Another cooling thread/question

[luciano136]

Ok, cooling on the 172MM 250cc scoots. I read some stuff about it but want to make sure I have things straight.

* There's a white reservoir in the front
* There's a black reservoir in the middle

When the coolant level in the black reservoir gets too high, it flows to the white one in the front? Correct?

So, last night, I looked in the white reservoir = completely empty. Then I took the lid off the black reservoir and it seemed wet but didn't see any coolant either (I could only look partway down the 'hose').

Sooo, as for refilling (or topping off). Do I just refill the black reservoir up to the top? I guess you can't overfill as the white reservoir is the overflow, right? What coolant should I buy?
I also guess you can never check your coolant level? That's pretty annoying...

Thanks so much!!

[luciano136]

Anyone? ;D

[monty57]

Well, if not else is willing, I guess I'll take a stab.

First, I am not sure what you mean by a "black" reservoir. Do you mean the radiator? If so, yes if the coolant get too hot it flows to the white overflow tank and when the engine cools it should draw it back to the radiator.

I would top off the radiator and with the cap off run the engine a little to get the air out of the system. Top off if needed. Then you want to put some in the overflow tank. About a 1/2 tank if there are no marks. If there are marks you will probably see a "Hot" level and "Cold" level. Fill to the "Cold" level.

As far as what to use I think one of the Premix types that are already mixed 50/50 is good choice as you do not have guess about anything. Also make sure it is compatible with an aluminum engine. I used the Prestone 50/50 Premix.

Also this may be a good time to completely drain, flush and re-fill. I have posted a step by step process on the site.

scootdawg.proboards59.com/index.cgi?board=200cc&action=display&thread=1178307399

There are also several other threads on the cooling system you may want to read to find out how it works.

I hope this helps answer some of your questions.

[luciano136]

Monty, thanks so much for the info! So, not having anything in the overflow tank isn't necessarily a bad thing? My temp gauge seems to work (it always goes up a little below halfway or halfway when it's really hot out).

The repair manual that was recently posted here on the forum stated use coolant that's 30% grade. Does that mean a 30/70 mix should be used instead of a 50/50 mix? If the 50/50 works fine, then I obviously want to go with that as it's easier...

I'll probably just top it off for now and then flush it later. I have less than 1000km on it...

[monty57]

I know most of the people on this forum have said 50/50. I am using that ratio and my scoot runs cool.

As far as waiting to flush, I don't know if your scoot was purchased new but if it was the common thinking as well as the factory recommendation is change all fluids (engine oil, gear oil and coolant) after the first 300km break-in period. In all engines and gear boxes there is certain amount of polishing that take plays during this period where part rub against each other and polish themselves together. This can cause some very small amounts of the metal to shed during the normal process and contaminate the fluid. Left in the engine or gear box they can cause wear in other areas they shouldn't. Thus the recommendation to change to fresh fluids after this initial period.

Once again if these processes are not familiar to you, I have posted threads on this site on how to change the coolant and another on how to change the engine oil and gear lube. Although my scoot may be a different brand than yours, I believe they have the same engine, so the information should be usable.

Good luck and good riding.

[livewire]

I don't know if it matters, ut when i was ready to change my coolant i did some reasearch and i found it was supposed to be a 50/50 mic of silicate free anti-freeze.....i found it in a cycle shop. Also there are hi and lo marks on the resevoir. I believe the coolant in the cold state should be between those marks.

[luciano136]

Thanks for the info! I did change engine oil and gear oil. Nothing was mentioned about the coolant though?

[Jacine]

I just keep the white tank up to the level with Dexon antifreeze. The bike has never run hot even in 115 degree temps. The system should work the same as a car if everything is working correctly. You usually do not remove the pressure cap on the radiator in a car, nor should you have to remove the one on the bike, unless refilling the entire system.

[luciano136]

Well, I topped off the radiator fluid last night. I had to add very little fluid; it looked like it was still full. I also added some fluid in the overflow tank. As opposed to Monty, it looks like my radiator cap is under the seat and the overflow tank next to the gas tank.

Either way, when I put some fluid in the overflow tank, it looks like it's leaking out a bit. As it's an overflow tank, probably not a big deal but I guess it shouldn't happen...

What is the use in putting fluid in the overflow tank anyway?

[WarrenS]

If the overflow tank is empty the radiator might get air in it. Air is bad because it can cause corrosion. At least that's what my mother says. ;D

[luciano136]

warstein said:

If the overflow tank is empty the radiator might get air in it. Air is bad because it can cause corrosion. At least that's what my mother says. ;D

So, those radiators aren't rust proof eh?

[monty57]

I am not sure but my radiator looks like it's copper from a couple of rock chips and I know the engine is aluminum but when I changed my coolant there was a lot of rust like gunk in the system. I am not sure how this can form in the system but maybe warstein (excuse me, warstein's mother) has a handle on it and it is a reaction to air in the system. Don't know for sure but there was lots of it in the system. I had to flush several time to get it to run clear.

Another reason I used a premix 50/50. I assume Prestone know what water works best with antifreeze as they say it helps fight corrosion. I hope there is some truth in advertising!

I plan on flushing again at about 600km just be safe.

[luciano136]

Hey Monty,

I used your advice and also topped off with some Prestone 50/50. I just wanted to be on the safe save in the meantime. I'll do the coolant flush sometime soon... Btw, it does mention on the bottle that it's safe to use for any engine type and safe to add to any coolant type...

Thanks!!

[monty57]

No problem! Glad I could help.

[WarrenS]

Oxidation of different metals doesn't always appear as rust. That doesn't mean there is no effect. Rubber hoses or pipes could deteriorate faster if air gets in the system. Now you made me get serious.

[swampsniper]

The liqud cooling system on ALL the 250CC scoots is suspect, time to stop making excuses for them all, and just tell them to make the damned things work.
What would I do if I was an importer, with a whole bunch of of scoots coming onshore, with cooling problems? Hell, there has got to be a way to put responsibility back where it belongs.

[linda]

I took my scooter for a short ride, my gauge shot up to hot, fluid bursting out. flushed out the radiator, bought a new cap 13psi, (the one that came with the bike 14psi, doesnot fit),. As I'm ready to put the plug in I notice the washer, half of it has melted. Now my radiator oozes out at a good speed. I'm hoping if I change the washer it will stop. I'm pretty sure my fan has never worked, will check the plugs, hopefully I can figure it out. I'm praying nothing else will happen. What a nightmare. Supposedly a brand new scooter. I think I've copied about 10,000 pages off of this coputer to try and fix the scoot. I was completely mechanically illeterate before this. I'm impressing myself, but it needs to stop.

[fulltimerart]

An easy way to check fan operation is to let the engine idle for 5 to 10 minutes and the fan should start and run for a couple minutes and then shut off (it's temperature controlled) but you really have to listen for it cause some of them are really quiet. Art

[buckeyescoot]

Linda42 -

A lot of us are right in there with you. There is a lot of great guys and gals on this forum that are willing to share their experience. For me, I half way expected these little things on a scooter costing less then $2000 versus their Japanese counter-parts costing $5-6000.

I bought mine (Roketa Bali 250) on-line and had it shipped to the house. This forum plus links to other good web sites is where I am getting most of my help. Hang in there!

Joe

[linda]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. I finally got my scooter working but taking it a day at a time. I agree this forum is excellent!. I was never that mechanicallly inclined and I've learned quite a bit. This forum puts my manual to shame. Now that I know to expect problems here and there, I'm ready to tackle them. Your right, for the money it's a good deal. As long as there little problems, that hopefully I can handle. When you don't know what your doing at first, they seemed a little overwhelming and frustrating. Thanks to scootdawg.com I'm much calmer.

Linda