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Post by westcydr on Jun 8, 2007 17:13:59 GMT -5
As per the stickers on the bike, I got 15w-40 oil, gl3 gear lube, and standard 50/50 coolant.. What else should I have on hand for the regular changes?
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 8, 2007 18:29:53 GMT -5
Be very careful on the engine oil if this is the RR250. The sticker says .8L but the capacity is actually 1.2-1.4L. This will be covered in part 2 of the review that I will post this weekend. Stan
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Post by westcydr on Jun 8, 2007 18:59:39 GMT -5
well, I got one of those measuring things for when I add fluid. You tell me what I need, I shall add it. Oh, and dod yours come with alarm keys that do not in fact have the keys cut?
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Post by westcydr on Jun 9, 2007 11:00:15 GMT -5
I did the oil change, no hassle (had .4 l in it, I put in 1.4, which actually filled it). The gear lube, and the coolant, however, I am not too sure about. Is there a guide for changing these with the linhai engine on a 250 RR Race (the tlx uses a diff engine, and apparently, coolant and gear system as well)
Thanks..
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 9, 2007 11:37:10 GMT -5
Here is a clip from the RoadRunner article that I will post this weekend: Gear Oil Change & Air Filter This one should be simple, but it turned out to be more guess work than I like. The label on the transmission does not list a quantity, so I consulted the YP250 manual and it says to use .25L (8.5oz) of 30w motor oil. First, motor oil is not designed for gear box duty, but, I decided to see what was shipped from the factory. When I drained the oil, it is obviously gear oil and not motor oil, and the quantity drained was .35L (12oz). So, I refilled it with the same quantity removed and used 75w/90 full synthetic gear oil. This is where an Owners Manual becomes important so you know what the manufacturer had in mind, but since I don’t have one, I feel confident that the quantity will work fine. If you over fill the gear box, it has a vent at the top, and any excess would be forced out, but it does make a mess. Since I have been running with 12oz in it, I’m confident this will not be a problem. The drain plug is a 12mm hex with a copper sealing washer, and is located at the low point of the gear box. The fill plug is the white thumb type plug between the shock mount and wheel at the top in the photo. You can also see the vent outlet in the photo between the fill plug and the shock mount. I did the oil change, no hassle (had .4 l in it, I put in 1.4, which actually filled it). The gear lube, and the coolant, however, I am not too sure about. Is there a guide for changing these with the linhai engine on a 250 RR Race (the tlx uses a diff engine, and apparently, coolant and gear system as well) Thanks.. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 9, 2007 11:41:45 GMT -5
Yes, the switchblade key on the remote are not precut on any scooters that I know of, but any locksmith should be able to cut them for you if you like. Stan well, I got one of those measuring things for when I add fluid. You tell me what I need, I shall add it. Oh, and dod yours come with alarm keys that do not in fact have the keys cut? |
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Post by fulltimerart on Jun 9, 2007 13:42:57 GMT -5
 I got 2 remotes with my CFMOTO and had both keys cut---lo and behold, they are not quite long enough to go all the way into the ignition switch-I have the switch that has the little flapper that you can twist into position to hide the keyslot as an "anti-theft" feature. The keys work in the glove box and seat locks so I am trying to figgure a way to make them a little longer now. Art
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Post by westcydr on Jun 9, 2007 13:44:58 GMT -5
Every place I call or go to seems to not be able to cut them..
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Post by westcydr on Jun 9, 2007 19:17:37 GMT -5
On mine it was a 10mm bolt with no washer, and seeing as the oil was a liter low, how do I really know how much gear lube to put in it? I know it's not you who put this thing together, I was just wondering what you might think about this.. For now, I will put in 12 oz of the only thing i could find saying it was gl-3 compatible, 85w90. I can post a pic of the drain if you like.. So now I have changed the gear fluid, and the oil, all that is left is the coolant, but before I can really ride, I have to get the paperwork, and to be technically correct, take the MSF, and get a fuLL M (not just a permit) anyway, without the MSF course, if I die, the military will swipe my insurance money from my family... Here is a clip from the RoadRunner article that I will post this weekend: Gear Oil Change & Air Filter This one should be simple, but it turned out to be more guess work than I like. The label on the transmission does not list a quantity, so I consulted the YP250 manual and it says to use .25L (8.5oz) of 30w motor oil. First, motor oil is not designed for gear box duty, but, I decided to see what was shipped from the factory. When I drained the oil, it is obviously gear oil and not motor oil, and the quantity drained was .35L (12oz). So, I refilled it with the same quantity removed and used 75w/90 full synthetic gear oil. This is where an Owners Manual becomes important so you know what the manufacturer had in mind, but since I don’t have one, I feel confident that the quantity will work fine. If you over fill the gear box, it has a vent at the top, and any excess would be forced out, but it does make a mess. Since I have been running with 12oz in it, I’m confident this will not be a problem. The drain plug is a 12mm hex with a copper sealing washer, and is located at the low point of the gear box. The fill plug is the white thumb type plug between the shock mount and wheel at the top in the photo. You can also see the vent outlet in the photo between the fill plug and the shock mount. I did the oil change, no hassle (had .4 l in it, I put in 1.4, which actually filled it). The gear lube, and the coolant, however, I am not too sure about. Is there a guide for changing these with the linhai engine on a 250 RR Race (the tlx uses a diff engine, and apparently, coolant and gear system as well) Thanks.. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 9, 2007 20:16:07 GMT -5
The bolt size probably is 10mm, but the hex was 12mm. Your reference is actually more accurate, but most don't think of metric fasteners in anything but the hex sizes, so that's what the difference probably is, or, they found some with a smaller head and the same size bolt diameter. Who knows. Anyway, Yamaha says 8.5oz (.25L)and it was shipped with 12. But it isn't blowing any out, so I'm sticking with 12 oz. GL3 is an obsolete standard which is why it was hard to find. Use what you have an you'll be fine. Stan On mine it was a 10mm bolt with no washer, and seeing as the oil was a liter low, how do I really know how much gear lube to put in it? I know it's not you who put this thing together, I was just wondering what you might think about this.. For now, I will put in 12 oz of the only thing i could find saying it was gl-3 compatible, 85w90. I can post a pic of the drain if you like.. So now I have changed the gear fluid, and the oil, all that is left is the coolant, but before I can really ride, I have to get the paperwork, and to be technically correct, take the MSF, and get a fuLL M (not just a permit) anyway, without the MSF course, if I die, the military will swipe my insurance money from my family... Here is a clip from the RoadRunner article that I will post this weekend: Gear Oil Change & Air Filter This one should be simple, but it turned out to be more guess work than I like. The label on the transmission does not list a quantity, so I consulted the YP250 manual and it says to use .25L (8.5oz) of 30w motor oil. First, motor oil is not designed for gear box duty, but, I decided to see what was shipped from the factory. When I drained the oil, it is obviously gear oil and not motor oil, and the quantity drained was .35L (12oz). So, I refilled it with the same quantity removed and used 75w/90 full synthetic gear oil. This is where an Owners Manual becomes important so you know what the manufacturer had in mind, but since I don’t have one, I feel confident that the quantity will work fine. If you over fill the gear box, it has a vent at the top, and any excess would be forced out, but it does make a mess. Since I have been running with 12oz in it, I’m confident this will not be a problem. The drain plug is a 12mm hex with a copper sealing washer, and is located at the low point of the gear box. The fill plug is the white thumb type plug between the shock mount and wheel at the top in the photo. You can also see the vent outlet in the photo between the fill plug and the shock mount. |
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Post by westcydr on Jun 12, 2007 11:09:10 GMT -5
ok, now for the duration between changes, as the scooter says 300 miles, and then every 1k miles.. does it mean miles, or kilometers?
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 12, 2007 15:03:11 GMT -5
The service schedule on my site is in KM, but in reality, it could just as well be miles. However, for the cost of a quart and a half of oil, I'd do it on KM since you do not have a filter on these engines. Better safe than sorry. Stan ok, now for the duration between changes, as the scooter says 300 miles, and then every 1k miles.. does it mean miles, or kilometers? |
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Post by monty57 on Jun 12, 2007 20:25:06 GMT -5
I spoke with Evosales the other day and one of the items they are working on bringing to market is a maintenance kit. He said it would have the proper engine oil, gear lube and spark plug. I suggested maybe two kits. The basic as described above and possibly another including a drive belt.
This would be a convenient way to get the items you need for your scheduled service. I hope they work it out soon.
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Post by westcydr on Jun 29, 2007 9:49:13 GMT -5
Now that I am legal to ride it (MSF course was nice, now I am thinking of getting a motorcycle as well as a scooter) I put a few more KM on the scooter.. still not "broken in" (I hope) because it is almost keeping up to road speeds here (40-50 mph or so).... I cannot wait to get info on the actual amount of gear fluid and whatnot, and I am still afraid to deal with the belts.. good thing it's under 300 km so far... Well, I am going to go for a ride now..
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Post by westcydr on Jun 29, 2007 11:41:28 GMT -5
I do not think 12 oz is the right amount, the transmission does not seem to like it. Is there such a thing as overfilling it? I would like to add more, but I do not know what is too much... Here is a clip from the RoadRunner article that I will post this weekend: Gear Oil Change & Air Filter This one should be simple, but it turned out to be more guess work than I like. The label on the transmission does not list a quantity, so I consulted the YP250 manual and it says to use .25L (8.5oz) of 30w motor oil. First, motor oil is not designed for gear box duty, but, I decided to see what was shipped from the factory. When I drained the oil, it is obviously gear oil and not motor oil, and the quantity drained was .35L (12oz). So, I refilled it with the same quantity removed and used 75w/90 full synthetic gear oil. This is where an Owners Manual becomes important so you know what the manufacturer had in mind, but since I don’t have one, I feel confident that the quantity will work fine. If you over fill the gear box, it has a vent at the top, and any excess would be forced out, but it does make a mess. Since I have been running with 12oz in it, I’m confident this will not be a problem. The drain plug is a 12mm hex with a copper sealing washer, and is located at the low point of the gear box. The fill plug is the white thumb type plug between the shock mount and wheel at the top in the photo. You can also see the vent outlet in the photo between the fill plug and the shock mount. I did the oil change, no hassle (had .4 l in it, I put in 1.4, which actually filled it). The gear lube, and the coolant, however, I am not too sure about. Is there a guide for changing these with the linhai engine on a 250 RR Race (the tlx uses a diff engine, and apparently, coolant and gear system as well) Thanks.. |
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Post by monty57 on Jun 30, 2007 20:32:34 GMT -5
FYI,
I finally decided to try and have the remote keys cut. They managed to complete one after I removed the key from the unit but said they could not get to other to cut with bending it?? I don't get it. If it cut both sides of one it should cut the other key the same way?? Well I have one that works and one with only one side cut. I am going to try another locksmith soon.
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I got 2 remotes with my CFMOTO and had both keys cut---lo and behold, they are not quite long enough to go all the way into the ignition switch-I have the switch that has the little flapper that you can twist into position to hide the keyslot as an "anti-theft" feature. The keys work in the glove box and seat locks so I am trying to figgure a way to make them a little longer now. Art