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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 22, 2013 7:14:21 GMT -5
I read the threads and watched the videos and everybody made adjusting the valves seem simple and quick. I'm a half hour in to disassembly and can't even remove the valve cover yet. What a mess. Every component on this thing has a plastic housing over a plastic housing with six hidden screws and four trick latches. Ten minutes my @@@.
This is the vid I shoulda watched... stuff changes with time...
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Post by Lykos on Jan 22, 2013 8:29:34 GMT -5
...LOL
I thought it was just me who took over an hour and a half to do the valve adjustment. Then again... I'm so clumsy that I broke the head right off the bolt to my kickstart lever. It's a miracle that I did the valve adjustment without ruining my engine entirely.
I couldn't even take my fan plastics off, only enough to peak at the timing. I turned the variator side to line up the T because of this.
My adjustment was more like this video:
I did every single step exactly as egoraptor did.
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 22, 2013 9:14:35 GMT -5
lol, you 2 sound like me 2 years ago, but
once you get the hand off taking 'tuperware' off your scoot it get faster.
then again your 'tuperware' might be difficult.
on mine its
4 bolts/screws for seat bucket.
3 bolts for trunk handle/rack
pop off side plastics
remove 2 bolts on floorboard so i can angle it , out of the way.
engine is exposed
4 screws for fan cover,
4 bolts for valve cover
line up timing marks, line up marks by fly wheel
start adjusting.
but just like changing the brake pads on your car
1st time is 4 hours
every time it gets faster
believe me, this is a old, un mechanical woman talking also
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Post by millsc on Jan 22, 2013 11:02:32 GMT -5
it takes me 15 minutes it gets easier the more you do it
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Post by 50cc on Jan 22, 2013 11:05:29 GMT -5
Valve adjustment takes me 20 minutes since I'm a perfectionist, changing jets takes around 15 minutes, changing belt also about 15 minutes in the garage or 20 on the road.
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Post by beachbum on Jan 22, 2013 11:29:22 GMT -5
You learn over time which plastics you have to take off, and those you don't. I first took off the plastic and then I learned I just have to take out the seat bucket and I can get at it just fine.
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Post by spandi on Jan 22, 2013 11:56:24 GMT -5
The first time I took off the tupperware I was like Alice in Wonderland, it was a blur of wires and tubes. (it was hopeless! LOL!) But once the "road map" is in your head you'll be amazed at just how fast you can go.
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Post by spandi on Jan 22, 2013 11:59:19 GMT -5
Valve adjustment takes me 20 minutes since I'm a perfectionist, changing jets takes around 15 minutes, changing belt also about 15 minutes in the garage or 20 on the road. That's because Germans are born with a ratchet wrench in one hand and a micrometer in the other! |
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Post by danno711 on Jan 22, 2013 12:03:12 GMT -5
That's because Germans are born with a ratchet wrench in one hand and a micrometer in the other! ...and the Chinese are born with German blueprints in one hand, and an English dictionary in the other! ;D |
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Post by lovemy2strokes on Jan 22, 2013 12:08:55 GMT -5
You only need to take off the seat bucket in most cases, I havent found one yet that I had to remove the side plastics I should say. At this point I dont even need to look to hit the bolts on the fan and side covers. I do however adjust it cold and then warm so it takes more than a few minutes but most of the time the warm adjustments not needed unless its got 20k miles on it.
To change the belt on the side of the road or at home you dont even have to remove anything but the kicker cover. Its just like go kart belts, you pull the clutch or driven side in and pull it over the variator side. Only tool needed is a 8mm socket and ratchet. Its a tight squeeze but itll happen.
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Post by millsc on Jan 22, 2013 13:48:27 GMT -5
if you take the scooter totally apart once or twice it makes all stuff quite simple, its good to know every piece because they break quite often
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Post by lovemy2strokes on Jan 22, 2013 14:22:21 GMT -5
I hate removing the bucket plastics, if someone bone headed did it before they more than likely ham fisted the screws or over tightened them and broke tabs. Its always a roulette game going into it. I try to steer clear of removing plastics on chinese scoots.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 22, 2013 14:45:54 GMT -5
Good point, MillSC. I think my only complaints are timing; like, in the summer, I could work on my Scooter for an entire Saturday (if I have no PCs to fix which is what I do for a living at home). I would actually enjoy it. Once I get this thing going again, although I think I'm done upgrading, I do want to replace the hoses and get all the right screws back in the body panels because I've lost some.
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Post by larrball on Jan 22, 2013 15:00:32 GMT -5
You may be able to skip the fan cover removal. You should have a rubber plug that will pop off as so you can see the timing mark.  |
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jan 22, 2013 15:06:54 GMT -5
Yes I do have that, larr... quite the convenience
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Post by 50cc on Jan 22, 2013 16:34:28 GMT -5
Valve adjustment takes me 20 minutes since I'm a perfectionist, changing jets takes around 15 minutes, changing belt also about 15 minutes in the garage or 20 on the road. That's because Germans are born with a ratchet wrench in one hand and a micrometer in the other! ;D ;D ;D No, I just have my whole under-seat storage filled with tools, belts, carb parts, etc. Makes my bike 10 kg heavier, but I'm ready for the bikepocalypse. No matter what happens I can repair it on the road. And I'm more like Russian than German, jusz live in Germany  |
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Post by inuyasha on Jan 22, 2013 17:03:40 GMT -5
That's because Germans are born with a ratchet wrench in one hand and a micrometer in the other! ;D ;D ;D No, I just have my whole under-seat storage filled with tools, belts, carb parts, etc. Makes my bike 10 kg heavier, but I'm ready for the bikepocalypse. No matter what happens I can repair it on the road. And I'm more like Russian than German, jusz live in Germany Ïðèâåò. Áåðåãè ñåáÿ Èñêðåííå Âàø Hank |
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Post by kyle401 on Jan 22, 2013 18:55:44 GMT -5
Just take the seat bucket out, I have a cy50a. It only takes me 15 mins
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Post by Fox on Jan 22, 2013 19:34:25 GMT -5
Yeah you are doing it the hard way wuzthedeal. Once you pull the seat bucket out and remove the luggage rack you simply pull upward on the black plastic piece and it unsnaps from the floor board allowing the entire rear plastics come off as one unit. 10 minutes tops.
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Post by lancecharming on Jan 23, 2013 13:44:28 GMT -5
My Lance Charming 50 looks like a nightmare to get at the valve cover. Seat bucket won`t come out without removing all the plastic stuff and breaking the tabs, making them useless...
But my Motofino is designed really well. You can take off the two side fenders with normal screws and access everything. It looks like I can get the valve cover off without removing the seat bucket. It`ll be my first valve adjustment on a scoot this spring. I`ve done it on air-cooled Karmann Ghias and Fiats with shims. So it shouldn`t be too bad.
One question- after you adjust the first valve, do you have to rotate the engine 180 degrees or do you adjust both without doing that? On the cars, you had to rotate 180 degrees between intake and exhaust valves.
Also, what mileage is adjustment time? I hear everything from 500 miles to 3,000 miles. I seem to hear every 1500 miles the most. I`m at around 1300 now.
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 23, 2013 17:37:41 GMT -5
My Lance Charming 50 looks like a One question- after you adjust the first valve, do you have to rotate the engine 180 degrees or do you adjust both without doing that? On the cars, you had to rotate 180 degrees between intake and exhaust valves. Also, what mileage is adjustment time? I hear everything from 500 miles to 3,000 miles. I seem to hear every 1500 miles the most. I`m at around 1300 now. question1 i never have question 2 i start listening really hard at 1000 miles for tapping but sometimes i dont hear 'em rapping away till over 2000 just depends, good to have a set time, but i just go by ear |
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Post by yosemite on Jan 23, 2013 17:58:15 GMT -5
The valves usually get TIGHT not LOOSE the tell tale sign is hard starting won't hold an idle at low rpms and loss of power. A little loose valve is a happy valve so a ticky ticky from the valves is good, clattering is to loose. I like to hear a little ticky ticky and as the ticky ticky starts to go away you know they are closeing and not to far in the future you will need to adjust them again.
Sam
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Post by lancecharming on Jan 26, 2013 14:35:39 GMT -5
Both of my scooters idle fine at (really) low rpm and have great power- better than when new. I`ll have to listen for the ticky ticky...
So, is the consensus to wait for a power drop/ idle problems and listen for sounds or just go through all the disassembly crap to check them every so many miles?
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 26, 2013 14:39:18 GMT -5
lance
the biggest probs will be..
dying at stops, hard starting, harder than normal, lol
wont stay idling
ya wanna hear a lil tappity tappity
that tells ya they arent getting tighter
you see, i promise, lol
when it starts dying at stops etc
you will know
i used to do mine every 1000 miles
i havent done 'em now in about 2000
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Post by kyle401 on Jan 26, 2013 16:40:17 GMT -5
I set mine when I got my bike the valves were set wayyyyyy to tight! No Clearence, it wouldent even start out of the crate. Mine tap fairly loud but I think that is better than not tapping.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jan 27, 2013 12:19:48 GMT -5
It doesn't matter how long it takes, honestly. It's not a race. Get it done and do it right.
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 27, 2013 12:26:01 GMT -5
lmsao
to most ppl on this site its all about
one up manship, who's smarter, who will argue with their theory's
instead of facts, who can do what, faster,even if a post contains the correct info, others will try to make that person seem stupid. its a click like high school
take the good, flush the idiots
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Post by millsc on Jan 27, 2013 14:10:41 GMT -5
It doesn't matter how long it takes, honestly. It's not a race. Get it done and do it right. exactly my thoughts, i can do big bore kits in an hour but took me hours to change a broke throttle cable yesterday we all have our strong and weak points  |
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Post by lancecharming on Jan 30, 2013 10:25:11 GMT -5
I get the time thing. First time I adjusted valves (with shims) on a Fiat X1/9 it took about 6 hours.On my other X1/9 it only took less than 2 hours.
I`m just trying to understand the intervals for the scoots. Some people are on here saying to do it every 400 miles and others are saying to just listen for how it sounds or do it every 25,000 miles or something. Isn`t there an official recommended mileage?
I asked about rotating the engine for the second valve adjustment because on a car engine there is an intake and exhaust valve. They aren`t both open at once, so the adjustment has to be made when each is open, by rotating the engine 180 degrees. Are you guys saying that both intake and exhaust valves on a scooter are open at the same time? I don`t understand how BOTH can be set at .004 or whatever with the engine in the same position...
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Post by Pony66 on Feb 4, 2013 12:23:02 GMT -5
I get the time thing. First time I adjusted valves (with shims) on a Fiat X1/9 it took about 6 hours.On my other X1/9 it only took less than 2 hours. I`m just trying to understand the intervals for the scoots. Some people are on here saying to do it every 400 miles and others are saying to just listen for how it sounds or do it every 25,000 miles or something. Isn`t there an official recommended mileage? I asked about rotating the engine for the second valve adjustment because on a car engine there is an intake and exhaust valve. They aren`t both open at once, so the adjustment has to be made when each is open, by rotating the engine 180 degrees. Are you guys saying that both intake and exhaust valves on a scooter are open at the same time? I don`t understand how BOTH can be set at .004 or whatever with the engine in the same position... No, you adjust the valves when they are both closed at TDC. |
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