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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 9, 2011 21:14:31 GMT -5
I readjusted my valves today to about 0.003. I installed the manual petcock, as Bluefront did - full on, no reserve. I am also down to just the single vacuum line for the carb. I also adjusted the throttle stop a bit, and tried the idle mix. The idle mix doesnt make much difference, if any, but the throttle stop sure does, between a slow thump and a reasonably smooth idle. How much time does any one spend at idle? Stop lights is about it. Otherwise I am at WOT.
Bluefront - as many times as I've read this thread, you have the scrappydog orange CDI installed and the OE CDI is a spare? I didn't have time for a long test ride today but I didnt feel any difference in the short 3/4 mile loop, and traffic plus lights kept me from getting near top speed.
Before todays tweaks, I was still maxing out at about 55mph per the GPS. I upped the main and pilot jets (38 and a 112.5), 10gr sliders, removed the PAIR thingy, new lug and scrappy orange coil. I have a new scrappy CDI, and I suppose I should go ahead and try it. I gotta get a little more speed and fuel ecconomy.
Besides performance, another important items: my right brake switch has gone out for the second time. I replaced the original with a new scrappy switch and that one lasted nearly two weeks. It certainly didn't get very wet if at all wet. I dd take the original one apart and was seeing if I could reassemble it (I dropped the spring and another very tiny bit and can't find either one) - it seemed to have self destructed inside the large plastic housing- The second one is still installed - it clicks like it should be working but it isn't operating the lights or enabling the starter I'm thinking a normal micro switch with some silicon would be fine.
Steve
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Post by TERRA NUVO on Jun 9, 2011 22:38:10 GMT -5
my bms yingyue supply-ed battery has worked fine in 5 degrees, which leaves room in trunk and under seat for my girlfriends keys and pocket book, i keep the bag lunch between my feet.
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 10, 2011 4:54:43 GMT -5
^^^^I'm using Scrappy's orange coil and orange CDI. The stock units are carried as spares. I doubt they provided any performance boost though. But carrying spare parts is a habit I got into when I road British bikes (Nortons) years ago. You'd be surprised how much stuff you could cram in that rig.... ;D
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 10, 2011 8:01:40 GMT -5
I see - thats what the side cars is for! Too bad you didnt already have a spare head! Bummer on that valve seat.
I read a bit about the needle that also needs adjusting in the carb. so many clicks this way or that, I know I havent ever adjusted or even looked at that . 1. open carb remove main jet, 2. close carb, 3. adjust the needle til it runs well to 3/4 throttle, 4. open carb reinatall main jet, 5. close carb.... Im not looking forward to all that...
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 10, 2011 11:01:58 GMT -5
^^^^That just goes along with fine-tuning anything with a carb. After you do it a few times, it's no big deal. Jets are available at Honda dealers......and complete new carbs are relatively cheap. When you take apart a carb for the first time.......do it over a big shallow pan lined with a towel. If you drop anything, it won't bounce away.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jun 10, 2011 12:04:49 GMT -5
I did tak eit apart to put in the bigger jets, but never realized the needle was adjustable. I took it apart sitting on the garage floor so nohting could bounce too far. Now I need dry weather again so I can do the carb fiddling.
You are getting good milage and decent speed with the windshield and your trunk and bags? My speed hasn't really changed but my fuel ecconomy has dropped off.
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 10, 2011 12:27:17 GMT -5
Mileage.....I'm still not satisfied. I went back to a 107 main jet, and recently to the stock pilot jet. The needle setting is in the second leanest. But I may have to readjust after this new head gets running (I'm close). I don't think the windshield changed anything.....the bags are rarely used. I'd like to consistently get over 65mpg (running on regular now). I think I was running somewhat rich last summer....mostly got around 57mpg. The spark plug readings looked OK.....but apparently were misleading. I really can't comment on the top end, since I rarely go much over 55mph, except by accident.
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Post by sprocket on Jun 10, 2011 17:55:54 GMT -5
Bluefront...I'm a Norton man too I rode an Atlas in 1966 to 1971, before that BSA, Triumph (for a few weeks) and a Royal Enfield 500 single...
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 14, 2011 8:01:10 GMT -5
Well I'm back on the road after suffering a major problem.....dropped an intake valve seat. The whole story is in this link. But I did learn a bunch of things while replacing the head.....here are a few of some interest. Specific parts for this GY6B engine are available, but you have to be careful when buying them. If you only have two bolts holding on the valve cover, that's a sure sign the engine is a GY6B.....but the most positive way to tell is the distance between the head studs. It's 57MM on the GY6B.....about 53mm on a standard GY6. Very little interchanges between these two engines. If you order anything (other directly from BMS)......try to get pictures and measurements. Taking off the head and cylinder can be done on this scoot by removing the seat bucket and the battery cover......removing the engine shrouds is somewhat tricky, but can be done in a few minutes. The entire job is almost the same as working on a 50cc GY6.....fairly easy. Here's something I didn't know.....the cylinder on my engine is already tapped out for an oil cooler. There's a 6mm plug visible when you take the shrouds off. You know that intake manifold that some places say can crack......on this Xingyue the manifold is aluminum, with a plastic coating....looks very strong. Anyway......since I have a junk standard GY6 engine, I compared some of the pieces while I had this G6B apart. So I now can tell you what pieces between the engines will interchange. The cam chain tensioner will. The rocker arm holder won't....and so on. Just ask here if you have any more questions about the differences. I won't say anybody could put a new head on his Xingyue.....but as it turned out, it wasn't that much of a job. ;D
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Post by kygirl65 on Jun 14, 2011 10:44:08 GMT -5
Always wanted to ride own motorcycle, tried and didn't do good. My husband bought me a 2008 ITA 150 didn't run but he thought he could fix it. He is good at mechanics. Owner said it ran (this was confirmed by a mutual friend) he put new battery in and it blew the fuses. There was no book and we have not been able to locate one on the internet. Can anyone tell me where I can get one? Also any suggestions on what could be wrong? One friend told the hubs he thinks it is the rectifier. Hubby doesn't want to just start buying parts for it. I have not been able to locate much help any where on the internet. This site looks hopeful? Any help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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Post by TERRA NUVO on Jun 14, 2011 10:59:27 GMT -5
Hey Blue
I think a awful lot of folks would love to know how do you take advantage of that oil cooler port.
And do you have to put a pump on it?Attachments:
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 14, 2011 11:20:39 GMT -5
^^^^^That oil pressure port......I know little about it. I've never seen an after-market oil-cooler kit that uses that port (although it would be possible). There's no other fitting I've seen on this scoot that you could use as a return port for the cooler. I suppose you could use that Scrappy Oil canister fitting on the oil filler port. That oil pressure port may be used by some model scoots for an oil pressure gauge.....or even a simple oil pressure light. I wouldn't mind screwing in a pressure sensor, and rigging up a warning light on the dash. I'm not much interested in a cooler however...... Most of these scoots use a very similar wiring harness. I've never seen a specific service manual for this Xingyue......most of the generic manuals would give you enough info fix most anything. If you're blowing fuses and suspect the regulator.....simply unplug the thing (it's in the nose section). If the fuse stops blowing, that's probably the problem. Those regulators only cost about $10 from Scrappydog.com. I've never heard of a common wire issue on this Xingyue that blows the fuse. The regulator is a good guess. OH....a blown fuse won't keep this scoot from starting. You'll just need to use the kick-starter since the electric starter won't work. But I certainly would fix the fuse problem before driving around....since most of the electrical things won't work properly (like the brake light).
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Post by kygirl65 on Jun 14, 2011 11:34:19 GMT -5
TY for help. Is the regulator and rectifier the same thing? I found rectifiers on the internet. Can you recommend where I would find a generic book?
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 14, 2011 11:52:41 GMT -5
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Post by sprocket on Jun 14, 2011 12:19:05 GMT -5
Rectifier/regulator used to be two components but about 2006 they were combined... Not certain that was good idea... however...
The regulator takes the voltage from the stator (alternator) and it evens it out.. and makes it more or less constant voltage. All cars have these as well usually built into their alternators...it can work on both AC power or DC power... it gives a constant voltage of about 13.5 volts DC...
The rectifier, converts the AC voltage from the stator to DC voltage so the battery will charge. The battery is important also, since in these scooters it works as a voltage filter...further smoothing out voltage spikes.
The scooter however runs ONLY on AC power. This is generated by the stator, goes to the CDI, the ignition coil and the spark plug.
The lights, enricher etc can be AC or DC and they don't really care. The battery charge however must be DC voltage only.
The long shot on this is the scooter will run with no rectifier/regulator just fine... and it may also have AC lights.
But it won't have any DC for the battery... so no electric starter...
So either the rectifier or the regulator can fail or both...unfortunately now we have to replace both since they come as a single black box...
Probably more than you need to know! ;-)
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Post by kygirl65 on Jun 14, 2011 13:43:52 GMT -5
Sprocket thank you very much for the information. No not to much!!! I will show this to my husband when he gets home. Where I do not understand 90% of that, I am sure he will. The part I do understand is no electric start! Not sure I would like to have to kick start it? The part is not much and if that is what is wrong, it will be worth it! TY
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Post by sprocket on Jun 14, 2011 14:37:48 GMT -5
Before you decide it is the rectifier regulator.. check out the stator power. You need a multimeter or a VOM meter.. they are under $10 at Walmart sometimes... Attachments:
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 29, 2011 8:08:25 GMT -5
Update on my MPG thing....trying to get better mpgs than the 57 or so of last summer. It's difficult to get any accurate numbers on just a few tankfuls......but I'm now getting around 70pmg after averaging the last four tankfuls. This last fill-up got me 75mpg (half in town and half state highways around 45-50mph. Here are the current mods that are responsible..... Back to a 107 main jet (stock was 103).......last summer I was using a 112.5. Back to the stock pilot jet (last summer was #38). Needle position.....second leanest (same as last summer). A/F screw setting......unchanged. Idle speed setting.....around 2000 (unchanged). "Backfire" plate behind air filter removed (same as last year). Air filter and exhaust system same as last year. Two extra intake holes added to air filter housing since last year.... Head was replaced due to valve seat issue....head looks the same as old head. Finally......I recently installed a set of Scrappy sliders 12gr, replacing the 10gr sliders of last summer. This lowered the overall rpms at any particular speed. But I still thought the rpms were too high. So....I reinstalled the 12gr rollers that came stock with this scoot. The performance of this new/old setup seems similar to the original setup. The acceleration is down compared to using the 10gr sliders, but the rpms are down across the board. Better mpgs....... Here are two recent photos of my OEM NGK plug which was renewed about 300 miles ago. These readings look good to me......not much different from last summer with the slightly richer jetting. Anyway.....as long as I get around 70mpg I'm happy, and see no need to go further with this mpg quest. ;D This scoot now has 11.2K miles on the odometer.....runs good on these leaner settings.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jul 19, 2011 9:25:58 GMT -5
What grade of fuel are you using? I think I put in 87octane last time due to over $4.00 per gallon prices. I haven't heard a ping. I am still using the #112.5 and #38 jets.
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Post by scootdudeman on Jul 22, 2011 13:39:12 GMT -5
Where is bluefront?
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Post by scootdudeman on Jul 24, 2011 15:26:26 GMT -5
I hate these head lights on this model!!!! The city I live in doesn't have street lights in the residential areas and the bike doesn't project much light.....so I installed the smallest fog lights I could find on ebay, they turn on with a foot switch Where can I get these fogs? I've been looking for some fog lights I can mount on the fork.
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Post by sprocket on Jul 24, 2011 15:52:49 GMT -5
Ebay
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Post by scootdudeman on Jul 24, 2011 17:39:00 GMT -5
^^I've looked but I don't see any that mount to the forks, any suggestions?
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Post by sprocket on Jul 24, 2011 18:06:27 GMT -5
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Post by sprocket on Jul 24, 2011 18:10:48 GMT -5
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Post by scootdudeman on Jul 24, 2011 18:39:01 GMT -5
^Thanks! I'm going to probably get some fogs and set them up on the fender as well. I'm also going to go with a 6 pc remote controlled led kits for extra visibility at night.
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Post by scootdudeman on Jul 25, 2011 4:57:33 GMT -5
^^Maybe your mom wants to buy my scooter for $2,000+? Tell her to call me to make an offer. I will give a hard bargain she can't refuse.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jul 25, 2011 7:57:01 GMT -5
back to the Xingyue ITA 150 -
When I was changing the 10g sliders back to the OEM rollers, and the jets yesterday to the 35 and 107, I discovered my slider needle is not simply adjustable. There is a plastic holder, and no adjustments, except maybe adding washers under the head of the needle - pictures later. Seemed a bit boggy. WOT even on the centerstand was a slow rev. On the road I barley hit 6000RPM vs 6500 with the 10g.
More importantly was if your brake master cylinder sight glass looks stressed, DO NOT touch it. I did and imedeatly lost all the brake fluid from the front brake master.
I did a quick search on this foprum and didnt find any information on getting replacement glass. But I do have a line on the glass once I determin the correct size. A rough measuer = 16.3mm. It was getting dark so I picked up my tools and stuff and parked the bike. I have every intension to NOT buy a whole master cylinder to make this repair. And I will do both left and right at one time. The left didnt look so bad but Im not touching it until I get ready to fix it.
It seems the degradation of that window came quickly since I do look at the levels and give a shake to be sure Im not loosing (or gaining -rain-) fluid at any alarming rate. Suddenly I notice the white ice appearance, and that spells the end.
Unfortunalty this means my scooter is offline during nice weather.
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Post by emanyoda on Jul 25, 2011 9:20:52 GMT -5
Hey Sprocket..... I purchased them off ebay....it was awhile ago but Im pretty sure I just typed in small fog lights into the search.... they are not actually mounted on the forks they are mounted on the fender where the stock reflectors where located
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Post by fljohnboy on Jul 25, 2011 13:23:48 GMT -5
back to the Xingyue ITA 150 - When I was changing the 10g sliders back to the OEM rollers, and the jets yesterday to the 35 and 107, I discovered my slider needle is not simply adjustable. There is a plastic holder, and no adjustments, except maybe adding washers under the head of the needle - pictures later. Seemed a bit boggy. WOT even on the centerstand was a slow rev. On the road I barley hit 6000RPM vs 6500 with the 10g. More importantly was if your brake master cylinder sight glass looks stressed, DO NOT touch it. I did and imedeatly lost all the brake fluid from the front brake master. I did a quick search on this foprum and didnt find any information on getting replacement glass. But I do have a line on the glass once I determin the correct size. A rough measuer = 16.3mm. It was getting dark so I picked up my tools and stuff and parked the bike. I have every intension to NOT buy a whole master cylinder to make this repair. And I will do both left and right at one time. The left didnt look so bad but Im not touching it until I get ready to fix it. It seems the degradation of that window came quickly since I do look at the levels and give a shake to be sure Im not loosing (or gaining -rain-) fluid at any alarming rate. Suddenly I notice the white ice appearance, and that spells the end. Unfortunalty this means my scooter is offline during nice weather. About that master cylinder glass. I had the same issue years ago on my Honda 500. I took a the plastic thing that 35mm film comes in and cut the bottom of it out and glued it in the master cylinder. I suppose you could use anything clear plastic. Maybe a clear thin piece of plexiglass.
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