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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Apr 23, 2011 21:14:33 GMT -5
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Post by gross392 on Apr 26, 2011 10:10:21 GMT -5
Anyone know what the final drive gears are like in this bike? Bluefront I have this vague memory of you maybe looking in there when you first got the bike but i'm not too sure.
Also what are your guys top speeds you are hitting? My bike get up to about 55-60 before the rpms get to 8k or so and thats about all i really push her. The problem is that I can usually get to 55 going up inclines given enough time.
I think I may try to order some gears from scrappy if they fit for sure, but I know these Xingyue engines are a different story with most other components. Anyone got a clue?
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Post by Bluefront on Apr 26, 2011 10:41:21 GMT -5
Nope....haven't been in the final gears, and don't want to. I would be very surprised if any after-market place could furnish you the right pieces.....even if you sent them your old gears. This scoot has a different final drive setup, really different from any other GY6 engine. Speeds.....I saw a GPS of 61mph once. Other times when I was riding without the GPS I went a little faster......at those speeds my tach was reading over 8K. Remember I'm running 10gr sliders, which makes the engine turn a little faster at any given speed.
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Post by gross392 on Apr 26, 2011 10:57:37 GMT -5
I thought the lighter sliders really only effected the engine speed until the variator is fullly pushed out? I would have to guess that at 8k your variator is out just as much as mine with my stock rollers.
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Post by Bluefront on Apr 26, 2011 12:37:31 GMT -5
I don't know.....it seems like at 8K for instance, the 10gr sliders haven't pushed out as far as the 12gr rollers. I do know when I changed over to the sliders, my rpms read more than before the change, at higher speeds. Not a whole lot.....maybe 400-500rpms more at 60mph. It's hard to read that tach exactly....
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Post by gross392 on Apr 26, 2011 13:34:23 GMT -5
Yeah that sounds legit going from rollers to sliders. I know I have more power but i am being limited by the rpms being too high for my comfort. I dont even have to be WOT for it to get going ~55 (GPS) I need to figure out a way to lower the rpms because I really dont want to trailer my scooter 150 miles home when I could take leisurely backroads at 50-55 mph max. I am going to install a oil temp gauge after this week for some idea of how hot it gets around 8000 rpms.
Whats the max you ride at on your journeys? I dont really know how accurately this tach is to be honest. I just use it to gauge changes between belts and such. I rely on my ears mostly haha
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Post by Bluefront on Apr 26, 2011 17:34:54 GMT -5
Well I don't go on the interstates (except by accident .....the state roads around here are 50-60mph. I usually cruise around 50.....never in a hurry.
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Post by sprocket on Apr 26, 2011 18:21:20 GMT -5
The 16 wheel scooters have a second gear box. I have no idea of what ratios are being used on the final axle and if they are even changeable.
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Post by gross392 on Apr 26, 2011 21:41:57 GMT -5
Bluefront would you ever go 160 miles in a day on your scooter cruising around 50 or so? With about 6 stops or so to stretch out the back of course haha!
Sprocket, I will have to open this thing up and see for myself. Have you looked in there to check or have you heard that? Is that lifan of yours 16''er?
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Post by Bluefront on Apr 26, 2011 22:17:48 GMT -5
^^^^Well I haven't been on any long trips on this Xingyue, mostly just short day-trips of a hundred miles or less. On day I left early in the morning and drove about 150 miles or so. Last summer was really hot most every day......by 1pm it was usually 90 or more. So I tried to be home by then. I managed about 9K miles between April and November last year....a fair amount of riding on a 150 scoot.
The scoot was never a problem on any of the rides.....it's a comfortable scoot compared to many bikes I've owned. I'm using a gel seat pad which saves my butt, but my back is not up to much more than three or four hours ride time.
The weather has been mostly bad this spring, but I hope to do as many miles this spring/summer as last year......that would put me at 18K on the odometer. I've got 7.8K to go. ;D
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Post by Bluefront on Apr 27, 2011 4:35:33 GMT -5
As I stated a few posts back.....I'm trying for better mpgs this summer. I'm still calculating, but here's what I've done so far.... Returned to a #107 main jet from my #112.5 of last year. Switched to #87 octane Shell from #91 octane (supposedly gives better mpgs). And my latest mod..... An airflow improvement. I've great hopes for all this....maybe get 65+mpgs if I'm lucky. After another five tankfuls or so, I can draw some conclusion. And here's the 92x38mm fan I've been using this past year or so....notice the aluminum heat deflector I glued onto the hub. I've got a few spare fans if this one ever fails.....I used it constantly last summer, without trouble.
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Post by Bluefront on Apr 27, 2011 5:12:37 GMT -5
As most Xingyue owners should know.....there is a final gearbox reduction setup on this scoot, different from the usual GY6. I've found only one service manual (ECharm 150) that goes into any great detail on the thing....but the photos aren't all that great. Anybody with a better manual/photos please let us know...
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 2, 2011 14:18:27 GMT -5
my bike speedo will be this in a few days: ebay link tinyurl.com/5v55o6eComputer Odometer Speedometer m/h seller st_xad2009 90x48x23mm I am putting a span of SS wire pairs between the rotor bolts - enought to keep the rotor even - rode in today without the magent mounted and had no vibration or brake issues. Clears the caliper no problem. I may switch to a flat piece of steel to help keep the wieght more even. I will need to extend the inductor wire, but nearly anything will do in the 28guage area. LAN or phone wire... just two strands and a bit of weather proofing. I hope the backlight is as bright as in the ebay picture - the Km per hour only speedo I have only has RED, and it is extreamly dim. I was going to add a small strip of 3 or 4 or 5 LEDs to the perimeter. Measured with a large HarborFrieght caliper, my front tire is 561mm in diameter. I also need ot be sure to re-loctite all the rotor fasteners when it is all ready to go.
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Post by gross392 on May 2, 2011 18:21:09 GMT -5
I switched back to my shorted belt today which lowered the rpms back to usual.
I'm wondering if someone can do me a favor and check their scooter's clutch? my stock belt seems like it is too thick to reach the bottom of the clutch in the back. When I pulled the clutch all the way open, like it would be at full speed, there was still about an inch or so to the main shaft of the clutch. is this normal?
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Post by Bluefront on May 8, 2011 17:19:45 GMT -5
^^^^Sorry...can't help you out there.
This mpg testing has been going slower than I had hoped. To be somewhat accurate, you need to go through quite a few tankfuls, doing your "normal" sort of driving.
Initial results are very promising.......over the last two tankfuls I'm right at 70mpg, which is what I was getting with the stock #103 main jet, the OEM 12gr rollers, and no air cleaner mods. Since I started this mpg thing, I was checking the mpg improvements, after each new change. The last change to the air box (the two new intake snouts) seems to have made the biggest difference.
Next up......I'm considering going to some 12gr sliders (10gr are in there). This engine seems to have gained some torque after that last air box mod.....maybe it'll have acceptable acceleration now, and be running at a somewhat lower rpm.
The MPG testing continues...........70mpg and counting. ;D
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Post by gross392 on May 8, 2011 17:45:39 GMT -5
Bluefront- when you go to change your rollers your check to see if you belt fits all the way to the shaft on the clutch or not, please.
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Post by ilovgeeksnj on May 8, 2011 20:47:12 GMT -5
sweet
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 8, 2011 21:37:36 GMT -5
I removed the EGR and routed the vacuum line - a 4way T - #one from the manifold, #two for the slider, #three to the petcock, and #four to the canister. I capped the large line that was from the EGR valve to the intake elbow ahead of the carb (T'ed to the canister). with the 10g sliders, running 7000rpm, my mileage seems to have gotten worse - one tank was only 48mpg. (with a very inaccurate speedometer and who knows how inaccurate odometer?) I do need to check the intake and exhaust valves, and install the new jets.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 19, 2011 9:52:54 GMT -5
Valves were very tight- 0.0015 feeler was a tight fit. Set to 0.004 but now they are very noisy. I dont have a 0.003 or 0.0035 between two feeler guage sets. Go figure! Are we using inches or mm?
pulled the carb - missing a screw from the bowl, found a suitable replacement. Missing a screw form the throttle cable bracket, and the second screw was out a few turns. both screws for the cold start solenoisd were loose, and the solenoid is a very tight fit - I'm not sure if it is seated right yet. Replaced the jets with a 38 and a 112.5. Fires up and keeps running -high idle- from cold where before it would run a minute and stall. I didn't change the idle mix screw. It is at 1.75 turns from the bottom. From seat of the pants, I dont feel any difference. Still topped out at 55 (GPS) downhill and then dropped to 46 (GPS) going up the other side. Maybe it feels like it cruises at 50 (GPS)more easily. Haven't ridden far enough for a fuel stop yet either.
Anyone have a vacuum line diagram(s) with and without the PAIR and/or the canister?
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Post by Scoot-Hacker on May 19, 2011 11:57:35 GMT -5
You seem to have a lot more vacuum lines than my scooter came with. I had a single T-splitter, one vacuum line for the carb & the other for the fuel pump. I eventually went to an electric fuel pump, because my motor didn't make vacuum enough, to operate both parts and hold any speed above 45mph. Now with the only vacuum draw being for the carburettor slide, it will hold a solid 55mph, and will hit 60mph, if I really push it. Not to mention throttle response is a lot snappier. Almost EFI-like! So you should see some improvement in throttle response and speed holding, with fewer vacuum accessories. If it were me, Id even see about a manual fuel valve to replace the vacuum petcock and just running a single vacuum line to the carburettor.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on May 20, 2011 16:44:10 GMT -5
I did get the manual valve that Bluefront recommended. But not yet installed. I picked up a new set of feeler-gauges that lists the 0.003 and a 0.0025 in case I want to get even quieter on the valves.
I could skip the canister and use the vacuum Y for the carb and the fuel valve.
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Post by Bluefront on May 20, 2011 18:44:54 GMT -5
^^^So you got a manual gas shut-off? The valve is setup to have a reserve position....like in the old days when bikes had no fuel gauge. I didn't want to use that reserve, so I took the intake tube off my old vacuum valve, and put it in the new manual valve (easy). I'm only using a single vacuum line now, running to the cut valve port on the carb. The scoot had a "T" fitting setup, with a vacuum line running to the PAIR device (now removed), and another vacuum line running to the vacuum fuel shut-off (now removed). Less pieces= fewer things to fail. I'll probably replace the leaking crank seal tomorrow.....along with an installation of Scrappy 12gr sliders. I'll check that belt thing......post pictures of the procedure.
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Post by Bluefront on May 21, 2011 18:13:20 GMT -5
Well my little surgery on the scoot went ok.......new crank seal, new 12gr sliders from scrappy, repacked the inner bearing in the clutch, sanded the clutch shoes and the drum, etc. I did a 30mi road test which went ok.....no signs of any oil leaks so far. I did learn a bunch of stuff about this scoot.....took a bunch of photos. I'll probably sort everything out in a day or so.
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Post by Bluefront on May 22, 2011 5:46:10 GMT -5
First things first.....gross392 asked about the belt. Here are two photos before I took anything loose. As far as the clutch pulley end......from the looks of it, the clutch pulleys are expanding all the way at high speeds. There were no obvious marks on the clutch pulley faces that would indicate otherwise. I did not take the clutch apart however. I left the belt installed, pinched in place by the pulley torque spring.
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Post by Bluefront on May 22, 2011 6:16:56 GMT -5
Here's the deal about this crank seal leak......which was minor, and only left a few drops occasionally on the floor after parking overnight, with the scoot on the side-stand. The oil dripped out the small drain hole toward the rear of the CVT cover. How to tell if it's the crank seal, and not something else doing the leaking (like the transmission seal).....you have to look inside the cover. If it really is the crank seal, you'll see a clear line of fresh oil (the arrow), with some dust sticking around the edges of the fresh stream of oil. On this scoot there was some dust sticking around the edges of the rear transmission seal (normal seepage) but no fresh oil stream. My engine oil level would drop slightly after 800miles or so.....but the trans oil never dropped. The leak was from the crank seal...... FWIW.....I replaced the stock seal with a Honda seal. It's 2mm deeper than the stock seal......fits just fine, and makes the seal lip ride 2mm further in on the crank, avoiding any wear groove from the OEM seal (didn't see any groove though). The kick starter gear (which must be removed) just popped right off this engine (while in the frame). I really didn't need to use the big puller I bought. On the junk standard 150 engine I have, this gear was really tight and required a puller to get it off. I cleaned up the shaft with some 1500 grit sand-paper before the new seal was installed..... The seal can be installed almost all the way by using both thumbs to push the seal....be careful the seal starts evenly all the way around. For the last little bit, I used a flat-bottom punch, carefully tapping a little at a time all the way around. When finally installed the new Honda seal sits level with the outer edge of the casting (exactly as deep as the OEM seal). No leaks so far with this new seal, but I've only got 30 miles on it. The old seal started to drip out somewhere around 6K miles or so. I'm hoping this new high-quality ( ;D) Honda seal will never leak again. Next up....the differences between a standard GY6 engine, and this GY6B engine, the differences noted during this seal replacement job. Stay tuned......
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Post by Bluefront on May 22, 2011 13:19:40 GMT -5
The differences inside the CVT cover between a standard 150 GY6 engine, and this Xingyue GY6B. I have a Tank 150 long-case standard GY6 engine to compare against. The variator.....as has been noted previously, the GY6B has a 123mm variator, compared to a 115mm variator on the std GY6. The crank shaft is a bigger diameter on the outer section of the GY6B. A standard GY6 variator won't slip over the bigger crankshaft. What's the same.....both engines use the same crank seal (19.8/30/5mm), the same kick starter gear, and the rollers/sliders are the same. The nut on the end of the crank is the same........everything else is different. The clutch assy.......it's bigger in diameter, and the trans shaft size is bigger. A standard gy6 clutch won't install. Since the trans shaft is bigger, so is the seal. This GY6 has a 22/35/5mm trans seal. Here's the trans seal (green arrow) What's the same.....the clutch bell seems to be. The bell off my Tank 150 fit right on this Xingyue....seems to be identical. The nut on the end of the shaft is the same. I don't know about the clutch shoes, or the springs (didn't have that apart). Here's photo of the two clutches...... Obviously bigger all the way around....... That's about it......assembly/disassembly should be the same as a standard GY6. Be careful when you order parts for this engine....
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johnd
Big Dawg
XingHue XY-150T-7
Posts: 22
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Post by johnd on Jun 1, 2011 10:41:29 GMT -5
Need new Battery for my 07 Xinghue ita 150, mine finally wont charge. I'm going over to sears to replace it. Should I get same size? Also, ive been kicking it to start for the last several months, due to the dead battery. I notice now that its taking more kicks to start. Would a spark plug change help that. Thanks. John
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 1, 2011 12:28:15 GMT -5
Any 12V battery that fits in the space would work.....the more amps the better. Mine is rated at 7A.....don't know if there's a 9A available that's the same physical size.
Hard starts.....could be a bunch of things. See what happens after you get a new battery....
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Post by sprocket on Jun 1, 2011 17:51:20 GMT -5
Buy a 25Ah battery for a riding mower, mount it under the seat...the only way to go...
Also they are generally 1/3 the cost of a teeny tiny Chinese block of power...
Walmart has endless sales on these ...
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Post by Bluefront on Jun 2, 2011 3:47:54 GMT -5
^^^^^IMO.....Adding a much bigger battery in the seat bucket obviously will work, and might be a good option for someone who finds a good/big/cheap battery. But....such a big battery is really not necessary unless you live somewhere in the North that gets really cold in the winter, and you intend to ride all year round. The other possible use.....if your charging system has a problem, and you run off battery power all the time (like an electric scoot). For normal usage, the stock 7A battery works just fine......and gives you full usage of the seat bucket.
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