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Post by tvnacman on Nov 11, 2010 18:24:17 GMT -5
Blue I see your into your scooter deep I have the longbo version , have you bought a spare cdi and regulator AND tested them , if so please post good 360 pics
thank you
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 11, 2010 18:27:26 GMT -5
I'd have to guess at that one. Start by checking the motor mounts, and all the other nuts/bolts you can get to......particularly the bigger ones. The exhaust system could be a problem......try running with the heat shields removed. I had a weld break on the front of the main shield mount on the muffler. Made a resonance noise on acceleration. I had a simalar problem with noise from the muffler I found the clamp that goes into the spacer , that then screws into the swingarm was stripped , i repaired it with threaded rod washers spacers and nylon lock nuts John
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 11, 2010 18:37:35 GMT -5
Toward the bottom of page 13.....pictures of a CDI and a regulator from Scrappy. I'm using them right now.....and have/carry the originals as spares.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 11, 2010 18:45:29 GMT -5
Blue my regulator is a six wire , the CDI says FLP . Is that what your factor CDI is ?
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 11, 2010 19:00:39 GMT -5
Well my OEM CDI says "SAN YANG" 080605. Apparently you have the higher output stator......that uses a 6-wire regulator. I've never seen that type before. It should have three yellow wires coming out of the stator, plus some others. This is the setup I've been wanting to put on my Xingyue.....because of it's higher DC output potential. If it's ok with you, I may ask you for more info on your setup. Trying to find this sort of info is not easy.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 11, 2010 19:11:52 GMT -5
Blue I read your post about your right hand 3 position switch mine works it shuts off the DRL and puts the head light on
On the regulator it is 3 yellow white red and green , I have not seen the stator so I can not tell you . Your dash is different also mine has no tach and drum brake.
My biggest concern is the CDI on mine it says FLP I bought a spare , it doesn't work (I don't know if it is bad or wrong ) I ordered another one different and it is a wait and see . I may have to reverse engineer a cdi that has already reversed engineered ( where are the advils )
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 11, 2010 19:18:21 GMT -5
Myhead lights are dc they will go on with the key on
I will check the other lights I have not bothered to check ,
I bought this scooter new in January and I have spent more time waiting for parts with the scoot down then riding.
Let me correct myself I bought 2 scooters in January longbo prodgy and voyager > my biggest mistake was not knowing anything about this fourm . it is putting the pieces together a little at a time.
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 12, 2010 10:15:50 GMT -5
Got my new front tire installed yesterday.....I pulled the wheel off, but had a local cycle place change out the tire ($17+no scratches on the rim). It's a Vee Rubber tire, 100-80-16 (same as OEM). The original CST tire had about 8400miles on it, and could have made it to 10,000.....but I had the new tire already and winter's almost here. I never liked to run on almost worn-out tires. When I get a few miles on it I'll comment on how I like it....It's supposed to be a good brand. You can get the front wheel off by simply supporting the bottom of the scoot, and removing the axle. Be careful you get the speed drive back on properly....it just hangs loose with the wheel off. You can carefully work the disk back into the pads/caliper when you reinstall the wheel....easy job. Wheel bearings......sealed 6201 (two of them). Tread depth at the middle of the new tire.....3.2mm. I greased the axle, and packed some wheel bearing grease into the speedo drive, plus I pulled out the speedo inner cable, cleaned it off, and lightly greased it also. If you do this.....use grease very lightly. If you overdo it, the lube can work up into the speedo and stain things.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 12, 2010 19:14:13 GMT -5
well I got another 2 new CDI's and they are working
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 15, 2010 18:05:13 GMT -5
Here are a few new things I've added recently......a set of seat belt covers from Walmart. They match my seat cushion, and provide a soft covering for the passenger grab-rails. Actually also feel better when pulling the scoot onto the center-stand. And I found a neat wide-angle mirror....one that is independently adjustable from the main mirror. Found it at a close-out table at a local Cycle Gear store $8. Everything I've added in the last few months is working without problems.....with one exception. Those new mirrors.....after the temperature drops to around 45 degrees, the adjuster pivots loosen, and when you drive over about 40mph, the mirrors pivot backward. I've put a few drops of super-glue on the pivots.....holding ok so far (can't adjust the mirrors anymore).
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Post by earthman on Nov 16, 2010 2:37:26 GMT -5
This scoot has 100x80x16 (f) and 120x80x16 (r)......I haven't looked into buying tires yet. Actually these CSTs feel pretty good on dry pavement, but I haven't driven in the rain so far. Hi bluefront. josh told me (superior motor sports) these CST's are the big weakness on this bike. No Grip. as can be seen with just looking at them.
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 16, 2010 5:59:04 GMT -5
Well I can say the original CST tires felt good to me, in dry conditions, or in the rain. My only complaint......at 8300 miles both tires are pretty well worn. That's why I replaced the front the other day. I know a lot of people run their tires down further than I do. And I go 235lbs, and carry tools etc.....that does contribute to the wear. This Josh guy......was he trying to sell you a different brand or something? Most of the OEM parts on this Xingyue are of high-quality.......Powerlink belt, Keihin carb, NGK plug, Japanese battery, etc. The CST tires.....debatable.
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 16, 2010 18:08:04 GMT -5
And speaking of tires......the Vee Rubber front tire I had installed the other day, turned out to be way out of balance. I should have checked it before I reinstalled the wheel, but the CST tire didn't have any weights, or balance issue either.
Anyway....checking the balance on the front wheel is easy, if you have a bench vice. You use the axle through the bearings, one end sitting on the vice, and the other end propped up by a board. I ended up having to add 2oz of weight.....quite a bit I'd say, but it fixed the problem.
It felt like I was riding over an endless line of small bumps, quite noticeable through the handlebars, at speeds of about 40mph and up. When I get a new rear tire I'll have it balanced at the shop. You can't balance a rear scooter tire like I did the front.....no bearings in the wheel, and no axle to use .
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Post by gross392 on Nov 17, 2010 9:26:45 GMT -5
Bluefront what are tose huge black bars coming up on your windshield?
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 17, 2010 10:03:30 GMT -5
Just foam tubes covering the mount hardware. (Pipe covering) In theory.....in an accident if thrown forward, I'd hit the foam rather than the metal bars. Hope it doesn't happen.
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Post by earthman on Nov 17, 2010 10:42:56 GMT -5
HEY BLUEFRONT ABOUT TIRES
NO THIS JOSH GUY WAS NOT SELLING ME ANYTHING, FACT IS i WAS ASKING HIM WHAT HE WAS GOING TO PUT ON HIS BIKE, HE SAID HE RIDES TO WORK IN THE RAIN AND WANTED SOMETHING WITH TEETH FOR TREAD FOR HIS BIKE
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Post by earthman on Nov 17, 2010 10:48:14 GMT -5
BLUE FRONT CAN WE GET A PICTURE OF THAT TIRE BALANCE TRICK,
SORRY I AM SLOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW AND HERE'S A BONE IN ADVANCE FOR ALL THE GOOD YOU HAVE DONE US ALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 17, 2010 15:51:00 GMT -5
Well too bad I didn't take any photos.....but it really is easy.
You take out the axle and remove the wheel.....then you shove the axle back in the wheel through the bearings. Rest one end of the axle on a vice, or just a bench......with the wheel swinging freely. I cut a hole on a 4' piece of scrap wood, at the point that would support the free end of the axle almost level. (not that critical). Now the wheel is supported on the bearings......and the heavy spot of the wheel will rotate to the bottom.
I got some stick on wheel weights (Harbor Freight sells them. (I used the 1/4 oz size). I temporarily attached weights with tape, and kept adding weights till the wheel will stop in random places, when you spin it. After I was satisfied with the results, I installed the weights permanently using their stick-on adhesive.
This is the same technique used to balance bicycle or even cycle wheels. You can't just do this with the wheel on the scooter because of the disk, as well as the speedo drive. Those things put drag on the wheel that precludes this method.
FWIW......the front wheel being in balance is the most critical on anything, the rear wheel much less so.
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Post by Eat Sleep Scooters on Nov 18, 2010 7:50:06 GMT -5
I noticed that I need to balance my front wheel. It gets pretty bad at about 50mph GPS. I also can't seem to figure out why I still have pinging. Maybe the compression is entirely too high and needs more break in.
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 18, 2010 8:29:08 GMT -5
That pinging thing....caused mostly by the lean OEM carb settings on this scoot IMO. The other thing.....the tall gearing which puts an excessive load on the engine when accelerating. Those are the things I changed to stop detonation on my scoot.
#112.5 main jet. #38 pilot jet. Needle in third notch from the bottom. 10gr sliders. 93 octane Shell gasoline.
I've never checked the ignition timing.....that's something else to check if all else fails. Some of the after-market CDI units have an adjustment for the ignition advance. Haven't seen one installed/running/ or tested either. Might be worth a try.....
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Post by Eat Sleep Scooters on Nov 18, 2010 19:11:38 GMT -5
Thats some good stuff to know. Also remember I dont have an adjustable setting on my needle. I am going to see about getting an adjustable one for my carb from my parts man. I also wanted to let you know that an indicated 75mph on my scoot is a paced (93 Civic thats been GPS verified) 60mph. So one would guess if you buried the needle on your ITA, you are probably doing close to 63-64 or so. I did all that at 7500 RPMs just the other day. Most scoots are screaming at 10rpms at that speed. And MRP has some kind of clutch they are selling that is supposed to make a world of difference on the ITA150.
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 19, 2010 5:58:14 GMT -5
For sure......be very cautious when you read/hear "performance improvement" claims from companies trying to sell you these sorts of items. Scooter after-market parts places can and do make all sorts of claims without any proof. That carb needle thing......I have another 24mm Keihin carb (reported earlier in this thread) which looks the same as my Xingyue/Keihin. The only difference I could see is the needle......the needle taper is different between the two. When I ran the second Keihin.....I could never get it to run with anything over a #104 (stock) jet. So.....it's quite possible you will have to readjust your main jet size if you change needles.
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Post by Eat Sleep Scooters on Nov 19, 2010 23:24:04 GMT -5
Dag. I cant find the washers in town so thats out of the question. Oh and since when did you go down to an 8 gram roller? Any big difference?
Also, I would like to know when you are going to accomplish a write up on how to remove all of the crap emissions equipment from the ITA. Most of the engine bay consists of emissions crap that I dont want or need. If you dont get around to it, I will probably work on trying to attempt it and post a write up with pics.
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 20, 2010 0:06:42 GMT -5
^^^^Sorry....I'm still using 10gr sliders from Scrappy. No need for me to go any lower. The only emission device I had on this scoot was the PAIR thing.....and the scoot continues to run just fine without it, during my on-going testing. Scrappy sells a carb repair kit that looks to have a needle with the adjuster slots....pretty cheap. How/if it would work is another question...
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Post by Eat Sleep Scooters on Nov 20, 2010 7:37:42 GMT -5
I actually had to do that mod to a Peace Scooter once. It came without the notches while the others did. I had to call Peace and have them send me another needle and it worked great after I replaced it. So my guess would be it should hurt it none.
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 20, 2010 13:56:23 GMT -5
And now for something completely different.....a short comparison between this Xingyue150 and a Xingyue 260 (water-cooled "cruiser"). Actually no comparison IMO......other than being faster, this bigger scoot has nothing on an ITA 150. It's heavier, handles like a (real) tank, vibrates bad as well as rattles from everywhere. This one I drove had about 600 miles on it ('08). It's loud....mostly intake noise....the front brake didn't work at all, and the temp gauge stayed on cold for the whole 1/2 hour ride. I had no more leg room than my 150, and when you sit on it, your knees are bent awkwardly (if you're tall). Feels like you're sitting on the ground..... I'm fairly certain some of these issues are unique to this particular scooter......but I'm not in the least impressed. If I had bought this scooter online (like the owner did), I would have been really disappointed. I like my 150 even more now, after this little road-test on the bigger Xingyue.
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 21, 2010 14:11:15 GMT -5
Little report on the drive train after about 8,700 miles......Changed out the OEM belt yesterday, cleaned out the variator, checked/cleaned the Scrappy 10gr sliders, removed the clutch bell and cleaned the shoes.
I installed another Gates Powerlink belt, same as the original. No problems with the old belt.....just did it because of the mileage, and having it apart for the cleaning. The old belt measured .2mm thinner than the new belt......edge wear. The old belt looked like new (really). I'd bet you could go 15-20K easy.
The variator showed a slight bit of wear on the ramps.....very little actually. My Eagle 50cc showed a lot more wear on the variator when I changed the rollers at 750miles. No problem here.
The Scrappy orange sliders.....slightly dirty-looking, but with no noticeable wear. These sliders have about 6.5K miles on them.
The clutch shoes, and bell......nothing unusual. The shoes have a lot of wear left in them. The bell looked good.
Overall.....great. I've had no problems in the drive train. The trans oil always looks clean, and the bearings are quiet, and feel normal.
There's a slight bit of oil leakage from the crank seal (behind the variator). There was some evidence of this inside the variator cover, and I see an occasional drop of oil on the garage floor over-night. I've been running a small amount of stop-leak in the engine oil the past few oil changes. Might be working.....
So far so good with this scoot...... ;D
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 24, 2010 11:26:54 GMT -5
FWIW....finally ordered a new rear tire on Monday, and it's supposed to be here today. It's a Vee Rubber 120-80-16 from Scooterworks.The tire was discounted and shipping was free.....total cost $98. Not too bad I guess for a 112mph-rated tire. Most of these tires have a much lower rating. Not sure if the price was a special deal or not.....I ordered another item, so the total purchase was over $100, if that made any difference. Anyway.....the few places selling this tire, list it at $109 + shipping. UPS delivery from Chicago to St Louis in two days.....no special shipping or handling. Not bad..... ;D Later. It was just delivered.....Ordered 3pm on Monday, and arrived at 4pm on Wednesday. Can't beat that. The tire was wrapped up and inside a big cardboard box.....nice. I've had other tires shipped from different companies, without any packaging, just a tag hanging on them. Nothing even scuffed up on this one. + 1 for Scooterworks.......
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Post by Bluefront on Nov 29, 2010 16:46:00 GMT -5
Took the rear wheel off this afternoon.....getting the new tire installed tomorrow. Here's what the OEM CST tire looks like with 9000miles on it. There was a little left before the wear indicator was level with the tire. Here's the removal sequence that I used..... Remove the exhaust system complete. Remove the single 24mm axle nut. I wrapped a Velcro strap around the brake handle to hold the wheel. Worked good, with the scoot on the side stand. After the nut is loose, put the scoot on the center stand. Remove the bottom shock bolt. Remove the two bolts holding the short fender. Remove the bearing carrier (two bolts). Loosen the two bolts holding the rear caliper and bracket. Push the caliper up and off the disk.....it'll just hang loose there. Now the wheel will slip off the axle if you pivot the shock rearward slightly (easy). Don't loose the axle spacer. The hardest part was getting the 24mm nut loose. I didn't think my air compressor could handle the job, so I used a 1/2" breaker bar and socket.....along with a cheater extension. It's a tough nut to loosen. That's it.....any questions? It's not that difficult if you can get the nut off and it's not rusted tight. You will get your hands a little dirty....
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Post by Bluefront on Dec 1, 2010 16:08:37 GMT -5
Back on the road again with new rubber front and rear....gives you a nice, confident feeling. As to the Vee Rubber tires themselves.....hard for me to say, since I don't usually go over 55mph. I did drive in the rain the other day with the new front tire.....no surprises. Some suggestions....when you reassemble the rear wheel, smear the axle, the splines, the spacers, the edges of the seals, the axle threads, everything with wheel bearing grease. My setup was completely dry. The grease will help to prevent any rusting. Do the same greasing on all the bolts you remove......I really didn't have any rust problems anywhere with this rear tire job, but some preventative measures for the future won't hurt anything. One thing you might want to buy.....a swivel 3/8 drive 12mm socket. The two front nuts on the exhaust studs are very difficult to get to with a normal socket and extension. The swivel socket makes the job easy. It was a cold 60 mile ride this morning at 28 degrees. I was hoping to hit 10k miles before the end of the year.....got about 900 miles to go.
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