carb. nope tried vice grips too. at this point i am pretty sure i have a thousand dollar paper weight because this qlink pegasus 150 although very slick looking is a complete pile of junk.
I did give the shop where I bought it a call and the guy at Discount ATV on Cave Creek Road, supposedly their service guy... has no idea what kind of carb goes on it, (i know but when he said he had one in stock and it was completely different...) he had no idea that there are no TDC marks on the flywheel, basically shows me that he either has never adjusted valves on this particular scooter or just tired to b.s. me. (and believe me I know there are no TDC marks on the flywheel because I just had my stator cover OFF and LOOKED) NO WONDER they wanted my debit card instead of a credit card on this scooter because I would stop payment so fast it would make their tiny minds spin. worst shop ever.
I have found you people on the scooter forum to be very helpful, but I have found that people selling parts really basically prefer that you have a lot of problems because they make more money that way. I for one, am at the end of my love affair with my scooter. I will continue to work on it and attempt to salvage some value from it but I am very very disappointed with myself and many many people I have interacted with in the scooter business.
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Post by sprocket on Apr 23, 2011 18:37:55 GMT -5
You need to go back to basics.. fuel and spark.
When it dies check the spark plug and see if you have a spark. Just carry another plug with you to test...doesn't take a second. No spark.. then it is pick-up coil, CDI, ignition coil or spark plug boot. One is failing. To replace them all would cost under $50.
If you think it is the carb buy another carb.. they are like $35 on Ebay!
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Post by scottish1 on Apr 23, 2011 21:49:00 GMT -5
it has a new spark plug. it has a new pick up coil installed. it has a new CDI installed. it has a new ignition coil/spark plug boot installed. it has a new stator installed. it has all new vacuum and fuel lines installed. it has the valves adjusted, it has the carb adjusted and it's a piece of junk. i know you are trying to help dog, but the carburetor this scoot needs is a very cheap piece of worthless tin that no one sells anymore (yes i researched it thoroughly and yes i looked on ebay) and i would rather spend 100 on a brand new upgrade performance carb.
it's not about being inexpensive to get parts. for me it's about finding out which %$&$%#& part will fix the (*%%& thing. yes yes i know.. recheck the systems and basics. everyone tells me the saaaame thing.. 'well i just couldnt help you unless i had a look at it !' oh really... what exactly would you do THEN? it gets spark !!!! it just %^&%^&^& stops in the middle of the %&%$&^ road now !!!! so .. it has to be fuel right? pffffff maybe, who knows. maybe the carb like i said.. but i'm not gonna spend any more time in here guessing. like i said you guys have been great, but i'm tired of wasting your time and mine on this.
i guess it's about time to stop this thread. the fun is gone. p.s. i have been very very patient and friendly and understanding in working with people in the scooter business.. and now i'm not. p.s.s. sprock.. you are awesome and you are right. i'll keep trying k.. but i'm at the end after the carb.
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Post by boscowtx on Apr 23, 2011 22:35:43 GMT -5
Watching this post very carefully, having the same propblems with a 2009 Fly Scooter De Lavi, 150cc with less then 100 miles on it. Bought it Wed 20 April 11! If you find a solution please let me know. I bypassed my fuel filter, will wait for daylight to do the run of 9 miles as well!
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Post by boscowtx on Apr 24, 2011 11:47:20 GMT -5
Another run of 8 miles, and the scooter bogged down and sounds as if overheating. Am running the fuel line directly to vacuum pump, minus the fuel filter. Only other item I have not changed it the carburator, that will be the next move. Will have my mechanic do that. If that does not fix the problem, will try and get what ever I can out of it, and either buy a used vespa or Kymco.
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Post by ariot on Apr 25, 2011 1:34:40 GMT -5
I would not run it without a fuel filter, junk in jets= bad rinning. try disconecting vacuum line from intake and just plug in fuel pump line it will increase fuel pressure a little bit, if it still does the same then take carb off try liquid wrench and let it soak in use liberally then try vice grips and screw driver with a little help from a friend to get the bowl off so you can see whats inside. when you do get the bowl off CLEAN IT, CLEAN IT, THEN CLEAN IT AGAIN! Fuel is a coolent. hope this helps.
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Post by timelancer on Apr 25, 2011 8:37:07 GMT -5
scottish, I would try just one more thing before you give up completely. Get a compression tester, and see what kind of PSI you are getting, stock gy6 models generally sit around 125psi +/-5psi. I know that this is highly unlikely to be the problem, but I had a similiar problem with a 50 that would run for short runs, then just lose power after warm up. turns out the piston was C^@&, put in a 72cc BBK and never had a problem after dialing in the carb....
Also you can get those screws off of the carb with an IMPACT DRIVER not IMPACT WRENCH, this device has broken many a screws on carbs that I thought were impossible to get off. I would hate to see someone completely dissatisfied with a scoot because of one ridiculous problem, and yes a lot of times you do "have to see it" to diagnose a problem, wish you had some pics/ vids of your work done, and how it runs now on the stand, would help us diagnose the problem, also you never mention if you test this in your driveway or not, wondering if it still is apparent with no load on the vehicle.
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Post by apittington on Apr 26, 2011 5:07:54 GMT -5
^^^ I'm with him on the impact driver, they sell them at harbor freight, and they are a lot cheaper than a new carb.
It also could not hurt to check your compression, since the top end expands as it heats up. If you don't want to buy a compression tester, you can use the Lefty method. Remove your spark plug, stick your finger in the hole, and crank the engine. If it has good compression, it should push your finger out of the spark plug hole. This will at least let you know if you have compression while it is cold. If it seems weak, or you want to test it while hot, you gonna need to get the tester to check it, as shoving your finger in the spark plug hole while the engine is hot would not be fun...
I have also been wondering this whole time if the scoot dies if you just let it sit on the center stand. Like he said, stuff it hard to diagnose without being able to see and touch. There are always so many little things that can be wrong, and a lot of them all have the same symptoms, or symptoms that are hard to tell apart based on descriptions.
I don't see any reason to end this thread. Not without a resolution. Either you will find the problem, or get rid of your paper weight. We are not giving up, so we will be here to help.
Take time to cool off. Working on it while frustrated narrows your vision, and your less likely to spot that one little thing you did not notice before. I know its frustrating. believe me, all of us here know. You will have to try hard to find someone here who has NEVER had a problem with their Chinese scoot... Not unless they have had it for less than a week, and hell, even then some of them don't run out of the crate!
Adrian
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Post by twhittico on Apr 26, 2011 9:51:14 GMT -5
IT COULD BE THE SIDE KICK STAND, MY 2008 PEGASUS 150 HAS A PARK LIGHT THAT GETS INGUAGED WHEN THE KICK STAND IS DOWN. MY THOUGHTS I HAVE BEEN FOLLOWING THIS FROM THE START, PRAYING TO THE SCOOTER GOD FOR HELP
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Post by scottish1 on Apr 30, 2011 19:44:59 GMT -5
today i put on a new carburetor and although it decided to just friggin QUIT while warming up on the stand, it did give me a trouble free ride of about six miles after that. i didn't mount the 30mm carb i got from scrappy, don't really want to ream out the stock manifold to fit it, so i got another standard one from scootermotoparts 25mm which took them a long time. i think that i'll run it stock for awhile and see if it can be dependable first then maybe get a uni air filter and install the 30mm. the friggin screws to get to the float are frozen on the new carb too, but i installed it anyway in hopes that one day when i need to clean it i can get them off. at least it has lock washers on it which is more than i can say for the chinese one.
i can't really say if it's fixed. i am completely drained on trying to figure out why it craps out. i've replaced just about everything as y'all know. i am going to only try to ride it on weekends whereas its original intent was to ride to work during the week. it seems like every ride is a test drive now. it will take a long time for me to trust it enough to drive it to work.
to answer questions... i suppose it must have compression for me to be running it recently up at 50 mph for a few miles and near my house. i'll keep an eye on that.. ya need spark , fuel AND compression, lol. a long run will be needed to see if bog down again because my troubles earlier could easily be an overheated top end that craps it out. test driving out on the road is the only way i really count on to test it. it never did bog down on the stand where i've had that problem for sooo long.
the whole bogging down and overheating thing.. i don't really know yet if it's going to do that again but i will be running it some more and driving it around. the new stator and trigger may have solved that.. but it's really hard to say yet because i had to get a new carb because i had spark and fuel and it would just STOP for no reason then wouldnt start. (and carb screws were siezed so i couldn't clean the jets)
it has a nice idle, good throttle response and a nice vroom, and if you see how sweet my vacuum and fuel lines are it'd be like wow.. no reason this scoot shouldn't scoot. and then i imagine there'd be a video of me driving past real fast and zooming down the road. and of course it's all too easy for me to imagine me waiting to start it again because it died or bogged. (omg two DIFFERENT friggin problems yeah i know). so i guess i'll let you know which one rears it's ugly head. if i was to do a video of my scooter.. no one would believe that a scooter that runs that well would have such insanely horrific problems staying running.
this scooter owes me now.
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Post by thewahls7 on Apr 30, 2011 22:46:48 GMT -5
Well once you figure out if it is the carb or not, you will seriously have some nice upgrades that will keep you from having issues down the road, not to mention some spare parts.
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Post by scottish1 on May 1, 2011 1:26:43 GMT -5
well finally maybe i did something right. today it did run as i said above.. but then wouldn't start at all later! and of course it had sudden QUIT running issues. so i checked for spark. hmm nothing, traded out to my old coil, no change. traded out my full race expensive fancy yellow cdi with timing advance with the original cdi. SPARK! runs! SO! one or two days... intermittent quitting. FINALLY when it won't start at all, because the yellow cdi FAILED, i trade out a part and it actually proved it was the cdi. that should probably fix the quitting issues. now comes the big test. will this scooter run twenty or more miles without bogging down and having to be restarted? based on this new development i will be ordering a new cdi for a back up. omg this is just nuts ! i have parts all over the place !!! so it probably wasn't the carb after all but i needed a new one anyway. and besides i now have a racing carb to install too if the bogging down issue is fixed. believe me i'm in no hurry to 'upgrade' now. so to all you experienced dogs out there that have been through this before.. CDI's can make your life a living hell !!!!! carry a back up is my lesson for today. woot. fingers crossed i can actually take an actual drive. i'll let ya know. out.
so.. bogging down....the original problem. omg i am scared to even take a drive now. will the previous trigger pick up and stator prove to be the bad system components? jury out.
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Post by scottish1 on May 1, 2011 1:37:47 GMT -5
oh and here is another lesson i learned because i have an oil leak from my main case where the stator and flywheel are. on my scoot it's a ugly bear to take off and install. that said... i relied on a marginal gasket when i put the scoot back together. real bad idea. experienced mechanics know that you get some *&%&^% permatex gasket gunk to put it back together right. next time i'll know. if this scoot starts to run better, i will be more than happy to take apart the case and seal the leak with a proper gasketing set up. if it's not running right.. screw it , i'll let it bleed!! mwa ha ha.
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Post by apittington on May 1, 2011 1:49:26 GMT -5
I have found that the screws on the carb are hard to get out on almost all or them, and require a good screwdriver, with lots of bite to get out. Funny that cheap screws = expensive screwdriver... haha
If you still can't get the buggers out, give the screwdriver a good thump with a hammer, just be careful not to whack your fingers in the process.
I'm glad your starting to see results... Just wish we could tell exactly what was wrong in the first place...
Adrian
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Post by scottish1 on May 1, 2011 4:29:26 GMT -5
i ran for 15 miles tonight. i got a little tiny bit of a feeling that things might be better.. but after ten miles or so i started getting some hesitation. i'm hoping that is just the fact that my scoot is still fairly new and it has really never had a chance to hit the open road and run to break it in well because of all the problems. previously just prior to bogging down it would hesitate some. but tonight it seemed to get past that and even seemed to run a bit cooler in the first 10 miles. so i'm still running scared but was at least able to ride it tonight.
and thanks for the advice on my carb bolts. when it needs to be torn down i'll give them a good soaking of wd and then find the good phillips head to undo them for the first time. a long time ago a mechanic i respected showed me that very thing.. use the good driver and put a LOT of pressure on it as you turn the screw. that's the only chance you have before it strips so make it a good one.
could it have been the cdi that punked my scooter so bad? i was after all depending on the new one which has now proven to be bad. jury is still out but just when i'm about to give up maybe is a tiny light at the end of the tunnel. go to the light! maybe the stator and trigger trade out was overkill. heck i was about ready to trade out the whole scoot.
i was not a good enough mechanic to check the stator output voltage when cool and compare it to the stator output voltage when it bogged down and heated up to really verify all that. looking back maybe i could have saved some time and learned how to use a voltmeter on it but since my scoot runs on DC ... i could never really understand which connections i would make to test it from all the internet stuff i was reading cuz most scoots are AC. hopefully these ideas can help others. i'm starting to become a friggin scooter pro and all i wanted to do was scooter to my crappy job and save some money.
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Post by apittington on May 1, 2011 5:17:58 GMT -5
Haha I feel ya there...
Unfortunetly, the electrical issues with all Chinese scoots seem to be really hard to trouble shoot, mostly because they have different electronics (IE stators with a different number of poles, CDIs with different plugs), or even if two scooters do have the same equipment, they may be wired with different colored wires, because thats what the factory worker had to work with that day... Not to mention a lack of consistent wiring diagrams (other than the basics), component locations and so on...
I have had my scoot hesitate a little bit on take off once or twice, I am thinking these kinds of things can be attributed to the facts that they are carburated, and do not adapt to changing environmental conditions automatically like a FI engine would, and also because the carbs we do have are very simple in design, function, and assembled using cheap parts. You can't expect your F/A mix to be perfect all day and night, since the ambient temp is constantly changing (x10 worse for us here, as its 55 at night and 98 during the day), and your engine temp is also not constant and changes with ambient temp, coolant flow, air flow, fuel flow (from resistance in fuel lines, as well as fuel level in the tank if you have a gravity fed system), oil flow, and cruising vs stop and go riding.
That being said, I am not saying you should take constant hesitation as normal, if its doing it quite frequently, I would guess your a/f mix is off just a bit.
I know what your saying about accidentally turning yourself into a scooter pro...
Between the problems I have had with my own scoot, and my frustration with the (dis)service of our local shops, I have learned a lot about these little critters we ride around on, and have actually started fixing them (and small displacement motorcycles) for people on the side... Have a guy coming over this week who needs some carb work... and I'm rebuilding a ninja 250 I picked up for $300, that has been sitting since 1997, after having only a few k miles on it.
Adrian
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Post by scottish1 on May 2, 2011 3:09:11 GMT -5
today i just took a short ride, up to gas it up at the corner store. granted it was a short ride but it ran very very well. dang thing pulls like crazy when you accelerate, has a nice bubbly idle, cruised like a champ. started immediately.. it friggin better. it's good you said that about carbs and atmosphere and an occasional hesitation. scooter showed no signs of that today. in doing all those things to try and fix it it did succeed in tuning it really well for when it does run. i tell ya i am still SO gun shy about taking it out touring..but im gonna have to soon.
on my 150 i can easily go just as fast or faster than all the traffic in phoenix is allowed to go legally around town so that's a big plus having a 150. ill try and get out on the road for a long run soon, so hopefully we can wrap up this thread and call it a day. oh.. a friggin MONTH.
wow i'd like to hear what you find out about the ninja why it wasnt running. thats a great deal. i replaced just about everything on my friggin scooter. what a nightmare but i have to admit it was pretty cheap to do.
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Post by Bluefront on May 2, 2011 3:43:54 GMT -5
That thing about carbs/hesitation/normal........I question that. If you've got the jetting set properly on a CV carb, adjusted for your altitude and usual riding temperatures, you shouldn't experience any hesitation. It's only when you do a drastic altitude change while riding, that you might notice a performance issue.......that's one advantage of an EFI system (they can compensate for altitude changes). In this respect the CV carb is much better than the older slide carbs. Temperature extremes may give any carb system a performance problem.....but that's not usual with 2-wheelers, since few are ridden below 20 degrees F. Sure would like to know what was wrong with your OEM carb that cause the unusual symptoms.....if that turns out to be the real problem. Make you a deal.....after you determine the carb was the problem, box it up and send it to me (USPS). I'll take it apart and compare it against my 24mm carbs. I may find something wrong and/or I can tell you what size jets were in there. There's the crazy possibility that a way-too-small main jet was installed...or something equally stupid. PM me.....
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Post by boscowtx on May 2, 2011 8:50:06 GMT -5
Just to get a better understanding, you replaced the carb, did you have to do any adjustments to the carb, or is it straight from the box. Took my scooter to the shop, the mechanic found nothing wrong with it, he is looking into the electrical system to see if any problems. Believe I am close to getting my Fly Scooter La Vie on the road for a longer road trip then 8 miles. Will replace my CDI, and carb, if I continue having the same problems of it bogging down after 8 miles.
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Post by scottish1 on May 3, 2011 3:12:48 GMT -5
i seem to be working towards fixing one problem and just when it seems ok.... i run into a whole other problem. it seems that i can go for a long ride now, went another 15 mile trip tonight. but now... as you have already mentioned it shouldn't be that way.. the hesitation has become significant. it constantly hesitates all the way from about 20 mph up to 50 mph. it just does not run smooth.
to answer your question above about carb... it was probably the cdi that made my scooter punk out with its most recent problem. so the carb was probably ok but i could never service it so it needed to be replaced. i guess it's rather obvious now that my new carb isn't all that great. all this talk about .. hey just buy a new carb they are cheap!!! pfffffffff bosco i'm hoping a new cdi will do the trick for you. i have not made any adjustments to my new carb but as you can see it more than likely is creating my new problems. no air leaks checked that. i'll have a look at the spark plug tomorrow after a short run to get it hot, and see if maybe i need the air/fuel mix adusted. my valves should be PERFECT but of course if this hesitation problem continues i'll be in looking at those AGAIN too.
i don't mind a little tinkering but this has become something worse than i ever imagined. of course now i have to deal with the possibility that the auto choke on the new carb is malfunctioning. checked the big diaphragm on the carb it's ok but the little one now needs to be checked too. and of course at some point i will have to take apart the new carb and clean it and check out the jets. and of course there are those that will say i should re-jet and try some new ones of those but i have not changed the air box and i'm just tired of all this extra stuff to try. I just want it to run right for 10 to 20 miles!!!!! Is that too much to @#$%$#% ask? i'm not really enjoying being the guy that talks too much and never really solves anything very well.
believe it or not i am not the world's worst mechanic. it may soon be time to try a new hobby.. maybe try gold prospecting and trouble shoot metal detectors. however i'm pretty sure i would buy the good one and it would find old aluminum foil.
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Post by scottish1 on May 3, 2011 3:38:26 GMT -5
p.s. i still have a 30mm carb. maybe i should just get a uni filter and bolt that bad boy on. maybe it's time to forget about stock. i used to think....no stock is best, stock will get it to run right. pfffffff ! maybe i should just mod this @#$^ thing. if i can't fix it.. maybe it's time to monster garage it. then if it still is a piece of junk, can do what jesse does when it doesn't work out.. friggin destroy it.
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Post by boscowtx on May 3, 2011 11:55:04 GMT -5
Will try replacing the CDI, and let you know! Thank you for the information!
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Post by scottish1 on May 3, 2011 16:06:53 GMT -5
today is a new day and feeling a little better. yes bosco the carb worked pretty well right out of the box. i do complain a lot but i have to admit it did start right up after a little initial flooding it to get it primed. i did just adjust the air fuel mixture to get it to run a bit more rich, it seemed to stumble a bit on the stand so maybe a small adjustment actually made a difference for once. i opened up the adjustment screw about a half a turn. i ran it up to the post office today and there were no problems. but i'll take it on a night ride after work to really test it. last night it had to run awhile before the hesitation started.
some more carb info. don't use tape or funky material to shore up air intake leaks, the adhesive or cheap rubber melts from heat and gas and feeds oozing goo to your carb. you can't count on carb adjustments unless you make sure there are no leaks so that the air flow is consistent.
it's kind of embarassing to have the scooter from hell, pulling off to the side of the road and sitting there broken down. without this forum i never would have survived this ordeal. many of the early responders to my scooter problems turned out to be very correct about what the solutions are. so many things could possibly be malfunctioning, but at some point you realize that the list of things you can do to fix it IS finite, and eventually you will have a scoot that scoots.
although properly adjusted valves has probably not been the source of my breaking down i have come to realize that you cannot underestimate the value of making sure that you become skilled in doing it. once you start tinkering with valves and really get to know your scooter you soon begin to realize what properly adjusted valves sound like. eventually, knowing that they are dialed in just right reallly helps give you confidence that you can keep your scoot on the road.
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Post by scottish1 on May 8, 2011 1:31:06 GMT -5
i have come to a point again where i need some help and some input. i have come from the beginning of this post.. having a scooter that bogged down and had to be restarted after 8 to 10 miles of running. now i have a scooter, after all of the work i have done on it, new everything almost that can be replaced, that once it reaches about 8 to 10 miles in travel, it begins to miss and hesitate and will not stop doing that, although it will run and apparently not overheat very much.
assuming the my ignition system is in order, assuming that my new carb is properly delivering fuel to the motor for ignition... why is my scooter doing this? if you say valve adjustment, i would have to politely disagree, they are adjusted perfectly and this scooter does 55 mph easily and sounds good. my idea is this.. it HAS to be a flaw in the motor. if so, what is the flaw and what does it take to fix it? the flaw in my scooter simply MUST be related to the original problem because it has EVERYTHING to do with running about 8 to 10 miles before it starts acting up. now i've got it to run.. but... what the hell is wrong with it?
suggestions welcome. thanks. if i had a compression problem.. i would have to check compression while the motor was cold, and then very hot as well to see the difference. so as you can see that is not possible to really do. and... if i had a compression problem.. how is it possible that i can run flawlessly for the first 8 to 10 miles?
do i need a new 'top end'? what is that and how difficult is that to do? do i have maybe valves that somehow have a flaw in them when they get hot? how do i test that? help!
what am i missing? i have a deeply imbedded gremlin in my scooter and i cannot figure out for the life of me what is causing it. could it be my brand new carburetor? could it be as simple as cleaning it? but why would it run flawlessly for 8 to 10 miles? this scooter has ALL NEW ignition system, ALL (except for regulator) this scooter has ALL new fuel delivery system, ALL.
forgive me if i continue to say, that this scooter is a piece of junk. i so need the scooter gods to shine on me. from what i know now, i am very convinced i bought a lemon. with what i have accomplished it should be running flawlessly. please respond if you are just waiting for me to sell it cheap and are holding out on what you would do to fix it. lol. because to be real honest bout all this.. i am about ready to sell it at a loss and put the money into my truck.
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Post by 13lky2 on May 8, 2011 8:26:06 GMT -5
I have read the whole thread over the course of your ordeal and I have to say I'm sorry you have had so much trouble. I can't remember if you have replaced the vacuum fuel pump or if you are running a manual valve. I say this because your post from this morning made me think of fuel delivery issues some of the guys on the Ruckus GY6 swap site have with the vacuum pump at higher speeds/x amount of time not being able to deliver sufficient fuel.
At one point, one of the vendor/shops on there came and commented to try and run a vacuum line to the vacuum fuel pump only and see if the condition improves. All affected reported that this solved the problem.
The only thing I questioned on this was removing the line to the carb. Several posters their also posted concern over this but were assured it would be fine. I still don't like the idea of it as I am assuming it is a vacuum diaphragm connection.
For trouble shootings sake it might be worth trying to run just to the vacuum pump if so equipped or run one line to the carb and one to the pump if you have the stock 2-port manifold. If you have the aluminum, I run a T off of it with one side going to the carb the other to the pump and it runs flawless minus this pesky oil leak. ;D
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Post by scottish1 on May 8, 2011 16:55:07 GMT -5
due to my large amount of writing, it is confusing sometimes, sorry. i have not installed the 30mm carb which has the vacuum line that is not used, i am using a standard 24mm cvk type carb. i don't think i have a fuel delivery issue to the carb, my fuel lines are clear and when i pull over to inspect things i can see is plenty of fuel in the line waiting at the carb.
i'm now thinking that a valve adjust is in order. heated up valves tighten up and that could be what i am experiencing. i have a gy6B motor, not a standard gy6 and these are the valve clearance specs on a sticker right on the clutch cover on this scoot. .05mm /.20mm. i've not yet adjusted the exhaust out that far so i am going to try that now to try and get this scooter to breathe in and out better. i think i am getting close. with all my troubles as above i'm thinking.. is there a system i haven't touched yet? maybe i've got the parts right maybe some final tweeking will fix me up. jury out for now.
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Post by sprocket on May 8, 2011 17:12:05 GMT -5
The valves are the same on the GY6B as far as I know...
intake .004 inch = 0.1016 millimeters - exhaust .005 inch = 0.127 millimeters
Your figures would be .002 inch intake and and .008 inch exhaust...seem like the exhaust is way large...
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Post by scottish1 on May 9, 2011 3:35:35 GMT -5
yeah i know pretty strange huh. intake is tight at spec and exhaust is way open yeah. very wierd. but i dialed em in a bit more like a standard gy6 cuz i just dont trust that that sticker makes any sense. i have em where intake is a bit looser and exhaust isnt quite that far out. i think my seat tub may have been pinching a vacuum line that bends over when the motor starts making the area around the carb hot after riding awhile. so i am going to test that theory monday and ride it to work. it's 20 miles each way, and it's hot in phoenix lately so should be a good test to see if any of what i have done has worked. if it makes me late or absent from work i'm gonna be so mad. but filling my s.u.v. with gas is KILLING ME it takes 75 bucks to fill my tank and it's once a week. time to make this rotten scooter start earning its keep.
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Post by boscowtx on May 14, 2011 23:34:36 GMT -5
Had the CDI replaced, and carb flapper cleaned, was a little gumed up. Friday will take for a test run, keeping my fingers crossed it will go farthur then 9 miles. Will let you know.
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