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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 7, 2012 20:36:53 GMT -5
Hello everyone, I recently had a 2011 bash "ruckus" look-alike, until someone cut me off and I t-boned them. Totaling my scooter. Anyways, I ended up buying a new one tonight =) I paid $800 for it. It's a baccio DLX50 with 1200 miles on the odometer. I have receipts to prove it has a fresh 70cc bore kit installed, with literally 0 miles on it. A technigas performance exhaust, and a yss performance shock installed. The bike is in awesome shape. Run's good, turns over right away and has a nice idle. Anyways this is my first two stroke bike, and it has a fresh rebuild kit on it. So, basically I'm unsure as to how to drive it without blowing it up. I'd rather wait to drive it and get a professionals opinion before i do. The pic is crappy and I can take better ones if need be. Any advice would be awesome, thanks alot guys. Attachments:
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Post by teddy554 on Nov 7, 2012 23:21:46 GMT -5
well most will say take it easy the first 250 and try not to go full throttle and let it break in and the ring set, but everyone of mine i have rode full throttle after the first hour of driving with no issues. but nice scooter got a great deal. Is the carb tuned and jetted for the pipe and bbk that the bigger risk then anything
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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 8, 2012 17:04:04 GMT -5
I'm unsure about the carb being jetted for the pipe. And what is a bbk? I'm pretty new to the scooter scene, unsure on terminology.
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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 8, 2012 17:40:55 GMT -5
So i was out riding the scooter today. I drove it less than a mile going no faster than 35 and while going around a corner, the scooter just started to die. And when I pulled on the throttle it just bogged down even more and then it shut off. A few minutes later, thinking maybe it overheated I started it back up and the same problem. When I pulled the throttle it bogged down. so I pulled off the road again. and I turned the key to shut it off and it stayed on, I tried flipping the kill switch and it still didn't turn off. And a few seconds later it died. And now it will not start.
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Post by teddy554 on Nov 8, 2012 20:14:25 GMT -5
i think you carb has not been up jetted and you are way lean(not enough fuel getting to the motor causing it to run hot) causing your motor to be super hot but your rings are probably shot along with your cylinder and need to pull it apart to find out or do a compression check i think what you experience is a soft seize piston and ring get hot and swell larger then the cylinder and the piston cant move freely
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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 8, 2012 21:45:03 GMT -5
i have the reciepts to show the motor was literally rebuilt with a piston kit with new head piston rings and gaskets, jetted, new carb, fuel pump, and blower cover. Do you think its possible to ruin all the work in such a short drive? I'm just reading off a reciept that was done about 50 miles ago on the odometer. The guy claims he has no idea, i don't want he refund, and I told if something was wrong to just tell me so I know what to fix and he just says its basically a brand new motor. I dont have a whole lot of money to fix it either. is there a slight possiblilty that the kill switch might be faulty causing the scooter to not start? It cranks over, but won't come to life.
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Post by martyd on Nov 8, 2012 22:39:01 GMT -5
You have to check for three things these motors need to run check for spark take the plug out but have it connected and ground it to either the motor or frame and crank the motor and look for the spark. If you have spark next check for fuel there is a vacum line that runs off the carb to a petcock valve and a fuel line comes off this valve to the carb take the fuel line loose at the fuel filter crank it over and see if gas streams out of the line if not pull the vacum line off the carb and suck on the end of it and gas should stream out if not your petcock valve is bad also check all fuels lines and vacum lines for cracks or leaks
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Post by teddy554 on Nov 9, 2012 7:42:44 GMT -5
you can toast a piston and cylinder in less then five minutes if not properly jetted correctly, and yes all that work can be ruin and such a short trip. you can do all those test martyd suggested to rule those thing out and then you can check your piston and cylinder i about guarantee that there shot what you describe earlier was a soft seize and a pretty serous one your here is a toast piston and from running lean the ring is stuck in the ring grove and isn't free floating like it should which will not seal the bore properly and keep the piston and cylinder walls from making contact but i hope it is something else to save you the trouble and money what i would do is go rent a compression kit from autozone and test your compression it the easy thing to do and rule out a bad piston and cylinder i an going to give you some links to thing that might help you  |
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Post by teddy554 on Nov 9, 2012 7:50:49 GMT -5
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Post by ventostu on Nov 11, 2012 5:05:10 GMT -5
I did the same thin with my kymco. Paid 1100 buck and blew it up after 10 miles. On a fresh rebuild need to take it real ez.
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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 11, 2012 17:28:32 GMT -5
The spark plug was literally melted. and the casing around the cylinder head is melting...
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Post by teddy554 on Nov 11, 2012 17:49:23 GMT -5
It must of never been upjetted for the bbk and pipe and was super lean to get that hot that is crazy, just for the heck of it you should see what size jet was in the carb for the thread so u need to rebuild the top end did the li.ks help any
Sent from my SPH-D710BST using proboards
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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 11, 2012 18:43:23 GMT -5
The rubber boot casing i mean. When I went to advance to get a new plug they couldnt even find this plug in the sytem or oem replacements. I replaced it with an ngk. And the scooter cranked right up. Any ideas? is it running hot maybe?
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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 11, 2012 18:58:29 GMT -5
If i tear the carb down, do i need fresh gaskets and so forth to put it back together. The paperwork says its a new carb and it is jetted. and it looks like a fresh carb. I have a mechanic to help me. What size should the jet be for my setup?
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Post by naseqp on Nov 11, 2012 19:04:56 GMT -5
Contact the shop that did the original work. Who determined the carb to install on the increased displacement?
Or did the owner pick out install those parts himself?
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Post by teddy554 on Nov 11, 2012 19:35:20 GMT -5
85-88 with air box 90-95 open air filter
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Post by teddy554 on Nov 11, 2012 19:39:13 GMT -5
what ngk plug did you get i use the ngk b7hsa or the b8hsa the lower the number the hotter the plug
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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 12, 2012 0:32:37 GMT -5
All i have is a receipt which shows $90 for a new carb, and $10 for jet. Like I said they couldnt find my plug so I had to match it up by size, a Bz7hs-10
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Post by anthonysinacola on Nov 12, 2012 20:46:47 GMT -5
I'm not afraid to spend money on this scooter. What if I just bought a larger/performance carb? What size mm should I go with my setup? and can someone direct me where to find it?
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Post by lovemy2strokes on Dec 4, 2012 15:06:56 GMT -5
You have a yamaha jog/ vento zip clone which is a minarelli engine base. I would look at what those guys are using on their bbk for carb choice and jetting. Ive seen a lot of them going with 19mm carbs tho.
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Post by lovemy2strokes on Dec 4, 2012 15:10:39 GMT -5
Just based off of you saying the plug was melted I would definitely say youre running lean and if it kept running after you turned it off its called diesling or pre ignition. Unless theres a wiring issue.
More than likely they bought a performance carb with the kit and set up, it sounds like they spent an awful lot of money on it to just sell it after word. You may be getting into some problems that another mechanic couldnt figure out.
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