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Post by saferider1 on Jan 13, 2013 17:05:21 GMT -5
New Taotao ATM150-A 150cc Evo. As suggested by many, I went to change out the tire valve stems using the c-clamp method on a 130/60-13 wheel. Front tire is deflated, but can't get the c-clamp to break the bead and push the tire bead further than a few mm. The photo shows how far I can get by clamping the hell out of the tire. Any suggestions? Attachments:
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Post by Fox on Jan 13, 2013 17:35:34 GMT -5
Turn the clamp over and if you have to, move the clamp around the wheel on both sides of the stem a few inches at a time so you get more bead to pop off. To help pop the bead back on bounce the wheel on the ground. Tying a rope around the circumference works sometimes.
You may just have to take it to a tire shop cause those low profile tires are hella stiff.
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Post by saferider1 on Jan 13, 2013 18:26:09 GMT -5
Thanks Fox. gave it all I got using your suggestions, but no go. It'll have to go to the tire shop. Thanks for your help! Will I need to take off the wheels, or can I drive the bike to the shop and have them replace the valve stems with the wheels on the bike?
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Post by Fox on Jan 13, 2013 22:37:36 GMT -5
If it were me, I'd pull off the wheels.
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Post by h3nry on Jan 13, 2013 23:29:23 GMT -5
You should be able yo get the bead off all around then use the clamp and a rag to clamp the tire to the rim and hold it out of the way ( your tires bead seems to be holding on too well to get it out of the way)
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Post by skuttadawg on Jan 13, 2013 23:47:52 GMT -5
Get a tire bead spoon and use a hammer to tap it around to get the bead over the rim . Some soapy water from a spray bottle helps . Be very careful with aluminum wheels as they are easily damaged .
My POS TaoTao the tire came off the bead 3 times with it inflated instead of being slack . One time I only made it 200 feet and dang it . The tire was not perfcetly round and wheel a lil warped so I thought that may be why it did that . I have read where some valve stems leak . I really like the 90 degree bent style as its easier to test the PSI and inflate if needed . Luckily both my Echarm and Magnum have both held up .
If you do not have the wheel balanced you may want to look into using the balance beads since you have it apart . I would also grease the pads ( not the friction part ) since drums squeak and it drives me nutty . I hated it and after my TaoTao ATM I only would buy a scooter with F&R disc brakes
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Post by saferider1 on Jan 14, 2013 2:25:11 GMT -5
Hey guys. Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. So far I haven't damaged the aluminum rim, and I think I'll stop while I'm ahead and head for the tire shop. Although I couldn't find any videos for removing the rear wheel from a Taotao ATM150-A, I got the gist of it from several other scooter videos. Tomorrow's high is 18 F, with an overnight low tonight of -1 F, so I'll be waiting until that balmy 50 degree weather on Wednesday to take the rear wheel off. I'll post a how-to video on the rear wheel once I figure it out. Thanks again everyone for all of the tips. Oh, to answer Bong's question. No dry rotting yet as it's brand new, but just taking precautions based on information that's out there. It looks like a crappy valve stem, and for a few bucks, replacing them is great insurance against potential disaster with a flat. Thanks skuttadawg for the tips. I'll be sure to grease the pads while I've got the rear wheel off! Attachments:
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Post by rockynv on Jan 14, 2013 5:12:24 GMT -5
You should replace the tire now that you put a c-clamp on the sidewall without using blocks to distribute the force. The cord in the sidewall has been stressed where you have clamped it which could lead to a zippered blowout. This is expecially true since you clamped the h*** out of it.
The only time you can safely use a c-clamp on a tire without blocking it is when you are going to discard the tire.
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