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Post by texware on Dec 1, 2012 21:43:52 GMT -5
I bought the scoot with 1347 miles. Previous owner said unit was not charging battery though it would runa day or two if he charged it externally .After I got it home, I had the battery checked and it was a dead unit. So, now, it has a new battery that tests fine. BUT nothing happens when I turn on the key. No lights, no horn, no blinkers, no starter, nothing. Where do I start, please
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Post by scootnwinn on Dec 1, 2012 22:09:18 GMT -5
Is there a main fuse?
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Post by bhinch on Dec 1, 2012 22:17:33 GMT -5
Check all of your fuses and change them to american fuses....there is a fuse for the positive battery cable and it should be a 20 amp fuse.....your scoot may have a fuse box under the seat.... check and see....
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Post by texware on Dec 1, 2012 22:20:13 GMT -5
The glass in line fuse and the 4 plastic blade fuses are all good. I had already checked those.
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Post by scootnwinn on Dec 1, 2012 22:22:34 GMT -5
Did you check the ground? How did you check the fuses? With a meter or by sight?
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Post by jazzman on Dec 1, 2012 22:24:11 GMT -5
Just had another one just like yours actually the same scoot and same year. Guess what it was the GLASS IN LINE FUSE on the red wire. They may look good but are bad. If you did NOT use a volt meter to check EACH SIDE of the Fuse for current I suggest you change it they are very cheap.
If that fuse is bad YOU HAVE NOTHING.
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Post by scootnwinn on Dec 1, 2012 22:37:38 GMT -5
Yep that's what I was thinking. I really can't be much else but the switch
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Post by texware on Dec 1, 2012 22:52:27 GMT -5
I only checked the plastic fuses by sight, but the glass fuse I checked with a meter both by continuity and by voltage (against the battery ground to both sides of the fuse, just to be all belt & put suspenders about it).
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Post by texware on Dec 1, 2012 23:21:29 GMT -5
Sheesh, I did not think to check the system with the key on: I went out to check the blade fuses from the bottom of the fuse box to make sure they were all getting juice. When I turned the key on they were getting about 2/3 of a volt. I have my battery on the charger now bring it back up to full and I will try it again.
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Post by jazzman on Dec 1, 2012 23:23:59 GMT -5
HAHAHA, that will do it, no juice in the battery. The wire with the glass tube you checked feeds the iginition switch and then when you turn on the key it feeds the fuse box. So if you still get nothing after the battery is charged check the BLACK WIRE going to the fuse box that should carry 12v to feed the fuses.
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Post by texware on Dec 1, 2012 23:33:38 GMT -5
Let me make sure I have this straight, please: There is a heavy gage wire that goes to the solenoid (or what I assume is the solenoid >>> a round metal item with 2 heavy gage wires (red) and a medium gage black one) that then goes on the the starter motor. The smaller gage wire (with the glass fuse) goes to the ignition switch then comes back to the black fuse box under the seat which holds the 4 plastic blade fuses? And the master power feed for the black fuse box is color coded black?
If I have this correct, and I do not get clean power to the blade fuses, then may I deduce that the problem is the ignition switch or the wires between the glass fuse and the switch or the switch and the fuse box? I already checked and I am getting 12+ volts to the solenoid (I checked it right after I originally installed the new battery)
Thanks, D
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Post by scootnwinn on Dec 1, 2012 23:44:32 GMT -5
Sounds like you got it start at the batter and follow the power
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Post by jazzman on Dec 2, 2012 0:08:30 GMT -5
Let me make sure I have this straight, please: There is a heavy gage wire that goes to the solenoid (or what I assume is the solenoid >>> a round metal item with 2 heavy gage wires (red) and a medium gage black one) that then goes on the the starter motor. The smaller gage wire (with the glass fuse) goes to the ignition switch then comes back to the black fuse box under the seat which holds the 4 plastic blade fuses? And the master power feed for the black fuse box is color coded black? If I have this correct, and I do not get clean power to the blade fuses, then may I deduce that the problem is the ignition switch or the wires between the glass fuse and the switch or the switch and the fuse box? I already checked and I am getting 12+ volts to the solenoid (I checked it right after I originally installed the new battery) Thanks, D You got it my friend, If you turn on the key and check the black wire going into the Fuse box from the igintion switch and you have voltage there then your getting juice to the ignition switch and to the fuse box. If you do not get 12v from the black wire from the ignition switch then one of two things the switch is bad or there is a break between the GLASS TUBE WIRE going to the ignition key. The solenoid is fed directly from the battery so you could jump the TWO TERMINALS on the SOLENOID and the scoot may start if the CDI is NOT grounded.
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Post by texware on Dec 2, 2012 20:35:10 GMT -5
As it turned out... I got suspicious and carried the battery back to O'Reilly's. Turned out it had an internal short. So, I did the 20 minutes for the acid to soack in, and the hour for it sit and stabilize... now I am waiting on it to finish charging.
Maybe it will run when I get it all electrified??
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Post by scootnwinn on Dec 2, 2012 20:40:58 GMT -5
If you have time run a charger on it till it is full and you might just add a couple months to the battery's life
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Post by texware on Dec 2, 2012 21:00:55 GMT -5
Thanks, I will certainly do that!
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Post by texware on Dec 3, 2012 18:27:51 GMT -5
Ok, I seem to have messed up. I got the battery situation fixed. I even got the scoot to start and run for most of a minute... but I was told because it had old gas in it I probably fouled the plug. MEANWHILE... my 5/8 automotive plug socket seems to be the wrong size (too small). What size should I expect it to be, can anyone help me, please??
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