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Post by tp555 on Oct 25, 2007 15:09:37 GMT -5
tweeks for the stock muffler.These are easy.First is to cut off the pigtail on the rear of the muffler.You have to drill out the rivets on the back section and remove the rear cap.Then use a 4" side grinder to cut it off.Pic. wm14.inbox.com/thumbs/1a_3c44f_7575f9c_tn.jpg.thumbThis does change the sound a bit.It gives you a putt sound that you didn't hear before.It will disappear if you leave the rear cover off or add a small pipe that covers the exit hole and is longer then your fake exhaust tip.The next tweek requires you to remove the muffler. I have the 4" round muffler on a roketa fiji.If you look inside the inlet side with a light you can see a funny baffle.Take a long (12") drill bit about 3/8" dia and drill out the baffle.Then shake the pieces out if you can. The sound seems to be quieter with the baffle drilled out and the putt sound almost disappears.Suprised me.If you did remove the back cover you can also drill down the rear of the muffler with the long drill bit into the small pipe and one baffle is in reach. I drilled mine and the noise didn't change at all.The intake noise was louder if you revved it.So this did some good but can't really say how much. All you need for this is a drill bit,drill and grinder if you do the rear pig tail cut.regards. |
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Post by earlwb on Oct 25, 2007 16:51:47 GMT -5
I like that.
Hey I wonder if anyone sells a larger diameter tubing version of the standard OEM type exhaust for these.
I know they have the performance exhaust systems, but they seem to all use a clamp or something for the muffler. A standard three bolt pattern exhaust pipe would be neat.
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Post by loudest143 on Jan 14, 2008 4:47:00 GMT -5
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Post by tp555 on Jan 14, 2008 5:41:01 GMT -5
Nice muffler if it can be gotten cheap.To bad I don't do ebay.The bolt pattern for the scoot has a 40mm bolt circle.The Id of the muffler is too big for a scoot,but if you can find one for a small cc motor it might work.Like a muffler from a 250 cc bike.
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Post by loudest143 on Jan 14, 2008 13:17:36 GMT -5
Why is the muffler ID too big? Just curious on your thoughts.....
LMO
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Post by tp555 on Jan 14, 2008 20:15:02 GMT -5
The 150cc engine needs about 1" dia pipes.The muffler in your post is for a 750 cc and looks way bigger then 1".The rest is observation of what happens when you something like that and the result is not good.Its been done before.You will have a loud and poor performing exhaust,but try it out if you want and tell us the result.
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Post by loudest143 on Jan 16, 2008 20:21:23 GMT -5
From the fine folks at Iron Pony comes some great information about this controversial topic. The service manager was kind enough to promptly reply to my question regarding the inside diameter of aftermarket mufflers. I asked why a larger diameter muffler WOULDN'T work on a small CC bike. His response is below, and I will keep up on this thread if I get a response to my question regarding the availability of their 'universal' 4 stroke exhaust. I trust these folks completely, as I have never received a bit of incorrect or even misleading information from their staff. Also, I got my email response in less than 12 hours. To date FMF exhausts has NEVER responded to my 2 emails. So, I WON'T BE BUYING THEIR PRODUCT. www.ironpony.com/(from the service manager) "It is going to make a difference whether the engine is a 2 stroke or 4 stroke. There is not going to be any "quote" power charts that would be applicable.(I asked if he was privy to any performance charts or equations related to muffler performance choices) However, any 2" inlet diameter will be too large for either a 2 or 4 stroke 150. DG, one of our suppliers offers a 2 stroke universal silencer in 1", 1 1/8", and 1 1/4" for $62.95. 4 stroke universal mufflers are available in a number of sizes also." loudest143 *bigger is not always better, apparently |
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Post by loudest143 on Jan 17, 2008 22:22:05 GMT -5
Update: I spoke to the Iron Pony parts manager today, and at the end of our conversation, he recommended theSupertrapp universal muffler kit. www.supertrapp.com/product_sections/cat.asp?CatID=35I like his idea, because of the amount of tunability. Share your thuoghts! loudest143 |
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Post by tp555 on Jan 18, 2008 7:29:52 GMT -5
For $60 its cheap enough to play with.You need an adapter to plug into your exhaust pipe.What type of muffler do you have now,the fat 4" job with large flange? The second is some way to bolt the body to your frame, bracket.Still for that price its worth it.The tunable part sounds good,but get your ride totally settled in first.Riding up hills with a stop watch in hand.I have done that quite a bit.
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Post by earlwb on Jan 18, 2008 7:39:01 GMT -5
Sounds like a good way of doing it. But it depends on if you need to buy defuser discs or not.
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Post by loudest143 on Jan 18, 2008 15:37:56 GMT -5
White Brothers makes a similar product, and I'm looking into it as well. Theirs is more like the stock canister muffler in shape, and may be easier to mount. Both would require removal of the stock flange at the muffler end of the pipe.
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Post by loudest143 on Jan 19, 2008 12:19:28 GMT -5
Exhaust issues for me addressed,(but not necessarily solved) through my favorite auction site. tinyurl.com/3yflml For a retail price of over 150 bucks, I likey my deal. :-) It's tuneable, and it gives me a large amount of flexibility to find the 'sweet spot' in the exhaust equation. The inlet size is not an issue, as it will slide over the large 'bulb' behind the exhaust flange on the stock pipe, after the flange is cut away. Should arrive sometime next week. All the pieces to the performance puzzle seem to be in place now, so we can see how it changes the overall performance of the bike. I'm looking forward to reporting on the progress. loudest143 *zoomzoom |
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Post by joschmo86 on Jan 22, 2008 21:29:47 GMT -5
Does anyone know what the use of the aluminum around the steel muffler is? My exhaust rattles because the rivets keep coming undone and its just the steel muffler sliding around in the aluminum casing. I was thinking of just using the steel exhaust. I don't think the aluminum would help protect from leg burn since it is right against the steel....not sure though.
Any Ideas?
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Post by earlwb on Jan 23, 2008 6:45:22 GMT -5
Cosmetic, it looks better with the aluminum sleeve.
Steel with cheap paint on it, tend to get rusty in a short time. So they use the thin aluminum to make it look nicer. I suppose aluminum was cheaper than stainless steel to use as a sleeve.
You could go with a carbon fibre sleeve for the more radical cool look as well, like you see on some of the Sport Bike mufflers.
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Post by wildbill on Jul 10, 2008 13:23:17 GMT -5
anyone know where I can find the insurance discussions going on last night about different companies? wildbill
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Post by bike4miles on Jul 10, 2008 13:40:01 GMT -5
Does anyone know what the use of the aluminum around the steel muffler is? My exhaust rattles because the rivets keep coming undone and its just the steel muffler sliding around in the aluminum casing. I was thinking of just using the steel exhaust. I don't think the aluminum would help protect from leg burn since it is right against the steel....not sure though. Any Ideas? Aluminum actually transfers heat much more than steel does so the outside temperature would actually be less if that slever were made out of steel. |
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Post by isawhim on Jul 10, 2008 15:05:15 GMT -5
Aluminum actually transfers heat much more than steel does so the outside temperature would actually be less if that slever were made out of steel. Aluminum will feel hotter, because it transfers heat faster. (Absorbs it fast, and looses it fast... on your leg...) Aluminum will cool down faster, but will not be any cooler, while running. The only thing that will make exhaust cooler, is a ceramic coating on the inside of the exhaust, and an aluminum shield that does not touch the hot exhaust, with a ceramic coating on the side that faces the exhaust... (Provided that air has room to circulate under it, and carry the heat away faster than it is created.) The aluminum would help cool the exhaust down faster... if it was mounted firmly to the steel. If not, it just causes it to stay hot longer, since the air-gap would be insulation. They put a cheap aluminum shield, because that stops people from looking at the ugly rust that will be all over the exhaust, after the cheap high-heat paint starts to chip away from the cold rain hitting the exhaust. Aluminum does not rust... (So to speak)... it creates a patella of frosty white powder, which is similar to the unbuffed white aluminum surface. Aluminum is the "Cheap alternative to chrome". Rivets are the cheap alternative to a real mount. Might want to look into a real exhaust from an after market provider, as opposed to the "Make it work", OEM exhaust that most of these bikes come with. You can use a large exhaust clamp to fasten the shell tight against the muffler. Just hide the screw fastener behind the back of the exhaust. |
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