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Post by newscooterer on Dec 19, 2012 13:47:45 GMT -5
I have a roketa 250cc just hit 2,000 miles in it. I bought it with 1,400 it it's running great so far. I've changed the oil, working on changing gear oil, and also the valves. Other then that what maintenance should I be doing to make sure I get the longest life out of my scoot. I ride about 20 miles a day. Sometimes more if I make a trip to my girlfriends with is about 15 miles ( city ) here in Tucson. The roads blow, and are VERY bumpy. My front fender has broke...... is it really worth buying a new one? Also any major bolts I should check to make sure they aren't coming loose? Any other engine maintence tips? Or any maintence tips at all that you guys do on your scoots? Brakes etc.... I've been really impressed with this scooter! But like I said just trying to get out of it all I can. Any tips, or suggestions will be appreciated greatly!
Thanks,
Ian
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Post by 50cc on Dec 19, 2012 14:21:19 GMT -5
Engine oil every 1000 to 1500 kilometers, gear oil every 2000 to 2500 kilometers, valves and carb cleaning every 3 months, bleed brakes every 2 years, spark plug every 2500 kilometers, check lights frequently, always carry a spare belt and tools to change it. I also change from #75 to #80 main jet in winter and wash my air filter every month (i have an aftermarket filter that is exposed to some dirt and water). Soon will change the battery since it's on this scoot for 3 years now.
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Post by prodigit on Dec 19, 2012 17:43:29 GMT -5
On a 250, I did engine oil every 1k miles, gear oil every 3k miles. Valves every 3k miles, and carb cleaning ... I don't know.. Never did it.. Fuel injected. I presume if you ride it daily, then once every 3 months putting some seafoam in the tank won't harm. I'd never take the carb apart though... Spark plug, check every 2000 Miles. Usually you need to regap/change them every 4k miles. Belt change 4k miles for the chinese belt, 8k miles for a good bando belt.
Air and fuel filter checkup/cleaning, and if necessary replacement every 4k miles,
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Post by snugglebunny on Dec 19, 2012 18:01:54 GMT -5
those gentlemen^^^ mentioned good things i will only add
add seafoam (stabil) a lil more often than the 1 guy said i add 1 oz every other tank full. { .9 of a gal tank on mine} Ive never cleaned my carb i have over 8000 miles
checking bolts etc. i dotn know how hard it is to get your plastics off but what i do once a month is take it all off, and check EVERY BOLT and NUT now if i find one that was working loose, i put a dab of paint-any color-on it and always re-check those.
make sure you check motor mounts , shocks, wheel bolts, brake calipers
NOW doing that will kill a whole day off, but hey its only your life going down the road on 2 wheels at 60 MPH---right??
i always try to keep the engine clean as a whistle my cvt is chrome and i have chrome painted may other parts Not only does it make it look good, but i can see any leaks as soon as they start
Keep up on the good work your doing on changing the oil and gear oil and air filter,
Since you say you live on really bumpy roads, maybe a better rear shock, so it can absorb the bumps, rather than the whole scoot.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 20, 2012 1:27:00 GMT -5
Also check you tire pressures using the values on the DOT plate mounted somtimes under the seat and at various other locations on the bike. The max inflation listed on the tire is many times way over what is required and can cause your bike to rattle apart on rough roads even causing a fender to break.
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Post by skuttadawg on Dec 20, 2012 1:51:15 GMT -5
Clean or replace the air filter as needed . I use a capfull of Seafoam every other gas fillup to keep the fuel system clean . NGK iridiums last and perform much better than standard and I have 13,000 miles on mine since I replaced at the dealership before I ever rode it . All 4Ts will need the valves adjusted at the PDI or around 2,000 miles or when it gets hard or unable to start as well as if it stalls just before stopping like mine did at 2,200 miles and have not been touched since
ALL nuts , bolts and screws will vibrate loose as some come with LIGHT thread locker . NEVER use the permanent type as I sheared off the bolt head and had to use an EZEOut to reverse drill it out and retap the threads on a car where someone used the permanent . Body panels only a light snug of a wrench or screw driver is needed . Make sure all steering nuts are tight as when my scooter fell off of the kickstand the steering got offset and wobbly and was skeery riding it home . I use a hammer style impact driver ( not powered by air or electricity ) which looks like a fat screwdriver that you can give it a tap and get it tight and also helps removing tight nuts . I first learned about those when I was a teenager and rebuild the clutch in my Honda CR125 . A wrench only seemed to round the nuts so I stopped and called the shop where I buy parts and he told me about the hammer impacts . He was right a modest wack and its loose enough to use a wrench and only around 10 dollars
Belts , rollers and the glides will wear along with the clutch over time . For a belt get Bando brand as they are better and made in Japan not China . Slider weights last longer than roller weights which can get flat spots and limit or prevent them from rolling and get stuck instead of traveling all the way in the variator
You can get a small metric socket set for 10 dollars anywhere and I have a great multitool from Lowes that has sockets , allen keys , lock blade knife and more for 20 . I suggest everyone have a flashlight too as it will be a life saver on roadside repairs . I also have pliers , electric tape , spare bulbs in a protective box , fuses ( my Echarm uses 3 where most only one ) , a rag ( not oil or gas soaked ) , paper towels in a zip lock bag and a change purse loaded with emergency quarters
Keep the headlight lens clean and streak free will help you be able to see good and I apply regular car wax on them so rain slides off instead of bead up . Wax works better than RainX as it fills in tiny scratches and pits on the surface
Check the tire pressure at least once a month or when the temp changes like when it gets cold some may leak out a lil bit of air
FixAFlat may help as I have only used in cars with great results but never on two wheels . There is CO2 cartridges in flat tire kits but I have not used them and maybe someone can comment if they have
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Post by spandi on Dec 20, 2012 8:17:07 GMT -5
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Post by happyoldscoot on Dec 21, 2012 8:27:38 GMT -5
If you will be taking off and replacing body panels, an inexpensive set of J.I.S. screwdrivers (Amazon has them) will save tearing up Phillips-style screw-heads, blisters, and unhappy mutterings. The other alternative is to replace the screw with hex-heads.
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Post by vader1701 on Jan 6, 2013 20:05:54 GMT -5
I do whatever I can, I either find the tools that I need or make them up, I do know when to draw the line in the sand too. I have a lift and just enjoy doing stuff on the bike when I can. I have posted some videos on YouTube and also have a blog take a look around when you get a chance YouTube channel: LordDarthVader1701 Blog: vader1701.blogspot.com/I have a seat back rest project that I am going to gear up doing.
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Post by rockynv on Jan 6, 2013 23:12:27 GMT -5
Add check and clean the cooling inlet to the CVT cover. Many go through belts, rollers and clutches sometime even the entire variator due to something as simple as a clogged filter screen on the CVT cooling inlet causing everthing inside to run way too hot. If the CVT case is gets uncomfortably hot to the touch you need to check for restricted airflow to and from the CVT case.
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