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Post by bk0388 on Sept 13, 2012 23:03:24 GMT -5
i have a new ROAD WARRIOR... its been running ok but changing gears has been very chalenging,..
sometimes it wil switch smooth...
but if i try to downshift while stopped it is almost impossible.
are you not supposed to change gears while not moving?? any other bike ive had it was never a problem..
even while rding and switching from 1st to 2nd i will have to try 2 or 3 times.... (sometimes. other times its fine)
are these thngs normal or am i doing somethin wrong???
any advice on changing gears? i dont want to press to hard and bend the metal or screw the engine up...
thanx guys always a big help!
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Post by bk0388 on Sept 13, 2012 23:17:17 GMT -5
btw heres a pic.... Attachments:
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Post by stiv625 on Sept 13, 2012 23:59:35 GMT -5
Don't know if this is your issue but sounds like it could be. On my Ninja 500 the clutch was kinda stiff with the motor off or at low idle. Sometimes to get it into 1st from neutral I had to roll the bike a foot or two with the clutch pulled to "loosen" it. It also liked to surge forward a foot or two if I started it in gear b/c of the same problem.
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Post by rockynv on Sept 14, 2012 4:46:12 GMT -5
You do sometime have to allow the transmission dogs time to wear in. You say it is new so is that from a drop ship or a local dealer? If a local dealer swing by before the warranty is up and have them check it out. If drop shipped did you change all the engine and gear lubes when you got it? It could also be that the clutch is not releasing all the way and in need of adjustment.
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Post by olmanrivah on Sept 14, 2012 8:12:10 GMT -5
BK, you look great on that bike. Road Warrior should have you as a poster . . . .
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Post by olmanrivah on Sept 14, 2012 8:49:28 GMT -5
BK, I read some of your other posts and I see you are new to stick shifts. Do you know anyone that has a cycle that can try your Warrior out. If you don't, find one. Or, take it to any cycle dealer and if they are decent, they will help you.
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Post by 12string on Sept 14, 2012 8:57:26 GMT -5
Had a similar problem with my son in-law's Virago clone. Once we switch to synthetic oil the shifting became much smoother.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 15, 2012 4:14:16 GMT -5
I've got an automatic transmission, with cvt, so switching gears is probably the last of my problems, however I did ride a Honda Rebel 250 before, which had somewhat the same issue as you mentioned. In your case it might be best to switch to first gear before standing still, and keep the clutch pressed in.
On my rebel I also had issues with getting into first gear sometimes, but usually rocking the bike a few inches forward or backward would allow the gear to click.
The bigger issue I had was trying to get it into neutral, where the gear was so sensitive, that it easily clicked from first into second, or second into first, skipping the neutral.
It takes patience, and lots of tries to get it right!
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Post by bk0388 on Sept 15, 2012 13:34:22 GMT -5
thanx guys....
yea def new to manual shifting, gonna try rockin the bike back and forth a little right now and see if it helps...
is switching to a synthetic oil ok? like i said bikes brand new, 20 miles on it.... ive read conflicting reports on what kinda oil to use.
thanx again guys...
btw my friend did try the bike out and had same trouble, said gears def stcky. thing is he rides a nice harley and never has probs whether still or movng.. guess thats the difference with an expensive bike
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Post by prodigit on Sept 16, 2012 0:35:43 GMT -5
The cog wheels need to wear out a bit, for easier gear shifting. Just give it a few years, and most of your problems will be reduced.
I understand that on a trike it's harder to move the bike, however, if you're in Neutral, you can push it back some, to get it shifting into 1st gear.
Gear oil is not going to make shifting go easier, however it could extend transmission life.
If the bike is new, then drive another 80 miles with it. At that time, replace gear and engine oil.
Since you have a trike, the transmission probably needs a bit thicker oil than a regular bike.
Most chinese bikes need the same type of oil, however there is somewhat play in what you want for your bike.
If you want to extend motor and gears lifetime, it's better to select a thicker oil. It usually goes together with a small decrease in performance and MPG. But if you want peak performance, and top MPG, at the cost of engine life, you can select thinner oil. Same goes for transmission.
Usually the thinnest engine oil recommended will be 10W30, 5W20 if you're living in colder places like Alberta Canada or Alaska or something.
The lower the number, the thinner the oil. The hotter the temperature, the thinner the oil will get in the motor.
The thinner the oil, the better the gliding at little force, but also the easier the metallic/engine wear, especially at high forces (fast acceleration, or towing).
For the gearbox you need thicker oil, because the oil moves more fluidly in the gearbox, than in an engine, and also has to handle more power. 80W90 is good oil, 90W120 would work too. I personally would not put too heavy oil in it, unless you're doing a lot of unusual towing. 80W90 is good enough for careful drivers who don't accelerate like a maniac.
Especially on smaller scoots (with sub 300cc engines) the choice of gear oil matters little, as most transmission oil in the store will do.
On bigger bikes with 1200cc's or more, the torque on those gears may require for heavier oils.
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Post by olmanrivah on Sept 16, 2012 7:39:22 GMT -5
OK Gal, you did good getting another person to try it. Seems a bike problem. Change the transmission oil more often than normal, inspect it each time for metal filings and pieces. As the gears wear in it should get better, but, you need to get those worn pieces out of the oil by changing it often.
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Post by dsrt4 on Sept 18, 2012 7:26:57 GMT -5
Have you changed the factory oil out of the bike yet? The engine and transmission in this bike should share oil.
I would NOT put synthetic in the bike at all until it is broken in.
If its the factory oil get it out and put the recommended conventional weight oil in.
Another thing to check is the clutch adjustment on the cable or case. It very well may not be disengaging the Clutch when you pull the lever in. If there is a adjustment at the lever only run it out a few turns and then try it.
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Post by bk0388 on Sept 20, 2012 7:52:41 GMT -5
Thanx again guys, Clutch works i think, engine always seems like nuetral wen i pull clutch. Prob is if i dont get the bike in first wen comin to a stop... Forget it. Stalls, jerks. probably a stupid question but do all bikes stall if you try to start goin from 2nd gear?? So if i stop b4 gettin to first its really hard to get to 1st. While im moving its usually ok. Hope i figure it out b4 i break bike but im sue i will..  |
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Post by prodigit on Sept 21, 2012 0:02:22 GMT -5
Most 250cc motorcycles (and up) can start from second gear, provided if you add a little acceleration, and carefully enable the clutch.
It does wear out the clutch a bit faster though, but it should not be impossible.
I know it works on 150cc bikes, but is more difficult, because the clutch/motor is very sensitive.
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Post by olmanrivah on Sept 21, 2012 8:56:53 GMT -5
Practice down shifting when coming to a stop. Going from 4th to 1st can be troublesome. As you come to a stop down shift from 4th to 3rd to 2nd, then 1st.
Of course, sometimes you lack the time or skill to do this. The more you practice, the better you'll get.
Taking off in 2nd isn't the best option. That's why it's got a 1st.
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