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Post by dencho1992 on Jan 29, 2013 11:08:33 GMT -5
Ok everyone so heres the deal. i have a 2008 150cc BMS v9 Evo its also known as the heritage and a Znen model... at least i think. anyway it has a qmj157 gy6 engine and its been sitting in a parking lot for lets say about 8 months to a year.
I recently crashed my car so now this chinese scoot is my only way of getting around... if i can get it running hah
Problems in the past. so the reason i stopped riding it was becouse the spark plug seriously blew out like i was riding at full throttle for a while and it just POPPED and stopped running i looked an saw that the spark plug was hanging out. walked it home with a sad face and brought it to the only mechanic in town that would work on it. 120 dollars later turns out all he did was put a new plug in.. it popped out on the way home and walked it home again.. parked it in the parking lot and never rode it again untill now.
So here what ive done so far. i ordered a new cylinder head from ebay with the valves already set. cuz u know i figured the stripped head wouldnt work so well. next i sswitched it out and set the valves to .005 since i guess before i set the valves wrong causing the pop in the head. this time i double checked and made sure i did it right. after i set the new head in i cleaned out the carb i took it out and cleaned every crevis with carb cleaner. checked all fuel lines and vaccum lines the petcock work i tested it by sucking on the vaccum line that runs from the petcock to the carb and little spurts came out of the petcock when ever i would stop sucking. is it supposed to be like that or is it supposed to be a constant flow (it would go as this. id suck nothing came out, id stop sucking then a bit of fuel came out.) i changed out the fuel filter and replaced my battery with a new one. replaced fuse and made sure i have a spark by placing the boot with plug against a ground a starting the scoot.
now i dont have a preasure gauge so what i did to check preasure was put my thumb on the spark hole and tried to start it no matter how hard i pushed it popped my thumb off. theres fuel going to the carb and i reset the mixture screw by turning it all the way in then 2 and half turns out. changed the engine oil and gear oil. hmm i notced my muffler had rust inside it i thought it might be clogged with rust so i ordered a new muffler now regretting it becouse i blew through it and it was not clogged at all.. great.. so yea the scoot tries to turn over but nothing gives just bwuah bwuah bwuah bwuah bwuah same thing... gets a little tiny faster when i open the throttle but nothing.. i thought it might be the auto choke so i took it off and pushed it in a couple times it went smoothly and its a newish bike i bought it about a year ago beginning of 2012 oh i also derestriced the airbox a long while back by rmoving some of the filter cover and leaving jsut one filter instead of 3.
i really hope its not a engine problem for i already pourd 400 so far into this ressurection.. if anyone has some ideas to what it might be please let me know
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Post by rapidjim on Jan 29, 2013 11:30:32 GMT -5
When you installed the new head, did you make sure the engine was at top dead center and the small cam holes were aligned with the head and the big hole was on top (away from the head) before you put the tensioner in. Then rotate the motor at least two turns and double check?
Jim
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Post by leftwayleft2 on Jan 29, 2013 11:35:26 GMT -5
Did you have any other problems with it before this? Reason I ask I was looking at one yesterday.
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 29, 2013 13:09:57 GMT -5
@left of lefthis is old its 08
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Post by dencho1992 on Jan 29, 2013 13:32:14 GMT -5
OK what does left of left this is old mean its 08? yea its a 08 bike but I got it new... well it snot new but I mean I bought it like 2012 so its not that worn. but yes I did make sure it top dead center by the T marking on the fan. at first when I put the head on the marking was off by one tooth but I fixed it by loosening the chain tensioner then moving it over by a tooth so I fixed it and double checked by doing two full rotations and double check the T marking but idk I think I might check it again since I got time to kill until I get my new parts to put in the scooty.
Before I didn't have this problem the only problem I had was that I know I set the valves wrong so it blew the sparkplug out then it just wouldn't stay in but the engine would still start up for a bit then just blow out the plug once again so the compression probably was OK. just the female part for the plug was stripped so that's where the new head came to play. also keep in mind I order the valves preset into the head because I'm without the knowledge to set them my self. is there a chance that it was set wrong and that would cause it to eff it up? any way of checking this without taking the head out and using a valve tool on it? I mean if the compression psi reading comes back good then that should be the least of my worries am I right? Ha I'm so lost here any advice is loved!
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 29, 2013 13:49:19 GMT -5
was the piston all the way up ?
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Post by dencho1992 on Jan 29, 2013 16:03:34 GMT -5
piston all the way up when I changed out the head? I don't know I didn't check thatbut I did make sure that the T mark was lined up so it was at the top when I tok off and applied the chain back on. do u think if I did that wrong it could be the problem? whats the asure way to make sure that I lined it up right. the steps I took to make sure it was dead center was when putting back the chain on the cam i lined up the T then i put the chain on then tightened the tensioner. rotated the flywheel twice to make sure it was still lined up perfectly witht he T and it was but i can double check it. just incase tho if that's not the problem any other ideas? on this other forum this guy is saying i should bypass the petcock by making a gravity feed of fuel tot he carb? how do i do this using a funnel or something? and would it over flow the carb? i just don't wanna cause any more damage then whats alaready done.
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Post by yosemite on Jan 29, 2013 16:27:07 GMT -5
Ok, so we will assume the timeing is good.
1. Take the Spare Spark plug and check for SPARK. HOLD THE PLUG AGAINST the VALVE cover or the MOTOR itself NOT ON THE FRAME. You may have forgotten to GROUND the MOTOR to the FRAME or since it sat outside the GROUND WIRE is not making good contact on the FRAME.
2. IF you have SPARK holding the PLUG on the MOTOR then we can move on to fuel problem.
Check if it will fire with a little bit of gas.
Take the VACUUM HOSE coming from the INTAKE MANIFOLD where ever it is connected to A "Y" OR "T" get a cup you can squeeze together or something to put a little gas in and hold the Vacuum line up and pour a little bit of gas down the hose and directly into the motor.
Connect the Vacuum hose back up and try to start it.
If everything else is good IT SHOULD ATTEMPT TO FIRE or START and may die. BUT WE WILL then know it is a FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM.
Get back on the SPARK TEST and FUEL TEST.
Sam
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 29, 2013 17:01:57 GMT -5
OK what does left of left this is old mean its 08? yea its a 08 bike
sorry i was telling the new girl {lefty2left} that asked you if you had any other probs with it.
i was telling her that i assumed (sorry) that your scoot was old, i guessed you had been riding it for years |
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 29, 2013 17:02:00 GMT -5
the petcock seems to be behaving wrong. it only takes a little suction but you should get a steady stream when applied.
can easily be bypassed with hose long enough to forget it or a straight connector. this will not in general overfill or flood your carb. these petcocks are just supposedly idiot proof because every once in a very great while and by no means every scoot, the float will stick in the carb. really very seldom happens. every motorcycle i've had had manual petcock that i never turned off, and i bypassed it on my last scoot without ever having a problem. if it worries you, just bypass temporarily and replace when you can, but don't be afraid to get it running now.
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Post by dencho1992 on Jan 30, 2013 1:18:00 GMT -5
dyoung so if I removed the vaccum petcock and put a manual one like one maybe for a 50cc it would work and I wouldn't need a vaccum cock? (hah) so but the vaccum one has 3 hose on from the carb to the petcock and one from the instake manifold to the petcock which one would I block if changing to a 2 hole manual pet cock? how would I block it just clog up the hose? sorry super new to this. also anyone know about the uni filters? I upgrade my main jet to 115 and im afraid the stock air bock wont be enough flow I live in Washington so its always cold here I was thinking about getting a uni filter I guess the one I need is a 38mm one )11/2) inch what would I look for to find a extender fromt he carb to the filter im worried the the frame would get in the way of the filter so id probably need a extension but just might end up going ghetto and just cut out a piece from the previous air box. so not home now so I cant test those theories but I will as soon as I get home. but for now heres the video on my petcock im sure this is the problem but see its confusing because my carb always has fuel in it and when I try to start my scoot at least that's what the drain line tells me. video on my petcock - www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEGyGpQeonA |
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Post by rockynv on Jan 30, 2013 4:43:25 GMT -5
Doesn't the Heritage have the fuel tank under the floor boards? If so then that is a fuel pump and not a petcock.
If I remember correctly it is the same as the Vintage however there was the option to move the battery to the front of the seat and have a fuel tank in the back where the battery was.
If you tank is located in the back under the seat then you have a petcock however if there is a fuel door in the floor boards at the base of the seat then you have a fuel pump which could be corrupted from having ethanol sitting in it while its been idle all this time.
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Post by dencho1992 on Jan 30, 2013 6:22:19 GMT -5
Yea I t has a tank under wher the feet go and whats the difference between a fuel pump and a vaccum petcock? heres a video of the flow of gas from petcock/fuel pump to carb www.youtube.com/watch?v=15cr3wjrKOQ&feature=youtu.bealso if there is a minor crack in the instake manifold spacer would that cause no compression? it was a chip that broke off but t did not break the hole in the space so I assumed it would be ok. spark test on valve cover came back good there is spark. no oil on the tip of the plug tho this a problem? I did change oil and checked oil levels too it well above the oil line on the dip. I also put a little bit of gas into the intake manifold vaccum line that goes to the T connector the goes to the petcock/fuel pump and the carb. nothing happened when I tried to start it tho I did only put like a table spoon of gas didn't want to explode now  note also didn't replace any gaskets because they both looked great. |
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Post by rapidjim on Jan 30, 2013 11:48:46 GMT -5
Yea I t has a tank under wher the feet go and whats the difference between a fuel pump and a vaccum petcock? heres a video of the flow of gas from petcock/fuel pump to carb www.youtube.com/watch?v=15cr3wjrKOQ&feature=youtu.bealso if there is a minor crack in the instake manifold spacer would that cause no compression? it was a chip that broke off but t did not break the hole in the space so I assumed it would be ok. spark test on valve cover came back good there is spark. no oil on the tip of the plug tho this a problem? I did change oil and checked oil levels too it well above the oil line on the dip. I also put a little bit of gas into the intake manifold vaccum line that goes to the T connector the goes to the petcock/fuel pump and the carb. nothing happened when I tried to start it tho I did only put like a table spoon of gas didn't want to explode now note also didn't replace any gaskets because they both looked great. You have a pulse type fuel pump like on a snowmobile and by your video it is working correctly. Get a can of carb cleaner and spray a little into the throat of the carb ( where your air filter goes). See if it starts. If so you have a carb issue. If not, and you have spark, you either have a timing issue, valves incorrectly adjusted ( I use .004 inch for both), or a compression issue. Using the old head gasket is not a good idea even tho it looks okay. Jim |
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Post by dencho1992 on Jan 30, 2013 13:53:46 GMT -5
ever hear of a starter sparking? I just now notices that when I try to turn it over the starter sometimes sparks at the tip but it does not happen often I just thought that might indicate something but since I have a spark via valve cover I guess not?
wait .004? I set mine to .005 would it make that much of a difference? but I will double check it when I get home in a few hours. also I head about that the flywheel can come out of alignment and cause my timing to be off?
is it really a must to replace the gaskets? if so id like to know all the pieces I should replace after replacing my head cyl and I was not also sure about what parts to oil up but I put some on the cam and valve hammers. anything els I should lube up?
p.s. little worried that no matter how many times I try to start it the plug never has oil on it. btw I use fully synthetic 10-40
just also noticed that there is something that sounds like a nock when I try starting it its just a constant nock not to noticeable but its a nocking like sound.
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Post by rapidjim on Jan 30, 2013 14:27:12 GMT -5
ever hear of a starter sparking? I just now notices that when I try to turn it over the starter sometimes sparks at the tip but it does not happen often I just thought that might indicate something but since I have a spark via valve cover I guess not? wait .004? I set mine to .005 would it make that much of a difference? but I will double check it when I get home in a few hours. also I head about that the flywheel can come out of alignment and cause my timing to be off? Your discription really does sound like the valve timing is off. is it really a must to replace the gaskets? if so id like to know all the pieces I should replace after replacing my head cyl and I was not also sure about what parts to oil up but I put some on the cam and valve hammers. anything els I should lube up? p.s. little worried that no matter how many times I try to start it the plug never has oil on it. btw I use fully synthetic 10-40 just also noticed that there is something that sounds like a nock when I try starting it its just a constant nock not to noticeable but its a nocking like sound. |
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Post by yosemite on Jan 30, 2013 15:09:22 GMT -5
The .005 valve gap will not cause your problem. Also there shouldn't be OIL on your plug if anything wet with fuel if the spark plug is not fireing. But if you crank it trying to start it and it does NOT FIRE and you take the plug out and it is DRY then that indicates gas is NOT being sucked into the motor.
So You have to be sure the SPARK PLUG is fireing by holding it to the VALVE COVER OR MOTOR itself.
Would be a good idea to take the valve cover off ALIGN the cam sprocket with the two little holes even with the top of the head and take a picture then take a picture of the FLYWHEEL timing marks so we can see if the timing is within specs that it will fire at the right time.
The other item of concern is the COMPRESSION for all we know you might have a hole in the piston.
Sam
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Post by dencho1992 on Feb 3, 2013 18:01:45 GMT -5
ok so i got it running and even rode it for a while turns out it was the valve timing set incorrectly haha silly me but i resetted it by making sure the piston up up and locking the lfywheel so its all good there but now there a fuel problem but i will start that in a new thread. thank you everyone for your help im learning alot and im gratful you guys helped me!
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