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Post by scooteritch on Jul 26, 2012 22:29:37 GMT -5
Help! Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove a bolt that won't come loose and now it's even been rounded on the head so nothing can really get a hold of it?
I was in the process of replacing my rear tire. Removed the muffler. No problem there. Next item, the right rear shock. It is attached to my swing arm with a 10mm bolt. Problem. This sucker is so stuck that I have actually twisted off the tip of my 1/4" adapter to the socket wrench. I tried using a standard wrench but all it did was round out the bolt.
So, I have a muffler taken off and I am now pretty much dead in the water. Any suggestion on how to remove this stubborn bolt... by myself?
Thanks everyone.
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Post by inkyben on Jul 26, 2012 23:25:22 GMT -5
since its rounded and pretty much useless at this point I'd squeeze on some channel-locks aka vice grips and give that a whirl, apply some heat to it and it should come right off. Those arent supposed to be that tight but then again chinese are known to get crazy with the locktite.
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Post by OverReved on Jul 26, 2012 23:28:21 GMT -5
I pulled a brake handle off a new assembly today and dang if the nut holding the brake leaver bolt in place as a safety wasn't cross threaded onto the bolt till there were no threads left. If they aren't using Locktite they are cross threading the bolts.
Sorry you broke your tool, a 1/4 inch adapter isn't the best of things to apply torque with when breaking a bolt loose but you use what you have sometimes.
That standard wrench probably did you no favors as it's the wrong size also. If you want that bolt off with less hassle get a 10MM wrench with a closed end and lightly hammer it onto what's left of the bolt head to break it loose. 6 point socket is also highly suggested before you make the head of the bolt/nut completely round and need to mangle it with locking pliers or a reverse threaded bolt extractor that would cut into the head.
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Post by inkyben on Jul 26, 2012 23:33:20 GMT -5
Yeah I agree. After reading this post I'm kinda glad I had my bike drop shipped in a box since the rear shocks I had to attach myself. The threading on these frames strip out way too easily so I just drilled everything out and used my own nuts/bolts.
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 27, 2012 0:18:25 GMT -5
Try using Liquid Wrench or other penetrating oil in case its stuck on . If rounded , can you use Vise Grips in order to lock the jaws onto the nut ? Not insulting , but did you turn it the right direction to remove ? I have seen some tighten up nuts by mistake . Harbor Freight or most auto parts stores you can get a nut splitter . It looks like a wrench , well sorta , and has a wedge inside of it that when you turn the nut on its end it pushed the wedge into the nut in order to break it into . If it has the permanent thread locker on the threads you may have to use a splitter . For wheel nuts along with clutch and variator nuts , an impact wrench can be very handy to break loose and torque nuts since hand tools can round them . I only use 6 point wrenches and sockets as the 12 points are more likely to slip and strip . I have lightly used a small hammer and only tapped on stubborn nuts and not beat it to death and mushroom it . Have someone hold the rear brake lever in so the wheel does not turn or stick something through the wheel to hold it in place just make sure to avoid the valve stem .
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Post by inkyben on Jul 27, 2012 0:22:38 GMT -5
its the right rear shock thats stuck skutta, of all the bolts I'm amazed his is stuck like that lol. I can only imagine the mission its gonna be the remove the wheel nut if they cross threaded his bike like that.
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Post by kixome on Jul 27, 2012 0:32:03 GMT -5
They typically have bolt/nut extractors at autozone in the tools section. You may have to cut the head off and your best bet is to use an air or electric impact wrench.
Next time there is a bolt that you are unsure of tighten it just a very small bit and then loosen. That advise just saved me a headache about 30 minutes ago.
An impact wrench is absolutely worth the money (400 ft lbs or better) and will pay for itself times over.
In the worst situation you may have to split or drill the bolt all the way and re- tap the hole for a slightly bigger bolt. A machine shop would do this for $50 or less typically.
Lot Luck MAN!!!!
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Post by kixome on Jul 27, 2012 0:33:03 GMT -5
97% of the time it is righty tighty lefty loosey.
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Post by OverReved on Jul 27, 2012 0:33:06 GMT -5
I honestly hope it's not cross threaded, or the aluminum isn't galled ( if it does screw intot the aluminum)
People don't need those kind of problems when they may not have access to basic hand tools as is.
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Post by scooteritch on Jul 27, 2012 10:59:42 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. Just to fill in some additional information, I am in the process of replacing my third rear wheel. The first two, I brought it to a shop to replace. So, the nut in question has been removed before...twice. So, I guess we can't blame it on the Chinese. LOL.
This time around, I wanted to replace it on my own. I sort of figured I would have some issues but did not expect the smallest bolt to be the one giving me the problem. I was able to remove the rest of the bolts holding the swing arm. Only thing holding the swing arm now is the center wheel bolt (which I now have to buy a bigger socket - 22mm since 19mm was the largest that I own) and the darn 10mm bolt holding my shock.
I guess I'm going to have to drill it out this time around and start looking to invest in an impact wrench with a decent compressor.
I will keep everyone posted on my result after the weekend. Thanks for the input. As always, very helpful.
Scooteritch
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Post by scooteritch on Jul 27, 2012 11:11:18 GMT -5
since its rounded and pretty much useless at this point I'd squeeze on some channel-locks aka vice grips and give that a whirl, apply some heat to it and it should come right off. Those arent supposed to be that tight but then again chinese are known to get crazy with the locktite. inkyben - when you say "heat" what exactly do you mean? Heat gun? Won't heat expand these things and make it even tighter? Just curious. Thanks. |
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Post by inkyben on Jul 27, 2012 11:24:22 GMT -5
you can use a heat gun or a torch just to heat the bolt up prior to breaking it loose. Heat just makes it more easier to bust it loose. Heat makes it a tad softer and can sometimes melt a seal. In your case its probably cross threaded so heat would be a must. Another route is to drill it out and replace it with a similar sized nut/bolt which is less expensive since you wont have to purchase a thread repair kit. Drill bit,nut,bolt and a couple washers should only run you about $9 depending on the brand of bit you pick out.
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Post by scooteritch on Jul 27, 2012 11:42:19 GMT -5
you can use a heat gun or a torch just to heat the bolt up prior to breaking it loose. Heat just makes it more easier to bust it loose. Heat makes it a tad softer and can sometimes melt a seal. In your case its probably cross threaded so heat would be a must. Another route is to drill it out and replace it with a similar sized nut/bolt which is less expensive since you wont have to purchase a thread repair kit. Drill bit,nut,bolt and a couple washers should only run you about $9 depending on the brand of bit you pick out. Got it. Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense now. : - ) |
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Post by scooteritch on Jul 28, 2012 22:47:56 GMT -5
Success! I went out and bought a new 10mm socket with a larger base hoping it could withstand the torque and with a tougher material, the bolt would not slip inside the socket. I also took Inkyben's advise and heated the bolt up and with the two combination, my stubborn bolt finally came undone. I did not have to destroy it to get it off the swing arm.
The rest of the tire changing process went according to plan and I have a new rear tire (Michelin Boppers) and all is well.
Thank you all for your inputs. Always very helpful. :-)
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Post by skuttadawg on Jul 28, 2012 23:34:22 GMT -5
Heat can help loosen some things . I worked at a plant and we used aerosol spray that got downto below 40 degrees to remove Allen screws
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