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Post by ridecheap on Oct 27, 2012 18:09:45 GMT -5
My battery tested with multimeter First TEST:
Just sitting there: 12.2 Volts -
Turning the Key: 11.6 Volts -
Turning the engine on and reeving it: 11.8 to 11.9 Volts
Second Test Battery Drained more
Sitting there 11.7
Reving engine and getting no jump up in battery volts.
Im starting to think its the regulator and battery. The volts are not jumping too high when I am giving it gas. It should be in the 13 teens battery bad or not?
I gave it some good gas a second time and the battery stayed the same at the 11.6 no jumps when reving it.
I have the regulator in my view and was testing the red line green line and yellow line with a multimeter.
It sparked and I blew a fuse. I blew the orange 02 fuse. The fuse was by the regulator. I will have to get a new fuse tomorrow.
There is the red, green, and yellow line to the regulator and the 3 yellow lines to the regulator.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 27, 2012 19:13:35 GMT -5
Technically, if you replace the battery with a cap, you'd see if the stator works or not, but no reason to buy an expensive cap just for that purpose.
If revving the bike gives a lower than 13V, it's either the stator, or the voltage regulator.
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Post by justbuggin on Oct 27, 2012 20:24:50 GMT -5
i agree with Prodigit you have a problem you need to do some testing of your system and you need to take the battery to be load tested what are the colors of wires coming out of the stator you should have around 45 to 60 volts ac coming out the stator unplug from the harness if so then i would replace the R/R if not then the stator
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 27, 2012 20:53:36 GMT -5
how many wires and what colors on the regulator . Unplug the stator start the scooter set you volt meter to acv read from yellow to yellow in all combinations . post your results .
John
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 12:02:59 GMT -5
Here is my regulator tested: Any ideas if its working its strange to get the .1 in the yellow plug.  |
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 28, 2012 12:30:01 GMT -5
to check stator it needs to be isolated from the regulator . unplug the 3 yellow wire connector and measure the acv from yellow to yellow from the stator . wee need to know what the stator is putting out in acv .
John
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 13:26:10 GMT -5
I tested the top plug in the picture with the three yellow wires. I tested it with the key turned and it came out as 3.40 on the multimeter set at A...- over it at 20m. I could not start the scooter with this top plug un plugged.
Theres as you see those three yellow wires going to the regulator and the black and red wires.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 14:01:43 GMT -5
Ok I put the charger on the battery and was able to start it with the regulator top plug in the picture with the yellow wires disconnected.
I got from the plug to the stator top left 7.0 A-... the middle large area went up to 14 then down to 1.5 stable. The top right came out flat line 0.
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 28, 2012 15:08:26 GMT -5
ok lets try again , I need to know the 3 yellow wires comming from the stator what the voltage is with the meter set to read AC volts, first at idle then reved up . read from yellow to yellow . you must be unpluged from the regulator .
John
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 15:46:03 GMT -5
I dont know anything about multimeters. I see youtube videos of easy miltimeters you just set to but this has alot of options the one I have. Please tell me what to set it too on my multi meter for AC.  |
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 28, 2012 15:59:57 GMT -5
you got a spot of glare on the top og the pic I can see it . I belive it would clock wise to the 200 in white . Please post another pic to be sure .
John
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 18:05:07 GMT -5
Thanks John
I figured out what AC is on the multimeter.
I tested the the regulator plug to the stator.
There is three prongs in the plug. The top right and left prongs are putting out 0. The bottom prong is putting out 15 then reving the engine up it goes 20 on the multimeter in AC. It seems the stator is working fine.
I know what DC is now on the multimeter. All the volts tested in the picture I posted above is in DC.
I have the 257cc engine.
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Post by justbuggin on Oct 28, 2012 18:27:37 GMT -5
no you are not understanding the voltage from the stator is AC you need to disconnect the plug with three yellow wires and have the motor running you need to put one lead of the meter to one of the yellow wires from the stator and the other lead to another wire from the stator take a reading then move the second lead to the last wire and take a reading the you will do the same again with the first lead be careful as the voltage should be in the 30 to 50 volt range and care hurt you and you need to set your meter to 200 in the range that has V and wavy line beside it that is the AC voltage section of your meter
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 28, 2012 18:36:20 GMT -5
no you are not understanding the voltage from the stator is AC you need to disconnect the plug with three yellow wires and have the motor running you need to put one lead of the meter to one of the yellow wires from the stator and the other lead to another wire from the stator take a reading then move the second lead to the last wire and take a reading the you will do the same again with the first lead be careful as the voltage should be in the 30 to 50 volt range and care hurt you and you need to set your meter to 200 in the range that has V and wavy line beside it that is the AC voltage section of your meter hmmm I tested above by grounding the black multimeter to the bike frame and tested each prong with the red and using AC on the multimeter. I know I tested it AC above with the bike running and the plug undone with the three yellow wires. Your saying I use the black multimeter wire and put it to one of the plug prongs and then take the red meter and put it on another prong and go Vise Versa? |
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 28, 2012 19:42:08 GMT -5
yes yellow to yellow unpluged . any combonation should read within 10% .
John
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Post by justbuggin on Oct 28, 2012 21:29:06 GMT -5
yes as you have a three phase system if you had a single phase system you would do the test the other way
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Post by prodigit on Oct 28, 2012 21:55:02 GMT -5
The multimeter won't work that way. The AC of a multimeter only gives the right value at either 50 or 60Hz. Any other frequency will be way off!
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 28, 2012 22:10:07 GMT -5
The multimeter won't work that way. The AC of a multimeter only gives the right value at either 50 or 60Hz. Any other frequency will be way off! I don't agree it will read root means squared of ac signal. John |
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 29, 2012 11:02:22 GMT -5
I am getting a new battery as of today much stronger based on CCA and AH. I will test the stator with the old battery and new battery and post the results today later in the day.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 29, 2012 11:22:55 GMT -5
So here is the old battery results:
Posting Battery:
Installed it a few months ago.
O Reilly Auto Parts Super Start® Power Sports - Power Sports Battery
Part Number: GTX9BS
10 Amp Hour Rate (Ah): 8Ah
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 120 CCA
Voltage (V): 12 Volt
The Stator Results for the old battery:
Inside the three wire prong to the stator I tested while running:
Bottom wire with Right wire: .2 AC
Bottom Wire with left wire: 20.-40. AC
left wire with right wire: .1 AC
Results: This does not look good you said it should test the same with all wires any combination. I am thinking it is the stator?
New Battery results coming later today.
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 29, 2012 12:17:56 GMT -5
It seems the bottom wire is the only one putting out a good 20 AC when revving engine. Here is a diagram of a stator working in Flash: www.wisc-online.com/objects/ViewObject.aspx?ID=IAU11808So if 20AC is being put out and then when I test the regulator hooked up its giving me 5.4 DC volts out could it be the regulator? One wire is giving me .1 DC volts out refer to the picture above I posted. |
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 29, 2012 14:38:10 GMT -5
New battery inside that is fully charged. I put it in and revved the engine its not charging up staying at 11.9 DC Volts. It must be the stator or regulator. I am thinking its the stator?? Any ideas.
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Post by tvnacman on Oct 29, 2012 15:34:45 GMT -5
Well being that your not able to test the stator output. Change both.
Jhn
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Post by naseqp on Oct 29, 2012 17:43:22 GMT -5
Youre reading battery voltage when you check the regulator rectifier red wires not reg output.
As tv said the YELLOW wires are the output of the stator, its also called an alternator (it produces alternating current or AC).
Since to produce an output charge of approx 13+ volts DC....a stator has to put out at least 28 volts or more. The reg/rectifier rectifies (changes a/c to d/c) and regulates (so the out put is steady). Whatever a/c voltage the alternator produces is cut in half when its rectified to DC.
There should be no d/c in the yellow wires. Check for a/c by touching your tester to two yellows at the same time not ground.
The ground is for dc.
You can check them hooked up but stay on the output of the yellows, forget the red while running.
Alternators are more reliabale,have fewer moving parts and smaller than using a "generator producing DC. Think of older cars that had generators.
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Post by justbuggin on Oct 29, 2012 18:09:34 GMT -5
i say the stator is bad and the meter will read thr right voltage no matter what the hrz are
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Post by ridecheap on Oct 30, 2012 11:34:33 GMT -5
Getting nowhere near 60 AC
These are real readings with a shot stator..
Postive the stator is TOAST. I put these results down from the unplugged on the stator side of the connector in AC.
Bottom wire with Right wire: .2 AC
Bottom Wire with left wire: 20.-40. AC
left wire with right wire: .1 AC
The only wire putting out any AC when unplugged is the bottom wire. The only charge it takes is the bottom to the left wire and its only 20 AC.
My stator is shot big time
With the plug pluged into the regulator and testing the three wires in DC its only putting out 5.4 DC volts on two of the three wires... I think the regulator is working fine because it is converting the AC to DC.
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Post by jlee on Oct 30, 2012 14:30:46 GMT -5
Getting nowhere near 60 AC These are real readings with a shot stator.. Postive the stator is TOAST. I put these results down from the unplugged on the stator side of the connector in AC. Bottom wire with Right wire: .2 AC Bottom Wire with left wire: 20.-40. AC left wire with right wire: .1 AC The only wire putting out any AC when unplugged is the bottom wire. The only charge it takes is the bottom to the left wire and its only 20 AC. My stator is shot big time With the plug pluged into the regulator and testing the three wires in DC its only putting out 5.4 DC volts on two of the three wires... I think the regulator is working fine because it is converting the AC to DC. It sounds to me like the RIGHT YELLOW WIRE is either broken between the stator and the connector, or pinched to ground somewhere. Before you go to the trouble of replacing the stator, trace the yellow wires all the way back to the stator. (You can prove this by measuring the resistance between all the yellow wires. It is unlikely that you lost two of the three coils in the stator at the same time.) |
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