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Post by surfbum96818 on Jun 28, 2006 18:53:00 GMT -5
I have a leak between my exhuast and the head. When tightening didn't work I took it apart to inspect. I found that there was no REAL gasket there just some broken down rubbery material I scrapped it clean and replaced now as expected the air leak is even worse I stopped by a local bike shop and the guy had no idea what I could make one out of. ANY IDEAS  ? BY THe WAY LEW if you read this my exhaust had the ame lumpy weld spot inside. I didn't have have a good file so it is still there but I will get back to it when I fix the gasket problem. |
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Post by lewtwo on Jun 28, 2006 19:31:38 GMT -5
>>ANY IDEAS.<<
Stan has the ring gasket on his web site (you eill ned to know the diameter). I used the 23mm and had to take it down a few thousanths to get a good fit.
I can offer you some more exotic solutions (like turning a ring from soft cooper on a lathe), but save your self some heartburn and order the ring gasket. Might as well see if there is something else you need there at the same time.
In the mean time: Permatex High Temperature Silicon Form-a-Gasket. Be sure you exhaust flange is FLAT. I tried the highest temp flat gasket material available from the local Napa store. It eventually burned up. I suspect the form-a-gasket will as well, but it should get you by till you can get a proper gasket.
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Post by Jacine on Jun 28, 2006 20:16:22 GMT -5
It is best to have the proper gasket for the pipe, however you can get gasket material from Checker auto, Napa, etc and cut your own gasket. You can also use a liquid gasket sealant.
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Post by surfbum96818 on Jul 1, 2006 16:33:17 GMT -5
thank you both for your help. I really cannot express how great it is to be able to come in here and ask questions. Without this site I would be lost !!! THANKS DAWG!
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Post by limeracer on Jul 2, 2006 18:27:23 GMT -5
I once had this problem and went to my local motorcycle dealership and told them I had a 1989 Honda aero 125 (I really have a 2005 ching chow 150 with a GY6) and needed an exhaust gasket. Cost a couple of bucks and fit perfectly. In my opinion, you need at least part metal and part rubber and not a total rubber or permatex compound gasket. That is probably why you burnt up the first one in the first place. Permatex will only work if you already have a gasket- to make a better seal, or to try to get by with a partially pitted gasket (like a band-aid for gaskets). I would recommend ordering the right one then in the meanwhile go to your local jap bike dealership and tell them a "little white lie". You could take a tape measure to it and inspect the one the parts man gives you and "make sure he gives you the right one". Whatever you do, don't tell them what you really have or they will send you on your way elsewhere.
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Post by scooterollie on Jul 2, 2006 20:41:12 GMT -5
You could do a tracing, if possible, so they could try matching one from their stock. Maybe cut a mock-up from cardboard.
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Post by surfbum96818 on Jul 4, 2006 7:24:37 GMT -5
will do lime THANK YOU both for you help ( I also went to Oriellys and they have gasket material I can cut out if the bike shop lets me down ) Purchased NGK irridium plug for $6.99 also !!!
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Post by ooopseyesharted on Jul 6, 2006 20:40:12 GMT -5
6.99 for an iridium? ? man you suck......LOL thats a great price |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 6, 2006 21:02:48 GMT -5
I should have another size of the donut type gaskets arriving in a few days that are 30mm OD. However, if you look at your flange on a stock pipe, you'll find that it's bent from using the round gaskets (this is why the nuts come loose too). I suggest using a full surface gasket after straightening and sanding your flange flat. You should also smooth out the weld on the inside while you're at it. You can make the gasket fairly easily, but you should get high heat material that is about 1/8" thick. I have not been able to get the perfect sized full surface gaskets, but I do carry the oval full surface type that are very close and just need minor trimming. Any good auto parts house should have material available that will work for making your own though. Stan
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Post by fulltilt1 on Jul 6, 2006 21:15:01 GMT -5
You might also make a tracing of the flange size, hole and bolt placement take it to a small engine shop or parts house. They might have a match.
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Post by lewtwo on Jul 6, 2006 23:40:59 GMT -5
Air cooled engines get hot.
Exhaust temperatures can be in the range of 1200-1600 degrees F.
Direct contact head components can be up to 900 degrees.
Here in lies the problem.
Hight temp gasket compounds (permatex and the like) are rated at 700 degrees for short periods. I tried to find a high temperature fiber material. I do not know what Napa best is rated at but it burned up. I ordered some rated at 3000 degrees but it turned out to be a typo ... they had an extra zero (oh well, zeros are cheap).
The OEM exhaust gasket uses some kind of material encased in a thin metal ring to resist the high temperatures. At one time asbestous was frequently used but we all know how that story ends. I am still looking for some kind of high temp flat gasket material. Till them I will stick with the little OEM ring gasket.
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Post by medman1952 on Jul 8, 2006 12:48:12 GMT -5
OK here is something to try, go down to a hardware store and see if you can find a copper washer or ring that is as close to the right size as possible. Copper is soft enough it could squish to make a decent seal. I've never done this but it might work in a pinch.
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