|
|
Post by savy09 on Aug 18, 2012 9:38:54 GMT -5
So this thursday 8am I set out for E. Hampton, got as far east as wading river about 25 min. 40+-50 mph and again engine just quits. wait about 5 minutes and engine starts, go about 5 miles further and the same thing. I turned back thru wading river and after doing some hilly areas 20-25 mins. quits again. Starts after a couple of mins. and I get home. Try to start and nothing, no crank, nothing. I put a charge on the battery 20mins. and starts right up. Something is draining the battery I guess i'm running and the battery isn't charging, tho meter is showing a charge. Is it the kill switch? the starter switch? a bad battery? I did notice the engine seal burned partly away by the bottom of exhaust muffler. Think that is causing an overheat problem? Or is it all electrical. need help guys. Read more: scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=threewheelers&action=display&thread=52373#ixzz23uOnEjWm |
|
|
|
Post by wiredgeorge on Aug 19, 2012 17:29:16 GMT -5
You are getting intermittent voltage. Why? I suggest you check connections. First battery terminals; take out screws and put a dab of dielectric grease on each after cleaning off any corrosion and snug the battery terminal screws down. Now, the battery lead goes to the reg/rec. You will have to take off the upper front to check this connection. That is about the only two "universal" power out locations.... other places you will not be able to run the bike but it will crank or have lights. Also, the fuse next to your battery... may be fine except a bad connection there. check the connection and be sure the fuse is making good contact.
|
|
|
|
Post by ustacould on Aug 19, 2012 20:24:53 GMT -5
Search in this forum for the symptoms of valves that are not properly adjusted or "why does my engine keep cutting out when it warms up but starts again after it cools down". Then read the proccedures for adjusting the intake and exhaust valves.
ed
|
|
|
|
Post by savy09 on Aug 30, 2012 19:50:00 GMT -5
OK, I just cleaned all of the carb parts with carb cleaner, and the fuel filter, also replaced the fuel line with clear to the fuel filter, and carb intake ( black particles in fuel filter) from the black rubber chinese fuel line. Corrosion from ethonal in our gas?
Keeping very little gas in my tank ( in case I have to clean the tank). Put in the carb vacuum lines and vacuum lines into manifold intake. I try starting, it cranks but no start and no fuel reaching the fuel filter.
Did I put any of the vacuum lines in wrong, and the fuel pump not getting vacuum to work properly? Any help guys.
|
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Aug 30, 2012 22:16:03 GMT -5
Vacuum must be applied to the petcock in order to get fuel flow. This vacuum comes from the intake manifold, either directly or hooked up to a tee. If the vacuum line is hooked up and still no flow to the filter while cranking, then either the petcock is plugged or inoperative.
And yes ethonal is black death to rubber lines. Do use ethonal blended fuel unles you have no choice. Luckily for us here in Wi, we can buy non ethonal fuel.
Hope this helps
Jim/Owner
Rapid Repair
|
|
|
|
Post by savy09 on Aug 31, 2012 18:48:36 GMT -5
thanks Jim,
I'm suspecting the petcock also, checked all the vacuum T connections and there all on right, still no flow to the fuel filter. Can I try the petcock from my 50cc gy6 QMB?
|
|
|
|
Post by wile on Aug 31, 2012 19:59:06 GMT -5
Yes, try the petcock from the 50 scoot. They are all the same.
Wile
|
|
|
|
Post by savy09 on Sept 1, 2012 6:21:28 GMT -5
Thanks Wile,
question: your the the elec. guy, do you think the engine just cutting out after running 25-30 mins.
is the auto choke or the voltage reg cause, or is it only a fuel problem? Savy
|
|
|
|
Post by ibtrikin on Sept 1, 2012 9:26:54 GMT -5
Adjust the valves.
|
|
|
|
Post by savy09 on Sept 4, 2012 20:16:23 GMT -5
OK,.this labor day weekend I tried starting, cranks but no start so I changed out my fuel lines from chinese rubber to clear and opened the carb and carb cleaned on all the parts, main jet, got to the idle jet #35 and I can't see thru the end( it's clogged) so I have to replace that, think I should get a #38 too. So I will order that along with a new petcock. My mech. says something is eating up voltage while I'm running, one thing the rear yellow signal bulb stays on all the time. Another is the alarm remote, I think I'll disconnect it also. The only other possible is this dude installed a mp3 and speakers. Thats all electrical, the only other thing could be the kill switch? The valves have to wait till I get to the mech.- Savy
|
|
|
|
Post by wile on Sept 4, 2012 20:47:05 GMT -5
The Alarm/Remote do cause a lot of drain on the battery. Also the MP3 does it have a toggle switch to turn it off and on or does it come on as soon as you turn the key on? If the latter I would suggest IF you want the MP3 is to get a OFF/ON toggle switch for 12v hook it up to the battery and then to the Switch and then to the MP3 and ground. That is the way I have my FM/SD/MP3 player on mine. You have to hit the toggle switch to on to activate the radio otherwise it is dead and NOT sucking up battery juice. Now the Alarm/Remote you have to put a jumper wire on otherwise you scoot will NOT start if you just disconnect it.
As far as the PILOT jet is concerned all you need to do is clean it out get a very tin wire and stick it in there and work it back and forth. You do not need a LARGER PILOT JET the #35 is fine just clean it out.
Now to test the PETCOCK take the FUEL HOSE off the Carb stick the hose in a container and crank the motor over and FUEL SHOULD flow out and stop when you stop cranking.
Now when you say it cuts out after so many minutes will it start up after it cools down? If so like the other dude said ADJUST your valves it could be it is just running to LEAN and getting to hot and starts to bind.
Wile
|
|
|
|
Post by savy09 on Sept 5, 2012 8:51:41 GMT -5
Thanks again Wile,
I'm pulling the the #35 idle jet today and get a new back up. I'll try the hose in in the can, tho it does get fuel into the filter and the carb bowl. Valves I'll have tthe mech. dp when I get it started
|
|
|
|
Post by savy09 on Sept 7, 2012 19:56:51 GMT -5
UPDATE: well bingo ! I just added gas to the almost empty tank and she fired right up! Ran it around the complex for 20 mins. and at idle for over 30 mins. no problems.
Now I'm getting flashback about what happens before the engine stall outs. Seems it happens soon after I get below a 1/4 and red line empty running 20-25 mins. at 40+-50 mph the engine acts like its not getting any gas and everything just shuts off. Could the low on gas reading and the engine heating up cause a malfunction of the petcock or is this a combination electrical- fuel cause ?
I'm off to the mechanic in the am to check the valves and why the yellow signal light stays on all the time..
|
|
|
|
Post by savy09 on Sept 17, 2012 18:48:16 GMT -5
Leaks,Leaks, Leaks!!!
Did I mention leaks... well this is what was causing all the engine performance problems (and vibration). To get these trikes into the USA they have a bunch of hoses feeding from the intake manifold to the carb from the petcock(vacuum leak, and a slow gas leak) to a canister in the rear(loose conection-leak), to a vapor hose device from the gas tank. The hose from the tank was also pinched, and the device had to be blown-out (a bit of gas in it). Test- rode today, and rode fine, good idle. started right up after a few stops. Tommorrow I'll take it for a long ride at 45-50mph and see how it does with the stalling if any.Seems vibration is the cause of most of these problems (loose screws too) on this trike --Savy
|
|
