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Post by kelvincasper on Dec 7, 2007 13:07:53 GMT -5
Hi:
It's to bad you had to let your 150 go. I kept mines when I got my 250. I ride the 150 around town for high mileage. If i take a trip of 30 miles or more i take the 250 because it gets the best mileage on long trips. I fix those gas companies one way or another. I also Stock gas in the winter. This past summer i never purchased gas once. I drove off 2.00 gas all sumer long with high scooter mileage to boot. Ha Ha Ha.
Kelvin
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MikeB
Junior Dawg
Die to Ride (and not vice versa)!
Posts: 11
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Post by MikeB on Dec 11, 2007 10:20:43 GMT -5
(new to the forum)
I got a Roketa Bali 250 back in October from AllNew Sports my findings so far:
The scooter came undamaged in about 4 days after ordering, the paperwork took 16 days.
After assembling the scooter, it would not start - tried holding throttle and it started. Adjusted the Idle speed on the carb (under seat/access panel) and tightened about 3 1/2 turns to get it to start without throttle and then adjusted Idle speed there. Later I used the throttle cable adjustment under the handle bar to adjust idle speed while simultaneously backing out the Idle adjustment screw on the carb.
This bike came without any decals except for a MC-TT250 designation on the rear panels.
The Manufactorur was the JMStar one (previously posted here). I checked all bolts and screws and cable fasteners and only found a few loose screws on body panels and a nut on the front brake lever adjustment lockdown.
The front brake has felts too tight since I've had the bike. Also, there is drag on the front wheel as the disk/rotor is warped a little. Half a revolution it turns free and half a rev it drags on the brake pad. I was able to improve it after bleeding the brakes and letting out a little brake fluid (the Master Cyclinder seemed too full). Now it still drags a little. When I removed the front wheel to put in some Dyna Beads (Dynamic balancing beads) in the front tire, I removed the brake disk and layed it flat on my (very flat) garage floor (concrete). It was obviously warped a little. I tried heating it up with a butane torch and then pressing it with ~300 lbs of steel weights while it cooled, it helped a little. Re-assembled and the wheel turns better but still drags. I have ordered a new disk/rotor and hopefully it will be true (flat) and solve the drag. The drag influences the stability of the front wheel at high speed and when braking. The balance beeds helped a little (I think). The other day I drove in the cold and the front wheel drag was pronounced again.
Will report on the new rotor once received and installed.
I broke the engine in per the manual (slowly) and it runs great. The only other significant problems I have encountered (besides front brake/drag) are that I could feel/hear a rumbling/vibration coming from under the bike at times, esp. after riding hard. I think I found the cause of that - the main stand has a round rubber bushing mounted on a prong which is welded to the stand post. The weld was off by about 1 1/2 inches and so the bushing was contacting the CVT cover and not the bolted on protection plate further inside the bike frame (obviously made to harbor the bushing). I hammered the bushing mount to bend it in (towards the bike center) and now the center stand rests nicely against the steel harbor plate. - No more vibration and the stand works great (used to stick in up position).
- Added Iridium plug - made it idle faster/better - re-adjusted accordingly.
- Noted that after first oil change, seepage around drain plug on bottom of crankcase. After reading some of the CFMoto engine manuals (references posted here), I believe that this plug is actually an engine oil pressure test point and that the drain plug on the side of the engine (where the oil strainer lives) should be used for changes. I put a copper washer on the pressure test plug and it solved the seepage (didn't want to crank the bolt too tight).
- I did note that the oil strainer base (rubber washer) seems a bit damaged, not perfectly round. It seems to seat OK so I left it.
All in all, the bike's been good to me so far. Have had the speedo up to over 78+ MPH (I believe it is off by 10 MPH) and this was about topped out engine power wise. I had my wife run her van at 30 mph, 40 mph etc while I followed so I could get the variance on the speedo, I believe it to be ~ 8 mph. (8 mph too fast on reading).
Enough for now, will report on the brake disk when it arrives....
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Post by scooterollie on Dec 11, 2007 14:15:22 GMT -5
Mike;
Welcome to the Dawg Pound!
Your experience with the brake rotor is not uncommon for Chinese scoots. Unless the warp is exceptionally excessive, it should not present a problem while under way and at speed, it should not be felt. You may have another problem. Most rotors will exhibit a tiny bit of drag at one spot or another when the wheel is spun. When pulsation is felt while braking, the warp is excessive. I don't think I would heat a rotor. Many folks have done similar things to metal parts that are supposed to have a temper - treated to harden the metal. Heating the part will remove the temper. If, as you describe, the pulsation is still very evident while braking, your best bet, as you say, is to replace the rotor. When installing the new rotor, make certain you tighten it by alternately tightening the bolts and to the correct torque. If the rotor mounting points on the wheel are not true, you may still have a problem.
I have seen the same thing on the rubber washer around the oil strainer. If in doubt, order another. They are cheap!
Thanks for your review!
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MikeB
Junior Dawg
Die to Ride (and not vice versa)!
Posts: 11
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Post by MikeB on Dec 11, 2007 19:45:55 GMT -5
ScooterOllie,
Thank you for your reply. I think your point about mounting the new rotor is very valid, in fact I'll just bet that the old one was tightened incorrectly at the factory which resulted in the warp. If the new one is true, that kinda proves it, if not, I guess it's just a Chinese quality issue.
When I dis-mounted the rotor, the allen sockets were extremely tight. I had to use a torque bar to brake 'em loose.
I'll be very careful with the new one (provided it is true and not warped), otherwise, I'll chalk it up to chinese quality and live with it. I'll tighten as you say and use a torque wrench.
I am fairly certain that the old rotor is warped, when I layed in on a flat surface it was lifted on one side (~2 - 5 mm).
I don't know what I would've done without this forum, what a wealth of info. I'm not exactly Mr. Motorcycle mechanic, sure I can change an alternator/oil/filters/etc. on an auto but never messed with brakes or engines (other than spark plugs).
How's your 250 doing?
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Post by "Big Guy" on Dec 11, 2007 22:54:44 GMT -5
Mike,
Ollie is right about not heating the rotor. A lot of Chinglish scoots come with a warped rotor due to improper installation, yet another QC issue ...
If you alternate the hex bolts on the new one with a torque wrench, it should be fine.
Another consideration while you're at it is to disconnect the ABS cylinder and run the brake line direct. The ABS has been known to lock up on these scoots (Jonway and Jmstar) and the last thing you want is your front wheel locking in an emergency braking situation.
You do have to bleed these brakes a few times to get them right. Everything on the China assembly lines is rushed, so it's up to you to get it right.
Welcome to the Dawg Pound, and good luck!
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MikeB
Junior Dawg
Die to Ride (and not vice versa)!
Posts: 11
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Post by MikeB on Dec 20, 2007 15:24:00 GMT -5
Mike; Welcome to the Dawg Pound! Your experience with the brake rotor is not uncommon for Chinese scoots. Unless the warp is exceptionally excessive, it should not present a problem while under way and at speed, it should not be felt. You may have another problem. Most rotors will exhibit a tiny bit of drag at one spot or another when the wheel is spun. When pulsation is felt while braking, the warp is excessive. I don't think I would heat a rotor. Many folks have done similar things to metal parts that are supposed to have a temper - treated to harden the metal. Heating the part will remove the temper. If, as you describe, the pulsation is still very evident while braking, your best bet, as you say, is to replace the rotor. When installing the new rotor, make certain you tighten it by alternately tightening the bolts and to the correct torque. If the rotor mounting points on the wheel are not true, you may still have a problem. I have seen the same thing on the rubber washer around the oil strainer. If in doubt, order another. They are cheap! Thanks for your review! Well, I got the new brake disk/rotor and it is deformed as much as the original (slightly). I guess I just wasted 30 bucks, should have consulted you guys first. Anyways, my 250 is running good at 600 km. Bleeding the brakes helped alot with the front wheel drag. It rolls pretty good now. At 1000 km will start replacing hoses and clamps along with eng/gear oil and inspect. Puttin' on about 150 km /week when weather is good. No other problems currently, thanks for the advice to all!  |
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Post by scooterollie on Dec 20, 2007 23:16:13 GMT -5
Mike;
Have you read other posts here on what we recommend as far as fluid replacements? Coolant drained, flushed and replaced immediately when you get your scoot. Chinese coolants usually have inferior corrosion inhibitors. Engine oil and gear oil sometime within the first 100 Kms. Engine oil again every few hundred miles until 1000-1500 Kms. Then once every 1000 miles (1600 Kms) or once/year, whichever comes first. You can change to synthetic then, if you prefer. Gear oil again at 1000-1500 Kms, then every 3000 Kms, or so. Brake fluid with DOT 4, a synthetic with superior heat resistance and less affinity to absorb water.
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MikeB
Junior Dawg
Die to Ride (and not vice versa)!
Posts: 11
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Post by MikeB on Dec 27, 2007 10:59:32 GMT -5
Yes Ollie, have already done engine oil and gear oil. Coolant this weekend. The coolant in the reservoir/overflow is blue and looks OK.
- Will also will do fuel lines. The fuel line from the tank to the filter came loose while driving the other day, spewing gas all over the hot muffler. Could have been a disaster. This is the one connection I didn't check. I reconnected and re-clamped and it appears solid. I'll bet the clamp was not postioned properly before.
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Post by scooterollie on Dec 27, 2007 20:26:30 GMT -5
Mikeborn;
The clamp on my fuel line at the tank bottom wasn't even installed over the nipple on the tank! Fortunately, I discovered it and didn't have the same experience! Glad you came through it safe and your scoot didn't self destruct.
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Post by pedhead on Oct 29, 2012 22:26:35 GMT -5
scooterchief; Can't do it! The CVT drive train copied from the Honda 250 does not allow enough clearance up to the engine to install anything larger than a 10" wheel/tire. If you look carefully in front of the tire, it is almost up against the crankcase. If your Bali is like mine, it has a 120/90X10" "oversize" touring tire - the max size which will fit. Rumor has it that the drive train is being re-engineered to accommodate a 12" rear tire and scoots with it will appear later this year. I have a 2007 roketa bali, the rear rim is cracked, also the same 120/90-10 but it looks like i have about an inch of clearance between tire and engine. has anyone attempted a swap up to a 130/60-13 or a 120/70 12? i need to replace my rim urgently and have also wondered if I can swap it for one from a different model? |
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Post by jlee on Oct 30, 2012 19:45:24 GMT -5
I have a 2007 roketa bali, the rear rim is cracked, also the same 120/90-10 but it looks like i have about an inch of clearance between tire and engine. has anyone attempted a swap up to a 130/60-13 or a 120/70 12? i need to replace my rim urgently and have also wondered if I can swap it for one from a different model? An inch of clearance means a 12" tire would be rubbing on the engine. Check the clearance with the scoot on the centerstand and the rear wheel off the ground. That should give you your minimum clearance measurement. |
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