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Post by prodigit on Jan 12, 2013 6:25:54 GMT -5
SP 150cc Scooter Type 74 : $680 SP 150cc Scooter Type 23: $700 RK 150cc Scooter Type 75 : $750 All of them kind of look alike. Why the $50-75 difference between them? If you had to choose between these type of bikes (imagine all had the same color), which one would you have chosen?
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Post by Blueboy5000 on Jan 12, 2013 7:22:07 GMT -5
Well I chose #2 and my sister chose the Jonway version of #3. The difference is that the quality of of the Jonway is far better than the SP/Roketa/Baccio components wise. The engines/cvts are identical. The Jonway has decent tires and bright headlights, as well as much better assembled wiring. The SP/Roketa/Baccio has terrible tires, a cheap Zhuphing belt and awful lights.
Both I used identical upgrade parts after they hit 1100 chinameters, and both are equally fast and problem free now. Fully upgraded ( 11g weights, red springs in clucth, 115 mainjet, open air filter, catch can, Kevlar belt, free flow exhuast) they are good for 62mph on the gps on the flats.
Since you have to scrap so much stock garbage on both of them and upgrade to better parts, and it winds up being the exact same parts you replace on both bikes, I'd say it doesn't matter which one you get, and I cannot recommend one over the other.
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Post by amac1680 on Jan 12, 2013 7:34:33 GMT -5
They are in essence the same scoot.
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Post by EPAhater on Jan 12, 2013 7:45:24 GMT -5
All 3 scooters are assembled in different places, all use Jonway parts, don't believe it go look at the manufacturer stamp on the headlight lens for a start. I have a JCL 250A made with Jonway parts, a Roketa 250B with Jonway parts, both identical down to the last bolt. Got a Bali 150 and again Jonway parts, a 50cc from Roketa, yep Jonway to the letter, and 3 more scooters, assembled in different plants and by different makers everyone single one is built with parts made by Jonway. Again if you own these scooters go find the stamp on them and you'll find Jonway from front to back. Another plant might not have assembled one as well but they are built with the same materials. Difference in price all a matter of the middle men and how many in between and how many a company buys at once, the more the cheaper. Companies like Roketa don't build anything, they just sell and put their name on them, once bought the Chinese could care less what you call them. BTW my Roketas are just as dependable and reliable as the two actual Jonway scooters I own, all a matter if you know the word PDI have over 12k on one alone and still runs like a top. Jonway is connected to other Chinese companies and sells parts to them for scooter assembly, ShangHai Jmstar Motorcycle being one and Shanghai Shenke Motorcycle another and this company assembles a lot of Chinese vehicles, not just scooters: www.jonway.com/about.aspI have seen tons of Jmstar made scooters including Roketa and some Shenke scooters , again made with Jonway parts. The quality of their parts is the same. Roketa is just a disguised Jonway. Tires, batteries and bulbs are got from a lot of different people, some use better than others but the other things pure Jonway.
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Post by teddy554 on Jan 12, 2013 8:20:45 GMT -5
number 3
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 12, 2013 8:24:41 GMT -5
MAKE SURE IT HAS THE METAL TAG AND YOUR GUARANTEED A WELL MADE SCOOT
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Post by EPAhater on Jan 12, 2013 8:30:11 GMT -5
MAKE SURE IT HAS THE METAL TAG AND YOUR GUARANTEED A WELL MADE SCOOT Another Jonway scooter assembled by Shenke.
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Post by snugglebunny on Jan 12, 2013 8:37:04 GMT -5
sorta
the shanghai schenke company is a subsidies of jonway, but most schenkes are better made then most chinese scoots pound for pound that is.
all Shanghai's are imported by jonway but NOT all jonways are Schenkes
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2013 10:18:38 GMT -5
Careful who you order it from and watch for the surcharges, my experience has been with those great prices they like to hit you up with a $270 shipping fee and then there's always some other $60 or $70 "fee" that can't be circumvented bringing the grand total a lot closer to a thousand dollars or more. Here's a great example: Today's Special: $599.00 <- This is the eye catcher, but then... And I will tell you where I found this $600 scoot but wait! 6 months parts warranty $69 Total Price: $668.00 + $239.00 Shipped! Ohhh almost forgot the shipping, now the GT = $900'ish Not so amazing anymore and sorry but that turns me off, it reeks of a type of bait and switch. And I found it at this place called scooter depot but as I always do, check for REVIEWS. As there exist on the web more than a few bad reviews about a couple of these places... For example: www.google.com/search?&q=scooterdepot+reviewsSo I think the saying applies, look before you leap.
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Post by kluge on Jan 12, 2013 16:07:34 GMT -5
They're all the same. Slightly different plastic body panels. Price difference is called "marketing." I chose the #3 style because I preferred how it looked, but didn't face the choice you pose. How much extra would I have paid for #3 over #2 if given the choice? Hard to say. $20? But at those prices, I'd pick #1.
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Post by EPAhater on Jan 12, 2013 19:48:44 GMT -5
sorta the shanghai schenke company is a subsidies of jonway, but most schenkes are better made then most chinese scoots pound for pound that is. all Shanghai's are imported by jonway but NOT all jonways are Schenkes All Shenkes are made with Jonway parts not just imported thus all Shenkes are Jonways. I'm betting if you look on any plastic and body part on you're scooter you'll find the word Jonway, start with the headlight lens.
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Post by prodigit on Jan 13, 2013 3:35:11 GMT -5
There's just so many choices, if you find a similar priced scooter, 150cc, please add them to the list!
One last question, I've read that most of them have a gas mileage of around 60-75MPG, which I think is not very good. How could you improve gas mileage?
1- Heavier weight rollers (at the expense of slightly slower acceleration) 2- Higher gearing (provided that it would be easy and possible to increase gear ratio 3- Improve air flow (most exhausts and intakes are restricted, so I'd presume putting a bigger airfilter in, and perhaps drill out the exhaust, to make it run a bit leaner.
Any other ideas besides reducing the jet size?
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Post by gmblnmstr on Jan 13, 2013 6:15:33 GMT -5
Just slightly different "trim" packages.
As you go from #1 to #2... Upgraded shell, lighting, paint/decals, seat, trunk, front fender and tires.
As you go from #2 to #3... Upgraded shell, lighting, paint, seat, trunk, front fender and tires.
Not big differences much like when you buy a car..you might have an ex, se, lx...but still basically the same car.
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Post by gmblnmstr on Jan 13, 2013 6:45:58 GMT -5
My friend that owns a shop in Shanghai says that for fuel efficiency: 17g and 18g are his most popular roller upgrade, A mikuni bs24 carb (suppose to me be more efficient then the keihin), taller gearing, And a gear called the Australian Million mile gear (that is the direct translation) I stole a picture to show you...but some one described it much like a gear on the rear wheel of a bicycle (I am not sure). With punching out the exhaust...you will loose some torque and in my opinion be on the throttle more...For fuel conservation I would leave the intake and exhaust alone. Attachments:
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Post by EPAhater on Jan 13, 2013 7:38:41 GMT -5
17 to 18G rollers will kill the MPG if riding on lots of terrains especially in a hilly environment. The engines max HP to RPM ratio is at around 7200 to 7500 RPM. Lug the engine at even 6800 RPM MPG will suffer. If you're riding on extremely flat ground, don't mind the bad take off response with heavier rollers and will ride the scooter correctly then MPG can improve. Very few have all those combinations.
As always MPG also depends on rider: weight altitude humidity temperature proper gearing good PM
Even the amount of air in the tires has an effect. low tires will cost you MPG not to also say a clean filter and quality of the gas you buy.
Best MPG improvement for the stock GY-6 is upgrading to sliders at the 13 to 14g level. Better take off and better top end while keeping the engine in it's best HP to RPM curve.
Same thing with higher gearing, lug the engine MPG will go out the door. A old saying that is always true, "no replacement for displacement" .
Proper jetting Good PM Proper tire pressure Proper slider size Riding properly
can and will push the stock GY-6 to in the 80's easily, not guessing have two GY-6 150's and they will do that when all the factors above are met. I can and have took the exact same scooters and dropped them in the 50's on MPG by just wanting to run them wide open instead of riding at a controlled pace, still not bad.
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Post by Blueboy5000 on Jan 13, 2013 9:47:10 GMT -5
If you want fuel economy, then your speed and power are gonna be drastically reduced.
Optimum performance will wield 60 to 65 mpgs on a 157.
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Post by scootnwinn on Jan 13, 2013 10:17:13 GMT -5
1is red and the middle one is a limited edition, was this a trick question?
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Post by qwertydude on Jan 13, 2013 13:37:19 GMT -5
I like the first one. From my experience the single headlight designs tend to light the road brighter because they use larger headlight reflectors. And red bikes automatically are 10% faster.
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Post by scootnwinn on Jan 13, 2013 15:56:12 GMT -5
And red bikes automatically are 10% faster. Red with stripes are 15% faster
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Post by prodigit on Jan 13, 2013 20:36:58 GMT -5
well, originally I'd be ok with a 100-125cc, as a 4stroke 50cc is just a little too slow in acceleration between 25-40MPH.
Seeing that I'm quite happy with my 50cc, which is not 100% tuned, just wanting a tad more power, I suspect even with a 150cc with heavy rollers I'd still be able to accelerate fast enough for traffic.
The funny thing is, that I've modified my Honda Shadow 750, it's a 750cc dual cylinder engine, and has an average MPG of 60 (gotten 64 at one time, not even riding the most economical). The 50cc has 100MPG (If I wanted, I could get 115MPG out of it). If a 150 is able to get 80, it'd be right in between my 750 and my 50cc.
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Post by prodigit on Jan 13, 2013 20:37:16 GMT -5
well, originally I'd be ok with a 100-125cc, as a 4stroke 50cc is just a little too slow in acceleration between 25-40MPH.
Seeing that I'm quite happy with my 50cc, which is not 100% tuned, just wanting a tad more power, I suspect even with a 150cc with heavy rollers I'd still be able to accelerate fast enough for traffic.
The funny thing is, that I've modified my Honda Shadow 750, it's a 750cc dual cyliner engine, and has an average MPG of 60 (gotten 64 at one time, not even riding the most economical). The 50cc has 100MPG (If I wanted, I could get 115MPG out of it). If a 150 is able to get 80, it'd be right in between my 750 and my 50cc.
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Post by qwertydude on Jan 13, 2013 20:44:32 GMT -5
What's really hilarious is the average 150cc GY6 only gets 60-70 MPG. I used to have a 750 Shadow Spirit with sprockets. With a -5 rear sprocket, exhaust mod and Cobra jet kit I managed a healthy 65 mpg efficiency with 70 mpg possible if I'm careful.
It's just the way things are with them 150cc's. Some that are well tuned from the factory like the Buddy 150 get upwards of 80-85 mpg. But really a lot of people report getting better MPG's with a 250cc scooter.
But the real champ that I do know with MPG's is definitely my Sym Wolf. With a +1 front sprocket I average 95 mpg! Yes that's on par with a 50cc scooter, and this is with a lot of high speed freeway running too. If I stay sidestreets under 50 mph I can even manage 100 mpg. This isn't an anomoly either I've verified the odometer as only 1.5% optimistic so it's pretty spot on and I fill up on the centerstand at the same gas station and those figures are averaged over several tank.
The manual transmission and +1 gear really do let the efficiency shine. So much so that I got rid of my scooters since the Sym Wolf is perhaps the best when it comes to lowest operation cost as maintenance is much lower on it and tires last a lot longer not to mention excellent mpg.
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Post by kluge on Jan 13, 2013 21:11:09 GMT -5
I'm consistently getting 80 MPG on my stock 150 GY6, and I'm 6'1", 225, and drive a lot of hills and high speed roads. I'm not sure where you get 60-70 MPG as average gas mileage for 150's.
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Post by prodigit on Jan 13, 2013 21:21:23 GMT -5
The 60-75MPG is an average of many scooters. It's nice to look into this, as gas mileage may be badly tuned scooters. If you have fuel injection, I see no reason not to get 90MPG out of a 150, but with a carb, unless it's tuned well, or you're riding economically (which I usually try to do), getting above 75-80MPG is pretty hard.
Also, a CVT eats away a lot of those MPG numbers; so a manual would probably do better here.
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Post by qwertydude on Jan 14, 2013 0:18:17 GMT -5
I'm consistently getting 80 MPG on my stock 150 GY6, and I'm 6'1", 225, and drive a lot of hills and high speed roads. I'm not sure where you get 60-70 MPG as average gas mileage for 150's. You should plot a 20 mile course on google maps and ride it to verify your odometer's accuracy. I've gone through a few Chinese scooters and often the odometers are just as optimistic as the speedometers telling you you've gone 10% farther then you have in real life. My Buddy 125 was like this, my Baja SC50 was like this but measuring in KM, my BMS V9 Evo. The only ones with truly accurate odometers were my Japanese bikes and my Sym Wolf.
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Post by millsc on Jan 14, 2013 0:28:34 GMT -5
they are the same pretty much get the cheapest one
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Post by Blueboy5000 on Jan 14, 2013 6:35:49 GMT -5
Use a GPS to determine your ACTUAL MILEAGE as the stock speedo is 99% wholly inaccurate. If I use my stock speedometer, it says I get 101 mpg, but the GARMIN NUVI says 65 on a good day. The stock speedo also says I have a top speed of 79mph, which the GARMIN NUVI says is 62mph.
Seeings how a GPS is accurate, I highly doubt ANY stock gy6 150 can get anywhere near 80mpg, unless it is fuel injected. One of our club riders has a Fuelly Honda and it gets close to 85mpg, but that's a fuelly Honda, not a gy6 with a round slide carb. Also, flat slide carbs DO NOT increase mpg, but rather DECREASE it. And that's a fact.
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Post by qwertydude on Jan 15, 2013 21:38:24 GMT -5
If you're getting a 101 mpg to 65 mpg inaccuracy your odometer is most likely reading kilometers. 65/101 equals about .644, the kilometer to mile conversion is .621.
So calculating you odometer error from your provided numbers and the km to mile conversion, you have about a 3.7% optimistic odometer.
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