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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2013 13:09:04 GMT -5
The new engine that I have installed on my scooter, the rear is made for drum brakes and mine is disc and the wheel won't even fit, has anyone ran into this problem and what can be done about it?
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Post by Scooter Elements on Jan 21, 2013 13:25:22 GMT -5
really nothing can be done. You need a Drum rim and you will also need a new handle for the brake cable since yours uses a master cylinder you will need to get rid of that. and the other parts that go at the drum brakes and the cable. but Disc brake is alot better.
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 21, 2013 13:39:30 GMT -5
Witch side is the brake rotor, the swing arm side or. The engine side?
Jphn
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2013 13:46:34 GMT -5
Witch side is the brake rotor, the swing arm side or. The engine side? Jphn Right side, by the exhaust. |
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Post by yosemite on Jan 21, 2013 14:38:22 GMT -5
Scooter Elements is correct, you are going to have to spend a lot more money to convert it to DRUM. In addition to the rear wheel I hope you got lucky and the stator wires will match up to your harness that is another big mistake people make when ordering a new motor. Many have to use the OLD stator from the old motor IF it is working because the stator on the motors most dealers sell are for a DC system and not AC.
Sam
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Post by wangchicken on Jan 21, 2013 15:03:58 GMT -5
whats the difference i swapped a motor that was drum to disc?i had no issue. to convert to drum you need a brake lever, a brake cable and wheel. What is it with yours that it wont fit.
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Post by Scooter Elements on Jan 21, 2013 15:12:21 GMT -5
whats the difference i swapped a motor that was drum to disc?i had no issue. to convert to drum you need a brake lever, a brake cable and wheel. What is it with yours that it wont fit. His will not fit because his scooter is Disc but the motor is drum. he is asking what he can do about that. He would need to covert to drum which is true all you need is a RIM, Drum, Cable, Handle, and the drum parts that the cable connects to at the rim behind the CVT. |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2013 15:48:08 GMT -5
That really sucks, after mention of the stator issues I went ahead and checked the charging system and it doesn't seem to be charging either... AC / DC...
Then I already modified the rear by shaving off the pieces that stuck out, which is also where the drum pads attach to, when I realized the flange diameter was different... So no drum brake conversion, which wasn't what I wanted anyway.
The part that really sucks thou, is that's the GY6 engine EVERYONE sells!
So buyer beware folks, there ought to be a WHEEL that fits this engine AND has three outer bolt holes for the dang disc!
$400 down the drain
--- Later Edit ---
Now that I took another look at it, with a new attitude (specifically, an attitude of I don't got nothing left to lose) I was able to start shaving down in earnest and I am thinking, bit more shaving... I think now I will have to take the inner "hub" of the wheel down some, shave that down until it fits, good old angle grinder's making short work of it.
Then, remove the outer engine plastic cover.
Swap stators.
And it might just work.
I'll let you folks know how it turns out
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Post by h3nry on Jan 21, 2013 16:45:11 GMT -5
Usually the engines state if it is for drum breaks or not.
Might be a good idea to call the place you are ordering from to make sure its what you need....
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2013 16:47:29 GMT -5
Usually the engines state if it is for drum breaks or not. Might be a good idea to call the place you are ordering from to make sure its what you need....or, you know, read No, some do, the rest you have to go by the pictures and they do include data but I'll make it easy, here's the engine I ordered: www.t-motorsports.com/150cc-gy6-long-case-fully-automatic-cvt-4-stroke-engine/I checked everything they gave, the model, the specs and measurements, I checked all that. But nobody said a word about the rear rim not fitting due to inner flange diameter. Bunch of crap if you ask me. |
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 21, 2013 16:54:53 GMT -5
the drum brake cam is removalable (what spreads the brake shoes) and the fixed pin is also removable . The big question is will your gear box seal hit the wheel hub .
post a pic of your rear wheel the side that goes to the engine , and a pice of the final drive shaft side of the new motor .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 21, 2013 16:59:15 GMT -5
Well tell t-motorsports to send me some $$$ to talk you through this .
Dou you own a pair of snapring pliers ? the drum actuator comes out easy . the pin on the bottom threads/unscrews too .
John
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2013 17:12:59 GMT -5
Yeah I already called those motorsports guys, seems they're not very interested. Anyway here are the pictures. seems like it's going to take 1 post per pic? Oh well, 1st pic is the wheel, you can see the inner flange where the blue has rubbed down to shiny aluminum (from 3 to 6 o'clock)... That's just from me rotating it by hand. What I am thinking of doing next is grinding down that flange to the next mark, taking out 1/4 to 1/2 inch of material ALL around, carefully and as evenly as possible so as not to throw it out of balance, get rid of the stuff that's rubbing, granted that will leave an open space for debris to get in but... Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2013 17:17:44 GMT -5
This picture shows the OLD engine's outer flange diameter. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2013 17:20:45 GMT -5
And the NEW engine's flange diameter which is a LOT larger. That's what the problem is, the flange diameters between wheel and engine aren't matching, I could probably just order a wheel if I knew which kind, obviously it needs three holes to mount the disc... Also you can see the grinder marks, yes I'm aware the spacers are on the axle I put them there to keep from losing them, amd I've already taken out the brake actuator. Tires are 12" x 3.5 but son of a gun if I run into that flange diameter problem again. Attachments:
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 21, 2013 17:31:38 GMT -5
put the wheel on it see if it rubs . your old engine could be used for drum brakes . the stationary post for the drum brake might be able to stay . When I con verted from drum to disk , my wheel went rite on no grinding. Sometines the gears turning in the final drive might fool you to think the wheel is rubbing .
John
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Post by yardog on Jan 21, 2013 17:50:18 GMT -5
What is your flange diameter in inches on the old and new engines?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 22, 2013 10:13:31 GMT -5
What is your flange diameter in inches on the old and new engines? I thought about this too and so I did this by placing the ruler against the surface, being that it's not an even surface I am thinking these measurements could be off by up to 1/4" but I took several measurements and this is the closest I could glean: Old 5-1/4" New 6" |
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Post by yardog on Jan 23, 2013 11:45:28 GMT -5
Is this inside or outside diameter? Have you solved your problem? I have jonway with 13" wheel and rear disc brake attaches to swing arm on opposite side of the engine. I may have to replace my engine.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2013 11:55:43 GMT -5
Is this inside or outside diameter? Have you solved your problem? I have jonway with 13" wheel and rear disc brake attaches to swing arm on opposite side of the engine. I may have to replace my engine. omg idk I want to say outside but it's one or the other and there's only so many different kinds but the REAL problem I see is that EVERY gy6 for sale on the Web is drum brake, yes, every single last one... Now, one would THINK that simply replacing a rim should take care of things but again we're faced with that flange dilemma, if the rim's flange is different from the engine it won't fit. Then there's the stator, son of a gun, it's a DC engine and my scooter's AC. Things they FORGOT to mention in the specifications... Granted, SOME sites do mention that it's drum brake but then again they're ALL drum brake. Really they're most likely ALL the same engine, meaning they're ALL DC as well. I did find out once we DO find the correct engine its cost sky rockets, we're talking $600 to $800 just for the engine, maybe $500 but plan on paying $75 for the shipping so $600. I haven't worked on it any more, I'm not real excited right now but I may get with it later today, I don't know, a part of me wants to just throw the whole thing in the garbage too. Be the last time I bought Chinese, I can tell you that. |
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Post by wangchicken on Jan 23, 2013 13:12:50 GMT -5
how about trying this , Swap out the swing arm side of your case from old engine to the new one ,It would cost you a gasket kit and a few hours depending on skills its the most afforable solution to your dilemma .
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Post by scootnwinn on Jan 23, 2013 13:44:30 GMT -5
That's not a bad idea chicken dude. Labor is cheap if you've got nothing better to do and you don't have to wait for it to be delivered...
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Post by dragzilla on Jan 23, 2013 23:12:01 GMT -5
He's trying to put a 12" wheel on a case half thats made for a 13" wheel. Change the case half with the old one.
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Post by zoomzoomklunk on Feb 13, 2013 16:12:42 GMT -5
how about trying this , Swap out the swing arm side of your case from old engine to the new one ,It would cost you a gasket kit and a few hours depending on skills its the most afforable solution to your dilemma . wangchicken....I find myself in the same situation with needing to swap my swing arm side of my old case to the new one. are there any links to show the breakdown process and torque specs? Any help would be much appreciated from anyone in the know. And for what it's worth, I bought my new engine on ebay and did'nt even consider the wheel size difference. Thanks. |
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Post by wangchicken on Feb 15, 2013 8:20:32 GMT -5
many service manual on this site, you doo need a starter clutch nut tool,feeler gauge for valve readjustment
thats the only special tools besides that its just 8mm bolts and a few 17mm nuts
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