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Post by yukon2tank on Dec 18, 2012 12:43:12 GMT -5
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Post by tortoise on Dec 18, 2012 13:24:51 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Dec 19, 2012 5:27:48 GMT -5
Remove the cooling shroud, apply a few psi air pressure to the vent hose on the valve cover, spray down with soapy water and the soap will bubble where there is a leak. On that era scooter is may be a crack in the head in the timing chain area.
When muffler welds break it is many times due to vibration from letting a belt go too far without replacing it. The clutch and clutch shaft bearing can also fail along with the muffler from the vibration which you may feel as a buzz in the floorboards.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2012 21:03:24 GMT -5
Just like cars these scooters need frequent periodic maintenance so please locate and fix that oil leak asap, you really shouldn't even be riding it until it is fixed.
Among some things that can happen when riding a scooter with an active oil leak:
1. Rear brake pad contamination resulting in severely reduced braking performance.
2. Grit and dirt everywhere.
3. Possible engine damage.
4. Environmental damage.
You're best off at this stage order up an entire gasket set because that's the cheapest way to go, your scooter is most likely leaking oil from one of four six locations:
1. The oil drain plug, from the evidence presented this is unlikely in your case.
2. The dipstick, also unlikely in this case.
3. The PCV outlet / hose at the top of the valve cover gasket, quite possible.
4. That little overflow hose coming out of the air filter needs to be drained every 100 miles otherwise it back flows, do it if it has not been done.
5. The valve cover gasket, quite possible.
6. The cylinder head gasket, also quite possible especially considering the exhaust issue.
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Post by jazzman on Dec 19, 2012 21:14:18 GMT -5
That is 6 locations and may I add the tensioner, around the plate behind the stator the Oil Crank seal on the inside of the plate behind the stator. But from the looks of it, it may just be the Rubber Gasket on the valve cover.
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Post by yukon2tank on Jan 31, 2013 14:23:26 GMT -5
ok so i ordered the complete engine gasket kit and went to tackle the tear-down today. well after just removing the seat and gas tank cover i noticed that it seemed to be leaking primarily from the front lower engine (since it hadn't been ridden in a while). so i pull the valve cover off and there it is! a completely flat worn out gasket and obvious oil leakage across the machined surface. So now without having to remove any fairings etc and only about 45 min. of work my oil leak is fixed!
Forum info and You tube are just as good as all data or chiltons online just slower!
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Post by rapidjim on Jan 31, 2013 14:37:01 GMT -5
ok so i ordered the complete engine gasket kit and went to tackle the tear-down today. well after just removing the seat and gas tank cover i noticed that it seemed to be leaking primarily from the front lower engine (since it hadn't been ridden in a while). so i pull the valve cover off and there it is! a completely flat worn out gasket and obvious oil leakage across the machined surface. So now without having to remove any fairings etc and only about 45 min. of work my oil leak is fixed! Forum info and You tube are just as good as all data or chiltons online just slower! Good job! Glad it was that easy. Jim |
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Post by yosemite on Jan 31, 2013 18:49:41 GMT -5
When welds break by the flange it is usualy due to putting pressure mounting the muffler. There should not be any pressure to get the mounts to line up otherwise the pressure and vibration will cause welds and or Exhaust studs to pop out from the head.
Sam
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Post by yukon2tank on Feb 1, 2013 12:52:48 GMT -5
I believe the previous owner had it apart but couldn't determine where the extra bolts and screws where. I had one bolt holding rear brake caliper on and one bolt holding muffler on. I've since inspected and replaced any missing or broken bolts. no problem with exhaust mounts lining up.
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